In our country, the average outdoor temperature in the cold period of the year does not exceed 8 ° C. Consequently, all residential premises in private and apartment buildings should be heated. In most regions heating season It lasts about 150 days or more. Therefore, the heating system should be reliable and not to create the threats of a possible accident during frosts on the street.

The most important element of heat supply to the room are heating devices, which by type of material are divided into:

  • steel;
  • cast-iron;
  • bimetallic;
  • aluminum.

In addition, sometimes you can meet heating convectors from finned copper pipeswhich are most often used for the hidden installation in the floors.

The device of bimetallic batteries

As practice has shown recent yearsFrom the listed range of radiators, bimetallic models are most efficient and reliable. They have an explicit advantage over other materials, which are to:

  • high corrosion resistance;
  • a wide range of operating temperatures and pressure;
  • the simple possibility of changing the heat transfer of the device by changing the number of selected sections;
  • small inertia when heated and cooled;
  • a small amount of coolant required for filling;
  • low weight, facilitating installation of installation;
  • available for most people cost people.

It should also be noted the simplicity of the installation of bimetallic radiators. Due to the presence of standard fasteners, this process will not entail the destruction of structures and will provide high-quality fixation of the heating equipment.

The design of bimetallic batteries consists of a set of sections. As a collected form, such a package is two horizontal pipes connected by vertical hollow ribs along which the coolant circulates.

To increase the heat transfer of the heating device, the outer surface of the ribs and pipes is increased due to additional planes. The connection of the sections among themselves is performed using hollows of nipple with double-sided thread, subject to the installation of the sealing gasket.


Core.

To protect against corrosion, the inner surface of the sections is covered with a protective layer of aluminum alloy. The outer metal surface is painted using thermal powder application technology polymeric paints. It gives beautiful products appearance And ensures their durability.

Before installing a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you need to purchase a set of 4 special traffic jams. Two of them have an internal thread ½ inches, the third must be without a hole, and another one installed a device for the release of air. When buying a set, you should pay attention to the direction of thread - there must be two right and two left.

Calculation of the required number of sections

The number of sections of the heating devices is determined depending on thermal losses through the enclosing building structures. Accurate calculation can only be performed by a specialist having an appropriate education.

But the enlarged regulatory indicators have long been identified for typical buildings that take the necessary heat consumption at the rate of 1 kW of thermal energy by 10 m 2 rooms. This digit provides a stock of a guaranteed reserve of power of the device by 10-15%.

The heat transfer sections of bimetallic radiators in watts is indicated in the passport on the product that is embedded in each package. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the number of sections necessary for heating the room. square in m 2 Multiply 100 and divided into the heat transfer of one section in W.

The result obtained is rounded to an integer in a large side. Rough check is made from the condition that, on average, one section heats 1.2-1.4 m 2. Execution of calculations allows you to give up the purchase of unnecessary elements and save money.

Choosing a battery package

When installing the heating systems, the heating devices are installed at the first stage, equipped with a shut-off adjusting reinforcement, and after that the pipe laying begins. Any battery can be installed temporarily and removed from the mounts at the moment of cutting the lobbery or performing other works.

Therefore, the connection of bimetallic heating radiators is recommended, without removing the packaging of the plastic film, or wrapped it independently to protect against dust, dirt and possible damage. It is possible to remove the film only when conducting thermal testing of the heating system.

The main requirements for installing sectional batteries are given by the manufacturer in the technical passport of each model. However, there are general mandatory conditions for the installation of bimetallic heating radiators:

  • the middle of the radiator must coincide with the center of the window under which it is installed;
  • the upper plane of the device should be strictly horizontally;
  • all batteries in the room must be at one height;
  • distance OT back wall sections up to the wall - not less than 30 mm and no more than 50 mm;
  • the distance from the floor and the windowsill to the heating device should not be less than 100 mm.

The last condition does not determine the high installation correctly. If you raise the bottom of the radiator to a height of more than 150 mm, then the possibility of insufficient warm-up of the lower space is likely.

Independent installation of sectional heating batteries

Before installing the radiator, the surface of the wall, which will be behind it, must be placed and sharpened. After that, it is recommended to stick a sheet of pholoisol, corresponding to the sizes of the heating device.

During the execution of the finishing finish, the reflective surface can be saved with wallpaper, paint or lay tiles - foil will still reflect heat towards the dwelling.

Required tool and additional materials

For execution mounting work By installing sectional bimetallic heating radiators, it is necessary to prepare:

  • adjustable wrench;
  • perforator or shock drill;
  • podpov tube key (ass);
  • building level;
  • roulette and pencil;
  • radiator key with an end blade of 24 mm;
  • set of end plugs with plug and crane Maevsky;

  • ball valve ½ inches with detachable compound, external and internal thread;
  • crane regulator under the thermal head;
  • radiator gaskets;
  • flax Flax (Pacle);
  • plumbing silicone or packing paste.

Depending on the installation method, fastening elements can be mounted or outdoor. In the first case, they need 4, in the second - 2.

Repacking sections of radiators

Before installing the battery in place, you need to collect the device with the calculated number of sections. The factory equipment includes sets of 10 elements. Therefore, in most cases, it will have to be separated or adding several pieces. This is done using a special radiator key, the length of which is at least 8 sections, and the width of the end blade is 24 mm.

Look at the direction of the thread on one of the end holes of the radiator. Insert the key inside so that the key blade is in the joint zone between the disconnected sections. Turn the key to the opposite direction from the direction of the thread. The moment of separation of elements is usually accompanied by a click.

Adding sections captured to another set is made in reverse order.

Options for connecting the heating device to wiring pipelines

After performing the repacking, plugs, locking valves and a tap for air output are installed on the battery. The way to connect the bimetallic heating radiator in the apartment is determined by the case of a pipe wiring system that can be:

  • saddle;
  • diagonal;
  • one-sided.

In the first case, the shut-off cranes are installed on both sides of the device, into the holes of the lower plugs, and the Maevsky crane is in the upper far along the coolant. The name of the second embodiment determines the installation of reinforcement in the upper and lower tube located on the diagonal of the radiator.

One-way connection scheme is used with single-tube vertical risers of multi-storey houses. In this case, the taps are mounted on top and bottom on one side of the battery.

Installation of a bimetallic radiator on the wall

After the surpass of the sections and the installation of shut-off-regulating reinforcement, you can start the installation of the heating device to the place intended for it. At the same time, the procedure for the action is the following:

  1. measure the distance from the lower edge of the section to the center of the upper nipple compound and add 100-120 millimeters to this value;
  2. apply a mark on the wall at the height of the measurement made;
  3. draw a horizontal line passing through the earlier earlier;
  4. on this line, draw the position of the middle of the window;
  5. make measurements between the nipples of the penulty on the edges of the radiator sections, divide the result into two and set aside by the horizontal line in both sides of the center of the battery;
  6. measure the distance;
  7. from the received marks vertically down to postpone the distance corresponding to the measurement between the centers of the sections of the section (usually 500 or 300 mm);
  8. severate 4 holes for the above marks, insert plastic plugs in them and tighten the mounted mounts on the thread;
  9. hang the radiator on the installed supports.

After that, you need to measure the distance from the battery to the wall and check the level of the horizontal position of the upper plane of the instrument. If necessary, fasteners should be unscrewed or spinning, and horizontal installation Adjust the prevalence up or down the installed supports.

Outdoor installation of heating batteries

This type of radiators installation is used in the absence of durable. carrier wall. This happens when designing window openings to the floor level, showcase fences or surface sheat drywall plates with significant removal (more than 200 mm) from capital walls.

Floor mountings are a metal support structure in the form of the letter "H" with a lower transverse bar for screwing to verification. They are manufactured in two versions:

  • from the steel corner;
  • of the bent profile pipes.

The easiest way to install the heating device without securing on the wall is as follows:

  1. take 2 mounts and just get them from below to the radiator;
  2. put the device together with fastener to its installation;
  3. ask the assistant to hold the battery and make marks on the floor through the holes in the bottom line;
  4. remove the fasteners, depurct the holes and screw the support to the floor on the dowels.

It admits that the floor installation of radiators is less reliable than the attached. But there are options that it will be the only possible solution to ensure the heating of the room. Alternative can serve only the warm floors.

Video on the topic

Independent replacement or even setting from zero heating radiators - the process is not so much complicated as painting. The fact that Plumbing will do in a couple of hours, the amateur may take several days. However, work done by its own hands will stimulate to new accomplishments, save a considerable part of the money and may even delve pleasure, especially if the process is to prepare in advance and provide all subtleties.

When is it better to install batteries?

Installing heating batteries, if it, of course, is not an emergency should be held in the offseason. Centralized heating is disconnected in the spring, within a few days - pairs of weeks of public utilities merge water from the system and it will be soaked in autumn only. In general, time to install radiators - from April to October.

In the house with his heating or an apartment in which the water in the system is always, the battery installation should begin with the emptying of the heating system. In parallel, you can think about what batteries need to buy.

It is important! If you have to install new batteries to the place of old, then you need to choose those that will be identical to the previous one. And for details that are needed when installing, it is also important what the heating system in the house, one-tube or two pipe.

How to choose batteries?

There are four metal from which heating radiators are made:

  1. Pure cast iron.
  2. High quality steel.
  3. Aluminum.
  4. Connection of steel (copper) and aluminum.

To say that some battery will be perfect, wrong.

Batteries from cast iron

This is the heaviest metal with a fairly high heat transfer. Cast iron longer than other metals warms up, but also retains heat longer. Most often set. One section weighs 10 kilograms (in Soviet samples - 12). The cost of one section - 500 - 600 rubles. However, the designer model may have the price and in dollar equivalent, indicated by three, or even four digits.

Minimum thermal power of one cast-iron section 150 W. Operating pressure at the level of 15 atm. For the heating of a room, with an area of \u200b\u200b15 m2, with a standard ceiling height and one double-glazing, you need to buy about 10 cast-iron sections. About how to more correctly carry out calculations by the number of battery sections, the information will be in the subsection below.

The indisputable dignity of the cast iron, as a metal metal, is that it withstands the temperature of the coolant to 150 ° C and unpretentious to the composition of the water that will be in the battery.

The disadvantages of pig-iron batteries are that they are very heavy and they will have to periodically paint.

Detailed review - read on our website.

Aluminum batteries

Manufacturers argue that aluminum radiators - the most common.

  • The main advantage of aluminum is in excellent ability to carry out heat.
  • The second advantage is that it is from aluminum that the most unusual structures of heating batteries are performed.
  • And last. Relatively inexpensive price.

Aluminum radiators have the highest thermal return. Power of one section - 192 W, working pressure - 16 atm. This means that the aluminum battery is very quickly heated.

However, there are still disadvantages. Aluminum battery:

  1. Sensitive to pressure drops with the system. Experts argue that with a sharp increase in pressure, the aluminum radiator can burst.
  2. It needs only in purified, softened water. The increased acidity of the fluid leads to the faster internal corrosion of the metal.

In general, aluminum radiators are best installed where the quality of water is tracked.

Steel batteries

Steel radiators in the form of sections are not performed, it is most often a square or rectangular panel. Working pressure is low - no higher than 8.7 atm. Power in some manufacturers is declared within 20 W. Steel radiators are best used for centralized heating.

Advantages of steel batteries:

  1. With small sizes, they have high heat transfer. This means that a small battery will quickly warm up a large room.
  2. For high-quality heating of the room in the system should not be very heat coolant.

These two advantages are backed by disadvantages.

Attention! Steel radiators quickly rust. They cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity. To prevent abundant corrosion, in the system where there are steel radiators, there must be shut-off for water to drain the water in the offseason.

Bimetallic radiators

Metal connection may be:

  1. Steel and aluminum.
  2. Copper and aluminum.

Steel or copper core (this inner part of the battery) quickly heats up and gives heat aluminum (the battery case is made of it). The compound of two metals significantly increases the thermal characteristics of the radiator. The power of the bimetallic radiator is 185 W. If the inner part is made of copper, then the rated power must be 200 W.

Advantages:

  • Chemical resistance to the coolant.
  • Increased fortress.
  • Lightness weight.
  • High heat transfer.

Disadvantages:

  • High price.

Deciding with the price and quality for which it is willing to pay, it is worth calculating the desired amount of radiators.

Calculation of the number of sections for high-quality heating

Comfortable temperature for human life - 18 ° С (unless, of course, you were not lucky enough to live in Ukraine, where it is due to the lack of gas reduced to 14 ° C). This temperature regime can be set as follows: per 1 m2 area that is heated should have 100 watts of the power of the heating radiator.

The required number of battery sections for a comfortable temperature is calculated according to the following formula:

S * 100 / P, where

S \u003d room area

P \u003d Power of one heating section.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe room is 15 m2, the power of one section of the cast-iron battery is 150 W. It means

15 * 100 / 150 = 10

Total, for heating of one room, you need 10 sections of the cast-iron battery.

Table: An example of the number of radiator sections depending on the room area

It is necessary to apply certain coefficients that take into account:

  1. The height of the ceilings.
  2. Availability of double-glazed windows.
  3. Floors (upper and lower floors have the highest ratio).
  4. The number of windows in the room.
  5. Wheated insulation.
  6. Where is the room. It is important to the corner.

For example, the coefficient (K1), which depends on the quality of the windows:

- K1 \u003d 0.85. This is a triple glass.

- K1 \u003d 1. Such an indicator with a double double glazing.

- K1 \u003d 1.27. Conventional windows with double glazing and, possibly, wooden frames.

The C2 ratio indicator depends on the walls.

K2 \u003d 0.85. New walls with insulation

K2 \u003d 1. Brick walls and insulation.

K2 \u003d 1.27. Panel house With walls without insulation.

Table of the required power radiator heat supply

Payment. To obtain the number of sections, you should divide the data from the table to the power of one section of the selected radiator (kW).

This is an incomplete list of coefficients. But the ratio of digital indicators and, for example, the height of the ceiling or the quality of heating is the same as in the examples above. Each of the coefficients is multiplied by the initial number of radiators sections. Ultimately, it turns out that battery that will really heat the space.

Installation of heating radiator

After the literature is read, the advice of experienced people is obtained, the size of the radiators and the number of sections in them are determined, the order is made and the car with batteries is already on the way, it's time to prepare something, without which they cannot be installed.

Preparatory stage

Almost always the batteries are located under the windows. If access to this part of the room is difficult, you need to free the space as much as possible. Pull the cabinets, remove the TV, remove the curtains.

You need to know! If one has to remove old batteries, then in any case, at least a little, but the flow of water. It will not be clean, like from the spring and the likelihood that water is staining rust flooring, very high. Therefore, carpets and palas are better before replacing batteries. And laminate and parquet cover with a dense film.

When installing the battery, you will need:

  1. Bypass (if the heating system is one-tube).
  2. Adapters.
  3. Couplings.
  4. Nipple.
  5. Corners.
  6. Cranes of Maevsky.

Maevsky's crane - for the release of air from radiators, opens with a special key or screwdriver

It will not be prevented in work and sealant, winding, sealing tape, adjustable keys. The remaining details need to be bought on the basis of which wiring is installed indoors.

Types of heating wiring

Total 4 main types of wiring are distinguished:

Variants of radiators connecting schemes

Now you need to choose the right distance from the wall and window sill for each battery.

Distances up to the wall and window sill

In addition to the fact that all nuts and valves need to be tightened to firmly (without rearning), it is important to further fulfill the following conditions:

  • From the top of the battery to the windowsill should be at least 5, and better 10-15 centimeters.
  • From the bottom of the battery to the floor, the distance at least 10-12 centimeters must be observed.
  • From the radiator to the wall should be at least 5 centimeters.

Compliance with these rules will allow hot air to be better to circulate and go away to freely.

Content

When arranging or reconstruction of the heating system, a replacement or installation of batteries is often required. The installation of heating radiators can be carried out on their own without resorting to the help of specialists, but only strictly observing the requirements of SNiP. When performing work, theoretical knowledge and practical experience will be needed, because even the slightest error may entail problems during the operation of the heating system.

Installation of radiator battery

Necessary theory

Nowadays, two types of heating systems are most widely distributed:

  • one-tube;
  • two-pipe.

A feature of one-tube systems should be called the flow into the house of the coolant from top to bottom. This scheme is used in most typical apartment buildings. The minus system is the impossibility of control temperature regime in dwelling without installation additional equipment. With this method of heating, water in radiators on the upper floors will be essentially warmer than those located below.


Installation of the heating system

With a two-pipe heating, the heated coolant is supplied on one pipe, and the second (reverse) circulates its heat. Such a heating system is applied in cottages and private houses. The advantage of two-pipe systems is the relative constancy of the temperature of the batteries and the ability to regulate the mode of heating.

Radiators installation schemes

Differences in the installation schemes are concluded in the method of connecting them to a private or centralized network.

The most common schemes are the following:

  1. Side connection. Allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer.
    The feed pipe is joined to the nipple located above, and the return is to the bottom. When connected, on the contrary (water supply from below), the system's power decreases.
  2. Connection diagonal. Optimally for large-length batteries, characterized by minimal heat lines.
    At the same time there is a uniform heating of radiators. The connection of the supply pipe is carried out on one side of the upper nozzle, and the discharge - from the opposite side of the pipe located below.
  3. The lower connection ("Leningrad") is used for hidden pipe gasket.

Variants of connection schemes

Installation of heating devices by such a scheme characterized by significant heat lines are used when laying heating pipes in the bottom overlap area.

What is needed for mounting

To secure heating devices will require an acquisition different materials and additional devices. Their kit is almost identical, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, the larger diameter plugs will be required, installation of the air vent instead of the crane of Maevsky.

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries is absolutely the same.

It should be taken into account when choosing a radiator that many manufacturers provide a guarantee for instruments only when installing them with organizations that have a relevant license.

Required tools and materials

When installing radiators, you will surely use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:

  • if you plan to put the device for nothing more than eight sections or length of up to 1.2 m, for a reliable fixing, there are enough two points on top and bottom;
  • each subsequent 5-6 sections or 50 cm battery length require adding another pair of fasteners.

Also to install the batteries must be purchased:

  • linen winding or fum tape;
  • drill with a set of drills;
  • level;
  • dowels;
  • elements for connecting fittings and pipes.

Maevsky crane or automatic air vent

Maevsky's crane is a device that is used at an unemployed upper output. Used to remove the accumulated air. Such a device is necessarily installed on each heating device when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The cross section of the crane of Maevsky is much less than the segment of the collector, therefore the connection is carried out by means of a transition device supplied in the kit.


Crane Maevsky

In addition to the crane, Maevsky on the battery you can also install automatic air vents, manufactured in nickel-plated or brass version. For standard batteries, the devices in a white enamelized case are not available.

Plug

The radiator has four outputs with a side connection. Two of them are for feeding and returning, the third is busy with a crane of Maevsky or an air vent, and the fourth need to close the plug. They are made from various materials suitable for batteries of any type.

Shut-off and regulating fittings

To put and connect the battery correctly, a pair of shut-off or control valves that are installed at the input and output of each battery are also required. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disable the instrument from the network when dismantling. The system will continue to work.

The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, disadvantage - the impossibility of controlling heat transfer.

Ball Valves

The same functions, but with the possibility of regulating the intensity of the coolant flow, are able to perform regulating valve cranes. Their cost is different in the biggest, but, at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular and straight.

Also on the feed pipe behind the ball valve, you can place the thermostat - a small size of the device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery warms well, the thermostators cannot be installed, as they will reduce the already small stream. The heat transfer control can be carried out by turning the knob to the desired division (mechanical devices) or in advance programming the mode of operation of the radiator (electronic thermostators).

Rules and installation procedures

As a rule, the heating device is installed under the window, since the raised heated air cuts off the cold coming from the opening. To eliminate the fogging of the glasses, the radiator width must be selected by 70-75% of the windows width.

Basic installation rules

The following rules for the installation of heating radiators to indentation recommends SNiP:

  • The installation of the heating radiator is carried out precisely in the middle of the window opening. Before installation, the width is divided into two, then the distance to the points of the location of the fasteners are postponed to the right and left side.
  • From the floor level, the radiator must retreat to a height of 8-14 cm. The smaller interval will lead to difficulty cleaning, and the greater will entail the formation of untented air zones.
  • From the windowsill, radiators should be hung at a distance of 10-12 cm. If the device is closer, convection will deteriorate, heat transfer will decrease.
  • The distance from the wall to the radiator should be about 3-5 cm, this is precisely such a gap capacity capable of ensuring the unimpeded heat distribution and normal convection. With too close arrangement from the walls on the rear surface of the batteries, dust will accumulate, which is quite difficult to remove.
Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, it is possible to determine the optimal length of the battery and choose the model corresponding to specific conditions.

Distance from battery to window sill and floor

The above rules are united for all types of radiators. Separate manufacturers install their norms, followed by necessarily. Therefore, before buying, it is necessary to study the requirements for installation, make sure that they are compliance with compliance.

Procedure for performing work

The installation of a heating radiator with their own hands requires a careful attitude towards each stage of work, accounting for any part. To hang out the sections, experts recommend using three mounting points: two upper and one bottom.

Any sectional battery is hung on the holders through the top collector. Thus, on the above attachment accounts for the main load, and the holder placed at the bottom serves as a guide and fixing element.


Features of performance

The process of installing heating batteries is performed in several stages.:

  1. Marking and installing holders.
  2. Installation on the battery of components.
    Modern heating systems require a mandatory installation of automatic or manual air vent. The device is screwed into the adapter and placed on the upper collector opposite the connection point of the supply pipe.
    In unoccupied collectors, you need to install plugs.
    With the difference in the diameters of the supply and reverse tube with the collectors cross section, adapters are installed, which are supplied as standard.
  3. Installation of regulating and locking devices.
    Regardless of the adopted connection scheme in any systems in the field of input and output batteries, locking valves are mounted in the form of ball full-risk cranes, allowing dismantling the battery without stopping the system in case repair work or maintenance. The only condition is the presence of bypass when installing the battery in apartments with a vertical type of wiring.
    According to the recommendations of experts, an automatic or manual thermostat is needed as regulators. The installation standards of heating radiators do not include these devices to the mandatory, they are required to support indoors comfortable for temperature hosts.
  4. Hanging on the brackets.
    Radiators are supplied in a protective film. Before installing the heating radiator, freeing the surface from the film should not - it will protect from dirt and scratches, since the battery is usually installed at the beginning of the repair work. If the radiator is installed instead of the old, the film can be removed immediately after hanging.
  5. Connecting the feed pipe and returns.
    Connection depends on the scheme. The type of connection (crimp, threaded, welded either under the press) is selected based on the use of pipes and fittings.
  6. Pressing system or radiator.

By independently filling the system with a coolant, the cranes should be disclosed gradually. The rapid opening of the cranes will lead to a hydraulic man able to deal with the battery, destroy the reinforcement.

Subtleties of attachment to the wall

Each battery manufacturer attaches its instructions in which the requirements and installation tips are set. But one requirement is equally: Mount the radiator should be aligned with a pre-aligned and purified wall.


Fastening to the wall

Proper fixing brackets affects the efficiency of the heating system. Too big bias or skew to some side can lead to incomplete battery warming, to eliminate what the device will have to be out. Therefore, when preparing the surface and perform markup, it is necessary to strictly observe the location vertically and horizontally. The battery must be hung exactly with respect to all planes.

It is allowed to make a lifting by 1 cm from the installation side of the air vent, which will entail the accumulation on this section of the air and facilitate its removal. The bias in the opposite direction is not allowed.

Setting bimetallic radiators And the batteries of other types with a small mass, hanging should be performed on a pair of hooks located on top. If the length of the device is small, it follows them between the last two sections. The location of the third bracket must be chosen in the middle of the bottom. Hooks after installation can be sealed.


Hooks for fastening aluminum and bimetallic sections

With independent placement of the brackets in the outlined points, the holes are drilled, plugs from wood or dowels are put. Holders are fastened with self-testers with a length of 35 mm and a diameter of at least 6 mm. Such requirements are standard, the norm for a specific battery model is indicated in a technical passport.

Panel radiators are installed a little differently. Completely, special fasteners are supplied to such devices, the number of which depends on the size of the device.

To hang the heating radiator on its back surface there are special brackets. To install fasteners, you need to know the distance from the center of the battery to the bracket and transfer it as the walls on the wall. Next, applying fasteners, outdoor holes for dowels. Actions are simple: drilling, installation of dowels, fixing brackets with screws.

Features of the installation of radiators in the apartment

Considered Rules self-mount allow you to connect batteries in the conditions of autonomous and centralized heating systems.

Before replacing or installing batteries, it should be borne in mind that the work should be carried out after receiving permission from the operating or management company - the heating system is considered to be a general property. A significant change in network characteristics leads to system unbalance.


Installation of Bypassa

Installing heating batteries in the apartment has another feature. Vertical single-tube wiring requires an installation of bypass - a special jumper between the supply pipe and the return. In combination with ball valves, the bypass allows you to turn off the battery at an accident or other acute need. The system continues to function, since the heated water passes through the bypass.

Bypass will also need when installing a battery with a thermostat.

Conclusion on the topic

The process of installing heating batteries, if you follow the instructions outlined in the article, should not cause additional questions. With due preparation, compliance with the sequence of work and responsible relationship, the system will effectively serve several decades.

One of the stages of the installation of the heating system in an apartment or a private house is to install heating batteries with connecting to highways. The specified operation is better to perform before laying pipes, it is easier to make neat radiator liners. The rest of the nuances of the installation work we will reveal in detailed instructionsHow to properly install the heating radiator with your own hands.

Selection of heating devices by type and power

If you have not yet purchased the batteries, before installing, you need to select heating radiators from 4 varieties coming on sale:

  1. Sectional aluminum. Made from light alloy - silumin (aluminum + silicon) in the form of ribbed sections painted by heat-resistant polymer composition.
  2. Bimetallic heaters are made of two types - sectional and monolithic, although externally ready batteries look equally. Design: Inside each section of the silumin, a frame of steel pipes was embossed.
  3. Cast iron heating devices - Designer and Soviet sample - are only sectional.
  4. Steel radiators are welded from a stamped metal (panel) or made by casting (tubular).

Note. In addition to the heaters depicted in the photo, there are copper and plinth convectors. Water systems are used quite rarely.

Type of heating devices Choose in two criteria: the price and appearance, the corresponding interior of the rooms. One reservation: any batteries are suitable for the autonomous heating system, and in an apartment with centralized heat supply - radiators, withstanding pressure 12 bar. In a separate instruction.

The heat transfer of batteries and registers is registered in the manufacturer's technical documentation. According to the existing standards, the power of radiator sections is indicated when the temperature difference of the coolant and room air is 70 ° C.

For example, the room temperature is 20 degrees, water in the pipes - 90 ° C, then the section will give about 180 W heat. Since the coolant is rarely heated to 80-90 ° C, the actual heat transfer will be released much lower. Hence the conclusion: Take radiators with a reserve of 80-100%. Simplified in our material and video:

Almost all types of batteries are offered in 2 versions - with side or lower connections. Here the selection depends on the method of laying pipes and supply device. So, before installing it is necessary to consider the issue ...

About methods for connecting radiators

The connection circuit must be thought out in advance, the position of the heating device on the wall depends on it. Example: Installing the batteries with the lower connection involves the installation of the headset with the cranes, which takes up to 10 cm space under the heater. Imagine that 2 lines of the two-pipe system are laid over the plinth, then with a low windowsill, the radiator simply does not enter the niche.

An example of the second: you decided to make a replace yourself on your own - rent an old cast iron "accordion" in the apartment and install a modern device. The wiring pipes will not allow the lower connection to be implemented - only lateral. To set the radiator in the middle of the window, you will have to increase the liner from polypropylene or metalplastic.


Diagonal connection options: Left Scheme with ball valve, right - with thermal head

Methods for connecting batteries:

  1. Side versatile (diagonal). The coolant is fed through the upper hole, it comes out of the bottom from the opposite side, evenly flowing through the internal channels. The heat transfer is maximum, the radiator works efficiently.
  2. Side - both eyelbs are joined from 1 side. Approximately 10% of thermal power is lost, since the far part of the battery is heated worse.
  3. The lower versatile scheme is used in horizontal single-tube systems of the Leningradka type. The efficiency of the device is reduced by 10-20% depending on the pressure generated by the circulation pump.
  4. Pure low supply of the coolant is not inferior to diagonal thanks constructive features - Through the first vertical channel, the water rises into the upper radiator zone, and then diverge through the rest of the channels and is going downstairs.

Schemes with side connections are more often implemented in traditional systems - two-pipe or single-tubes (except Leningrad), which are mounted openly. Lower eyeliner - more modern optionThe pipes from the boiler are paired in the floor, going directly under the battery.


Scheme of one-sided connection of the radiator to a two-pipe and one-pipe system of an apartment building. Instead of the upper crane, you can put a head thermostat, instead of the bottom - balancing valve

4 types of radiator reinforcement

When starting water heating, the system must be balanced during operation, perform repair and flushing of radiators. To solve these tasks, the following shut-off-regulating reinforcement is used:

  • balancing valve;
  • crane ball;
  • thermostatic valve with thermal head;
  • headset for lower pipe lifting.

Important moment. When mounting the heating batteries, always use cranes with American cars - straight and angular. The connection with the cape nut will allow at any time to remove the heater without emptying the pipeline network.


On the left shown the scheme of one-sided connection of the battery with the balance valve, on the right - the lower versatile (used when mounting one-tube horizontal wiring)

How to properly install radiator reinforcement:

  1. When connecting a heating device with central heating, put 2 ball valves, the balancing valve will not need. Option Second: On the feed line you can provide a valve with a thermal head for automatic air temperature control in the room.
  2. Radiators in a private house are connected as follows: at the inlet of the ball valve, at the output - balancing valve. If you want to adjust the duct automatically, put the thermal head instead of the inlet crane.
  3. For lower joining, use a special headset with a built-in balance valve from Danfoss, Herz Armaturen, OVENTROP. There are models for the installation of the thermostat.

When replacing the battery in the apartment, do not forget to provide a bypass for direct flow of water for riser. The last radiator of the individual heating network of a country house will equip 2 cutting cranes, it is not necessary to balancing it.


With the lower connection, the coolant stream is sent to the upper horizontal radiator channel

Location and height of battery installation

Radiators should be installed in the places of the largest heat loss:

  • traditional location - under the window, in the middle of the light opening (if watching vertical);
  • in the corridor not far from the entrance door;
  • on the staircases;
  • near the cold walls of residential rooms without window openings.

The drawing shows minimum distances to the nearest structures. For efficient battery work, it is better to increase them: the upper and lower indent - up to 10 cm, rear - up to 50 mm

Explanation. When the battery is installed in the subcast niche, the ascending convection stream is mixed with cooled air from the window. If instead outdoor Wall In the room there are stained glass windows, it is better to build water or electric convectors to the floor.

If the installation of heating radiators is conducted under the windows, keep the following minimum indents:

  • from the outer wall - 2.5 cm;
  • from the windowsill - 50 mm;
  • from the floor - 60 ... 200 mm depending on the type of heating device and the method of its connection.

In contrast to aluminum and bimetallic batteries, the depth of steel panel radiators varies in a wide range - from 6 cm (type 10) to 160 mm (type 33). The thicker the battery, the more air it is capable of skipping and heat. So, it is necessary to provide air supply to the bottom and removal of warm flux on top of the heater. Installation schemes of steel panels different types Led in drawing.


The mounting height of panel radiators depends on the specific type

Recommendation. We do not advise you to fully sew the radiator after installation, making 2 convective openings with lattices. You lose the entire infrared heat flux, and this is at least 20% of the battery power. But the air under the trim is warm up to 30-40 ° C, due to the temperature difference between the street and the niche, heat losses will grow.

Installation instructions

To hang and connect the battery to heating pipes, prepare such components and materials:

  • hooks with plastic dowels for fastening the radiator to the wall - minimum 3 pcs.;
  • 2 Fortors (side traffic jams) with the right tube carvings are indicated by the Latin letter D;
  • 2 Fortors with left-thread, marking - S;
  • 1 (Maevsky's crane) with a key;
  • 1 plug;
  • sealing silicone thread or flax;
  • crane, valve balancing, thermostatic valve, headset - according to the scheme;
  • polypropylene, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes Inner diameter of 10-15 mm on eyeliner.

The number of fixtures depends on the magnitude of the heating device. Aluminum battery up to 10 sections should be attached to 3 hooks or special bracket - 2 top, 1 below. In other cases, 4 fasteners are used.

Steel panels are sold assembly, hanging brackets are included. Heavy cast iron radiators of floor mounting are equipped with legs.


Varieties of wall and floor brackets used for fixing batteries

You need from the tools:

  • electric drill and drill, corresponding to wall hardness;
  • screwdriver either screwdriver;
  • construction level;
  • gas key;
  • roulette, pencil.

Pre-assembly

Radiator sections are tightened between themselves with nipples - metal coats, on which the left and right thread (half of the length) is cut. To connect, you need a long key with a nozzle under Nipple, in household This is not found. From here Tip: Ask to twist the sections right in the store.

Section Battery Collect in this order:

  1. Clean the site around the side openings.
  2. Tighten 4 horses from the ends, gently tighten them with a gas key. Please note: Tubes with conventional carvings should be screwed into the right ends of the radiator, with the left thread - in the left (if you look at the front side of the product).
  3. Unused bottom output Close the plug from the kit.
  4. Using the sealing material, spare and screw into the upper channel of the crane Maevsky.
  5. In the remaining 2 holes, install the response part of the Americans disconnected from the cranes.

Important moment. An element of an American with a cape nut need to be wrapped inside the hoods until it stops. Otherwise, the nut will not move away from the edge and will not give to attach the valve itself. For screwing, you will need a special internal key, but if you wish, you can do through powerful passages.

After installing the Americans, screw the valves and tighten (so far from hand). Panel assembly heaters do not require, except to install the air vent. Film from the case do not remove - it will protect the coating from random damage.


Installation scheme for assembling sectional radiator

How to place a radiator mount

We start with the preparation - we remove the interfering items, we dress up old wallpapers (you can stick the reflective screen from the foil), make a dismantling of the old battery in case of replacement. Be careful, do not cut off the grinding thread on steel laying pipes. Better clean it with a metal brush and unpack coupling connectionBy reloading the nut.

Reference. If, by virtue of various reasons, the carving has become unusable, you will have to look for a set of tube larks and cut the coils on a new one. In open heating systems operating under atmospheric pressure, the use of crimping connecting couplings of the GEBO type is allowed.

How to make the correct markup under the battery:

  1. Determine the middle of the window opening and mark it on the wall of the vertical line.
  2. Rates from the windowsill 7-10 cm, read the horizontal with a level. This line denotes the position of the upper end of the radiator.
  3. Measure the distance from the center of the assembled battery to the suspension points, place it horizontally in both sides of the vertical line. Section heater can be placed in the wall and make tags opposite two extreme joints.
  4. Find out the size from the top panel to the radiator attachment point, set aside this distance down from previous tags. Get the upper points of drilling.
  5. The bottoms of the lower suspensions are defined easily: back down another 50 cm is the standard heaters' standard inter-axis distance. There are other sizes - 300, 600 mm and so on.

After marking work it is worth checking the distance from the point of fastening to the floor, the best way - attach to the wall assembled battery

Before marking, be sure to check the horizontal of the window sill. If it stands unevenly, and you have a battery in the level, then it will seem from the side that it is the radiator crooked. Then you need to navigate the slope of the windowsill.

The moment is the second: so that the air go through the crane Maevsky, the heater is installed with a small bias. The side of the device where the airmower is located, is literally literally by 1-2 mm, visually such a skew will remain invisible.

When replacing the radiator with connecting to existing pipes, they will have to measure their position relative to the windowsill, then get tight in height. How it is done, will show the master on the video:

Finishing stage

The final installation of heating radiators is conducted according to simple rules:

  1. Drill holes, score dowels and attach the suspension. The hooks for sectional devices are screwed taking into account the smallest retreat of 25 mm.
  2. Hang the battery to the brackets and sign up the eyeliner. For convenience, mark the lines on the wall.
  3. Remove the radiator and perform preliminary work - Join the furrows for hidden gaskets, connect the liner to the highways, cover the reflective screen.
  4. Finally, install the heating device, connect the pipes and tighten the American.

    On the photo on the left - the side connection node with bypass, on the right - the lower connection with hidden liners

To successfully fill the system with heat carrier, cutting cranes and valves leave open. The manual air vent must remain closed, it is used in the process of water injection or antifreeze.

When replacing the radiator central heating At the height of the season, it is necessary to block the entire riser. At the end of the installation of cranes at the input of the battery, close, then apply water in the riser. When the noise of the coolant subsides, slowly open the upper crane first, then the bottom. From the battery.

How to hang the battery on a warmed wall

Sometimes homeowners are insulating outer walls From the inside with a layer of foam or extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick. When installing the radiator battery, a problem occurs - regular hooks are too short, and longer test the console load and bent. It is clear that attached to the foam is unrealistic, only to the wall.

A simple decision offers our expert Vitaly Dashko in his video. Battery mounting technology:

  1. Place the attachment points on the foregoing instructions.
  2. Take wooden bar 5 x 5 cm (or in the thickness of the insulation) 600 mm long or the size of the bracket for the steel radiator.
  3. Cut in the foam vertical recess in the foam, insert the timber there and screw to the wall with any fastener - dowels, anchors, copper.
  4. We put the heating device on standard suspensions attached to the bars.

We look at the radiator installation video on a warmed wall:

Conclusion

To install heating radiators, do not need to pass any special training or have a profile education. Just remember the nuances of installation, see a few videos from experienced masters And you can proceed to work. The only warning: batteries should be fixed reliably, especially cast-iron. Drawing or broken bracket will lead to the leakage of the coolant, sometimes quite hot 😊.

In order to be warm in the house, the installation of the heating system should be adjusted. At the same time, it is important not only to fully implement the necessary complex of work, but also to properly connect all heating elements. It is necessary to take into account the existing rules on the number heating elements To place a specific area. If desired, everything can be done with your own hands.

Is the assembly required?

If the radiators are supplied in the assembled form to install the plugs and. Most models have four holes located in the four corner corners. They are used to connect highways of heating. In this case, any scheme can be implemented.

Before the installation of the system is started, it is necessary to close extra holes using special plugs or aircraft taps. The battery pack includes adapters that need to be screwed into the collectors of the product. These adapters should be connected to various communications in the future.

Prefabricated models

The battery assembly is worth starting from laying the entire product or its sections on a flat surface. Best for the floor. Before this stage should determine how many sections will be installed. There are norms that allow you to determine the optimal amount.


The connection of the sections is carried out using nipples having two external threads: the right and left, as well as turnkey protrusion. Nipples should be tied in two blocks: at the top and bottom.

Collecting the radiator, it is necessary to use gaskets supplied with the product.

It is necessary to ensure that the upper edges of the sections are correctly located - in the same plane. The tolerance is 3 mm.

Features of the installation of various species

The material from which a specific heating element is manufactured, presents certain requirements for its installation. If cast iron is not afraid of a serious mechanical impact, then others require special accuracy.

Cast iron classic

Still remain relevant. Special characteristics of the material used in their manufacture make it possible to effectively heat the room of any area due to slow cooling.

To mount such a heating item correctly, it follows to connect:


  • disassemble the finished product on the section;
  • stretching all the nipples, collect the product in the reverse order.

When performing installation work, it is worth considering the weight of the product and the composition of the material from which the house was built. Installation of the heating element can be made exclusively on brick and concrete walls. about plasterboard Wall It is performed on the floor stand.

Modern models

Such products are low weight and increased fragility. For them, it is necessary to provide for the crane of Maevsky.


In the process of performing installation work, you should not remove the packaging to eliminate surface deformation.

How will we connect?

The diagram of connecting radiators can be different. From how the option will be given preference, the level of heat transfer and the comfort of staying in the apartment depends. Incorrectly selected layout can reduce the power of the heating system by 50%.

Side

The one-sided lateral scheme, which distinguishes the highest heat transfer rate obtained the greatest distribution. In this case, the pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the top nozzle, and the discharge with the bottom.


If you draw on the contrary, the effectiveness of the heating of the room will decrease almost 7%. To connect multisective radiators, such a scheme is not always justified, as insufficient warming of the last sections is possible. You can avoid this by installing water duct extension.

Lower

In the apartment with hidden in the floor or passing under the plinth pipes use the bottom connection.


This is the most aesthetic option in which the nozzles for supplying and removing the coolant are located at the floor, and therefore the bottom holes are used to connect.

Diagonal

Installation of batteries that have twelve or more sections, is carried out in a diagonal scheme.


The coolant is supplied through the upper nozzle, which is located on one side of the radiator, and is given through the bottom on the other side.

Consistent

Such a connection scheme assumes the presence in the system of pressure heating sufficient for the movement of the coolant through pipes.


It should be provided for the crane of Maevsky, intended for removal of excess air.

It is important to remember that the performance of repair and preventive work will be accompanied by the disconnection of the entire heating system.

Parallel

The parallel wiring assumes the presence of a special heat pipe, which is built into the heating system through which the coolant is supplied and the outside.


The presence of special cranes at the inlet and outlet makes it possible to replace individual radiators without turning off heat supply. However, the scheme can cause insufficient heating of pipes under reduced pressure in the system.

Sequence of performance

Installation of batteries begins with full overlap of the contour. When replacing old radiators, water merges, and is dismantled heating elements. It will be right to use the pump to eliminate the presence of the remnants of the coolant in the system.

After all the water is removed, the battery mounting is reconciled in both planes. Installed brackets.

Packaging

The next step will be the packaging of radiators using sealing flax, packaging paste or special shut-off reinforcement. Using the dynamometer key, tighten the connection, creating the force specified in the documentation.

Mounting work

Installation of radiators on the wall is carried out by welding or polypropylene pipes. In the first case, it is enough to use two fasteners, in the second they will need at least three. Two must be at the top one below.


At ten or more sections, the number of fasteners should be increased to five. The top should be three, down - two.

Control of spatial location

Monitoring the position of the batteries in both planes. It is advisable to provide a small slope towards the wall. This will avoid bringing the system during its operation.

The final stage

Cutting threads on risers and connecting all elements of the heating system. The tightness of all connections is carefully monitored.


After that, you can perform trial tests in order to detect possible leaks.

Test

If until now everything was performed with your own hands, at this stage it is better to invite a locksmith ZhReu. Broken the "American" cranes, you can open a connecting faucet. Opening the reverse tube is better to trust the locksmith.

In the absence of leaks in places, it will be possible to open a crane on the batteries and close the bypass crane. The coolant will begin to enter the heating. For air booming it is worth using Maevsky's crane.


As soon as the heating circuit warms out in all rooms, the locksmith will open the straight pipe. This will restore the pressure in the system. We can assume that control tests are completed. If the installation was performed correctly, the apartment will be comfortable at minimal cost.