Sewer pits do it yourself. How to dig a drain pit correctly, given the required depth

And the dumping pit, where all the impurities come. Despite everything positive sides Such structures, they can be dangerous for a person due to microorganisms that begin to multiply at the positive temperature.

Basic information

If the cesspool was erected without taking into account all sanitary and technical norms (on SNiP), sewage can be leaked into the soil, and then in groundwater, which is fraught with heavy poisoning of the body. If you do the drain pit with your own hands, do not forget to take into account all the requirements for working.

How to build a hermetic model?

In general, he does not differ from the previous method, but still there are minor differences:

The bottom must be concrete.
No hardings for infiltration are required.

The scheme is as follows:

For starters, reinforced bottom part concrete base.
To make the fittings not drowned, it can be lifted and strengthened on the spikes.
Walls require careful sealing. Most inexpensive option - This is a bitumen, a plaster or clay is suitable for the outside.

Brickwork in this case takes a lot more time.

Installation of finished models

You can perform a standard solution, dug the kitty on the classic scheme and purchase a finished product. The owner will need to prepare a place for a pillow, which is made from gravel and concrete. This design should be strengthened during the week, after which the ready-made kit is laid.

Conclusion

Without properly functioning it is impossible to create comfortable conditions Accommodation. The process is not complicated, you can cope on your own. Do not save on materials, you will use the drain pit for a long time. The main thing is to provide sufficient volume and regular service. If the work is fulfilled correctly, you can enjoy the comfort and comfort of your country house for many years.

Useful video

The video review will clearly show all the details of the installation work:

Construction of bricks:

Filling formwork for concrete:

Availability autonomous sewage On the country site makes accommodation in the house comfortable, comparable to stay in a comfortable apartment. It is important to take care of the final receiver of fecal / domestic wastewater, for example, to make a reliable cesspool to do with their own hands. From how correctly it will be designed and mounted, the functionality of the collector depends.

Types and device cesspools for giving

Regardless of the design and material, the first receiver must be hermetic

As a finite receiver, fecal can be:

Cellic leakage. It is a reservoir formed directly in the soil. It is assumed that the drains will fall into it and then periodically pump out. However, there are several problems. First, such a receiver inflicts irreparable harm to the environment. Seating in the soil estimates fall into groundwater, seriously undermine the environmental situation in the region. Therefore, the law of the Russian Federation has been adopted on criminal liability for the device of such wells. Secondly, the earth's bottom with time is stolen, which leads to a rapid filling of the pit. It has to be pushed more often.
Sealed cesspool. It is formed in the soil, but pre-concreted on all sides or is laid out with bricks. Sometimes any volumetric tank (barrels, polymer cubes, etc.) is used as a hermetic receiver.
Septic overflow - a full-fledged sewage system. Works on the principle of gradual wastewater treatment. Consists of two or three cameras. The first is sealed, the latter - with a draining bottom. Fecal waters fall into the first receiver, defend, due to which the large debris settles on the bottom, light - floats to the surface. The clarified water overflows into the second chamber and defends itself on the same principle. Then even more purified water goes to a third chamber, where it is already drained into the soil.

Lighted in septic sappets are safe for soil, as the percentage of their purification is from 85%.

Regulatory requirements

Installations of SanPiN and SNiP.

The pit is located at the lowest point of the site so that fecal waters move to it by gravity.
From the house the receiver remove at least 5 meters, but the further, the better.
From the sources of drinking water (their and neighbors), the pit is mounted at a distance of 25 meters and more.
The volume of the reservoir according to SNiP is derived from the calculation of 200 liters of water per family member per day. On average, for three people can be mounted a hole by 3-4 m3.
It is advisable to leave a place to entrance to the receiver of the association equipment.

With a hole device with a draining bottom important to level groundwater The site was located below the level of the base of the receiver per 1 meter minimum. Otherwise, according to sanitary standards, it is prohibited to arrange such a pit under the toilet and other plumbing objects.

Design and carrying out the required calculations

To build a hole correctly, you need to accurately calculate. First of all, the volume of the future tank is calculated. It is derived from the average recommended indicators of 1.5-2 m3 per family member.

You need to calculate the parameters / receiver size (depth and width). Depth depends on groundwater level. What they are higher, the smallest and wider make a pit. 30 cm on the sand pillow and the resulting depth and concrete fill Or for the device drainage bottom.

Here you also need to calculate the amount of bricks for masonry walls. The height of the walls is divided into the height of one brick plus 6 mm (the height of the masonry seam). Thus, the number of masonry rows is obtained. Next, you need to find out how many blocks in one row. For this, its length is divided into brick width. As a result, the total number of blocks for masonry is obtained.

The neck of the reservoir must be lifted by 20-30 cm above the ground level to eliminate its flooding waters.

Required tools and materials required

For the device of a cesspool without pumping in the country, you need to prepare such tools and materials:

brick for laying out the walls of a drain receiver (can be replaced with a plastic cube / barrel without a bottom, concrete rings);
river sand;
crushed a large fraction;
booth, broken brick or large river stone;
shovel;
pegs and control cord;
roulette;
cement and sand for the preparation of the solution;
concrete mixer or pallet;
luke cover.

You also need to stock ladder, bucket, pickaxe and truste.

Independent installation of cesspools in the country

The first stage of work is the preparation of the soil. Pumping a pit, equal to the volume of the future pit. Up to 30-40 cm are discharged to the drainage intake. Pre-mark with pegs, control cord, roulettes.

On the perimeter, the bottom is digging a trench of 15 cm wide and a depth of 15 cm. It will be a foundation for the walls of the receiver. They put a formwork from thin boards. The solution is harvested from rubble, sand and cement in a ratio of 6: 4: 1. The finished composition is filled with formwork and wait for its drying.

To the frozen foundation produce brickwork, leaving the hole for entering sewer pipe. Finished walls You can additionally shock with a solution for masonry.

Suit the draining bottom. First, the layer of river sand is poured with a thickness of 10 cm. From above stacked rubble shallow fraction. Top layer of drainage - broken brick or river stone.

The top of the receiver is covered with concrete slabs or metal sheets. Leave a hole under the hatch. The edges of the plates, sheets must be outside the perimeter of the receiver by 30 cm. From above, everything is covered with a turder, soil or just rubberoid.

Luke Jama is preferably insulated so that the cold does not freeze the drains in the winter, and the soulsion did not feel from the receiver. Reduced waste levels can be reduced if in the warm season to upload special bacteria to the recycling of fecal water.

Common Errors in Construction

Frequent errors in the device of the pit under household drains:

Incorrectly defined volume of the tank. If it is too small, you will have to completely pump off the water, spend the family budget.
Invalidly located sewage pipe (bottom or in the middle of the pit). It is always located in the upper quarter of the receiver.
The location of the cesspool at the upper point of the site. The drains will not be able to get a gravity.
Lack of fortified walls of the receiver. As a result, the ground may turn, and the dirty water is seamless to underground flows.

If you consider et. typical errors And everything is done correctly, a good reservoir can be retracted only once every six months, and when using bacteria and even less often. Il, which will be formed by their impact, can be applied later as compost.

Life in the urban apartment is good because with a discharge of stocks no problems usually do not occur. In this regard, private homes are lagging behind, since there is no central drainage system in them, and the only way to ensure comfortable accommodation is the arrangement of a cesspool, in which the products of life and life would be reset.

Without a cesspool pit, the drains deposited on nearby territories quickly pollute the soil and can harm not only nature, but also to people.

Classification of cesspools

There are several options for the design of the cesspool, so first it is worth dealing with them.

A simple pit is a design without a bottom in which the liquid is absorbed by the Earth. This option is the most popular, because digging in this case is carried out quite rarely. But with increased water consumption (more than 1 m³ per day), the filter will simply not cope. Moreover, it is so unsafe in an environmental plan, especially if the toilet waste is dismissed. Of course, it can be filled from time to time, but it will reduce the useful volume, and the characteristic sealing smell will still be present.
Hermetic pit needs periodic cleaning, but absolutely safe for ambient. The arrangement of hermetic design is much more complicated than the above, and costs increase, but numerous advantages fully justify all this.
- Modern analogue of a cesspool. It is laid out by gravel, stones or brick fights, which allows the mechanical water purification (read: the soil is not contaminated). Moreover, the filling of the pit occurs quite slowly.

Now find out how to make a cesspool.

Arrangement of brick cesspool

Before entering directly to construction, determine the appropriate place and calculate the desired designs.

The first stage. Choosing a place

The construction of the cesspool on the country site is regulated by SNiP. The location of the EUs, as well as the distance to certain buildings, are clearly governed by sanitary standards. When planning, these requirements must be taken into account.

The distance between the pit and the fence should exceed 1 m.
The distance to the premises in which people are planned, should be at least 12 m.
If you plan to create a simple pit, that is, without the bottom, then the distance from it to the nearest well or well should exceed 30 m.

Based on these requirements, select an optimal place, then proceed to the calculation of the sizes.

Stage second. Dimensions

There are a number of parameters that need to be taken into account when calculating the size of the future design.

First of all, the dimensions depend on the type of rocks that lie on a specific site. And if the soil consists mainly of a moisture-passing breed (for example, from Mergel), the volume of the design should be 40% of the waste, which are produced within a month. And if these are breeds, poorly passing moisture (for example, clay), the volume should be equal monthly norm + Small stock.
Also here refers to the number of permanent residents at home. On average, one person produces 180 liters of stocks a day. And if the family consists, say, out of 3 people, then the monthly sewage volume will be 12 m³.
According to SNOP, the distance to the surface should be at least 1 m. In the non-compliance of this, the conditions of impurity can go beyond the construction limits, and unpleasant odors will necessarily appear.
The depth should be a maximum of 3 m. This is the optimal depth, because sooner or later you will have to resort to the help of the cleaning assessions. And if the pit is a hermetic, then such a cleaning will need to be carried out several times a month.

Stage Third. Preparation of the necessary equipment

In the paper it will be necessary:

bayonet and soviet shovels;
trowel, tank for mixing cement mortar;
roulette;
cord with small wooden pegs;
building level;
stairs.

Stage fourth. Digger Kotlovana

With the construction of a cesspool, you can cope with your own without resorting to help construction brigade with special equipment. This will significantly save. But remember: you have to manually remove about 20 m³ of land.

On a note! If possible, the pit need to dig up at the stage of digging a pit under the foundation of the house. After that, only a minor part of the work will remain.

Follow the perimeter of the future design. Often the width of the pit is 1 m, and the depth is 1.5 m. Length depends on the volume of wastewater. The fertile layer of the soil can be distributed over the site, the rest will have to take out. Leave only 1.5 m³ in order to float overlap.

Digged care almost completed

In the same stage, the trench should be pulled out into which the sewer tube will be laid.

Stage fifth. Base

If you plan on the construction of a hermetic assessionation pit, then arrange at the bottom of the "pillow" from the sand with a thickness of 15 cm. On top of the sand, put a layer of concrete of a similar thickness, then stack the solution with a sharp object in order to remove air bubbles. Then it remains only to lay on top of concrete 4-centimeter cement-sand y tie.

Perhaps you will be interested in information about what looks like

Wait for the full base to dry, then put the sewer pipe for the output of unclean.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Stage Sixth. Laying wall

Immediately make a reservation that you can not try on the quality of masonry, because no one else will see it. Perform it in ¼ or ½ bricks, in a checker order, use cement-sandy mortar. On both sides, placing the laying in the same solution - it will extend the basic operational period of the structure. Corners tie up.

Having finished with the masonry, isolate the walls with bitumen mastic.

Stage seventh. Overlapping

To mount the overlap, follow these steps.

Step 1. First, the soil is at first for about 20 cm on each side - so you will provide an additional support for overlapping stove.

Step 2. Construct formwork. It is advisable to use professional flooring for this so that the overlap is as tough as possible. Make the formwork also around the hatch and holes for the ventilation pipe.

Step 3. Place the reinforcement rods, withstand the distance of about 10-15 cm. Dressing the intersecting rods using steel wire.

Step 4. Fill overlap concrete solution, Align it.

Spend concrete bayonet so that it completely filled the reinforcement grid. Bay solution to the desired thickness, wait for the durability. Often it takes a minimum of 28 days.

On a note! On top of the overlap, it is possible to lay a layer of waterproofing material - for example, rubberoid or PE film.

Stage eighth. Failure

As soon as concrete gains strength, proceed to the backfill of the cesspool. It is desirable to use clay soil for this to create additional protection of groundwater from the effluent. It is possible to put on the overlap of thermal insulation material (for example, sheet polystyrene foam), and to fall asleep soil from above. At the end, install the ventilation pipe.

On a note! It is advisable to build a double hatch - it will prevent the spread of an unpleasant smell, especially in the warm season. Install the first cover at the soil level, the second - at the level of the overlapping plate. The space between the lids can be filled with slag or clay.

from concrete rings

There is another option - it costs more, but finished design It will look more organic. Brick pits are often rectangular or square, but the use of w / b rings allows you to achieve perfect round shape. This will prevent an excessive load on the walls and, as a result, their destruction. The only disadvantage is that the special equipment may need to work, because concrete cylinders weigh a lot.

The first stage. Selection of rings

Today, concrete rings are made in several modifications that differ from each other with a diameter (it varies within 70-250 cm). For cesspool, products with a diameter of 1 m are most of all and with the same height. For the average house, there will be five rings, the total useful volume of which will be 5 m³. If according to the calculations, the volume should be large, then take other Ring rings or buy products with a large diameter.

Dimensions (diameter internal × × diameter × height), mm	volume, m3	Mass, kg.
700 × 800 × 290	0,05	130
700 × 840 × 590	0,10	250
700 × 840 × 890	0,15	380
1000 × 1160 × 290	0,08	200
1000 × 1160 × 590	0,160	400
1000 × 1160 × 890	0,24	600
1500 × 1680 × 290	0,13	290
1500 × 1680 × 590	0,27	660
1500 × 1680 × 890	0,40	1000
2000 × 2200 × 590	0,39	980
2000 × 2200 × 890	0,59	1480

Such rings are classified according to the features of the design into two large groups:

flat;
with lock.

In the first case, the edges of the products are ordinary, flat, and in the second - equipped with the lock compounds "Paz-Comb". Rings with the lock are very convenient, because not only ensure the simplicity of the installation, but also reliably seal the entire pit.

On a note! In the manufacture of the railway rings, a minimum "five hundred" cement and a metal reinforcing framework is used. There are also products with a lid and a bottom, which significantly facilitates construction.

Stage second. Building

Step 1. First dig a pity. It is important that its dimensions are about 40 cm exceeded the diameter of the rings. The depth of the pit must exceed the overall height of all rings somewhere on 25-30 cm.

Step 2. Align and confuse the bottom of the pit, then pour it off with a 2-centimeter layer of large sand. Pour sand with water, compact. So you will create a kind of "pillow" to which further installation will be made.

Step 3. Further events will develop one of the two possible scenarios:

the first is the ring with the bottom;
conventional rings are installed.

In the first case, you get rid of the laborious procedure for filling the base; This is the easiest option, so it is recommended to use that. But if for one reason or another failed to purchase a ring with a bottom, then you will have to fill the bottom of the bottom.

To do this, put the reinforcement rods in the form of a lattice, then bind them with each other with steel wire.

On a note! Lift the reinforcing mesh above the surface so that it (grid) is entirely in the bonding body. Use for this pieces of bricks.

Then proceed to the preparation of the solution. Mix for this cement, water, sand and crushed stone in proportion 1: 0.5: 2: 3. Use the minimum "four hundredth" cement, and if the brand is lower, then reduce the volume of fillers. For the knead you can use the concrete mixer, and you can perform work manually using a shovel. But remember: the solution must be prepared in such a volume so that the bottom of the pit is flooded in one approach, without subsequent environment.

Fill concrete, distribute it over the entire surface. Stop it with a sharp object to remove air bubbles.

Stage Third. Setting the rings

Manual rings in the pit do not omit, because they weigh quite a lot. This will require a car crane. On each ring there are four fastening elements made in the form of ears (for them products and rise). For the manufacture of such ears, a roller is used, the diameter of which is at least 0.6 cm.

On a note! Rings should be raised simultaneously for all the ears, and the cables should be evenly stretched. The entire procedure must be done carefully, slowly.

As soon as the first ring is omitted, align it and exhibit with a level. After that, you can lower the rest. The junctions between the rings make the cement-based sealant, and all the walls of the design - external and internal - treat with bitumen mastic.

At the end, the lid is installed. When the truck crane raises and install the lid in place, seal the joints between it and the last cylinder. After that, pour emptiness between the walls of the design and the walls of the pit.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated. Of course, you will have to fulfill labor-consuming earthworks and pay for rent special equipment, but good sewage In a private house, it is simply necessary, so all costs are fully justified.

Video - how to make a cesspool with your own hands

R / b rings or brick - what to choose?

Each of the options is quite simple in execution, but also concrete rings, and u brick masonry There are advantages.

The strength and practicality of the cesspool of rings of rings is noticeably higher.
The brick pit less often needs an assessing cleaning.
Rings are withstanding a large load than brickwork, albeit "in checked".

As a result, we note that the construction of a cesspool on the plot requires solid investments, at least if we are talking about really good design, for the manufacture of which is used qualitative materials. Do not save on materials that will be in contact with moisture (do not use slag blocks or silicate brick in construction), because everyone knows that it is not very much to pay. Act carefully, if necessary, ask for help from friends and acquaintances, do not rush - and the association pit will serve you for many years.

Table. Water consumption for a private house. Selection of cesspool

Water consignors: Individual or block residential buildings	Specific average daily (per year) Economic and drinking water consumption in settlements per resident, l / day
with water supply and sewer without bath	120
with water supply and sewage without baths, gas supply	150
with water supply, sewage and baths with water heaters working on solid fuel	180
with water supply, sewage and bathroom with gas or electric boiler	190
with water supply, sewage, with high-speed gas heaters (speakers) and several baths	250

Good luck in work!

Device of cumulative septicity of concrete rings

For citizens, the problems of removal and disposal of household wastewater solve utilities, but the adherents of a separate country life have to independently think over such urgent questions. If the owner of the estate intended to accommodate a numerous family is most often to order installation on the volume septic septic area or local cleaning station, then the summer house may well build a cesspool from inexpensive or thrust materials. It and with an important sanitary function will be perfectly cope with, and it will not require the allocation of too much tools for arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historic predecessor of this sewer facility was digsulated in the ground the simplest pit, the walls of which were deceived by clay, strengthened with boards. Then the old barrels, tanks, and other lengths that served in the ground began to roast. Now such "tanks" for collecting and partial filtering of the effluents are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic value. m.

The elementary cesspool pit for the toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents staying on the plot for a couple of days a week in summer season. However, its device does not approve, and sometimes sanitary-epidemiological services are completely prohibited, often accompanying the prohibitions by imposing administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest sheathed floorboards for closet to the tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark should be higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level at least 1 meter.

If the country's owner really does not want to spend money on the structure of the structure, and it has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be used with benefit. It will be necessary to simply lay the tires in the dug pita, bolted them with each other. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, in the side of the tire stacked on top, it is necessary to cut a hole for the addition of the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the homemade sewage treatment plant, it is covered with soil, stacked on top concrete plate With a hole for the ventilation pipe and the hatch for pumping.

The owner of a n-number amount of worn tires can make an excellent tank for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic constructive differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and hermetic containers. The functions of the collection, accumulation and purification of the efforts are also septic. They are more complex on the technical aspects of the installation with the forced stimulation of the motion of the effluent inside and with the biological-chemical methods of cleaning.

Unacceptable violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Capacities without the bottom - absorbing

Straight descendants of the "folk" bump. Them characteristic - Lack of bottom, due to which the liquid component of the drain, passing the purification of coarse filtration through the layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other "ingredients", goes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical, moreover, the pits of this type may well implement absolutely not having experience in the field of construction. Even savings: due to partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less likely to call for assessing agents.

Constructive pattern of cesspool without bottom - Strokes pass filtering through crushed stone

The absorbing variety of pits choose if there is no need for a discharge large number effluors if in country house no jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of the earth will not be able to process and accept. In addition, the cleaned cleaning cannot be attributed to the category of absolutely effective procedures, it means that it will still be polluted by the medium from the absorbing type pit.

Sealed wastewater reservoirs

In their name there is a direct tip, talking about the main constructive features. In fact, these are closed containers from non-water-transmitting concrete, brick masonry, plastic, gas-silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Sealed designs will ensure the complete absence of the inherent in the shale of the smells, but will force the owners to regularly call the assessing machine to remove accumulations.

Important. For the construction of the bump, it is not applicable to the slagoblock, it will break too quickly from the water contact.

The easiest way to buy and buried the factory plastic container To collect the effluent, bringing to it the sewer pipeline and periodically cause districts for emptying

The simplest scheme of the device for the drama for wastewater will be the installation of plastic capacitance purchased in the store. It does not need to be sealing, however, it is advisable to pour the bottom of the pitual cement screed And strengthen the walls of the reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by a non-primary appearance, then there is no need to burst it into Earth. Another weighty is a very argument in favor: the design of plastic can be installed independently of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

Filled with the waste mass of the tank completely should not be completely, between the lid of the hatch and the fluid level should be at least one meter, if the level exceeded the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septics

These are already more complex structures that make not only deep cleaning, but also processing the waste mass in valuable fertilizer for gardeners and gardens. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collecting and coarse mechanical cleansing occurs, and in subsequent chambers, specific bacteria comes into battle, finally process polluting inclusions of wastewater.

Village Yama With overflow, so qualitatively cleans the water that it can be successfully used on economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septicism lies in a multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected stock is subjected to coarse filtering, in the following cameras produced a more subtle cleaning

If the effort is not a pity, but the surplus of funds are not observed, you can resort again to the worn out automotive rubber. In the sense of "Lysim", but not wipes to the holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to the cast building material. For mounting septic tires do not need powerful concrete foundation, a sufficiently compacted pillow of rubble with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter tie.

To increase the volume of the tank of the sidewall, the tires must be cut off.
In the well made of tires, a vertical pipe made of concrete is installed, its diameter is about two times less than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made from the business.
The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that the monolithic concrete cylinder is.

At the top it will be necessary to make holes for infiltration and to install pipes that provide overflow.

The design of the cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber should be located higher than the pipe overflow

The sewer tube must be entered into the concrete container located inside the tire.

Seatalization pipes in vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealing.

Consider the installation stages of several design options.

Absorbing

The owners of small country possessions, solved the elementary sewer personally, most often choose this option. Attracts simple design And the possibility is not too often resorting to the services of the assessing agents. The walls can be put out of bricks or gas-silicate blocks, but it is easier and quick to raise them by setting each other concrete rings.

Build walls from gas silicate blocks much faster than putting them out of the brick, even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but for their installation you will need a crane-manipulator

Hermetic

The principle of structures is similar, only no need to form holes for infiltration of purified drain and the bottom must be completely concrete. It is advisable to rein the lower concrete platform, laying the concrete grid to the bottom to the bottom. In order for the fittings not "drowned" in concrete, it needs to be slightly lifted over the surface and strengthen on the spikes.

Important aspect: Walls are recommended to seal. Cheap option for inner isolation - bitumen, outside the homemade sewer object can be simply deceived by clay. If the walls of the pits were erected from the brick, they can be plastered.

Standard design of hermetic cesspool with concrete bottom, walls can be built of concrete rings, lay out bricks or gasilicate blocks, Make a monolithic container, bay concrete into formwork

Brick masonry will take much longer than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom of the analogy concrete screedAnd the laying of bricks can be both in a circle and, "swaying" in the perimeter, a square or a rectangle. The flooded concrete platform must "mature" before the start of the masonry, stood 7-8 days.

Important. During the execution period, you need to form holes for the sewer tube. The connection point is located below the labeling level recorded by local meteorological services.

The sewer pipeline to the place of waste collection should be slightly tilted to provide spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe that shakes into the pit should be located below the level of the freezing, the pipeline must be laid under the tilt to ensure the spontaneous movement of the sewage

Installing ready-made complexes

It is easier and more convenient for their use, nothing can be invented, the arrangement of a cesspool from exactly the size of the components is made extremely operational. The only drawback: the manufacturer specified by the manufacturer. But produce a factory product mainly with the calculation on the average consumer. That is, finding the desired kit is completely simple.

Methods and methods, how to make a cesspool a lot. From the variety of options it remains to choose the optimal, meeting the type of design. What costs are more important, on which it is better to save, choose the owner yourself and the performer, and knowledge constructive differences It will help to take a right decision.

Developers of summer cottages and country houses Often become before the question: how to make a cesspool? Today we want to reveal several "secrets" about the design of such a sewer system and the peculiarities of its device on their own site.

Types of cesspools

It is customary to distinguish between two main types of cesspool. First - pit without bottom. The second is a hermetic cesspool. Below is a description of the methods of the device, the advantages and disadvantages of each of the types of structures.

Cesspools without bottom

Here it is necessary to immediately make a reservation that the device cesspool without a bottom for the toilet is not allowed by sanitary standards in cases where the daily volume of effluents exceeds 1 cubic meter.

This is due to the fact that the ingun of uncleaned wastewater in the ground causes an increased danger of pollution not only of your site, but also underground groundwater and violation of the general environmental situation. Therefore, this option is considered the most acceptable for country sites where you constantly live.

The designs of cesspool are also popular in small villages and villages, they do not require large costs For work and consumption of cash on materials.

Today, today the means of modern chemistry, it is possible to successfully neutralize the harmful effects of untreated wastewater, but there is a ban on the construction of such NMS in terms of wastewater, and it is necessary to take into account when the new construction of country houses and cottages.

More modern designs can be called overflow cesspools and septics, which have several advantages over cesspools without the bottom - no odor and a higher degree of wastewater treatment.

If you want a peat toilet to be in the house, then it is necessary to include it in the layout of the house, which is described in more detail. The layout of the house determines the beauty of the finished structure, the rationality of the use of space and the convenience of its maintenance.

The device of hermetic cesspools

The device of such holes is quite simple - you just dig up the damasted size, acquire a hermetic container and instill it in the pit. As for the rules of pipe laying - they are similar to those described above.

To take into account the distance to the residential building and the borders of the neighboring site, you need to contact local town-planning organizations.

A peculiarity of hermetic cesspools is that the drains of them are, as can be seen from the very name, do not fall into the ground. Accordingly, periodically you will be forced to call an assessing machine to pump out the capacitance of the accumulated wastewater. It is quite natural that it will require certain regular financial costs that will reduce all the savings of starting investments.

Additional problems also arise with a choice of space for a device of such a design. It is necessary to take into account that it is necessary to ensure a free entrance to the hatch of the capacity of the assessing machine (the use of additional pipes when pumping usually costs additional money).

It is according to the above reasons, hermetic waste pits do not use much popular among homeowners, despite the fact that they are considered safer from the point of view of environmental protection.

Most effective way Devices of cesspools today are generally recognized as septicists. But this is a completely different design, and it can hardly be attributed to "classic" cesspools.