A couple of decades ago, there was a poor selection of building materials that allow to aesthetically arrange a bathroom. Inserting cement mortar with subsequent application of enamel paint - a favorite method of most of the population of the nearby past. An indispensable condition for long-term operation of the joint without destruction was the lack of the slightest vibrations of the bath. The intensive development of the chemical industry and the improvement of technological processes filled the market with a wide range of products that allow high-quality and elegantly to close between the tiles and the bathroom joint.

Box design options

In the process of re-equipment of the bathroom, the question of the sequence of the work performed, which warns the water flow at the junction of the tile and the bathroom in the future. Experienced specialists offer a lot of solution options for the problem providing the opportunity to choose the most optimal method in a particular situation.

Planning long-term operation of the bath allows the installation of its sidebar in the wall. After high-quality fixation of the plumbing, the tile is placed, the connecting junction is processed by the surmise grout. A similar solution has certain nuances. The complete exception of the risk of water flow is a substantial plus of the proposed method. Among the disadvantages, there is the likelihood of a tile masonry at the junction as a result of insufficient bath stability. The unexpected situation on the replacement of the subject of Plumbing will entail additional investments of financial and labor resources for dismantling tiles and its re-laying. Chance pick up finishing material From a similar collection is small, so the replacement of the bath can provoke a complete repair of the room.

Much more efficient not to wet the bath in the wall, but apply modern materials For sealing the joint. The following options have been stable popularity:

  • application of grouts for tiles;
  • the use of the solution;
  • installation foam finish;
  • work with silicone sealant;
  • installation of borders.

Each method has certain advantages and some disadvantages that are excluded with a simultaneous combination of several methods. Detailed introduction with the process of sealing between the bathroom and the junction tile will allow you to choose the most acceptable option in a particular situation.

Tile clamp

Bathing close to the wall allows you to make a joint with minimal cost Forces and means. By providing high-quality fixation of the bath, it is enough to close the slot with a white grout, or coinciding on a shade with tiles. Long preservation of color and moisture resistance - the key advantages of the method. Additional treatment in the form of a fug-shine coating will significantly increase the level of protection against external pollution and rust. However, the conditions of dense adjustment to the tile throughout the perimeter and sustainable fixation of the bath are not always performed, so they resort to more reliable options.

Application of solution

The traditional solution to seal the joint with a cement-based solution has the right to exist. The economy of the long-known method ensures its stable popularity. For decoration of the gap in the bathroom, the use of the remaining tile adhesive is allowed or self-cement mortar independently. Crossing the joint of the plaster is also appropriate. A sufficiently thick consistency of the solution is an integral condition of a qualitative result. The process of sealing the joint includes the following steps:

  • The surface of the bath and adjacent tiles is thoroughly cleaned from contaminants.
  • The processed area is wetted with water to increase adhesion.
  • Eliminate the likelihood of falling the solution under the bath will help plastic gridused when plastering or putting the angular surfaces fixed by the junction of the tile and the bathroom. The absence of sickle will successfully replace other infirred materials fixed under the edge of the bath.
  • After applying a small amount of solution, sink it.

A warning ! The sealing of the junction between the bathroom and the tile of cement mortar needs additional protection against moisture.

To increase the resistance level of moisture and giving the interior of the aesthetic appearance, the joint needs to be subsequently finished. Specialists offer to treat its water-repellent impregnation or epoxy resin. The final design of the bath is performed using tile or self-adhesive tape.

Use of mounting foam

Significantly facilitates the process of eliminating the junction between the bathroom and the wall of the installation of the mounting foam. By purchasing a cylinder with a composition, make sure that it has moisture-proof properties. Before starting work, take care of the protection of hands with gloves. In the absence of a protective barrier and foam from entering the skin, thoroughly rinse the body area with water, not allowing drying. Similar to the process of sealing with a solution, the surface of the tile and the bath in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joint is pre-cleaned. The guidance of a qualitative result is neat actions when applying material. Avoid foam hits for extraneous sections. After its complete drying, surplus from the bathroom and tiles are removed by cutting with a stationery knife. In conclusion, it is resorted to one of the most suitable finish methods - tiles, ribbon or border.

Silicone sealant

For sealing a small gap between the tile and the bathroom, silicone sealant is used as the main assembly material. Clamps that reach sizes up to 3 cm require pre-processing of the joint by mounting foam. Purchase a sanitary sealant that prevents the appearance of mold in the air. Sequence of work on the seal of the slit is as follows:

  • The surfaces of the tile and baths adjacent to the junction, with the purpose of degreasing, is treated with solvent.
  • Paper Scotch pasted along the joint will prevent the bathroom and tile pollution.
  • Having done a hole in the tube, the attached tip is fixed on it.
  • Securing the tube in a special pistol, the sealant based on silicone is neatly distributed over the junction.
  • The intended area between tiles and the bathroom is filled with a single movement. Apply an additional layer on the frozen mass is impossible.
  • Merry solution prepare and suitable with a width of a brush.
  • The tassel in the soap solution is carried out according to a silicone joint for the purpose of giving it a smooth surface. Movements should have a strict orientation. The chaotic of smears will lead to the formation of an uneven surface.

Rubber spatula is capable of noting a brush. In the extreme case, to disperse the seam between tiles and a bathroom with a finger or spatula. After drying the silicone joint, the paper tape is removed. In the case of its absence, the surplus of the assembly material is removed from the bathroom and tiles with a wet cloth.

Important ! When working in the bathroom, take care of compliance with security measures.

Working with the solvent obliges well to ventilate the room. The mask and gloves will protect against the negative impact of chemical evaporation and prevent damage to the skin in the event of a caustic substance.

Borders: plastic, ceramic, self-adhesive tape

After sealing the joint with a sealing composition, you should take care of decorative decoration Plot between the cafeter and the bathroom. Most often for these purposes, various borders are applied.

Plastic plinth has substantiated popularity. A relatively inexpensive product is convenient to use for the final sealing of the junction between the tile and the bathroom. Various models are offered to the choice of consumers. The most common design, which closes the bathroom joint and tile by mounting on liquid nails is most common. To form a joint in the corner, the plinth is cut at an angle of 45 o or resort to special fittings. Mandatory condition for long-term operation Refusal to use aggressive chemistry and abrasive drugs. The second option is applied less frequently. In this case, the junction is close simultaneously with the laying of the tile. Pre-install plinth - one edge on the side of the bathroom, the second - is interinted in the adhesive composition. Finally fasten the tile.

Ceramic plinth of the bathroom joint and tiles will cost much more expensive. The advantage of the method:

  • increase in the period of operation;
  • resistance to the influence of chemical compositions;
  • the surface is practically not scratched;
  • plinth does not change color over time.

The disadvantages include a small selection. color palette. Docking is carried out similarly to plastic plinths.

Tip! Crimping ceramic products produce a grinder with a diamond disk. The use of a fragmented disc can provoke the inclination of the edges and will determine the appearance of the junction of the bathroom and tiles.

Most easily close the junction between the tile and the bathroom self-adhesive ribbon. The sequence of work includes the following steps:

  • careful sweep with the degreasing of the surfaces of the bath and tiles;
  • removal of protective film with tape;
  • easy heat heating with a hairdryer;
  • close up the gap by pressing the tape.

If you decide to repair in the bathroom, then you will certainly be a question - how to put a tile in the bathroom?

The thing is that this room is special, since it is very often an increased humidity and temperature difference.

And this - significantly reduces the list of materials that can be carried out on the design of the floor and walls in this room.

Advantages and disadvantages of tile

One of the materials that is perfect for the lining of the bathroom is the tile.

Compared to many other finishes, it has undeniable advantages:

  • durability - if it is properly putting it, it can withstand even greater weight than w / w plates;
  • moisture resistance - it is perfectly opposed to moisture and can stay in direct contact with water for a long time;
  • durability - this material retains its attractiveness and operational properties for 10 years;
  • fire safety - the tile has a good resistance to elevated temperatures, due to which it can be put even in rooms with high fire safety requirements;
  • environmentally friendly - in the production of tiles, only natural elements are used that are not separating toxic substances into the surrounding space;
  • a large variety of color and textured execution, which will allow you to choose the most optimal version of the tile in any bathroom interior.

Of the minuses - it is possible to allocate that the complexity of its laying, which requires the perfectly level base and the presence of at least basic skills and skills in circulating tiles from the performer.

Preparatory work

Like any other building process, the laying of the tile requires some preparatory activities that can be divided into several stages:

  • selection of tile configuration and laying method;
  • calculation of the required amount of finishing material for the bathroom and its purchase;
  • preparation of the foundation for finishing.

Selection of design and method laying tiles in the bathroom

Before putting the tile, you need to choose appearance Finishing material.

There is nothing complicated in the form of the form, because almost the entire tile is made rectangular or square shape.

It is somewhat more difficult to determine the color and pattern, since in the modern market you can meet a truly huge number of color solutions.

To facilitate the designer's work, manufacturers produce serial products in several color schemes.

At the same time, the classic circuit of the installation of tiles in the bathroom to vertical surfaces - consists of dark bottom and light vertex, with the use of curb elements in the middle.

Choosing a shade of future cladding, it is necessary to repel from your favorite color.

For example, if you prefer red - make a bath in red tones.

When planning the interior of the bathroom, you also need to choose a chart of tile laying.

It should be noted that the correctly selected scheme will allow to emphasize all positive sides your bathroom and hide the possible disadvantages (for example, not too smooth walls).

Today, the most popular ways of laying tiles are considered:

  • Base. The tile is mounted parallel to the finishing surface, each other. This option is the most economical, since it forms a minimum amount of waste.
  • Diagonal. It is considered the most difficult, but it allows you to hide small wall defects and visually increase the room.
  • Chess. In this case, the tile of two contrasting colors is applied. The resulting drawing will be appropriate both on the vertical and horizontal surfaces.


Calculation of the required amount of bathroom trim tiles

Required quantity facing materialFor the design of the floor and walls in the bathroom, it is calculated quite easily.

To do this, it is required to know the finishing area and the area of \u200b\u200bone tile, after which it is to divide the first value to the second.

If the bathroom has a complex geometry, then in this case - you first need to split it on simple figures, and then find the area of \u200b\u200beach element and sum up the existing values.

Before the start of the calculations, you should decide exactly where you will put tiles.

This material is quite expensive, so in some places you can do without finishing.

For example, carrying out a lining around the bath, you can put a cheaper tile under it or do without it.

In the second case - to protect the base from moisture, it will be necessary to plaster and process the primer mixture.

As an example, a situation will be given when it is necessary to separate the wall with a tile with dimensions of 1.5x2.5 m.

At the same time - a tile with dimensions of 30x20 cm will be used.

The procedure for calculating is as follows:

  • the base area is: 1.5 * 2.5 \u003d 3.75 m2;
  • tile area is: 0.3 * 0.2 \u003d 0.06 m2;
  • the required amount of finishing material is: 3.75 / 0.06 \u003d 62.5 or 63 pcs.

Any finishing work Ensure the formation of waste, so the tile for finishing the bathroom should be taken with a slight margin (about 8%).

Therefore, for the example above - you will need: 63 + 8% \u003d 68 pcs.

Preparation of the foundation

Before putting the tile in the bathroom, you should prepare some tools and materials:

  • slab;
  • drill SO special nozzle on kafel;
  • perforator;
  • level;
  • plumb;
  • rubber hammer;
  • toothed spatula;
  • mounted solution;
  • battle mixture;
  • primer.

Before laying a new finishing material, it is necessary to clean the walls and the floor from the old one.

If paint or tile was used as an old finish, then the perforator will help you to get rid of them.

It is necessary to work around the bath and hauncher to work perforator very carefully to not damage their surface.

After that, it should be checked evenness of a facing base.

The evenness of the walls is checked with a plumb, and the floor is a building level.

To equalize the floor - a level is usually used or a screed.

At the same time, the first option is better to use only when the height difference does not exceed 20 mm.

Immediately before applying the solution, the finishing surface should be treated with a primer mixture.

This will not only increase the adhesion of the leveling mixture, but also reduce its consumption.

For alignment of the walls, plaster or GLK is great.

If the vertical surface has minor defects, it is better to use plaster.

If you need to eliminate large height differences, then optimal option Performs plasterboard.

How to put a tile on the floor?

Before laying a tile on glue, it is necessary to produce it "dry" installation.

This will help more clearly see - how it will fall, how many elements will need to trim, etc.

At the same time, sliced \u200b\u200bpieces need to be put in the last row.

First - tile glue Applied to the floor and on the tile with the help of a toothed spatula.

Then - the finishing material is tightly pressed to the floor and is lightly closed with a rubber hammer for a more dense fixation.

So that the seams between adjacent elements were the same, special crosses are installed.

The evenness of each laid row check with the help of a construction level.

If the protruding elements are found in any place, then it's a hammer over them again.

For better adhesion glue - the back side of the tile, before laying, you can moisten in water.

Where do floor cladding start?

Using whole slices of a tile, a row for nearby move to a long wall.

In this case, the curved elements will be placed around the bath, which will hide them from third-party eyes.

How to put a tile on the walls?

For more dense tile fixation, at the preparatory stage - on the walls it is necessary to make shallow grooves.

As in the case of the floor decoration, you also need to know where to start the walls mounting work.

If the height of the walls in the bathroom is multiple the number of tile series, then it is not necessary to pruning the height, then the installation work is better to start from the floor.

Otherwise, the tile is put from the second row.

At the same time, the cropped elements will be located below.

Around the door in the bathroom - the wall is separated by the mostst.

First, the material is mounted around the side, and then above the door.

For registration of the speaker angle, you can apply a decorative corner.

Otherwise, the technology of finishing vertical surfaces is no different from cladding tiles.

After the adhesive mixture is sinking, it is necessary to grip all the seams that occur during the work.

This procedure is mandatory, since not only the attractiveness of the finishing will depend on the quality of the seams, but also its protected moisture and harmful microorganisms.

At the same time, special attention should be paid to the seams around the bath and shells, because they especially need protection.

As a grout for interchanger cracks, it is recommended to use an epoxy mixture that has good properties and a long operational period.

For sealing seams around the bath - it is better to use a white or transparent silicone sealant.

Facing with ceramic tiles is the most common way to finish surfaces in the bathroom. The process laying the tiles around the bath is slightly different from the laying of the tile on the walls of the room, but the laying of the tile begins the same to lather all surfaces - from measurements.

It is necessary to measure the width and height of each wall, after which it is necessary to determine the area of \u200b\u200beach vertical wall. In accordance with the calculations, it is necessary to purchase the required amount of tile, which is purchased square meters. It is recommended to add another five more to the calculated number, which are spent on possible defects of tile, damage, etc. In addition, buying a tile, you should always check the tile of tiles. Usually such a shade is indicated on the package with a set of letters or numbers.

In addition to directly, the tiles often use special profiles for wall decoration - tiles having rounded ends intended for final wall decoration. To calculate the amount of the necessary profile, it is necessary to measure the height of the outer edge of the wall along the bathroom. When buying a profile, it is important to know that it is bought not by square meters, like a tile, but by route meters either by pieces.

You should choose a tile only after calculating the amount of material required for cladding, as well as taking into account the use of finishing profiles, decorative tiles, etc. Dusting the monochrome tile or tile without a picture by several patterned tiles (or tiles of another shade), you can make facing original and expressive.

Preparation for laying

The first stage of laying the tile is the preparation of the room and the surface to laying. The bath is usually protected by film from possible damage. For reliability, the polymer film must be fixed with adhesive tape in several places. Pipes and cranes located indoors are recommended to close with cardboard tubes.

Next, it is necessary to prepare the basis for laying. A good base for laying the tile is a cement plate, and glued plywood, on the contrary, not the desired base for laying the tile, since around the bathroom surface is always exposed to moisture. It is recommended to use cement plates if possible. For example, if the house is only built, the use of cement slabs, which can be purchased in specialized stores, can be provided in advance.

Such plates can have different thickness and dimensions. The most common plates with a thickness of 12 mm, which have dimensions of 0.9 x 1.5 m. If necessary, ready-made plates can be cut, for which it is convenient to use the saw. It is necessary to apply the markup with a pencil on the surface of the plate in the mete, where the cut should be taken. Further, the saw makes small cuts, along which the plate is cleaned into parts.

Print tiles on the smooth surface of the plate with the use of mastic, and on the rough surface of the plate it is recommended to glue the tiles in the case of the use of a portland cement solution or another building solution as an adhesive composition for tiles.

When installing cement plates, it is recommended to leave between separate plates a distance of about three millimeters. To secure the slate to use special screws, install which is recommended at a distance from 15 to 20 centimeters. It is important to understand, the cement plate will not serve as an additional strengthening of the wall, and is intended only for use as a base for masonry onto it ceramic tiles.

Mounting plates should be fixed so that they are fixed, it is impossible to allow weak fastening. Otherwise, the plates can break or crack. The formed joints between the plates before the start of the surface cladding are sampled by a special tape consisting of fiberglass, the reverse side of which has an adhesive layer. Such a tape can be purchased in construction stores.

Ceramic tile laying technology

Before laying the tile, it is recommended to apply along the walls on one row of tiles along the walls to pick up the best laying option. Properly lined with tiles The surface is the laying of tiles in such a way that in the places of their docking on the adjacent walls did not have to lay the tropped tiles. For example, if it turns out that at the end of the row it is necessary to put the tile, the width of which is less than two and a half centimeters, then it is recommended to cut the first tile of the row on the same magnitude. So the trim of the bath tile will look more attractive, and do not have to spend a large number of Tiles on slicing narrow strips.

On the base surface, you must make the corresponding marks to know the location of the cut tiles. After that, vertical lines are applied on the wall for which the laying will be carried out to obtain strictly vertical rows. To obtain vertical lines, a special device is used - plumb. The plumb is a cord, at the end of which the load is attached. With it, it is also easy to install surface irregularities before starting the main work.

Experts recommend putting tile on a small surface area. To do this, it is necessary using the rule to draw a chalk line on the wall surface, distinguishing small surface areas. The height of such sites can be from 4 to 6 tiles. After that, you can start laying the tile, while checking the level and rule all the time.

If it is found that the rows are stored unevenly, on a small area of \u200b\u200bthe surface, the disadvantage is easier to correct. To do this, it is enough to lay subsequent tiles, reducing or increasing intercutric gaps.

In the quality of the adhesive composition for the tile, you can apply special mastic or building mixture. With the help of mastic ceramic tile Stay quickly and securely. The cement composition is also used often, but it is often difficult to prepare difficulties. It is not so easy to prepare on your own correctly, so it is necessary to clearly withstand the proportions of the components of the composition and it is properly stirred.

Therefore, with mastic work easier. With a spatula on a small section of the surface, it is necessary to apply the adhesive composition and attach the tile turns according to the surface markup. Each tile should be aligned, press a bit, and when excess glue appears, remove its surface with a scraper or spatula. If the glue fell into the gaps between the tiles, then it is recommended to clean it using a narrow plastic spatula or a wooden chopstick. In order to prevent the extraction of excess glue on the surface of the tiles, it is recommended to immediately remove it from the surface with a sponge and warm water. After the next section of the tile is laid, the surface of the tiles can be washed with water, carefully wiping a well-sponge tile, trying not to move them from the spot.

After laying on the surface of the base of all tiles, you need to wait about a day until the tile dry out. After that, you can proceed to the final stages of laying.

Ceramic tile trimming

In order to trim a piece of ceramic tile, it is necessary before it is applied to the adhesive composition, make the markup with a pencil and roulette. After that, along the resulting line, cut off a piece of tiles using a special tool. In order to cut off the tiles parts that will fit around sewage and water pipes, it is recommended to use tongs for a tile. Such a tool needs to bite small pieces of tiles along the marked line until a piece of the tile of the desired shape and size is formed.

For cutting off straight pieces of tiles, cafereres usually use. With the help of such a tool, you can quickly and simply cut off the necessary piece of tiles, getting a smooth and beautiful edge of the tile at the same time. As in the case of using forceps, it is necessary to put a line on the tile, along which there is a cut. We simply use the tool: setting it along the marked line, you must press on the handle and the tile quickly splits into the required pieces.

Shutkish seams

After the glue is completely dry, it is possible to start grouting the seams. For seams of small size, it is necessary to use a grout, which does not include sand. It is also recommended to use a grout with latex or add to the usual lighting "latex milk" to improve the properties of the cloud.

It is recommended not to dilute Latex Milk for savings, as they do quite often. This can lead to a decrease in grouting elasticity. In addition, latex additive increases the durability of the coating and makes stronger and more reliably the adhesion of the material with the surface. Accordingly, if the concentration of the additive is reduced, its properties will also decrease.

Well mixing the additive with the grout in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions described in the instructions for using materials, it is necessary to leave the mixture for several minutes. Also, it is recommended to prepare such a number of composition that will be required to perform work at a time, i.e., it is not desirable to store the rapid composition.

With the help of rubber ironing, it is necessary to apply grout on the surface of the tile. In this case, the rubber iron should be kept under a small angle to the surface, and move the movement in the diagonal direction. So putting it better fill the gaps between the seams. The field of how well all the seams between the tiles are well filled, it is necessary to start the next stage of work - cleaning the surface. It is necessary to start cleaning from the same place from which the scams began.

Cleaning the tile is a simple process, although quite boring. Cleaning the surface is necessary in conventional warm water with a large sponge. In the process of cleaning the surface, the sponge must be well pressed and completely wipe the surface, having a sponge at an angle of 45 degrees to the tiled seams of the lined surface. In parallel, the seam rubbing the tile is not recommended, as it can wash off and a little grout.

To remove the plaque, which, as a rule, remains on the tiles after it is washed, you can wipe the surface with a dry white cloth. The laying of the tile is completed. After the surface is treated with a cloud composition and cleared, approximately three weeks (no less), the grout is recommended to be treated with sealant. Prior to this, it is desirable not to use the bathroom or eliminate water from entering intercutric seams.

You can also space between the bathroom and the wall, as well as around the holes for pipes, fill in a special seal. So, lay the tile around the bath is easy to follow the sequence of the main stages and accounting for the characteristics of the process.

Laying tiles

So, now everything is ready for dry styling of ceramic tiles. Attach along each wall on one row of tiles (without gluing) it will help you choose best option Styling, in which in places of docking tiles on the adjacent walls will not be narrow cutting strips of the tile. If the tile at the end of the row is obtained by a width of less than 2.5 cm, it is better to cut off part of the tile at the beginning of the row than cutting the tile on narrow strips and customize them. Believe me, try to cut off the narrow tile strips - useless occupation, and you will only lose a lot of tiles due to the fact that they cracked. Make a small mark with a pencil on the wall, where the first and last tiles in the row will lie. Using a plumbing (cord with cargo), apply vertical lines, which will indicate the correct direction of the vertical rows of tiles. These lines will also help you while working when moving up the wall. With the help of a plumbing, you can also define before starting the styling of the stove irregularity and correct where it is necessary. Do this operation, moving along all walls. Keep in mind that the rows of tiles should never end in the place where the seam cement slab is located.

I came to the conclusion that the tile is easier to put small areas. With the help of the rule (verification line) and the chalk lines deposited on the surface of the cement slab, share the entire wall into small sections. I noted a plot with a height of 4-6 tiles. On such a plot, it is convenient to apply glue or cement mortar. Use the rule and level to constantly check the tile laying correctness. In case the tile rows begin to "run away", it is easier to adjust the tile on a small area in both width and height.

The fit is made due to the accurate expansion or reduction of the width of the grinding seams. My tile had built-in dividers along all edges of the tile, I did not have the need to set the distance between the tiles.

To lay the tile, I used high-quality mastic for the walls, as it greatly facilitates the work for the unprofessional. Even house master Engaged in the laying of the tile not one year, learn how to quickly and properly prepare the cement mixture in the bucket is quite difficult. (On a note: cement mix It is better suitable for fastening the tile to the cement wall, but as a home master I do not want to experience overestimation). When working on a separate little plot, you do not need to make all kinds of work at the same time. Although I made the walls above the bathroom in one day, you can do work on the plots when you make time. Just do not care for too much plot, trying in a hurry to put tiles on the wall. If the excess glue appears, take the spatula, scrape them and remove them. I used old scrapers, so I could throw them after they came into disrepair.

Mastics manufacturers in the instructions indicate which a serrated scraper is more suitable for applying this glue. Make sure the glue can be used to lay tiles to vertical surfaces. The glue for the wall tile should be very strong and quickly captured so that the adjacent tiles do not "slip" at a time when attaching another tile. Tiles need to firmly press the adhesive solution. Periodically knock on the surface of the tile and listen to the sound published to check whether the glue filled the space under the tile. So that the tiles are tightly attached, slightly move the tile forward-back after pressing the glue. (Do not overdo it, otherwise you can squeeze all the glue through the seams). This will give you confidence that the tile reliably "sat down" in glue.

To clean the glue that has fallen into the gap of the tile seam, I used a thin wooden wand or a 2,5 cm thick plastic spatula. I prefer plastic or tree so as not to scratch tiles.

The glue should be applied to the surface of the cement plate using a scraper of a suitable size. The scraper must have a pilt edge. Teeth allows you to distribute glue uniform "scallops". It is usually recommended only slightly tilting the scraper. (If the joints of the fingers fall into the glue, then you keep the scraper incorrectly). Never distribute glue with a smooth scraper or a smooth side of a serrated scraper. When the teeth on the scraper come into disrepair, stop working and take a new one. Change the scraper is much cheaper than changing the tile due to the poor quality of work. Buy the scrapers of the highest quality and always keep them at hand. Check more often if the teeth were worn.

As you set the tile, the piece of glue can be seized on the surface of the tile. Always have a bucket with warm water and a sponge. As soon as you finish laying the tile on a small plot, moisten the sponge and wipe the excess glue from the surface of the tile. Do it carefully, so as not to move the recently installed tile. More often and press the sponge; Tile surface wipe only well pressed with a wet sponge.
In order to trim the tile, make a markup on it before applying glue. With the help of a roulette, a pencil and one or two tiles, mark the tile plot to be cut off. In order to heat the pipes, I used tongs for a tile, gradually biting the small pieces from the tile. Locks for tiles can be bought in specialized sections for the sale of tools.

In order to cut off straight slices or cut off the tiles in half, I used the cafeberes. With the help of a tile cafeferosis, it is much easier and more accurate, and the edges are greater. First, on the surface of the tile, the line is stuck on which the tile will be cut. Then you need to press the device with a hand on the handle and under the action of pressure, the tile is easy to split into two parts just along the battered line.

Platekores can be rented for the time of laying tiles.

After the tile was laid, the glue was supposed to be saved for 24 hours. At this time I did another bathroom.

During repairs in an apartment or house, the laying of tiles in the bath is considered particularly difficult work, so most people are inclined to entrust this task to professionals. But not everything is so difficult, as it seems at first glance, and the laying of the tile can be carried out by itself, and to do everything as quickly as possible and efficiently, we bring to your attention detailed instructions and consideration of the main nuances of this process.

Selection of material and tools

Pick up a tile for the bathroom - Enough difficult taskespecially for a person who has not previously had such experience.


Much makes it easier for the fact that modern tile Available with whole collections that consist of outdoor and wall tiles, as well as decorative elements. Such collections are harmoniously combined in colors and shades, have the same topics.

The wall tile is distinguished by a slightly delicate structure, which makes it easier to work in the process of its cutting.

An ideal for laying on the walls is considered a tile that has an indicator of water absorption - 20%.


It is worth noting that the floor tile is characterized by a more dense structure, has a low water absorption, more durable and resistant to aggressive chemistry, the maximum wear-resistant.

Important! When choosing outdoor tile Pay attention to it to be not slippery - this will reduce the risk of injury.

The surface of the acquired material should be not porous: Small multiple deepening is much more complicated by the task of cleaning, and with the time of the pores they will score dust, the tile will lose its attractive appearance, shine and even color.

The price of materials also plays a role and often depends not only on the quality of the tile, but also from the producer country. It is not necessary to choose the materials of expensive Italian manufacturers, you can stay on a more budget, but not less high-quality Polish tiles.


Qualitative material will not have any cracks, chips or uneven surfaces.

In order to be confident as the acquired material, you can ask the seller to show a quality certificate - such a document will be a guarantee of durability and reliability.

Pay attention to the design of the acquired material - in this case it is better to repel from personal preferences, and not to rely on fashion trends. Fashion varies every year, and you will update the tile in best case Once every 7-10 years.

When you have already decided, what tile will be purchased, it is necessary to correctly calculate the amount of material. The task is particularly difficult to calculate if decorative elements are present in the collection.

In order for the process to calculate the amount of material as simple as possible, it is recommended to follow the sequence of actions:


Buy materials not back, but with a stock of about 5%.

In addition to tiles, you also need to stock:


Did you know? Initially, the ceramic tile was manually manufactured and was such expensive material that only the favorites could afford such a luxury. The Italian tile was considered the most expensive tile in the XIX century, which was used in large volumes during the construction of Catholic churches.

Surface preparation

When the tile and all additional materials and tools are bought, you can proceed to the preparation of the surface of the room.


Alignment

The first stage in preparation for laying the tile is the leveling of the walls of the room. There are several ways to align, each of which we will consider in detail.

Plaster

The most common way of alignment of the walls is shtacking. It is believed that this method is quite laborious and long-term, but if you follow the basic rules and use special tools, then the walls will not be much difficult.

As for the material for plastering, the fiscal is considered cement-sandy solution. However, it is preparing independently, and often inexperienced masters are mistaken with the proportions of sand, cement and water. As a result, the plaster holds badly and after a while it can completely turn.


The most reliable option is considered to use the material in the form of a waterproof tank for the bathroom, which is produced on specialized factories.

The finished mixtures are on plaster and cement basis. Solve what mixture to choose, you must independently, based on the price and personal preferences.

Before you begin to apply plaster on the wall, the surface is pre-prepared: remove the old coating in the form of paint, tiles, wallpaper, loose layer of plaster.


The use of a plaster mix is \u200b\u200bcharacterized by the following pluses:
  • durability and high strength characteristics;
  • plasticity material;
  • easy application for curved grounds;
  • the possibility of grinding to perfect smoothness.
The disadvantages of plaster include:
  • high cost;
  • high material consumption;
  • incomliance use for walls with great curvature;
  • large time spent on applying and drying layer plaster.

Plasterboard

Alignment of walls using drywall is used if there are more than 5 cm on the wall or it is necessary to hide the pipes and other unnecessary elements.


To align the wall with drywall, resort to the use of standard plasterboard sheets and mounting glue.

A prerequisite for cladding the walls by this material is the strength of the foundation and the absence of muddy sites.

Before starting the installation work, the wall is purified from wax, oils and other substances that worsen the contact ability of glue.

The wall must also be dry and clean before coating with plasterboard walls.


Demon frame method Mounting of drywall is used if the drops on the wall are equal to no more than 2 cm. Before the attachment, it is necessary to pre-perform measurements and cut the necessary pieces of drywall, then put point glue and attach to the wall.

Did you know? Plasterboard for the first time invented the owner of the Paper factory Augustine Sakette in the XIX century in the USA. Initially, the material consisted of 10 layers of paper, which were held with each other a thin layer of gypsum.

If the surface of the wall has large differences, then a frame method of mounting drywall is used. To do this, it is predetermined to mount a frame of a metal profile. To do everything as much as possible, use the level and plumb.

After the installation of drywall is over, it is necessary to start shuttering on the joints. For this purpose, a putty mass is applied to the joints, the special tape is attached from above, or the reinforcing mesh to which the finishing layer of the waterproof putty is applied.

After complete drying of the seams, they are processed by abrasive paper.

On top of the plasterboard, the primer is made by a special mixture.


The pluses of using drywall for alignment of the surface include:

  • relatively low price;
  • high mounting speed when using a frameless way;
  • ability to level walls with maximum curvature or need to hide pipes.
The disadvantages of the use of drywall are:
  • mounting complexity, if a frame method is used;
  • low noise insulating properties of material;
  • the possibility of deformation when the liquid or constant humidity is in between the wall and plasterboard.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary in order not to flood their neighbors or their home in the event of a breakthrough of pipes or other unforeseen situations.

Important! Be sure to use waterproofing if the house is made of foam blocks, as it should be especially carefully protected from moisture.

There are several ways of waterproofing: Ruberoid and liquid materials, so consider each way more.

Bulk

To the one best Materials For liquid waterproofing include liquid glass (which is capable of penetrating the surface treated) and liquid rubber.


More budget option Waterproofing is liquid glass.

You can use liquid waterproofing in three ways:

  1. Spraying. This method will allow the maximum to save the amount of waterproofing fluid and will accelerate the surface processing process. For it, you need to purchase a sprayer or sprinkler.
  2. Color. In order to use the method of color, acquire a conventional roller or a wide brush. Painting all surfaces manually - a longer process, but it does not require the use of expensive equipment.
  3. Pouring. This method is suitable only for floor waterproofing. For this, the liquid is simply poured into the prepared surface.
Apply liquid waterproofing with color and spraying is necessary in two stages: The first is the application of one layer of the solution on the floor and walls, the second is the repetition of the procedure after 6 hours after applying the first layer.


When the first layer of waterproofing is applied, in places of corners and joints produce an additional seal with a special waterproofing ribbon, which is attached on top of a non-frozen layer.

After the waterproofing is applied, it is necessary to wait two days and then resume work in the bathroom. Such measures are needed for the final drying of the applied coating.

The pluses of liquid waterproofing include:

  • obtaining a smooth layer after applying materials;
  • no joints, monolith;
  • maximum penetration and adhesion with floor;
  • high elasticity, cracking resistance;
  • maximum waterproof properties.

The minuses of liquid waterproofing include:

  • high price of materials used;
  • severe removal of funds from the surface if such a need arises;
  • the possibility of damage to liquid waterproofing due to the effects of solvents and substances with petroleum products.

Ruberoid

Ruberoid refers to the filtered materials that are attached to the surface with gas burner. This material before applying must be heated and then glued to the concrete floor.

Important! So that the grip with the floor was maximum, it is necessary to pre-cover the floor with bitumen mastic.

Before fixing the frontieroid to the floor, it is necessary to completely remove any contamination with a metal brush, cut off all irregularities.


Before laying the rubberoid, it is rolled and at least 72 hours are kept in such a state - it is necessary to prevent the bloody and lack of waves in the gluing process.

Roll Ruberoid is pre-cut according to the size of the floor, then roll into the roll in the invalid side. The place on the floor, where the waterproofing will initially be fastened, marked with chalk. After that, they smear the edge of the rubberoid mastic, with the floor they do the same manipulation. Next tightly press the rubberoid to the floor, achieving the complete smoothness of the surface.

Ruberoid sheets are placed on each other (at least 10 cm). This nuance must be taken into account in order to prevent the water to be seeping through the joints of the material.

To the pluses of waterproofing belongs:

  • cheap for material;
  • ease of removal of runneroid from the surface if necessary.


The disadvantages of the rubberoid include:

  • low elasticity, the possibility of damage due to mechanical impact;
  • low life if the waterproofing is incorrect;
  • the presence of joints on the surface through which water may be seized due to improper gluing technology;
  • toxicity of materials used and the need for constant ventilation of the room during operation.

Wall Design and Marking

Before stacking, it is necessary to make the wall markup and install the guides, In order to obtain smooth walls and cope with the task quickly.

Initially, tile guides are installed:this uses rack profile 66/42, 2 pieces. Measure the height of the wall and calculate the tile so that whole pieces of material are from above. Squeeze the number of entire rows of tiles from the top, and between the bottom near and the last spinning of the whole tile, mark the point where the guides will be installed. Next, you need to draw a line on which the guides will be attached on all four walls. It is better to do this with a laser level with the projector - it designs the lines at once on all four walls, but you can use the usual alcohol linear level.


When the lines are drawn, you must attach guides using a dowel. Do not regret the self-tapping screws to make guides as hard and immobilized.

After that, with the help of a pencil and level, it is necessary to draw vertical and horizontal lines, which will allow you to control the correctness of the installation of the tile - exactly the masonry.

Preparation of solution

As a solution for laying the base material, it is recommended to be stockponsing either by the self-cooked solution of the cement-glue mixture, or buy a professional dry mixture.

In order to make a solution of cement-adhesive mixture, it is necessary to use coarse-grained sand and cement, not lower than version 300. The number of cement and sand particles as a result should be 1: 5 (with a cement version 300-400) and 1: 6 (with version 500-600).


In order for the material to hold well, it is necessary to wash the part of the PVA glue in the prepared solution of cement 1/25.

The sand should be used as dry as possible so that it is easily sifted through the fine sieve. This process must be performed, to avoid falling into a solution of foreign particles represented by shells, small pebbles, clay pieces. Foreign elements will prevent normal tile attachment, and during tapping for better clutch with a wall it can crack.

Important! Cement for the preparation of the mixture must be used as much as possible. If it is stored for a long time, then loses its qualities by 40%– for the year of storage, and for 2 years of storage– up to 50%.

It is necessary to make the solution as follows: to 1 part of the cement to add from 3 to 6 parts of sand (depending on the cement brand), mix well among themselves. Next, a little water is added to the mixture, the composition is mixed again, the manipulation is done until the mixture acquires the consistency of the pasty mass.

An excellent alternative to cement-adhesive mixture is modern dry mixes that are much simplified by laying work.

Such mixtures make it possible to prepare a special glue solution for laying as quickly as possible and with minimal labor costs.


The means are different at the price, properties, percentage of various additives.

Choose them must be based on the amount you expect to spend. And in order to pick up the highest quality product, consult with the seller or a specialist in laying tiles.

Prepare the solution of the purchase mixture is easy, it is enough just to read the information on the package and do everything according to the instructions.

Process technology

The time has come the main stage - laying tiles on walls and floor cladding, which also have their own nuances and features, mandatory for consideration.

Laying of walls

In order for the tile on the wall at the wall symmetrically, it is necessary to decompose the bottom layer of the material along the wall. If all the tiles are completely included in one line along the wall, it is not necessary to cut it and you can begin to stack. If the last tile is completely not placed in one row with the rest, then it is necessary to cut it. In this case, the wall is separated by half, this place is noted, and the laying of the material begins with the center. Thus, the tile is laid on both sides of the line, while the whole pieces of material are placed. Then one piece is cut into two parts and stacked on both sides, where the material was not enough.


To comply with the interlocking seam between the tile, plastic crosses are installed, which are designed specifically for these purposes. Next, in the same way, you must fill the entire wall with tiles and go to laying the material on the other wall.

Important! It is worth noting that the glue on the tile is applied with a special gear spatula to ensure good grip of the material with the wall.

Facing a floor

Technology laying tiles on the floor is the same as on the walls. Initially, it is necessary to divide the floor to 2 parts, the whole tile first loses the center so that the cut material goes into the corners. If you can hide the cutting tile under the bath, do this.


Mark the pencil, where the whole tile will be, and where you post the cutting material, then start laying the entire parts of the tile. When the solution on which the whole tile was laid will completely freeze, and it can be moved along it, proceed to measurements and cutting all missing items. The area of \u200b\u200bthe area is recommended to numbered, and the same numbers put on the already cut parts of the tile, so as not to confuse and install all parts into place.

In the same way, it is recommended to bypass the obstacles if they are found on the way. First, measure the dimensions of the barrier and on which parts of the tile they will be placed, then apply "drawing" to the tile and cut the necessary items.

Grout tiled seams

At a minimum, 24 hours after the installation of the main material, it is recommended to start rubbing the seams using special solution Suitable color.

Initially, the seams are cleaned from glue residues, further using a rubber spatula, they are filled with grout.


After the time specified on the packing, it is necessary to remove the extra pieces of the mixture from the surface of the tile using a moisture sponge.


After complete drying, the solution is proceeded to the final part of purification with a soft tissue and a rigid sponge.

Important! So that the seams on the floor looked neat, do not choose too light shades grout.

In the same way, intercutric seams on the floor tile are also drained.


Thus, laying the tiles in the bathroom with their own hands is quite time-consuming and not easy taskwhich is unable to all men. If you comply with the technology and features of the processes performed, you can save time and do everything as much as possible.

Videos: Laying Tiles Pollar in the bathroom