Filling the floor in an apartment: how to fill it yourself

When conducting overhaul The question: how to fill the floor in an apartment is very relevant. It is important not only to level the base for finishing, but also to carry out the work as efficiently as possible without unnecessary material and time costs.

Let's consider what materials can be used to fill the floor indoors and how to save money.

Carrying out work on your own

Before starting work, dismantle the old covering to the floor level

Possessing sufficient quantity free time, you can carry out all the work on arranging the floor yourself. Work begins with cleaning the old surface.

If there is a covering, it must be dismantled to the level of the floor slabs. Not only linoleum or laminate will have to be removed, everything will be removed, including the old screed or fill. This must also be done because pouring a new screed will “eat up” the height of the room by at least 5-10 cm.

Mix the solution in small portions

Having removed the old covering, we begin to fill the floor in the apartment. To do this, you need to perform the following work sequentially:

  • Surface primer. Used special solution deep penetration. It is necessary to treat a surface that is clean from dust and fine dirt. If there are cracks, it is better to fill them. The bottom of the walls also needs to be impregnated with soil solution. After drying, usually 2-3 hours, you can begin laying the thermal insulation.
  • Insulation. If you don’t install heated floors in your apartment, it’s still worth saving yourself from energy losses. Lay a layer of polystyrene foam, this will reduce heat loss significantly. Laying the slabs begins from the far corner of the room; the direction of laying does not matter. Lay the slabs without fixing, see which layout will result in less waste. Having decided on the cutting, secure the slabs with adhesive foam. The joints between the sheets and the entire perimeter must be glued.
  • We set up beacons. To do this, draw the zero level and, focusing on it, fix the aluminum profile on the piles of cement mortar. To avoid deviations, use a building level. Beacons are placed at a distance less than the length of the rule, by a quarter. The first line is laid out 30 cm from the wall. Don’t try to increase the distance; to be sure of the level, place beacons a little more often. After making sure that the horizon of the beacons is level, we leave the solution under them to harden.
  • We do the filling. Mix the solution in small portions, in this case it will be as mobile as possible when laying out and the quality of mixing will increase. The surface of the screed is passed with a needle roller to remove possible air bubbles and make it more durable.
  • The poured floor is covered with plastic film and left to harden.
  • Filling methods

    The process of pouring the floor in an apartment with your own hands is labor-intensive. Depending on what goals are set, it can be accomplished in various ways. In the case where there is a good rough screed, it will be enough to simply level the top layer with a special mixture.

    Conventionally, there are 3 filling methods:

  • Thin (up to 0.5 mm) finishing layer. For better adhesion, before such pouring, the rough screed must be treated with abrasive and impregnated with a primer. At the same time, the subfloor must be perfectly level. This type of filling does not require further coating.
  • Separate layer fill. The thickness of the screed is 2 cm. It can be laid on any type of surface, including plywood. The separating layer is made of oiled paper, laid overlapping or using waterproofing. In this way, the two layers of the floor become independent of each other. This is important when materials differ in physical properties and their reactions to humidity and temperature changes vary greatly.
  • Floating fill. This type of screed is carried out for the purpose of finishing work on the floors in the apartment. The thickness of the layer is at least 2.5 cm. Here, too, a layer of insulation is laid with allowances for the walls of 0.15 m. The perimeter is laid with damper tape. After the screed has dried and the finishing coating has been laid: laminate, parquet, linoleum, visible remains of the insulating material and tape are cut off.
  • Filling the floor begins from the far wall towards the exit

    Carrying out work using any method, pour starting from the far, opposite wall and moving towards the exit. Level the solution using the rule between the wall and the lighthouse. Do not lean on the weight of the beacons; they are used to set the level. Use the rule to move the mixture in a zigzag manner.

    Do not leave unleveled mortar on the floor; only after leveling the first batch, mix the second. Strictly observe the proportions of the solution. After finishing the work, remove all tools and close access to the room.

    Screeds of different solutions have different time maturation. The first setting occurs on the 3rd day, final readiness - after 3-4 weeks, depending on the room temperature. To learn how to properly concrete a floor, watch this video:

    Pouring materials

    Strictly observe the proportions of the solution

    Having decided how to fill the floor in the apartment, you should choose a solution for the screed. You can buy ready-made dry mixtures or knead them cement mortar on one's own.

    It is important not only to know how to properly fill the floor in an apartment, but also to understand what kind of solution it will be used for.

    The choice of materials is not great:

    MaterialAdvantagesDisadvantages

    Concrete mortar
    High wear resistance Resistant to mechanical damage Long service life Not afraid of water Economical Fast readiness time
    Heavy Requires finishing Difficult to prepare

    Cement-sand mixture
    High wear resistance Durability Economical
    Long drying timeRequires finishing

    Dry building mixtures
    Easy to prepare Durable Easy to apply
    CostAverage drying time

    Self-leveling floors
    Ideal surface Strength Wear resistance
    CostSignificant readiness period

    The instructions on the bags of formula are very clear. Mixing concrete yourself is quite difficult, since the proportions must be strictly observed.

    Mix M500 grade cement and fine sifted river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

    Self-leveling floors

    Self-leveling floors can be leveling or finishing

    Before you fill the floors in your apartment with your own hands, evaluate your financial capabilities. If the choice falls on mixtures for self-leveling floors, it is worth knowing that they are divided into leveling and finishing.

    The mixtures differ in composition and order of installation. When filling the bottom layer with a branded leveler, it is imperative to use the finishing layer of the same construction brand. Moreover, the latter type can be applied to any type of base.

    Self-leveling floors can decorate a room

    Features of the mixtures:

    • Levelers perform the function of a rough screed. They are applied along beacons, do not level themselves, and require work by rule. The layer thickness can reach 0.3 m;
    • finishing mixtures are used for final decoration. The layer is no thicker than 3 cm. They have good fluidity and do not need leveling. See this video for all the details of pouring self-leveling floors:

    Having chosen what and how to fill the floor in the apartment, remember: the base of the floor will affect the behavior of the entire renovation. There is no need to skimp on this type of work. Changing the screed is quite expensive. This process It won’t be possible to carry it out without ruining the repair as a whole, so follow the technology and, if you are not confident in your abilities, hire professionals.

    How to fill the floor in an apartment? How to fill a self-leveling floor:

    Recently, self-leveling floors have become increasingly popular. This is facilitated by the creation of new high-quality building materials. How to fill the floor in an apartment? The methods for doing this work vary, but they are all equally effective. It all depends on where they are made and what materials are used.

    Self-leveling flooring has gained particular popularity due to its versatility. Concrete screed can be installed in almost every room. It is used not only in houses and apartments. It is used in outbuildings, gazebos, verandas and terraces.

    No toxic materials are used in the construction of such floors, so they are completely safe for people. To create them, only cement mortar or special self-leveling mixtures are used. These floors are strong and durable. They are resistant to impact chemical substances, fungi, mold, pathogenic microorganisms.

    The concrete base is fire-safe because it does not react to high temperatures.

    Pouring the floor

    Long gone are the days when new floors were laid on old floors, regardless of the curvature and unevenness of the surface. Today, an increasing number of people are replacing them with liquid ones during apartment renovations. In this case, you have to screed the floor with concrete mixtures.

    If previously these works could only be performed by qualified builders, then with the advent of new mixtures even the most skilled builders can do them. ordinary people. Filling the floor with your own hands is not that difficult.

    To do this, you only need to know the basic basics of performing all stages of this operation. Filling the floor with cement mortar, called screed, is the main element of the preparatory work before performing the finishing coating.

    Therefore, many people who decide to carry out a major renovation often have the question of how to pour a concrete floor in an apartment.

    The technology itself construction work not particularly difficult. They are carried out after the walls of the room have been repaired.

    At this stage, many people immediately begin to think about how much it costs to fill the floor. As a rule, the price of this work is not too high, so you can hire builders. They certainly know how to pour a concrete floor.

    However, to save the family budget, you can do this yourself.

    Floor pouring stages

    How to fill floors in an apartment? This work is carried out in several stages. These include:

    Preparation of the base;

    Waterproofing device;

    Thermal insulation (as needed);

    Pouring concrete mixture;

    Using a self-leveling mixture (if you want to get a perfectly flat surface).

    Preparatory work

    Flooding the floors in a private house, as in an apartment, can only be done after removing the old coating (if any). The base under the screed must be clean. Any debris, dirt and dust are removed from it. Grease stains are removed using special solvents.

    Waterproofing device

    This stage of work is necessary when there are gaps in building structures. For waterproofing, special sealants, polyethylene film or special membranes are used. The simplest method of protecting the subfloor from moisture is treatment with hot bitumen.

    Waterproofing is also provided by primer compounds, which provide better adhesion of the leveling mixture to the base. These works must be carried out when installing a concrete screed in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.

    Moreover, the waterproofing layer should end on the walls of these rooms.

    What is needed to complete the work

    How to fill the floor in an apartment and what materials and tools are needed for this? To prepare the concrete mixture you will need cement, sand, fine gravel, and water. Self-leveling mixtures may also be needed.

    To install the floor you need special beacons. Leveling the surface of the screed is done using a rule (trowel) with a wide spatula. The evenness of the surface is checked with a water level.

    Installation of beacons

    Evenness depends on the correct installation of special guide beacons. cement screed. The floor is leveled using them. Beacons are installed along the room. In this case, the first of them retreats from the wall by 30 mm, and the rest - by 1 m from the previous one. Installed beacons are checked using a level.

    Choice of cement

    How to fill the floor in an apartment? What kind of cement should I use? To prepare the solution, high-quality building materials are required. To insulate an apartment or private house, a so-called cushion made of crushed stone, sand or expanded clay is often used. It serves as an excellent sound and heat insulating layer.

    Fill the floors with concrete mortar, prepared independently, or with a ready-made mixture purchased in a store. If you have extra funds, you can give preference to the second option. Otherwise, the solution will be much cheaper.

    The concrete mixture is poured between the beacons and smoothed using a rule that appearance very reminiscent of a wide mop.

    When leveling, vibrating (shaking) movements are used as a rule, which help the solution to be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the floor.

    Special mixtures for self-leveling floors include not only materials such as cement and sand, but also various plasticizers that improve the structure.

    Thanks to special additives, the plasticity of the mass and increased hardening speed are ensured. The finished mixture is diluted with water and then poured onto the base of the floor. This liquid mass is capable of filling the slightest cracks and irregularities.

    At the same time, it levels itself, creating an ideal horizontal level when drying.

    Expanded clay pillow

    A layer of special polyethylene film is placed on the base, providing waterproofing to the room. Before pouring the floor, concrete base pour a layer of fine expanded clay. If necessary, mineral mats made of basalt or fiberglass are used for insulation.

    After this, the floor is filled with concrete mixture, carefully leveling the surface along the beacons. If the floor screed is carried out on dry expanded clay, before pouring the floor, it is watered with cement laitance, which is a liquid solution. After it dries, they begin pouring the floor.

    In some cases, floor screed is made with a mixture made from cement, expanded clay, sand and water. It is more convenient to apply it in separate sections.

    Pouring the floor

    How to fill floors correctly? The prepared cement mixture is poured onto the floor, moving from the extreme corner of the room. Distribute the solution using a special smoothing board or wide spatula. This way you can control the thickness of the concrete layer.

    How to fill the floor in the house so that there are no flaws? To do this, you need to carefully fill any gaps with a spatula. This prevents the appearance of unevenness while the screed dries and shrinks. After 0.5 hours, experts advise wiping and finally leveling the surface. The poured floor will reach its final strength only after 28 days.

    It takes 3-5 days for the concrete layer to dry. This period depends on the air temperature and the thickness of the screed.

    Pouring the floor in a private house

    How to fill the floors in the house? To do this, it is necessary to prepare the base surface for basic filling. In this case, the top soil is removed to the planned depth. Then its surface is leveled as much as possible. Using a vibrating rammer, the soil is compacted with broken bricks or crushed stone.

    Waterproofing is laid on top of the soil. For this, roofing felt is most often used. You can also use special polyethylene film. This waterproofing is only suitable for those houses that are built on soils with deep groundwater. Expanded clay or foam boards are used as a thermal insulation layer.

    Then the restrictive slats are set. Start pouring the floor from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the door.

    To make the floor surface impact-resistant, it is necessary to use reinforced mesh or chain-link. They will also prevent the concrete layer from cracking when the soil moves.

    If you want to give the base of the floor maximum strength, you can use reinforcement or thick iron wire to strengthen it.

    The final stage of pouring the floor in a private house is a leveling layer made of cement diluted with water. It should have the consistency of liquid sour cream. It is applied on top of the concrete screed.

    It should spread over its surface, leveling out any errors in the base of the floor. If there are extra cash, you can replace it with a self-leveling mixture.

    It hardens much faster and creates a very even and smooth surface.

    Screed with self-leveling floor

    Recently, this method of pouring floors has gained wide popularity. In this case, a concrete screed is first made, and a special self-leveling mixture is used to remove its defects or irregularities. This method saves people from constantly leveling the surface of the concrete mixture with a rule (trowel).

    How to fill the floor in this case? The self-leveling floor mixture is diluted to the consistency of liquid sour cream with water. It is poured onto the concrete screed and stretched over its surface with a needle roller. These general recommendations give an answer to the question of how to fill a self-leveling floor. After the mixture has completely dried, the finishing coating begins.

    For this purpose, parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles or linoleum are used.

    Pouring concrete screed for heated floors

    Recently, concrete screeds have become increasingly used in the installation of heated floors (electric or water). In this case, the cement mixture is poured over the heating system laid out on the base.

    Then it is carefully leveled. Thus, by performing this screed, we ensure the reliable safety of all structural elements of the heating system installed in the floor.

    After the screed has dried, they begin laying the flooring.

    The self-leveling floor creates a smooth and even surface. In this case, it absolutely does not matter which of the existing technologies the builders use and what materials are used. Now, knowing how to fill the floor in an apartment, everyone can save on this construction work.

    Apartment renovations usually start with the floors, so a lot of questions arise. In this situation, it is important to do everything right. The question “how to fill the floor in an apartment” is very important, since usually the floor is not perfectly flat.

    A lot of people don't know how to do it correctly. First you need to get rid of the old coating, if any. After you get rid of it, you need to clean the base of the floor and remove all dust. The entire surface where the floor meets the walls must be covered with waterproofing mastic.

    It is important to pay attention to the joints, as well as the places where the pipes pass and all kinds of cracks. They pose the greatest risk of leaks.

    Speaking about how to fill the floor in an apartment, it should be noted that after you have treated everything with mastic, you need to lay rolled isoplast, which gives more reliable protection, as well as providing waterproofing of floors. Only after this can you begin further work.

    If we talk about how to properly pour concrete floors, it is worth noting that at the next stage you will need to install beacons that correspond to the level of the future floor.

    This is done using a special profile that hardly bends, allowing for a flat surface.

    You need to place cut squares of drywall under it to get the required height, and then you can grab it with plaster, which will allow you to fix the beacons.

    Once the installation of these elements is complete, it will be clear to see what level the floor will rise to, as well as how much space you need to fill. If the rise in floor level is more than 5 centimeters, it is recommended to add expanded clay. This is done so that there is not too much load on the ceiling; in addition, it perfectly absorbs moisture.

    When considering the question “how to pour a floor in an apartment,” it must be said that you can then begin working directly with cement, but before that the surface needs to be primed.

    The solution is made from dry cement mixture, which is quite possible to buy at construction market In your city. First, the subfloor is poured, which must dry thoroughly before you begin the rest of the work.

    You can walk on a fresh screed within 24 hours, but it is still too early to lay down the covering.

    Now we can consider the question of how to fill the self-leveling floor? When the rough screed is completely dry, you can begin pouring the self-leveling solution. The floor should dry thoroughly again. After this, the ideal surface will be ready, and then you can lay any covering you like on it: laminate, linoleum, parquet board, ceramic tiles or something else.

    Now that you know how to fill the floor in an apartment, you can do it yourself. Then you can begin the rest of the work in the room. It is important to remember that when purchasing various building materials, you need to look at their shelf life, since many dry mixtures have very limited shelf life.

    How to fill the floors in an apartment with your own hands

    Floor screeding is necessary for several reasons: before installing the finishing coating, when creating a “warm floor” system, when laying insulating materials. Find out how to fill the floors in your apartment yourself from our article.

    How to fill the floors in an apartment with your own hands - the preparatory stage

    Any construction and renovation work begin with preparing work surfaces. In the case of the floor preparatory work will include the following actions:

    • The old covering, if any, is removed from the floor.
    • Then the surface is swept, all debris is collected, dust is wiped off and dirt is washed off.
    • Grease stains are removed with solvent compounds.
    • Then the floor is covered with a layer of primer, which will improve the adhesion of the materials used. If the working base is too dry or porous, then it is primed 2 times. The primer must dry before continuing work.

    How to fill the floors in an apartment with your own hands - waterproofing the floor

    After preparatory work, it is advisable to waterproof the floor. For this purpose, polymer, bitumen, mineral or mixed compositions are used. There are different types of materials for waterproofing:

    • Roll or film are multilayer membranes that perform both hydro- and thermal insulating functions.
    • Mastic is a kind of adhesive mixture based on resins, rubber or polymers. They are good because they don’t leave any gaps anywhere and fill all the cavities.
    • Liquid - after hardening, cover the base with a durable waterproof film.
    • Powdered - they are a mixture of plasticizers and astringent ingredients that must be diluted with water in accordance with the instructions.

    Waterproofing the floor is especially necessary if work is carried out in a bathroom or toilet, if there are significant cracks and gaps at the junctions of walls and floors or near communications.

    When waterproofing, you can immediately install thermal insulation of the floor by laying a layer of appropriate material: mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay.

    The screed is poured strictly horizontally, for which the horizontality is first determined using a laser or water level. Here's how it's done:

    • From the bottom level of the door upward, measure 1 m upward and make a mark there.
    • A line corresponding to this mark is drawn along all the walls of the room. To ensure that the line is parallel everywhere, it is checked with a level.
    • A second line is drawn down from the first line at a distance of 1 m.
    • Nails are driven in the corners of the room at the level of the bottom mark and a cord is pulled between them.

    Markings painted on the walls will help place beacons. As beacons you can use sections of metal profiles or wooden slats. They are placed on edge, maintaining a distance less than the length of the rule for leveling the cement mortar.

    How to fill the floors in an apartment with your own hands - preparing and pouring the solution

    The mixture for preparing the solution can be purchased ready-made or made by yourself.

    If the room area is small, then some people prefer not to save money and buy the composition ready-made.

    Well, those who want to save money or perform a large amount of work choose the independent cooking option. The cement-sand mortar is made as follows:

    • Water and perlite are mixed in a ratio of 2:4.
    • Then 1 part of cement and another 1 part of water are added to this composition.
    • The mass is thoroughly stirred again and 2 parts of sand are added. Then add another 5 parts of water and stir again to a plastic consistency.

    Pour the solution in the following way:

    • It is laid out in parts between the beacons and leveled using a construction rule that looks like a mop. If such a rule is not at hand, use a plaster trowel or a very wide spatula instead.
    • When leveling the solution, vibrating movements are carried out so that the composition fills all the cavities and air bubbles come out of it.
    • If expanded clay is placed under the screed as insulation, then before pouring the solution, it is watered with cement milk - a very liquid mixture of cement and water.
    • In some cases, expanded clay is added directly to the cement mortar.

    Sometimes floors are filled not with cement mortar, but with special plastic mixtures that are sold ready-made. Such self-leveling floors are stronger and more durable.

    Purchased at powder form the composition is diluted with water, a fairly liquid mixture is obtained, which is poured using the same technology.

    As a rule, the self-leveling floor is more even due to the fact that liquid composition spreads better over the surface.

    Preparing the base - how to fill the floor in the apartment - Floor School

    Floors that are a flat and smooth surface are always pleasing to the eye, because various types of covering can be successfully laid on them: linoleum, laminate or parquet. The smoothness of the floors is primarily determined by how correctly the pouring is done, and the first question is what to fill the floor with in the apartment.

    Photo of a well-flooded floor in an apartment

    Materials for creating a flat floor

    When determining the material for pouring the floor, they are primarily based on how simply and quickly the screed is made and on the cost of pouring the floor in the apartment.

    Making a concrete floor screed

    This reliable material, which has good wear resistance and is used quite widely, including in residential areas. Among other advantages, such a coating is resistant to mechanical damage, resistant to moisture, and has a long service life.

    This coating has a low price and short filling times. Once the floor is poured with concrete, the room is used earlier than with other pouring methods.

  • Cement-sand mortar.
  • Carrying out a cement-sand floor screed

    This solution has high wear resistance and durability. But the only drawback is the long drying time of such a fill.

    Example of building mixtures for pouring a floor

    Modern dry screed mixtures include many components; they have excellent performance qualities. The solution from them is made quite simply; its application does not require effort or special equipment. This coating has great durability, high resistance to mechanical stress, excellent reliability and fairly quick drying.

    Pouring the floor with self-leveling mixtures

    Self-leveling floors have a perfectly flat surface due to the fact that they contain special liquid ingredients. The basis of this mixture is cement, so this floor is durable and wear-resistant. Such mixtures are environmentally friendly, non-toxic and absolutely harmless.

    We fill the floor in the apartment

    When deciding for yourself the question of what to fill the floors in the apartment with, it is important to understand that the result comes first: a flat and smooth surface. And in order to obtain this result, the sequence of actions to perform these works must be followed.

    It must be said that no matter what material is chosen for filling the floor, the installation instructions look almost the same. Only the method of preparing the working solution will be different.

    Preparing the surface

  • Filling the floor in an apartment with your own hands begins with thoroughly cleaning the surface. All construction debris and any contamination are removed.

    The base of the floor is swept, after spraying water to prevent dust from rising.

  • If there are cracks, chips or voids in the ceilings, they are sealed with cement-sand mortar.

    If necessary, small crushed stone or fine expanded clay is added.

  • Repairing cracks in the floor

  • The surface is treated with special waterproofing mixtures, which dry very quickly.
  • Cover with waterproofing solution

  • The location that is the highest place on the surface is determined. Most often it is located in a corner, or near a wall. Using a water level, marks are placed along the entire perimeter of the room at a level of one meter from the floor surface.
  • Then the distance from the floor to these marks is measured. And where the distance is smallest, the point on the floor will be the highest and the screed above it will be the thinnest.

  • If the height difference is large, more than 4 cm, it is worth thinking about the mortar material, especially if the apartment is located above the first floor or there is some kind of basement under the apartment.
  • The fact is that the resulting screed can have a large mass, but you need to take into account that the floor slab can withstand a load, which is the number of voids in this slab, expressed in tons. For example, if there are five voids in a slab, then it can support 5 tons. Therefore, special “light mortars” or lightweight polystyrene concrete should be used.

    We display beacons

    This is what floor beacons look like

    Beacons are guiding elements. With their help, the solution is correctly and evenly distributed over the entire surface. Therefore they must be displayed very carefully.

    The procedure is as follows:

    • We already have labels that are on the same horizontal level. We measure down the distance from them, a couple of centimeters less than the distance to the highest point of the surface and set new marks.

    Determining the floor fill level

    • Using a simple two-meter level, beacons are correctly set, which can serve as metal pipe, with a diameter of 3 cm. There are also specially made T-shaped beacons.
    • Beacons should not be located directly next to walls. The distance from them should be about 10 cm.
    • The orientation of the beacons relative to the horizon should be checked using a laser level, which has a high degree of accuracy. To prevent the beacons from moving, they are fixed with a solution.

    Beacons installed on the solution

    Making the fill

    In order for a solution to be of high quality, its components must be correctly calculated and, accordingly, the proportions must be accurately observed. In this case, it is easier to use ready-made mixtures, since the required proportions have already been met; it is important to add water correctly.

    The solution is thoroughly mixed until homogeneous; its consistency should resemble sour cream. Filling begins from the corner farthest from the entrance. Using the rule, the resulting surface is smoothed by pulling the rule along the beacons, and it must touch two beacons at once.

    If you plan to clean the beacons, then this should be done on time, when the solution has not completely hardened. Their place is cleaned and filled with the same solution and leveled with a spatula.

    The drying time of the solution ranges from 9 to 30 days. After this, the surface is ready for laying finishing floors.

    This is what the floor looks like after a high-quality pour

    Conclusion

    Thus, the answer to the question of how much it costs to fill the floors in an apartment depends on what is being poured with and this largely determines the quality of the finished result. There is enough information on this issue on our portal, and you can also watch the video in this article.

    Video instructions for filling the floor in an apartment with your own hands

    Outdated floor leveling schemes required high costs time and effort. It is with the aim of minimizing such costs and facilitating the filling of the surface that self-leveling floors were invented.

    Today there is an abundance of different compositions on sale to create a perfectly flat, durable, monolithic floor surface in the shortest possible time. At the same time, the tightness of the coating due to the absence of seams is quite high.

    You can do the work of pouring a self-leveling floor in an apartment yourself. If you decide to make just this version of the subfloor, then in our article you will find useful information about the filling methods, what materials will be needed, and their cost.

    To make it easier for you to correctly complete the work of making a subfloor yourself, we offer detailed video instructions.

    Features of self-leveling floor

    The technology for applying self-leveling flooring involves the use of a leveling mass

    In numerous photos on the Internet you can see how beautiful self-leveling floors look.

    However, it was a mistake to classify plastic levelers with cement as self-leveling mixtures for making rough screeds. The thickness of the leveling layer using such compositions can be in the range of 1-30 cm.

    However, no one dares to do the indicated 30 cm because of the high cost of the mixture.

    So why is a self-leveling subfloor better than a traditional base made of concrete along the beacons? Despite the fact that the base and manufacturers of these compositions may be the same, in terms of purpose and installation methods these are mainly different products.

    Rough self-leveling mixtures differ from concrete floors in their plasticity and spreadability. Moreover, the levelers mentioned above are also applied to the floor along the beacons.

    While self-leveling floors themselves spread and level under the influence of gravity.

    In principle, the technology for applying self-leveling floors involves the use of a leveling mass, which is the finishing compositions used for the final leveling of the floor, so they should be classified as self-leveling floors. The thickness of such a layer can be 2-25 mm.

    These mixtures should not be used for rough leveling of substrates with significant unevenness (if you find out how much such a composition costs, you will understand why it is not used for rough leveling).

    Since such a mixture contains plasticizers, and the composition itself is a liquid consistency, it spontaneously forms a perfectly smooth surface without the use of rules and beacons.

    The advantages of a rough self-leveling floor include the following:

    • The work can be done much faster and with less labor, and the result will be much better.
    • You can make such a floor in an apartment with your own hands in a short time.
    • This floor is easy to maintain.
    • The surface is hygienic due to the absence of seams where bacteria like to multiply.
    • High compressive strength, durability, reliability and wear resistance.

    Functions of self-leveling subfloor

    Plastic levelers are used to fill the floor

    Plastic levelers are used to fill the base subfloor. This base can be used for finishing polymer coating and other types of floor facing products. In principle, if you decide to lay linoleum or laminate, then it is not necessary to make a self-leveling subfloor.

    In this case, you can use a traditional cement-sand screed. But it is better to use a rough self-leveling floor under the finishing polymer coating. Although the price of such a base is higher, these materials work much better in pairs and are highly compatible.

    In addition, the polymerization of the rough filling composition takes place 4 times faster than the hardening of a traditional cement-sand screed.

    Outdated levelers have a thicker consistency, so they cannot spread on their own under the influence of gravity. Before applying such a leveler, beacons must be installed in the apartment.

    The technology for applying mixtures for automatic filling does not imply the use of beacons. The thing is that such mixtures lose their plasticity and begin to harden after 15-20 minutes. after pouring, so level them traditional way It won't work with beacons.

    In this case, it is correct to use tripod beacons to control the thickness of the floor and the height of the filling layer. After completing the work of pouring the floors, these tripods are simply removed, and the holes from them are themselves tightened with mortar.

    Since the thermal insulation qualities of traditional subfloors and self-leveling floors do not differ, the same materials are used to increase the thermal insulation of the surface. For example, such a floor can be insulated with polystyrene foam or by organizing a heated system.

    Self-leveling floors can be used for the following purposes:

    • Leveling the surface for any type of installation flooring. The self-leveling composition allows you to eliminate minor unevenness in concrete bases, cement-sand screeds, floors insulated with foam plastic, and other bases.
    • Rough self-leveling floors will be needed to install a decorative polymer self-leveling floor. These are mixtures that may already be colored by the manufacturer or painted after pouring. Such decorative floors can have a 3D effect (in the photo online you can see how beautiful and unusual such surfaces look in an apartment). It’s just quite difficult to make such a finishing floor with your own hands.

    Composition: why do you need to know?

    To install a self-leveling floor, you should know the composition of the leveler

    If you are doing the work of installing a rough self-leveling floor with your own hands, you should know the composition of the leveler, which usually includes the following components:

    • the binder can be cement or gypsum, as well as a combination of these substances with the addition of polymer additives;
    • sand or limestone chips act as fillers (the size of the filler fraction cannot exceed 0.5 mm in self-leveling compositions);
    • modifiers are components that are added to the mixture to increase plasticity, spreadability and improve adhesion to the base.

    If you are going to do the pouring work yourself, then when choosing a mixture you should pay attention not only to how much it costs, but also to its composition. This determines which room in the apartment you are going to install the floor in:

  • Rough self-leveling floors based on cement binder are suitable for pouring in areas with high level humidity (in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet, shower, etc.).
  • Mixtures based on gypsum binder are laid in living rooms.
  • Device methods

    How does a self-leveling floor work?

    You can make a self-leveling subfloor in an apartment with your own hands in several ways:

  • Thin-layer self-leveling floor. The thickness of such a coating cannot exceed 0.5 mm. Before performing filling work, the base is treated with coarse emery to improve adhesion. After this, the surface is primed and the screed is poured.
  • Rough self-leveling floor on a separating layer. This floor is made according to wooden bases or on floors with foam insulation. As a separating layer between wooden surface, foam plastic and self-leveling flooring, oiled paper or waterproofing impregnation is used.
  • The floating floor is installed on a concrete base or cement-sand screed. In this case, such a base will draw moisture from the subfloor, causing the formation of sinkholes and unwanted defects. To do this, a polyethylene film is placed on the base. There is a slight overlap of adjacent strips of material. Also in this case, a damper tape must be used, which is laid along the bottom of the walls around the perimeter of the room. This will protect the floor from deformation and increase its sound insulation.
  • Sequence of installation of a rough self-leveling floor

    Sequence of work on installing a self-leveling floor

    Self-leveling flooring can only be done in a draft-free room. Also, do not ventilate the room while the work is being done. The air temperature in the room should be within 5-20°C, humidity around 60%.

    The work is carried out in this order:

  • After thorough preparation of the base, prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging. Since the composition hardens very quickly, it is better to work with an assistant.
  • Now the entrance to the room where the work will be carried out should be fenced off near the floor with a lath or board. They do the same thing if they want to fill the floor in a large room - they divide the surface into separate squares for work (it all depends on how much work you can do in a day).
  • Pour the prepared composition onto the floor in strips, starting from the wall opposite the entrance to the room.
  • Without taking breaks between pours, pour out the next portion of the solution and level it with a spatula. We carry out the work in this way until the entire floor surface in the room is covered with the composition.
  • To remove air bubbles from the screed, treat the surface with a needle roller. To move freely around the room, we wear shoes with spikes on the soles.
  • To ripen the screed, cover the surface with plastic film and wait for the time specified in the instructions.
  • If you want to know how much it costs for hired craftsmen to fill a floor, then its cost is in the range of $4-10, provided that the layer height is no more than 5 cm.

    Video instructions for pouring self-leveling floor:

    Any major renovation, as well as interior decoration new housing, cannot do without leveling the floors in the apartment. A smooth surface is a prerequisite for successful exterior finishing using tiles, laminate, parquet and other coatings. Correct installation depends on the degree of leveling of the horizontal surface. door frames and the absence of distortions when installing the doors themselves, as well as windows and other elements of the apartment layout.

    Leveling the floor is solved by carrying out a rough screed and finishing pouring, which is carried out using special building mixtures and independently prepared compositions. In this case, the following tasks are additionally solved:

    • communications are closed: heating, electrical and others;
    • maximum thermal insulation and waterproofing is achieved;
    • the base of the floor is strengthened;
    • obtain the necessary room height parameters.

    Before you start pouring, you need to prepare the surface of the rough base. To do this, it is freed from garbage, various contaminants and dust - this is if the pouring is carried out on a concrete floor base in a new apartment.

    When overhauling an old apartment, the previous coating is additionally removed and grease contamination is removed using degreasers. In the case of wooden floors, the old boards are dismantled and the joists are removed. To do this, they are first sawed circular saw and then removed. It is most convenient to use a crowbar. The old parquet board is dismantled using a chisel and a hammer, and the roofing felt backing is also removed. After release, the surface is carefully inspected and all cracks, voids and protrusions are eliminated.

    Non-shrink cement is used to fill cracks, holes and voids.

    Then install single zero level at a height of 1.5 meters from the floor for all apartment premises. To do this, use a building level (preferably a laser level). Marks of this height are placed at random points on all walls. The elevation points are then connected using straight horizontal lines. They will serve as a guide to the zero level of the apartment.

    A protective roofing felt tape is attached to the bottom of the walls, serving as waterproofing. In this case, its upper edge should be approximately 15 cm above the level of the future screed.

    To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

    • building level (laser);
    • drill for stirring the mixture;
    • rule;
    • hammer, pliers, chisel for dismantling the old coating;
    • hacksaw or circular saw;
    • container for preparing the mixture;
    • trowel;
    • shovel;
    • brush.

    Pouring concrete

    To carry out the work you need to prepare materials:

    • components for preparing the solution: cement, sand, water. A ready-made dry mixture can also be used;
    • additional devices for pouring: T-shaped guides, rules, trowel or trowel.

    The concrete pouring process should take place in the following order:

    1. Fastening T-shaped guides that act as beacons.
    2. Preparation of the solution.
    3. Pouring the mixture.
    4. Drying.

    Installation of beacons

    Correct installation guiding beacons plays a big role in the success of the entire work. The beacons are metal T-shaped bars, which are secured with cement or gypsum mortar. To do this, the solution is laid out in small portions along the lines of laying the beacons.

    The starting guide should be placed at a distance at least 20 centimeters from the walls. The remaining beacons are placed parallel to the first guide. The width between them should be by 0.3-0.4 meters less than the length of the working base of the rule. The beacons laid on the solution are leveled using a level. This must be done along the length of the guides and between all beacons. All guide beacons must be located at the same level. Once this is confirmed, they are left to allow the fastening solution to dry completely.

    Preparation of the solution

    A standard cement-based floor mortar is prepared in a special container convenient for stirring the mixture, for example, in a tray. Typically, cement grades are used for screeding M-400, M-300. It all depends on the operating conditions of the future floor. Additionally, clean river sand without clay admixture is taken, since it affects the quality of adhesion of the mixture components.

    The solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3, where three parts of sand are taken to one part of cement.

    This ratio is suitable for rooms with increased load. For living rooms where the load is insignificant, you can prepare a solution in a ratio of 1:4. Sometimes a plasticizer is added to it to increase plasticity. Ready-made building mixtures already contain additional components that enhance the density of the cement mixture and increase its plasticity. They have a standard proportion of main components.

    When preparing the solution yourself manually, use a tray. Water is poured into it, and the dry components of the cement mixture are gradually poured in. For 50 kg of cement take 15 liters of water. Mixing is carried out using a drill on which a special nozzle. Additionally, a shovel is used, with which the dry mixture is separated from the walls and corners of the pallet.

    Pouring the mixture

    After preparing the solution and drying the beacon mounts, begin pouring. The finished solution is poured into the space between two adjacent beacons.

    Work begins from the far wall of the room. The poured solution is leveled using a rule, moving along the guides towards you. In this way, the entire space of the room is filled. It is recommended that two people work together to avoid downtime. When pouring is carried out by one worker, the second one at this time prepares the next amount of the mixture.

    Drying

    The quality of the screed largely depends on the hardening conditions of the poured mortar. Complete drying usually occurs in 25-28 days. To prevent rapid drying, which can lead to the formation of cracks, the surface of the screed must be moistened several times a day for a two-week period. This can be done with a brush. To simplify the work, you can cover the surface with film.

    Pouring a floor with concrete is a classic way to level its surface and has its advantages. Concrete screed:

    • provides a smooth surface, as it fills all defective areas;
    • durable;
    • withstands significant loads.

    This type of filling also has its disadvantages:

    • long drying time;
    • the impossibility of correcting errors after the solution has completely set. This will require dismantling the incorrectly laid section;
    • If the waterproofing is of poor quality, it may collapse from moisture or become moldy.

    All the work of this method is discussed in detail in the following video:

    Pouring mortar with expanded clay

    The screed can also be made using expanded clay chips. The expanded clay layer can be a soundproofing material and also reduce the load on the base, since it has little weight.

    Expanded clay is made by sintering special types of clay. During the production process, round or oval-shaped granules are obtained from it. Larger fractions are called gravel, and its crushed irregular shape is called crushed stone.

    Filling in this case is carried out in two ways:

    • The solution is poured onto a previously laid dry expanded clay layer.
    • The cement mortar is laid in two layers, the bottom of which contains expanded clay.

    In the first method, a dry layer of expanded clay is filled with a solution (cement milk) prepared only using cement powder and water. After it dries, the base mixture based on sand and cement is laid on top.

    The screed manufacturing process is as follows:

    1. After cleaning the base from debris and securing the beacons, dry expanded clay of a fine fraction is poured onto it.
    2. The surface of the expanded clay layer is leveled at a level of 20-25 mm below the plane of the screed being created using a building level.
    3. To fix the layer, liquid cement mortar is poured onto it, which dries for 24 hours.
    4. The dried surface is covered with the prepared cement-sand mixture and leveled.
    5. After two days, the beacons are carefully removed, and the resulting grooves are also filled with the main mixture.


    The second method involves performing expanded clay screed in two stages:

    1. First, a mixture is prepared with expanded clay chips, which are poured into a tray and filled with water.
    2. After the expanded clay is wet, cement and sand are added to the bath in accordance with the proportions and everything is thoroughly mixed using a mixer.
    3. The resulting thick mixture is applied to the surface of the base and leveled at a level of 20-25 mm to the floor plane.
    4. The top layer of cement-sand mixture is laid immediately on top of the expanded clay composition, without waiting for it to dry.

    Laying such a screed is carried out in strips 60-70 cm wide, first lay a solution with expanded clay, a regular solution on top of it, then move on to the next strip. The final sand-cement layer is carefully leveled at the end of the work.

    You can clearly see the procedure in the following video:

    Pouring self-leveling floor

    Sometimes, to level the floor surface, instead of a cement-sand composition, ready-made mixtures containing various additives are used that improve the strength and ductility of the screed. Such mixtures are stirred with water until liquid. The consistency of the solution should be more liquid than the classic cement-sand mixture. After pouring, the liquid solution, according to the laws of physics, spreads strictly in a horizontal plane and, after hardening, forms a perfectly smooth horizontal surface.

    Before pouring the liquid mixture, the base surface is primed. For this, it is better to use a material based on polyurethane or epoxy resin. This increases the adhesion of the self-leveling screed to the surface of the base.

    Step-by-step instruction The work is described in detail in the following video:

    Which option is better to choose?

    When determining how to fill the floor surface in an apartment, you must be guided primarily by the goals of such work:

    • If, in addition to leveling, it is necessary to hide communications, strengthen the main floor or raise the floor level, you need to use a regular cement-sand screed.
    • For insulation, creating a lightweight version of the screed and saving material, it is better to use expanded clay filling.
    • If it is necessary to create a perfectly smooth surface, which is better for subsequent finishing, for example, with linoleum, laminate or other coatings, the floor should be filled using self-leveling mixtures.

    In contact with

    During a major renovation, the flooring is usually changed, which requires perfect evenness. In most cases, floors have to be leveled. This is done using a concrete screed, or using self-leveling mixtures. Pouring begins after all communications have been laid; work is carried out in several stages: first, prepare work surface, then arrange a waterproofing layer, markings and fill the base. Next, the selected flooring material is laid and the baseboards are installed. Finally, the room is finished. It is better to act one by one in each room, this will make the process easier.

      Show all

      Is there a need to level the floor?

      Laying the final floor covering in the form of laminate, ceramic tiles, parquet and other materials require a perfectly flat base. Level the surface using self-leveling mixtures or cement screed. Concreting is also required in the following cases:

      • when installing thermal insulation;
      • when creating a heated floor: water or electric;
      • when repairing old concrete covering, which is the main one: in the garage, barn, on the balcony, terrace and loggia.

      Work on filling the floor in an apartment is carried out in several stages:

      1. 1. Surface preparation.
      2. 2. Installation of hydro- and thermal insulation.
      3. 3. Floor markings.
      4. 4. Filling with concrete or self-leveling mixtures.

      What tools are needed?

      To make a quality fill, you need to prepare the appropriate tool:

      • beacons (slats, aluminum profiles, steel pipes);
      • roulette;
      • stationery knife;
      • building level;
      • regular and needle rollers;
      • drill;
      • rule;
      • spatulas;
      • fastening material;
      • metal brush;
      • brushes

      Aluminum T-shaped profiles are purchased at the store as beacons. After the solution hardens, they are left in the coating. Aluminum is a lightweight material, and the weight of the floor will not increase much. For beacons, you can also take steel pipes with a diameter of 7 cm. They do not bend or move during installation, so with their help you will get a perfectly flat surface. When the screed has almost hardened, the pipes are pulled out so that there are no metal elements in the floor that can rust. They can be used again.

      Surface preparation - where to start?

      First, the old covering is dismantled, the baseboard and doors are removed. Clean the floor with a wire brush or sanding machine. Then remove dirt, debris, glue residues and dust. If greasy stains are found on the surface, they are removed using special means or soap solution.

      Next, evaluate the condition of the subfloor. Any minor cracks and crevices found are filled with putty using products containing resin, an adhesive composition or a cement-sand mortar. Defects that are too large are first covered with expanded clay or fine crushed stone. To increase adhesion, the subfloor is treated with Concrete Contact.

      To make the base stronger and to improve adhesion, it is necessary to create a rough surface. To do this, use any universal primer. In small rooms it is applied with a brush; in large rooms, rollers are used for the central part, and paint brushes are used in corners and hard-to-reach places. After applying the primer layer, wait until it dries completely. It takes about two hours.

      If the surface is porous and dry, then repeat the primer treatment. Before applying a new layer, you should wait until the previous one has completely dried. If during leveling you have to make several layers of screed, then a primer must be applied to each one. When pouring onto the ground, reinforcement, a special steel mesh or fibrous material fibrin, which is plastic or metal, is used. It is added to the solution used to level the base. At this stage, the wiring and heated floors are installed.

      Waterproofing device - choosing an option

      A waterproofing layer is needed if there are large gaps in places where the walls adjoin the ceilings, especially in panel houses where water, sewer and heating pipes pass. You cannot do without it in rooms with high humidity: bathroom, bathhouse, etc. Its type depends on the main water-repellent substance in the waterproofing composition. It can be bitumen, polymer, based on mineral components, bitumen-polymer.

      Waterproofing materials are available in various forms:

      • Film and roll, which are polymer membranes in several layers that combine hydro- and thermal insulation properties.
      • Mastics are plastic adhesive compositions based on polymers, liquid rubber, and resins. They create a thin waterproof layer.
      • Materials in a liquid state, differing in the degree of viscosity. They penetrate well into pores. Provide waterproofing thanks to a thin water-repellent film.
      • Powders. The basis is made up of binders and plasticizers. For use, dry mixtures are diluted with water according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

      It is easier and cheaper to seal using hot bitumen. The function of a waterproofing agent can be performed by primers based on epoxy resins. The surface is primed for better adhesion.

      In damp rooms, the waterproofing layer must be done in mandatory with access to the walls to a height exceeding the floor level. After completing the screed, the protruding waterproofing is cut off. If there is a need for insulation, then install a heat insulator - mineral wool based on fiberglass or basalt, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay gravel.

      Floor marking with beacons

      After the waterproofing layer is completely ready, you can begin the main steps. To make the base even, you need to mark the room, determine the horizontal level of the floor, install beacons and apply drawings on the walls. The work is carried out using a building level. Marks are placed on the walls so that beacons can be placed on them.

      First, determine the highest point of the room. From practical experience we know that you usually need to look for it in the corner of the room or under one of the walls. Using a level, marks are placed on the walls at a distance of 1 m from the floor. Then the distance from the marking to the base of the floor is measured, where it is smaller is the highest point. As beacons you can use aluminum profiles, slats made of wood or metal mounted on an edge, or steel pipes. In order not to align each batten, cords or ropes are pulled from the wall marks perpendicular to the beacons.

      When screeding in rooms with high humidity, you need to take into account that the floor level must be below the threshold in case of emergencies: rupture of heating pipes, water supply, or clogged sewer system.

      Beacons are installed on a gypsum solution, placing pieces of foam plastic, drywall or concrete to level the horizontal. Gypsum hardens quickly, so it should not be diluted in large quantities. You can use a cement-sand solution, but it takes a long time to set, and work is continued only after it has completely dried.

      Check the horizontality of the aligned slats using a laser level. Thermal insulation material laid between the beacons, since if you put insulation on top, it is almost impossible to install the slats exactly horizontally. If the horizontal position is not maintained, the surface will not be level. The step between the slats must exceed the length of the rule with which the mixture is leveled. The distance from the outer lighthouse to the wall should not be more than 10 cm.

      Before pouring the floors, you need to find out what the height differences are in the room. If they are more than 4 cm, then choose a starting floor leveler, taking into account the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the thickness of the layer. If there are significant differences, take solutions with a small weight and fill them several times. Typically, materials with an expanded clay base are best suited for these purposes.

      Pouring concrete screed - 3 stages

      The base is prepared, you can screed. The work is carried out in stages:

      1. 1. Preparation of the solution.
      2. 2. Filling and leveling the mixture.
      3. 3. Freezing.

      For speed and convenience, it is advisable to have an assistant, since cement mortar and mixtures harden quickly. If you do not manage to level it in time, it will be difficult to correct it in the future.

      Preparation of the solution

      For small volumes, using dry mixes from the store is beneficial. They are diluted with water according to the instructions on the package. The solution should be prepared in parts, since over time it loses its plasticity. When kneading, make sure that the consistency is uniform.

      For large areas, it is more economical to make cement-sand or concrete mortar with your own hands:

      1. 1. Take 4 parts perlite to 2 parts water and mix.
      2. 2. Add one portion of water and one portion of cement to the resulting mixture. Stir thoroughly again. The solution must have a homogeneous structure.
      3. 3. Next, pour two parts of sand and dilute with water (5 times more volume). The solution is kneaded until it becomes plastic.

      Sand concrete cement screed is advantageous to use on the first floors of private houses and apartments.

      Pouring technology

      It is advisable to do the screed within one day, then the coating will be uniform in structure. They start working from the corner that is located farthest from the doors. The solution is spread between the beacons using a rule reminiscent of a mop, then the surface is leveled. If there is no rule, it can be replaced with a plaster floor or spatula, the size is slightly larger than the distance between the slats.

      The rule or grater is moved so that it touches at least two beacons. When leveling the solution, you need to make vibrating, shaking movements to evenly distribute the mixture. At the same time, make sure that it fills all the pores and crevices. A needle roller will help remove air from the solution and avoid voids. Quality is checked by the absence of defects on the working side of the rule. The self-leveling floor is obtained without flaws, since the liquid is evenly distributed over the surface.

      Solidification of the solution

      The cement-sand mortar sets within an hour. The instructions for the self-leveling mixture indicate the drying time, but it should be taken into account that it also depends on the level of humidity and air temperature in the room. While everything is freezing, it is necessary to dismantle the steel pipes that served as beacons. The voids formed after this are filled with the solution that was used to fill the floor. It is more convenient to level the surface with a wide spatula, in the corners - with a narrow one. While the screed is drying, there should be no drafts in the room!

      If the subfloor was filled with a starting leveler, then it is covered with a finishing mortar on top. It differs from the first one in that the layer goes on smoothly and does not require sanding. If there are no significant differences in height on the rough base, it is enough to fill the floor with a finishing leveler.

      Floor care after pouring

      When the screed is completed, additional care is needed. It is important to avoid temperature changes, drafts, and direct sunlight. The poured solution is periodically moistened or covered with a film to prevent cracks from forming on the surface. It takes no more than two days to harden. To check that everything has set well, step lightly on the coating. After this there should be no signs of pressing.

      When the screed is completely dry, you need to evaluate the quality of the surface. If there are small defects on it, you can fill the floor with a thin layer of self-leveling mixture or remove them using grinder. In order for the base to be perfectly level, it is important to prepare it correctly and follow the recommendations of specialists on the use of the solution.

      If self-leveling mixtures were used for filling, then the floor is ready for use in 6-12 hours. But you shouldn’t immediately lay the finishing flooring or place furniture. For maximum loads, at least 2-3 days should pass. It is better to lay laminate, linoleum, boards and other materials within a week.

    Today, all repair work in an apartment can be done with your own hands. With modern building materials the work is quite simple. In addition, you do not need to have special skills. One of the basic construction works is pouring the floor.

    Previously, the floor was leveled using a cement-sand screed. But it is quite difficult to work with such a solution, and only an experienced specialist can mix the solution with the required consistency. Now there are self-leveling mixtures on sale that can be used to create a perfectly flat floor.

    You should start pouring the floors in the apartment after the work on the walls and ceiling has been completed and all communications have been laid. After pouring the floor, the flooring is laid, wallpaper is applied, and plinth and molding are installed. Do not pour floors throughout the entire room at the same time. Work must be carried out in each room separately. This will make repairs much easier.

    Tool preparation

    First of all, you need to prepare a tool, without which you won’t be able to fill the base yourself. Namely:

    • lighthouses;
    • building level;
    • tape measure (preferably 8 meter), pencil, construction knife;
    • several spatulas;
    • several rollers of different sizes;
    • rule;
    • drill with a special attachment;
    • Master OK;
    • construction gloves, screwdrivers and keys, self-tapping screws.

    Construction stores sell T-shaped profiles that can be used as beacons. They are made of aluminum, which is a fairly ductile metal. Therefore, during delivery you need to ensure that the profiles do not break or bend. It is quite difficult to work with such material.

    After the solution has dried, the profiles are not dismantled. Due to the fact that aluminum is quite light, this will not significantly increase the weight of the structure. Therefore, there is nothing much to worry about here.

    You can use steel pipes with a diameter of 7 cm as beacons. It is quite difficult to bend such a pipe, so the beacons will be even. In addition, they will not move during installation work. Consequently, the resulting surface will be perfectly flat.

    Steel pipes are dismantled from the almost frozen screed and can be reused. In addition, the structure will not contain metal elements that rust over time.

    Related article: We consider paint rollers: types and sizes

    Alternatively, you can make beacons with your own hands from sheets of drywall. But experts do not recommend doing this.

    The level can be used with water or laser. It is easier to work with laser levels, which are more accurate. A 2-meter level should be at hand.

    Preparatory work

    First of all, you need to assess the condition of the subfloor. The choice of self-leveling mixture and its quantity will depend on this. You also need to pay attention to the presence of major defects. If there are any, they must be sealed before pouring the base. You can do this yourself using cement-sand mortar. Or you can use the same mixture that will be used to fill the floor in the apartment.

    After assessing the condition of the rough foundation, it must be cleaned of dirt and dust. Then, repair large chips, potholes and cracks. If the defects are too deep, then they must first be filled with crushed stone having a fine fraction or expanded clay. To increase adhesion, it is advisable to treat the rough base with concrete contact.

    Self-leveling mixtures are fluid. Therefore, you need to take care of waterproofing. It must be applied with a previously prepared roller.

    To process the central part of the surface, use a wide roller. Corners and hard-to-reach places should be treated with a small roller or paint brushes. Experts recommend sealing the joints between floors and walls with special tape. Under no circumstances should roll materials be used as waterproofing.

    Self-leveling mixtures do not adhere well to the surface roll materials. Soon, defects in the form of cracks will appear on the surface of the screed, which will affect the service life of the decorative floor covering.

    All preparatory work can be easily done with your own hands. This will take a little time.

    Marking the premises and installing beacons

    After the waterproofing has dried, you can proceed to the main work. At the first stage, it is necessary to mark the room and install beacons. The markings can also be done with your own hands.

    To correctly mark, it is necessary to determine the highest point of the room. As practice shows, it is usually located under some wall or in the corner of the room. To determine the highest point of the room, you need to use a level to make markings on the walls of the room. This marking should be located approximately 1 meter from the floor.

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    Then, the height from this marking to the floor is measured. The place where the distance from the marking to the floor is the smallest is the highest point of the room. At this point the screed layer will be the thinnest.

    Before pouring the floors, you need to evaluate the height difference in the room. If it exceeds 4 cm, then you need to select a starting leveler for the floor. In this case, you should pay attention to the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the thickness of the leveling layer.

    If the differences are too large, you will have to fill the floors several times. In this case, you need to use solutions that are light in weight.

    Self-leveling mixtures that are prepared on the basis of cement do not belong to this category. It is worth choosing those materials that use expanded clay as a basis.

    If we imagine that the solution has already been poured, then the surface of the screed should be parallel to the plane that is obtained by connecting the marks on the walls previously made using a level. Therefore, you need to measure the distance from the markings on the wall to the highest point and remember this figure.

    Then, along the entire perimeter of the room, you need to use a level to make marks at the bottom of the wall, which will be located at the same distance from the top marking as the highest point. By connecting these marks, we get a line, focusing on which to install the beacons.

    You can install beacons with your own hands using cement-sand mortar. We check the final result using a laser level. In this case, further work is carried out only after the solution has hardened. Cement-sand mortar is not quick-drying. The alabaster mixture dries much faster. That’s why experts recommend installing beacons on it.

    The surface will not be level if the beacons are placed unevenly. Therefore, when installing beacons you need to use building level. The step between the beacons should be about 50 cm. There should be a distance of at least 10 cm from the first beacon to the wall.

    Before laying the finishing floor covering when renovating an apartment, it is necessary to prepare the base. The service life of the floor in the future will depend on this.

    The base must be made strong and absolutely level. Self-leveling flooring is fully consistent with these qualities; it is a self-flowing and quick-hardening mixture.

    If desired, everyone can fill a self-leveling floor with their own hands, regardless of the manufacturer, the technology is almost the same for everyone.

    Self-leveling floors can be poured onto concrete, wood, metal and other substrates. After complete drying, ceramic tiles, laminate, carpet and other floor coverings can be laid on it.

    Kinds

    All self-leveling floors can be divided into several large types depending on the binding material:

    • polyurethane;
    • epoxy;
    • gypsum;
    • on a cement base.

    Polyurethane self-leveling floors

    As the name suggests, their base is polyurethane. They have high strength, immunity to chemical influences, and wear resistance. Increased elasticity prevents cracks.

    Can be used in both residential and industrial premises.

    Polyurethane flooring can be poured onto almost any substrate: floorboard, laminate, metal, concrete.

    Epoxy self-leveling floors

    Epoxy floor base epoxy resin and hardener. These are the most beautiful polymer self-leveling floors, good master with its help you can make a real work of art.

    The floor can be transparent with any pattern, glossy like glass or matte. It is very hard, resistant to various chemicals and mechanical stress, but is afraid of pinpoint impacts.

    Due to the more complex manufacturing technology, it is recommended to entrust their filling to specialists.

    Self-leveling cement-based floors

    These are cement-based dry mixtures to increase plasticity and greater spreadability, special modified additives are added to them.

    Suitable for leveling large differences, cracks and other defects on the subfloor.

    Used as a base for laying the finishing floor covering on it:

    • laminate,
    • tile,
    • linoleum, etc.

    One of the leaders in the modern construction market is the fast-hardening mixture OSNOVIT SKORLINE T-45; using its example below, step-by-step instructions for pouring a self-leveling floor in an apartment will be given.

    Osnovit Skorline T-45 is used for surfaces with unevenness up to 10 cm, both for final leveling and preliminary leveling. It is non-shrinking, high strength and crack resistant.

    It is also suitable for those who want to install a “warm floor” system. This is facilitated by its high self-leveling and spreadability.

    Founder Skorline T-45 complies with all hygiene standards in force in the Russian Federation, it is environmentally friendly and does not contain harmful impurities. When hardened and completely dry, the surface is completely smooth and does not require further sanding.

    Video instructions for pouring self-leveling floor:

    Advantages and disadvantages

    Below we present the general advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floors.

    Advantages:

    • aesthetic appearance;
    • relative ease of filling;
    • hardness, high impact resistance;
    • durability 10 years or more;
    • high adhesion, the ability to pour on almost any substrate;
    • hygiene, ease of cleaning and operation;
    • there are no seams or joints;
    • fireproof;
    • resistant to various chemicals;
    • maintainability.

    The self-leveling floor will meet all the described advantages if the technology for filling it is fully followed.

    Flaws:

    • high price;
    • complexity of technology;
    • the floors “do not breathe”, regular ventilation of the room is necessary;
    • cold, it is necessary to insulate;
    • difficulty of dismantling.

    How to choose a self-leveling floor

    The choice of type of self-leveling floor depends on:

    • future load;
    • the material from which the initial base is made, on which the pouring will be performed;
    • presence of defects;
    • thickness of the future layer;
    • type of finishing floor covering.

    For living rooms in an apartment, a polyurethane self-leveling floor is better suited; in the bathroom, an epoxy floor with increased moisture resistance is recommended. Both types can be used without finishing.

    An industrial self-leveling floor is suitable for administrative and commercial buildings; it has increased strength and can easily withstand heavy loads from various loads and traffic. large quantity of people.

    Polyurethane self-leveling floors are more hygienic, waterproof and safe. optimal choice for residential premises.

    Required Tools

    You can fill the self-leveling floor with your own hands using the following tool:

    1. bucket or other container for mixing 20-25 liters;
    2. needle roller;
    3. drill or special mixer with an attachment;
    4. squeegee for drawing out the solution with an adjustable gap;
    5. wide spatula;
    6. special paint shoes;
    7. polyethylene film;
    8. level.

    Pouring self-leveling floor step by step instructions

    As mentioned above, here are instructions for pouring the fast-hardening mixture Osnovit Skorline T-45.

    Preparing the base

    The base under the self-leveling floor in the apartment must be cleaned of all kinds of stains, paint, crumbling coatings, vacuumed and dry.

    All further operation of the self-leveling floor depends on this stage.

    If the base is poorly prepared, troubles may arise in the future:

    • peeling,
    • cracking,
    • loss of strength.

    To avoid overuse of mortar and flooding of neighbors below, all joints and cracks must be carefully sealed.

    It is necessary to lay a deformation (edge) tape around the perimeter of the room where the floor will be poured.

    Primer

    Any base must be cleaned and primed before pouring a self-leveling floor onto it. The primer is selected depending on the base material on which it is applied.

    In bathrooms and other areas with high humidity, use waterproofing primers. The primer can be applied with a roller or by spraying.

    Any work can be continued only after the primer has completely dried.

    Preparation of the solution

    To prepare the solution, you need a container of at least 20 liters. Pour water at a temperature of about 20C° into it, then add the dry mixture, stirring constantly.

    Mix using a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment for about 5 minutes until a homogeneous mass is obtained, leave to infuse for 2 minutes and mix again for 2-3 minutes. This will take about 10 minutes and the self-leveling mixture is ready for use.

    For 1 bag (20 kg of dry mixture) you need 7.0-7.4 liters of water. The proportions depend on the manufacturer and are indicated on the packaging.

    Watch the amount of water; excess will lead to delamination, reduce strength, increase the drying time of the self-leveling floor and cracks may appear.

    When mixing the solution, use only clean tools, a container and water.

    When the viscosity of the prepared solution increases, do not add water, but simply stir it.

    Prepare the solution as much as necessary to work for 60 minutes, this is the time for using the prepared mixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

    Fill level

    To determine the required level at which the filling will be done, you need to find the highest point of the room.

    If the self-leveling floor will be poured throughout the entire apartment, then the highest point should be determined relative to the entire room, and not separately for each room. Otherwise, there will be a height difference at the joints.

    Using a water level or a laser level, we draw an arbitrary line from which we measure the distance to the floor along the perimeter of the entire room.

    In the place where the distance is smallest there will be the highest point of the floor. From this minimum distance we subtract the required minimum thickness of the future self-leveling floor (5 mm).

    We measure the resulting distance from the previously applied level throughout the room. This will be the level at which the solution must be poured.

    Pouring self-leveling floor

    The solution is poured using a pump or manually, starting from the far wall. The mixture should be applied evenly over the entire surface based on a layer thickness of 2 to 100 mm.

    To level, you can use a long spatula. Also, immediately after pouring the self-leveling floor, you can roll it with a needle roller to release air bubbles formed when mixing the solution.

    The fluidity of the self-leveling floor lasts 40 - 60 minutes, so the time between pours should be no more than 10 minutes.

    Edge tape for self-leveling floors must be applied along the perimeter of the walls.

    The surface and ambient air temperature during operation and the next few days should be between +5ºС and +30ºС.

    To ensure uniform drying, the poured floor can be covered with plastic film.

    When hardening, the surface must be periodically moistened so that the surface does not dry out too quickly. Drafts and direct sunlight should also be avoided.

    After 2-2.5 hours you can already walk on the floor. Linoleum and ceramic tiles can be laid no earlier than three days later.

    Checking the readiness of the self-leveling floor for further work. Secure 1 x 1 meter polyethylene to the floor with tape. After a day, check and if there is condensation or a dark damp spot, it means the base has not dried completely.

    Before laying ceramic tiles, apply a primer to the base: Osnovit Unkont T-51 or Osnovit Intekont T-50. The tiles can be laid after the primer has completely dried.

    The final strength of the self-leveling floor occurs after 28 days. The "warm floor" system can be turned on no earlier than after 28 days.

    Characteristics of the fast-hardening self-leveling floor Osnovit Skorline T-45:

    • self-leveling;
    • non-shrink;
    • crack-resistant;
    • low consumption 13 kg/m2;
    • for interior work;
    • layer thickness from 2 to 100 mm;
    • hardening time 2 - 2.5 hours;
    • easy to use;
    • Recommended for underfloor heating systems.

    Step-by-step instructions for pouring and calculating the costs of self-leveling floor:

    Calculation of mixture consumption

    The consumption of self-leveling floor components is affected by the quality of the base - the worse it is leveled, the greater the consumption. High-quality application of primer in several layers also helps reduce the required materials.

    The average universal value for calculating the consumption of dry mixture is 1.3-1.8 kg per 1 square meter floor with a layer thickness of 1 mm.

    More exact consumption You can look at the packaging of the dry mixture; it may vary depending on the type of floor and manufacturer.

    Drying time

    When purchasing, look at the date of manufacture, since the shelf life of the dry mixture in the original packaging is only 6 months.

    Cracks in the self-leveling floor

    If the filling technology is not followed, self-leveling floor cracks may appear. They can be large all the way down to the base or superficial and small.

    The main causes of cracks:

    • Pouring onto a wet concrete base.
    • Movable, fragile foundation.
    • The required amount of water when preparing the mixture was exceeded.
    • The expiration date of the dry mixture has been violated.

    If small cracks up to 1 cm appear, there is no need to refill the entire floor. You can fix them by doing some minor repairs:

    1. widen the crack;
    2. remove dust using a vacuum cleaner;
    3. apply primer and dry;
    4. Fill the crack with new mortar.

    Compliance with the pouring technology will make it possible to create a strong and even base for the installation of any floor finishing covering.

    10 steps to pour self-leveling floor

    So, let's summarize how to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands step by step:

    1. prepare the premises;
    2. do the cleaning;
    3. divide the apartment room by room into contours;
    4. stick edge tape around the perimeter;
    5. apply primer;
    6. we find the highest point and, taking it into account, mark on the walls the level at which we will fill the floor;
    7. prepare the solution;
    8. pour it out ready mixture onto the floor and level it with a needle roller;
    9. continue to add the solution to the marked level;
    10. After the self-leveling floor has hardened, cut off the edge tape.

    Video secrets of pouring a self-leveling floor with your own hands:

    If you have any questions, complaints or want to leave your positive feedback, you can do so below! Leave your feedback and suggestions in the comments!