A residential building with 2 floors is a classic of suburban construction. An additional floor of the building allows you to save free land on the site, which is quite important given the high cost of each hundred square meters. There is no need to spend more money if the construction budget is limited. This solution saves the customer from loans and mortgage agreements!
Another variant - attic house. For a dacha, such a project is simply ideal, but if a cottage is being built for permanent, all-season residence, and it is designed for a family of 4-6 people, it is important to get not increased originality and practicality, but the most comfortable conditions. With an increase in the number of residents, the need for space increases significantly.
Selected for a large family big house – 150-200 square meters and more, as well as on 2 and sometimes 3 floors!

Selection of technology and materials

Our team of craftsmen offers a house made of aerated concrete. IN modern construction, this is one of the most popular materials. The demand for it is increasing for a reason - aerated concrete has positive qualities that are ahead of concrete, brick and many other building materials!
Aerated concrete blocks are made from quartz sand, cement, lime and water, with the addition of aluminum powder to the mixture to foam the mass.
The recipe varies depending on the requirements for obtaining certain indicators of density, strength, frost resistance, and moisture permeability. In view of this, two main technologies for the production of aerated concrete blocks are used - autoclave and non-autoclave!

Advantages and characteristics of aerated concrete

  • The blocks are light in weight. The volumetric weight of the material is in the range of 300-1200 kg/m3. Brick has a volumetric weight of 1200 to 2000 kg/m3. Accordingly, comparisons can be made in terms of ease of loading and delivery, storage and transfer of material throughout the facility. But more importantly, calculate the load on the strip or monolithic foundation, which will be 2-3 times lower using aerated concrete;
  • The blocks are technologically advanced in processing and preparation for work and direct construction. They can be cut, scraped, grooved, formed into individual architectural elements a special tool that allows you to work manually;
  • Aerated concrete has enviable thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity coefficient of the material is 0.12 W/m°C in a dry state. But when wet, the indicators change in a negative direction, as in the case of other materials. Therefore, high-quality external protection aerated concrete!

It is also worth briefly citing other positive characteristics of gas blocks:

  • Fire resistance of the block – class A1;
  • Frost resistance of the block – F35;
  • Axial pressure – up to B2.5;
  • The material is environmentally friendly, soundproof, and does not rot!

Aerated concrete blocks are actively used for low-rise private housing construction in middle lane. This is one of the most suitable materials for severe winter weather according to many experienced builders.
A 400 mm wall with minimal insulation with basalt slabs is enough to significantly reduce heat loss, improving the energy efficiency of housing by 2-3 times. This is how you can build a warm home!

Construction of a two-story aerated concrete house

On initial stage a residential building project that meets the customer’s requirements is selected. It is being finalized and undergoing additional approval. After preliminary calculation and drawing up estimate documentation, a contract is concluded!

Preparing the area and purchasing materials

  • Development markings are carried out on the customer's private plot;
  • The territory is cleared of excess vegetation, temporary roads are laid, and soil is excavated;
  • A storage place is organized where construction materials are delivered and stored, ensuring proper safety conditions!

Foundation work

  • Laying drainage layers, insulation, damper pads, sand cushion for proper load transfer from the foundation to the ground;
  • The formwork is installed and the reinforcement frame is mounted. For the formwork structure, appropriate form-building materials are used without gaps or cracks. Thus, maximum effective conditions for the production of quality base. The loss of cement laitance is eliminated, the strength of the structure is ensured, as well as the high quality of the surfaces of the concrete monolith;
  • It is poured into the finished formwork concrete mixture corresponding to the loads and other class conditions. Concrete is vibrated to remove air from its structure, maximizing compaction;
  • Care is provided for the monolithic base after pouring the foundation - covering, moistening or heating, depending on the conditions!

Wall masonry

  • Production of a series of leveling masonry on the foundation, installation of waterproofing between the base material and the base. Limitation of capillary humidification ensures the necessary conditions for long-term service of the material;
  • Aerated concrete is laid, which is subsequently reinforced. Every reinforced row is equipped with steel reinforcement for bandaging the material, increasing the strength characteristics of wall structures, correct load distribution and the perception of various external factors. The groove for laying the reinforcement is formed by hand using a special mechanical wall cutter, the functionality of which allows you to set the desired groove size. Thanks to this, the masonry seam does not increase, which is limited by technology;
  • To fill the groove with embedded reinforcement, which is bent at the corners of the building and tied at the joints, assembly adhesive is used. It is carefully pressed into molds filled with reinforcement;
  • Reinforcement of aerated concrete is carried out every three rows. Laying blocks using special glue, with a minimum thickness of the seam, about 3 mm!

Partitions and lintels

  • When forming window and doorways concrete lintels are used;
  • The openings are reinforced to allow the installation of structures;
  • Inside an aerated concrete house, partitions are built according to the foundation grid, if a strip foundation was poured, or according to the markings of a monolithic slab. Bricks or blocks are used for this!

Floors between floors of a two-story block cottage

  • Upon completion of the first floor of the block house, an armored belt is poured - a monolithic reinforced concrete belt around the perimeter of the structure. To do this, the company’s craftsmen install prefabricated formwork, reinforce it and pour the concrete mixture;
  • Next, monolithic floors are poured or ready-made reinforced concrete structures are installed;
  • Construction continues with the construction of the second floor!

Roof of a block cottage

  • After forcing out the wall and partition structures, after pouring additional reinforced belts and laying the mauerlat with fastening to studs, the craftsmen install rafters and reinforcements, emergency connections, and install the sheathing for roofing work;
  • For this, timber, board, block, OSB, plywood are selected. The choice of materials depends on the type of roof, roof structure, roofing materials. Metal tiles, ondulin, slate, corrugated sheets, soft multi-layer roofing, seam or slate roofing can be used. Specialists carefully approach the calculation of the load from the roofing structure, taking into account the permissible snow loads in the region;
  • Skates, snow guards, heating elements and drainage system, other accessories!

Exterior decoration of a new block house

In accordance with project documentation, external surfaces are insulated and additional finishing is done, which is protective and decorative!

  • We choose for insulation block structures basalt insulation, which the best way has proven itself in this field. The material, with an average density of 80 kg/m3, is installed on the walls. To do this, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the thermal insulation, which is carefully pressed into the structure;
  • The slabs are installed on the surface according to the markings, followed by umbrella fastening to obtain a durable insulation layer without cold bridges;
  • Installation of insulating materials, as well as protective cladding of a residential building is being carried out. Facing bricks (requires preliminary calculation and preparation of the foundation), siding, wooden elements, composite materials. Often the customer, to save money on façade finishing works ah, the possibility of economical plastering of wall planes and their further painting is used;
  • Additionally, the blind area is poured with sealant laid between its surface and the base!

Interior decoration

  • In the final part of complex construction, the internal rough finish. The surface of aerated blocks, due to its structure, allows you to work with any materials. The blocks hold fasteners perfectly and also enable strong adhesion with dry mixes, standard DSP;
  • More often, the surface of wall planes and block partitions is plastered and leveled;
  • Simultaneously with this process, flooring is laid - standard and dry screeds, insulation, leveling, rough flooring made of boards, OSB or plywood sheets;
  • Craftsmen perform ceiling filing, shaping door arches, finalization of internal architecture, finishing of slopes;
  • At the final stage of construction and finishing, installation is carried out window systems, entrance and interior doors!

We suggest you choose one of the proposed block house projects, first communicate with company representatives, and receive ready-made design documents and cost estimates. In the near future we will be ready to start work and will deliver new house strictly within the agreed time frame!

Lightweight gas-block structures make it possible to build inexpensive two-story houses in the shortest possible time, which are very popular in suburban construction. The Domamo catalog offers a choice finished projects modern two-story houses made of aerated concrete with the possibility of individual design and turnkey contracting.

Features of two-story buildings made of aerated blocks

Aerated concrete is a unique material that has the strength and wear resistance of brick, the highest thermal efficiency and relatively low weight. Thanks to this set of properties, buildings made from it have almost universal use - they become reliable housing for year-round residence, country houses or economic zone.

Cottages made of aerated concrete blocks, built on 2 floors, combine:

  • Possibility of placement in small areas with a large internal area. The design of such a house may include many functional rooms with convenient zoning of space.
  • The sufficiency of a not too powerful foundation, for example, the choice of a simplified strip scheme.
  • Supplementing the building with such necessary elements outside the city as a private bathhouse and a garage.
  • Wide architectural and finishing possibilities,
  • Speed ​​of construction and low cost of finishing work.

Projects country houses made of aerated concrete can be made on 2 full floors or with an attic, which will be slightly smaller in area, but will provide even greater energy efficiency for the entire house. Expansion of the area can also be carried out through basement rooms and external terraces.

On the website you will find options for aerated concrete houses of various sizes, internal layout and finishing. The search can be carried out both using an advanced filter and using photos of exemplary works.

Today there are many materials for building walls. In addition, construction technology is always being improved, which ultimately leads to the emergence of new building materials with more favorable prices and performance characteristics. Thus, society has gradually reached the aerated block, which really has a lot to please.

The first advantages of this material are noticeable even at the design stage. We’ll talk about all the pros and cons, as well as how to build a structure from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands in this article.

Advantages and disadvantages

Aerated concrete blocks have a number of their own characteristics, both positive and not so good. The thing is that the material is affordable, anyone can buy it, and you need to work well with it so that the house can stand freely for many years.

Photos of aerated block houses can often be seen in in social networks, since this material is really in great demand. It's all about its advantages, and these include:

  • strength;
  • easy to use;
  • durability;
  • economy;
  • thermal insulation qualities.





Many people doubt the strength of the aerated block, but there is no reason to doubt it at all. The material resembles brick in appearance, only in large sizes. It is a dense structure, which, with proper care, does not collapse for a long time, the guaranteed service life is from thirty years.

Most often, the material is used for the construction of temporary buildings, as well as commercial premises. Many people wonder what is better than a foam block or a gas block for a home, but as practice shows, in terms of quality there are no complaints about either option.

But this does not mean at all that the material is not suitable for construction. residential buildings. It's all about care and proper construction, but multi-storey building It is not recommended to build from aerated block.

The material does not crumble, which makes it really convenient to work with; it is also lightweight, you can freely lift it with your hands and build walls. Building a house from aerated block is a pleasure, according to experienced builders.

As for durability, the gas block is truly durable with proper care. It all depends on the weather conditions where the building is planned to be built. Without protection from water, a house will serve faithfully for decades, but if you protect the structure from moisture, it can last for centuries. It is recommended to carry out the procedure during the construction stage.

Gozoblok is distinguished by its economy both in the purchase of material and in its further use. This material is considered one of the cheapest, since its production uses less complex technology.

In addition, there are many suppliers of material on the market who compete well with each other, which ultimately leads to low cost of the material. In addition, you can save a lot on heating costs. Practice has shown that owners of houses built from other materials pay much more for heating.

This is because the gas block has excellent heat-insulating qualities. Works on both sides - does not release warm air from the inside and lets the cold in from the outside.

A wall made of aerated block must be improved, since under the influence of weather conditions all the thermal insulation benefits will disappear over time. Experts recommend thinking about this at the design stage.





Stage-by-stage construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks

As already mentioned, building a house from an aerated block is not difficult, and basic construction skills are quite enough. When building yourself, it is recommended to use the aerated concrete block calculator for your home.

The design of such a building is not very different from buildings made of other materials and includes the following stages of work:

  • site selection;
  • design;
  • foundation laying;
  • walling;
  • finishing.

When choosing a site, it is important to pay attention to the soil. In general, aerated block walls themselves are not heavy, so there are no special requirements for the soil.

However, we should not forget that this is still a house and a plot of land that must be selected suitable for construction. Most often, such houses are built on dacha areas, but they can also be found in cities - in both cases this is acceptable.

At the design stage, you need to figure out the area of ​​the house and decide how many rooms there will be. It is not recommended to build huge buildings, although the foundation allows this.

Maintaining a building in the required condition is much more difficult, and this also complicates communications, which are also considered at the design stage. It is also better to immediately calculate how many gas blocks are needed for the house.

It is better to take this step seriously, as you can easily calculate the quantity of the option to use, as well as consider various saving options or choose ready-made options projects of houses made of aerated blocks.

Laying the foundation will require a little more knowledge as well as effort. This stage is considered the most difficult and is no exception when working with gas-block houses.

It is recommended to seek help from professionals who will help you build a truly reliable foundation that can support the structure for many years, or immediately order a turnkey house made of aerated concrete blocks.

Building walls is not difficult. Cottage It can be built from aerated block in a matter of time. It is important to maintain the evenness of the masonry so that there are no inclinations. Since aerated concrete blocks themselves are lightweight, putting them into one structure is not a difficult task.

Basic construction skills will be required to complete these steps. Be sure to take into account the connectors in the walls for windows and doors, ventilation and communications, so that later you do not have to destroy the newly built wall.

Finishing work is considered the most expensive task imaginable in the construction of aerated block houses. Interior decoration can be made of any materials, but it is important to remember the fear of water blocks. Moisture can come not only from the street, but also from inside the room, so you need to think about protection from moisture at the finishing stage.

In summing up, it is important to note the latter - you need to understand which is the best aerated block for construction. Today there are many manufacturers who can offer many options for the same building material. Therefore, be sure to contact the manufacturer to find out the differences, as well as all the advantages of one block from another.






Photos of aerated block houses

4. Project
The layout was initially tailored to certain requirements. The kitchen should be corner, one side should face the entrance to the site and the area in front of the house, the second - towards the bathhouse and the area in front of the bathhouse. This was all done for my wife, because I see how difficult it is for her to manage the house alone with the children. With this arrangement, she will be able to cook in the kitchen and observe almost the entire territory of the site so that she can let the children out for a walk. The area not covered by the view from the kitchen includes only two rear sides of the house, where the fence is 7 and 4 meters away, respectively. The rest of the layout was drawn based on the location of the kitchen and the entrance to the house from the main (front) facade. Thus, the layout of the 1st floor was born. I decided to make the second floor a full-fledged one, because I needed 3 rooms of good size, a bathroom, and in the future more than one. I didn’t make it into an attic, because it’s more expensive to insulate and there’s less volume, but I decided to make it cold attic, which can later be converted into an attic 3rd floor. The house is big enough for four, although effective area the first floor is just over 60 sq. m. But firstly, we plan not to stop with two children, and secondly, expanding the boundaries of the house to increase the area was already irrational due to the location on the site. In addition, the 2nd floor will remain cold and completely unfinished for financial reasons. And prepare 60 sq. m. for living seems to me not a very difficult matter and I hope I have enough finances to do it before the cold weather.
Floors of the first floor: anticipating this question, I will write the following. Since the foundation was formed from the advice of experienced people and was calculated by the designer, it was not discussed. I have a slab with the ribs up. What can be done: overlapping is quite an expensive proposition, so I decided to simply fill the space between the ribs with sand to the required level. The asking price is 4 KAMAZ sand trucks, 4 thousand rubles each. A screed would be needed on any floor, so I don’t include it in the price. Well, still work. Let there be 20 thousand ready-made floors for screeding with the ability to make small cavities for storing something. Wooden floor I didn’t consider it because I will be heating it through heated floors without radiators. And wood is more expensive, less durable and requires maintenance.
The design part of the project is missing, but here I used Ytong support - I used the album technical solutions and consultations hotline and Ytong designers. This is all unusually free for the Russian average person, but knowing the German mentality, I don’t see a catch in this. I think the high cost of Ytong pays for all these services.
The result is a project that I painfully drew while simultaneously studying Archicad, which has changed 100 times and still some points have not been determined. I must say that this has already had its effect on the construction site - I now have an extra row of blocks on the 1st floor (the height of the floor on the outside of the wall is 13 blocks or 3.25 meters. I plan to make the useful floor height 2.95 m. You will get a thick floor (due to additional backfilling with sand). The main internal parameters are the height to the window sill in the living quarters and kitchen - 90 cm (except for the bathroom - 140 cm and the window 80 by 100 cm), window height 150 cm, window width from 130 to 100 cm. 200 cm depending on the layout. The height from the ceiling to the top edge of the window is 50 cm (2 blocks). I had not yet thought through the ventilation and chimneys in the project; at the moment construction began, the need for all this dawned on me and I allocated space for two ventilation and chimneys. shafts and laid reinforcement in the ribs (outlets) to increase the ribs in the place where these shafts will be installed, so that they could be built of brick if necessary.
I provided communication inputs and outputs in the slab: 1 sewerage system, 1 backup sewerage system through which the plastic pipe with water and 1 plastic pipe 40 mm for electrical cable. I plan to install a septic tank due to finances at the end of construction, since this is not the most important thing for entering the house. Our bathhouse is equipped with a toilet with a shower (there is a separate septic tank for the bathhouse). The cost of a septic tank with installation is about 100 thousand rubles. I learned from us in Kubinka - the production of septic tanks Yubas - Eurobion. I thought it was more important to use the last 100 thousand to move into the house than to have a septic tank and stay on the street.
The ceiling between the 1st and 2nd floors is made of reinforced concrete slabs. Fast, angry and reliable. The solution is clear if you imagine that there will be 3 children’s rooms above your head. All life! I think there is no room for error in terms of sound insulation. And then it will be necessary to modify the floor of the 2nd floor.
The result is that I did the project myself (except for the foundation), construction is planned in the mode of maximum rational economy.

5. Savings
Nobody believes me that for 1 million rubles I can build a house and live in it. I really won’t be able to build a house for 1 million. But theoretically I won’t be able to find more than 1.5 million, so this is my life’s task. I must say that this is real. It’s realistic in the sense that you need to understand where the money goes on construction and where you need to save. And I found this place. These are builders and they are paid for their work.
I met on the forum with, whose house is located 2 km from my village in neighboring SNT. The house is good. Also 2 full floors, size 9x9. Ytong material. In two years, he invested about 3 million in it. And he already lives in it. And approximately 40% of this amount went to pay for the work. Thus, in reality the house would have cost him no more than 2 million rubles if he had built it himself. And as you probably understand, I made a naive, in your opinion, decision to build myself. I agree that this is a utopia. But it’s worth thanking God, because this plan has slowly begun to come true. I paid 25 thousand rubles for the work on the foundation. I always have an Uzbek working at a construction site at a rate of 1,000 rubles per day. But the bulk of the work is done by my father-in-law, whom I already mentioned. Apparently this house will also serve as a monument to him, since he is the one who actually built it. I work on weekdays, leave for Moscow at 7-00 and arrive at the construction site at 19-30. Those who travel far to work will understand me; I arrive pretty tired. But I’m joining in the construction, this is a house for me and my family, who now lives in a village with an outdoor toilet and a Russian stove. This regime is very draining. I have already lost 7 kg in a month, despite the fact that excess weight I had almost none (well, maybe a maximum of 5 kg at the upper limit of normal). I won’t say that this is harmful to health, because now I’m normal, but there is a slight lack of sleep, because we work until the last minute, until the midge completely overcomes. In total, with such forces it is possible to erect the 1st floor under the ceiling, taking into account the cost of work on the foundation - no more than 50 thousand rubles. I believe in miracles! Probably my debt to my father-in-law in financial equivalent will be about half a million rubles if he manages the whole house in this mode. And morally, I am grateful to him for the rest of my life!
The result is that if you manage to build it yourself, the economic plan for the construction looks realistic.

A new trend in construction - use for construction low-rise buildings cellular concrete blocks. These include aerated concrete and foam concrete. Particularly lively discussions are taking place around aerated concrete, its characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Despite conflicting opinions (any building material has pros and cons), aerated concrete has proven itself well in private construction.

Cottages and houses built from aerated concrete blocks have been standing for several decades and will confidently stand for at least a hundred more. Despite the fact that building a house from aerated concrete is cheaper than from brick. Inexpensive does not mean bad, by the way, sometimes quite the opposite. Of course, such a service life indicator is only possible if standards and regulations are observed. And the recommended technology for building an aerated concrete house has been taken as an axiom.

But, if professionals are guided by many years of experience, then beginners who want to do the work themselves need step-by-step instruction from A to Z, from the foundation to the roof.


All processes of building a private house are regulated by such standards as:

GOST 31359-2007 “Autoclave-hardening cellular concrete”;

GOST 10884-94 “Thermomechanically strengthened reinforcing steel for reinforced concrete structures”;

GOST 9561-91 “Reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs for buildings and structures”;

SP 22.13330.2011 “Foundations of buildings and structures”;

Construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks

To achieve a good result, even without construction experience, you need to do the work in stages; below are step-by-step instructions, which were compiled based on practical experience and feedback from owners.

Stage 1 - Calculation of the amount of material per house

How much building material will be needed, how thick the walls should be, how many blocks, glue and reinforcement to prepare.

Material for construction:

  • fittings with a diameter of 6-8-10 mm;
  • adhesive solutions for aerated concrete masonry;
  • material for the foundation: concrete, crushed stone, sand, reinforcement, piles, pillars, etc. The quantity and type are determined by the type of foundation;
  • floor slabs (if necessary);
  • lumber (for the roof rafter system and formwork);
  • roofing material and related materials (waterproofing film, plywood, OSB, hardware, etc.).

Thickness of aerated concrete walls - calculation

The number of blocks is affected by the thickness of the aerated concrete wall, which is determined at the design stage.

  • climatic conditions (amount of precipitation, wind strength and direction, average annual temperature. Data are taken from directories of the architecture department);
  • type of adhesive composition. When using aerated concrete adhesive (ready-made masonry mixture), the layer thickness is 2-3 mm, which reduces heat loss. When using traditional cement mortar, it increases;
  • heating power, which varies depending on the region. For example, in Moscow and the region the power is 6,000. The power is determined through the GSOP indicator (degree-days of the heating period) and for each region is indicated in the directory (to obtain data, you should contact the architecture department at the construction site). In private construction, this indicator is determined by the power of the house heating system specified in the design documentation;
  • density of the aerated concrete block (grade D300, 400, 500, 600), which determines its thermal conductivity. For example, with a GSOP of 6,000, the heat transfer wall resistance standard is at least 3.28 (m2 °C/W). Data for determination in a specific region can be gleaned from SNiP 02/23/2003. Some data is shown in the table.

The heat capacity indicator for aerated concrete brand D600 (density at normal humidity 600 kg/m3) is 0.14 m2 °C/W.

When calculating the wall thickness, the heat transfer resistance indicator for the exterior finishing material is taken into account. For example, for gypsum plaster it is 0.4 W/(m°C), for cement 0.58 W/(m°C).

To avoid confusion in dimensions, please note: heat transfer resistance (m2 °C/W), the reciprocal of the heat capacity (W/(m°C)).

Note. With an increase in humidity from 5 to 12%, the thermal conductivity will increase to 0.21.

You can simplify the calculations using the table

Calculation of the number of aerated concrete blocks per house

The main consumable material when building a house is aerated blocks.

How to calculate how many blocks are needed for a house?

Using the formula (result for load-bearing walls, in pieces):

Rbl. = ((L*H - Spr) / Sbl) * k

Rbl.- number of blocks of a given thickness;
L- wall length;
H- wall height;
Spr- area of ​​openings (windows + doors);
Sbl- block area;
k- coefficient that determines the waste of aerated concrete for trimming. For a house with a simple configuration it is 5%. For more complex structures - up to 15%.

Please note that the thickness of the wall is determined by the thickness of the block. That is, in this way you can calculate the number of pieces of aerated concrete blocks with a masonry thickness of one block. If the walls are laid in two blocks, the resulting value should be multiplied by 2.

Calculation of the amount of aerated concrete for internal partitions is carried out in a similar way.

Calculation of reinforcement for reinforcing aerated concrete masonry

The required amount of reinforcing rod for reinforcing walls in linear meters can be calculated using the formula:

Ra = 2*L*H / 4h

Ra- length of reinforcement;
L- wall length;
H- wall height;
h- the height of one aerated concrete block;
4 - masonry reinforcement is performed in every fourth row;
2 - the reinforcement is laid in two rows in each row of aerated concrete masonry.

Calculation of adhesive for aerated concrete

The calculation is related to the glue consumption, which depends on the recommended seam thickness and the size of the gas block. On average, it takes 1 bag (25 kg) of glue to lay 1 cubic meter of aerated concrete blocks.

Foundation calculation

The amount of concrete, piles or other materials for the foundation is determined based on its type and parameters (depth, width, length).

Tools for building a house from aerated concrete

  • level, plumb line, square;
  • hand saw (preferably with pobedit tips, otherwise a regular one will quickly become unusable);
  • plane, grater or sanding board;
  • mallet;
  • manual wall chaser for aerated concrete (designed for cutting grooves for reinforcement, anchors, wiring of communications);
  • brush for removing dust after the wall chaser;
  • drills - screw and feather;
  • container and drill with an attachment (mixer) for mixing the solution;
  • trowel, spatula for applying mortar or carriage for applying glue.
  • a guide template (corner) will simplify the cutting of aerated concrete blocks in door or window openings, as well as slopes and when forming semicircular elements.

Simultaneously with the calculations and purchase of material, the site for future construction is cleaned - garbage removal, removal of trees, removal, if necessary, of a layer of soil, etc.

Stage 2 - Selecting and pouring the foundation

The construction of a foundation for a house made of aerated concrete blocks is a prerequisite that determines the longevity of the functioning of the building. Despite the lightness of cellular concrete, you should not think that any type of foundation will do.

The choice will be influenced by several factors: region of residence (determines the depth of soil freezing), soil condition, level of occurrence groundwater, relief land plot for construction, owner's capabilities, etc. More detailed review types of foundation for aerated concrete will make it possible to make an informed decision taking into account economic and technical factors.

Stage 3 - Basement and blind area

Considering the hygroscopicity of aerated concrete, it is obvious that it needs protection from all sides. On the foundation side, the role of protector is played by the plinth and blind area.

Despite the fact that the minimum height of the foundation plinth above the ground according to SNiP II-22-81 is considered to be 500 mm for a hard blind area (concrete, asphalt) and 300 for a soft one (), in the case of aerated concrete it is better to increase this parameter. According to user reviews, the height of the plinth for a house made of aerated concrete should be 500-800 mm for soft and hard blind areas, respectively. At the same time, the majority believes that it is not worth doing at all.

It is preferable to use special glue for laying gas blocks. It has several advantages over the solution: the ability to make a thinner layer (reduce the area of ​​heat loss), simplify the mixing of glue, and make the seam visually neater. You can read more about this in the book by A.S. Gorshkova “The influence of mortar joints of masonry on the parameters of thermal uniformity of aerated concrete walls”

Separately, it should be said about how to properly apply glue to the gas block to avoid squeezing it out.

How to lay aerated concrete blocks correctly

An adhesive mixture with the consistency of thick sour cream is applied to the pre-wetted horizontal surface of the masonry wall made of aerated concrete blocks using a spatula, trowel or carriage. Then the masonry mixture is leveled with a notched trowel, which has a width equal to the width of the block. If the gas block has a tongue-and-groove installation system, this is enough. If the aerated concrete block is ordinary, glue is also applied to the vertical surface of the masonry.

Next, a block is installed on the solution. It needs to be laid correctly, and the installation accuracy must be checked with a level. If the block has hand grips, install the block, fill the joint with water and then fill with adhesive mixture. If necessary, the block can be adjusted by tapping it using a rubber hammer.

Note. In summer, the masonry is protected by covering it with film. Thus, the drying rate of the solution is reduced and its uniform hardening is ensured.

Blocks can be laid at a temperature not lower than - 5°C (using winter glue) and not lower than 0°C (using summer glue or concrete mortar).

Note. The blocks can be adjusted within 5 to 15 minutes after laying (depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations); after this period, the block only needs to be knocked out and re-glued.

Do-it-yourself technology for laying aerated concrete blocks

It starts with preparing the base. The first row of gas blocks is laid on a layer of waterproofing and checked for horizontalness. That is why a cement-sand mortar is always used for laying the first row, even if the laying is done with glue or foam. Cement mortar is less demanding on the surface and allows you to compensate for its unevenness. In this case, the surface must be cleaned of dirt. There is no need to moisten the surface before installing the first row.

Note. If during the installation of aerated concrete blocks excess mixture protrudes from the seams, they are allowed to harden and only then removed with a spatula.

Installation of blocks begins from the corners, between which a rope - a beacon - is pulled. It’s good to have a level, but if not, then a rope is a classic. It will serve as a guide for correct laying. To avoid sagging of the cord, you can install additional intermediate beacons. Naturally, it will be difficult to ensure an ideal horizontal line, but the difference in height between the corners should not exceed 30 mm.

As the work progresses, the need may arise for additional aerated concrete blocks - parts of the block. They are easy to cut with a handsaw or grinder. Please note that the sawing work is very dusty.

In this case, the length of the trimmed blocks installed in the corners should not be less than 115 mm.

After the first row is laid, it is checked with a level and leveled. Laying the first row of aerated concrete blocks is the most difficult, but if done correctly, further work is simplified.

Note. After laying the first row, you need to stop working for 3-4 hours. During this time it will dry out cement mixture between the foundation/basement and the first row of aerated concrete blocks.

Stage 5 - Reinforcement of aerated concrete masonry

To increase the load-bearing capacity of aerated concrete walls, reinforcing materials are used.

Do I need to reinforce aerated concrete walls?

Yes, aerated concrete walls need to be strengthened; for this purpose, horizontal and vertical reinforcement of the masonry is performed. Reinforcement pitch aerated concrete walls- 1 meter or every 4th row (if the block height is 250 mm), every third row (if the block height is 300-350 mm).

To lay the reinforcement, a groove is made in the aerated concrete (slot, recess). The grooves are made using a manual wall chaser (in professional construction they use an electric wall chaser or an angle cutting machine). According to the technology, two recesses (grooves) with a depth and width of 2.5 cm are made at a distance of 5-6 cm from the outer edge of the gas block. One rod of reinforcement that will go through the middle of the block is enough, but it’s better to be safe.

How much to make a groove for aerated concrete reinforcement

  • block thickness less than 250 mm, one reinforcement rod is sufficient;
  • 250-500 - two rods;
  • more than 500 - three rods.

What type of reinforcement should be used to reinforce aerated concrete masonry?

The cross-section of the reinforcement should be 0.02% of the masonry area. From practice, the optimal diameter of the reinforcement is 6-8 mm. A400-A500 fittings are used.

How to reinforce aerated concrete masonry

Before laying the reinforcement, the recesses must be cleaned of dust and moistened, this will increase the adhesion of the glue. Then the groove must be filled with the mixture, the metal must be laid and the remaining mixture must be removed.

The reinforcement is laid with an overlap of 30-40 mm. To do this, additional grooves are cut to expand the main one. And the ends of the reinforcement are recessed into aerated concrete.

Aerated concrete walls with such monolithic reinforcement will not fall apart.

A new trend in construction aerated concrete houses is the replacement of metal rods with galvanized reinforcing tape (perforated strip). The advantage of the reinforcement strip is that there is no need to groove the walls. Thus, the speed of construction increases and its dustiness decreases.

Reinforcing strip for blocks is sold in galvanized steel strips (3 and 6 m) or rolls (50 kg). Its width ranges from 25 to 100 mm, thickness 4-8 mm. The cost of the strip is 70-95 rubles/kg.

The reinforcing tape is laid directly on the block and covered with a layer of glue with a thickness equal to the thickness of the strip.

Laying aerated concrete in subsequent rows

Performed with bandaging of masonry seams. Bandaging is the displacement of the blocks of the next row relative to the blocks of the previous one. The ideal displacement value is 50%, the minimum is 80 mm.

The second and subsequent rows are also laid from the corner. The installation of each block is checked by level. After laying the row, the blocks are processed and the frozen excess mortar is removed

Sloping rows (for example, laying a pediment made of aerated concrete) can be made in two ways. The first is to lay out the rows, and then saw off (trim) the protruding parts. The second is to cut the gas block to size before laying it (a longer method, but simpler and more economical).

Bandaging aerated concrete masonry

The formation of internal walls simultaneously with the laying of load-bearing walls can be done in three ways; the dressing nodes are shown in the figure.

Method 1- dressing across the entire width of the block

Method 2- bandaging 150 mm deep into the outer wall

Method 3- (butt joint) construction of internal walls can be completed after completion of the construction of load-bearing walls.

Laying partitions and internal walls from aerated concrete

Interior partitions are laid out in blocks 100-200 mm thick (partition aerated concrete). The thickness of the block affects the choice of the height of the partition. Using a block with a thickness of 100 mm, you can lay a wall up to 3 m high; with a 200 mm block, the height will increase to 5 m. Partitions laid without ligation with load-bearing walls are attached to the external walls using T-shaped anchors.

After how many rows should aerated concrete be reinforced?

Reinforcement is done for every fourth row and window sill row of aerated concrete.

The execution technology is similar to the reinforcement of the first row. This frequency will increase the resistance of the house to loads. After all, metal, unlike aerated concrete, has a good resistance to variable loads.

Note. Although interior walls are not exposed to external factors; it is also recommended to reinforce aerated concrete blocks.

Aerated concrete lintels

Features of installing windows in a house made of aerated concrete. Installation of window blocks involves reinforcing the window sill row of aerated concrete blocks. Saving at this stage can end in disaster.

The figure shows how to make a lintel over a window from aerated concrete (device diagram)

Arched, window or door openings need reinforcement. Reinforcing them with a metal corner is unacceptable. This will create an additional bridge of cold.

It will be correct to install lintels in aerated concrete walls using U-blocks.

U-shaped gas blocks (tray) are installed in openings, and are also used as formwork under monolithic beams and monolithic lintels (which are manufactured on site). Supports are installed under the U-blocks, which are not removed until the adhesive solution has completely set. Taking into account the fact that the cavity of the lintel is filled with the mixture and reinforcement, it is recommended to leave the supports for a week until they completely harden.

U-blocks are installed with the wide part facing out. The resulting cavity is filled with reinforcement, arranging a 5-6-row reinforcement cage.

How to make an aerated concrete lintel - video

Installation of expansion joints in aerated concrete walls

Reinforcement of aerated concrete masonry does not protect the house from cracks; metal allows you to redistribute the load. More reliable protection is the installation of expansion (temperature) joints.

The construction of an expansion joint is mandatory in the following cases:

Expansion joints need to be sealed, for example, with mineral wool. From the inside (from the room side), they are sealed with any vapor-tight elastic material, and from the outside (from the street) they are treated with sealant for external use and a stripping is installed. No reinforcement is performed at the location where the seam is constructed. The design of the temperature expansion joint is shown in the photo.

Note. During the construction process, unused gas blocks must be in a packaged state. After completing the construction fragment, the aerated concrete masonry is also protected by the released film. This approach has two advantages: it will ensure uniform drying of the adhesive mixture and protect the aerated concrete from moisture in the morning or in case of unexpected rain.

Stage 6 - Interfloor ceilings in a house made of aerated concrete

Construction two-story house made of aerated concrete means the installation of overlap between floors. The information will also be useful for those who are planning a basement under a house or cottage (installation of the first floor will be required).

Which floors are best for aerated concrete houses?

When choosing a material for flooring, you don’t have to limit yourself, because aerated concrete allows you to use any of those on the market. The most popular are wooden and monolithic floors; the former are practiced more often.

To do this, you need to make a circular (around the perimeter of the building) armored belt on aerated concrete under the wooden floor beams. To make a reinforcing belt, U-blocks are used, into which wooden beams are inserted at 200-250 mm. It is advisable that the stop length wooden beam equal to its height. The lumber is insulated, while its ends remain open.

Interfloor floor slabs for aerated concrete houses

A monolithic ceiling does not require an armored belt.

To cover the first floor you can use:

Aerated concrete floor slabs

The characteristics of the material depend on its purpose and are presented in the table

The dimensions of aerated concrete slabs are given in the table

Cost from 3,000 to 10,000 rubles/piece depending on the size and purpose.

Hollow-core reinforced concrete slabs (reinforced concrete)

The marking of reinforced concrete slabs depending on their purpose is shown below (GOST 9561-91).

Decoding the marking of floor slabs: for example, “PK 49-12-8”: the letters indicate the type of slab, the index after the letters indicates the dimensions of the slab (unit of measurement - decimeter), the number after the hyphen is the calculated vertical load (in 100 kg / cm2 ) and class of reinforcement.

The dimensions of reinforced concrete slabs are given in the table

The cost of reinforced concrete slabs ranges from 3,000 to 18,000 rubles/piece, depending on the size and purpose.

Stage 7 - Roof under a house made of aerated concrete

The rafter system is arranged depending on the type of roof and the selected roofing material. It is mandatory to attach the pitched roof to the gas block using a Mauerlat.

Stage 8 - Warm contour of aerated concrete house

Warm home contouring is a general term that refers to the installation of windows as well as the filling of doorways. Windows and doors are installed in prepared openings in accordance with installation technology.

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete

Based on the characteristics of aerated concrete, it can be noted that the use of thermal insulation material is optional. The high porosity of the material suggests that a house made of aerated concrete will be warm on its own.

But there are places in the masonry to which this rule does not apply. These include:

  • ends of floor slabs;
  • foundation;
  • roof;
  • window and door openings.

All these places are a real source of heat loss in a house made of aerated concrete. To exclude them, you need to use thermal insulation material. At the same time, soft insulation will allow the aerated concrete to breathe, and hard insulation will require a device forced ventilation in the cottage.

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

Whether it is necessary or not is decided taking into account the region, block thickness (D300, 375, 400) and capabilities. If a traditional method was used for laying aerated concrete blocks concrete mortar- insulation must be performed. Because The thickness of the seam is large, and together they create a significant area through which heat escapes.

Stage 9 - Exterior decoration of aerated concrete house

Exterior finishing is not a necessary step, because aerated concrete itself can withstand moisture and other atmospheric phenomena without damage. But, if wet concrete freezes, it loses its properties and can become covered with a network of unpleasant cracks. To eliminate the likelihood of such events developing, as well as to make the cottage more beautiful appearance resort to lining aerated concrete walls on the outside.

Material for exterior finishing of an aerated concrete house:

  • or plastic panels;
  • facing brick or natural stone. In this case, it is necessary to provide for an increase in the load on the foundation at the design stage;
  • . This is the most popular method of finishing a house made of aerated concrete.

When choosing a material, it is important that it allows ventilation of the walls and has properties such as frost resistance and water resistance.

Stage 10 - Interior decoration of aerated concrete house

Provides for finishing work indoors, finishing walls, wiring communications, installing heating appliances, etc.

Building a house from aerated concrete with your own hands - video

In conclusion, a few words about how long it will take to build a house from aerated blocks and how much construction will cost.

Construction time for a house made of aerated concrete

The construction period consists of the duration of its individual stages:

  • foundation installation - can take from 2 weeks to a year (when pouring strip foundation, it is recommended to wait a year for the concrete to gain strength);
  • box - construction of load-bearing walls and partitions - 2-5 weeks;
  • formation of a warm contour - 3-4 weeks will be spent on installing all windows, doors, flooring and insulation;
  • exterior finishing - 3-6 weeks;
  • wiring of communications - at least a month, including approval by all authorities;
  • interior decoration - ad infinitum.

On average, according to user reviews, the construction of a house made of aerated concrete takes 5-6 months. Craftsmen will complete this work faster, from 2 months, depending on the complexity of the project.

The duration of the work is significantly influenced by the complexity of the house design, the degree of mechanization of the work, the experience and number of performers involved in the construction.

How much does it cost to build a house from aerated concrete?

What does the cost of construction consist of:

  1. price of materials;
  2. purchase of tools, rental (rental) or purchase of equipment;
  3. costs of material delivery and waste removal;
  4. cost of work.

To summarize, building a two-story aerated concrete house with your own hands with dimensions of 6 by 9 and a height of 6.5 m will cost approximately 680 thousand rubles (without finishing work).

Conclusion

Having prepared theoretically, you can safely begin to practice - building a cottage or house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands.