Installation of heated floors is possible in rooms with high ceilings. Most often they are installed in the bathroom, but heated floors under tiles can be installed throughout the entire area of ​​the apartment.

There are several heating methods that need to be selected individually, depending on the height of the ceilings, the condition of the wiring and water pressure in the apartment or country house. The most popular heating mats, which are easy to install.

In this article we looked at the basic rules for laying infrared and cable heated floors. They also provided detailed instructions on how to set up a heating system under tiles using heating mats. Material supplied step by step photos and video recommendations from specialists on laying heated floors.

Before you start choosing a floor heating system, you need to consider that they have limitations. Despite the fact that heating systems can completely replace heating in an apartment, this cannot be done according to Russian legislation.

These restrictions are due to a number of reasons:

  1. It is only allowed to use in apartments, and mass use in the house similar systems leads to increased load on the electrical network.
  2. Mass or partial transition to electric heating leads to an imbalance in the heat supply system in the house.

Since the floor will not be used as the main source of heat in the apartment, you can save on its installation. The saving lies in laying the heating cable or film only in those places that are free from furniture.

This will reduce the consumption of thermal energy, which will make it more economical in the long term, as well as at a time when purchasing building materials and installation

In a private home, the possibilities for using this technology are much wider. Depending on the available energy sources, you can choose an acceptable option between water and electrically heating

If the house is equipped with autonomous sources of electricity, such as or, it is undoubtedly worth making a choice in favor of electric ones, i.e. cable or infrared heating systems.

If electricity is supplied through power lines, then using an electric heating option for a private home will be very expensive. In that case, it is better to make a choice in favor. It will last about 35 years, after which it will require replacement.

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Installation of mats and installation of control system

The process of installing electrical mats is simpler and faster than installing cables. It is enough to place them on the heating area, which was determined when drawing up the diagram.

The cable will have to be laid on a mounting tape, which consists of metal fasteners that are fixed into the floor screed. When laying the cable, it is necessary to make turns of the same width

This will ensure an even level of heating of the floor surface. It is not recommended to cut the cable during installation.

After laying the cable you need to install. It performs an important function - maintaining the set temperature flooring.

This allows you to reduce energy consumption, since the heating will periodically turn off when the set temperature is reached. If the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the user-specified mode, the heating will automatically turn on.

To install the control unit in the wall, you need to drill a hole of the required diameter. There must be a source of electricity close to the installation site of the unit. It could be a socket

The hole should be located above 30 cm from the floor surface. A vertical channel is drilled down from the hole where the corrugation for the temperature sensor will be installed.

The opposite end of the corrugation should be located between the turns of the heating cable at an equal distance. If this rule is not followed, the sensor readings will be overestimated.

When connecting the heating cable to the control unit, you must follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer. Before connecting, you need to check the resistance of the wires with a special device.

Rules for laying infrared heated floors

Despite the structural differences, it is installed just as easily as electric mats. But there is a difference between them. When connecting a film heater, parallel rather than serial connection is used.

From a constructive point of view it is more reliable way, since if one module fails, the rest will continue to function.

This floor has the advantage of reducing energy consumption due to its reduced consumption compared to electric mats. The film is sold in rolls and purchased in quantities required for the heating area. The film can be cut, but only in those places where it is permitted by the manufacturer

The film must be laid with a slight overlap, strictly following the markings. The modules are fastened together with masking tape. This is a temporary method of fastening, since after pouring the self-leveling floor there will be no need for fastening.

We discussed the features of film type heating in more detail in.

Installation guide for electric underfloor heating

The quality of the coating depends on the condition of the base on which it is to be laid. The work should begin by dismantling the old coating. Everything must be dismantled, including the old screed.

To work you will need a bumper. It is also necessary to think in advance about how to transport and where to remove old concrete. Dumping construction waste into waste bins is prohibited

After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove all small debris and dust. After this, you need to inspect the floor area and if there are cracks, they need to be repaired. When the floor surface is prepared, you can begin waterproofing and insulation.

Stage #1 – installation of insulation under the electric floor

Insulation must be laid on the prepared base. It is preferable to use cork sheets. They have sufficient density and do not sag under the weight of the screed, as happens with expanded polystyrene.

The use of low-density insulation will lead to the need to dismantle the finished floor due to depreciation of the material.

Cheap polystyrene foam causes the screed under the tiles to crack. This inevitably leads to peeling and damage. tiles. First, small cracks appear, and then the tiles peel off

The insulation is attached to the surface by gluing it onto bitumen mastic. Through the use of this material, not only fixation of cork sheets is achieved, but also waterproofing.

The service life of heated floors also depends on the quality of gluing. After waiting 5-6 hours, you can proceed to pouring the screed. The thickness of the screed must be at least 3 cm.

When using a self-leveling floor, there is no need for leveling by rule, as happens with self-mixed cement mortars. After work, you need to leave the surface until completely dry, approximately 3-4 days.

Stage #2 – laying heating mats

After the filling solution has hardened, you can begin installing the heated floor under the tiles. First, you need to outline with chalk the places where the mats will not be installed. This will help you navigate and not overuse material.

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Most often, electronics fail, which can be easily replaced and continued use of heated floors. If the control unit breaks down, it will be difficult to get a new one if the manufacturer stops producing heating systems. Temperature sensors are easier to select since they are interchangeable in many models.

Have you installed heated floors under tiles in your home? What heating system did you use? How satisfied are you with the result and have you encountered any types of breakdowns? Share your experience in installing and operating heated floors - leave your comments under this article.



Warm electric floors are suitable for any type of floor covering. The design and principle of operation of the heating cable and mats allows the use of a heating system of this type under laminate, parquet and linoleum.

You can also install heated electric floors under tiles, install an anti-icing system for paving stones, and use them under other types of flooring.

Is it possible to lay a heating cable under the tiles?

For cold rooms finished with tiles, electric floors are better. Heating cable or mats provide quick and uniform heating of the surface, have good characteristics heat transfer, and are completely safe during operation.

The installation of electric cable heated floors under tiles is the best option for heating: bathrooms, hallways, baths and saunas, balconies and loggias, sidewalk paths and so on.

The heating system has several main advantages over water and:

  1. Electric floor thickness. The heating cable must be mounted in a screed. According to the manufacturer's manual, the minimum floor thickness can be within 3-5 cm. The mats are laid directly under the tiles, therefore they reduce the ceiling height by only 0.5 cm.
  2. Easy to install. Technology for laying warm electric floors under ceramic tiles much simpler than water or infrared heating. Easy to follow self-installation heating system, you will need a minimum set of construction tools.
    The easiest way is to put a self-regulating cable under the tile; when connecting it, you don’t even need to use a thermostat. Heating mats are also easy to install.
  3. Possibility of installation in rooms with complex layouts. The use of a two-core cable allows you to design a heating system taking into account the future placement of furniture and partitions, insulating even small areas of the room that have an uneven shape.

Ceramic and any other tiles have good heat transfer characteristics. As a result, it is easy to achieve optimal temperature indoors, overheating of the cable is eliminated, which leads to a significant increase in service life.

Types of cable floor systems

The technology for laying electric heated floors under tiles depends on the type of cable chosen. All types of wire are usually classified as follows:
  • Resistor - the cable may have one or two conductive cores. It has a simple device that works exclusively for heating. The heating intensity is controlled using a thermostat.
  • Self-regulating- the cable has two cores, between which there is a matrix that generates heat. The heating intensity depends on the room temperature. No thermostat required for operation.
    The cable independently regulates the heating temperature, providing the most comfortable conditions for every part of the room. The only drawback of self-regulating floors is their high cost and slightly increased energy consumption when used in large rooms.
  • Electrical cable mats - optimal solution for rooms with low flows and the impossibility of carrying out wet work on screed installation. After installing heating mats, the ceiling height is reduced by exactly one layer tile adhesive and the thickness of the floor covering, which is no more than 2 cm.
    The main advantage of heating mats is ease of installation. Do-it-yourself installation is allowed. For installation, you need to correctly lay the mats and connect them to the nearest power source.

When choosing a floor heating system, it is important to consider who will install the electrical cable. If you plan to invite professional builders, it is better to purchase a single-core or two-core heating cable. In other cases, preference should be given to mats.

How to properly install a cable floor system

You can start laying the cable floor only after drawing up detailed diagram laying, as well as a sequential work plan.


Laying tiles on an electric heated floor is carried out only after the screed has completely dried. The exception is heating mats. You can install tiles on top of the mats immediately.

How to lay tiles on cable

There are several basic rules for laying tiles, following which significantly affects the performance and operation of heated floors:


The choice of cable depends on the conditions in which it is planned to be used. Under paving slabs It is best to choose a single-core wire with a reliable degree of internal and external insulation.

Why is cable underfloor heating better than tiles?

The operating principle of electric cable floors optimally meets the requirements regarding the effective operation of ceramic and any other tiles:

Ceramic tiles are one of the few types of flooring that do not emit harmful toxic substances when heated. Therefore, the combination of electric floors and tiles is advisable and completely justified.

Conducting hidden wiring is not as difficult as it might seem. And today we will talk about exactly this, because conducting electrical wiring “closed” is a much more aesthetic and, accordingly, popular method.

What is important: by installing hidden wiring, you preserve the interior of your own apartment. We will undertake to tell you how to install high-quality hidden electrical wiring in the walls of your home using our own efforts, without spending money on hiring an electrician.

Advantages of hidden electrical wiring

Hidden electrical installation is an excellent option for major repairs or complete replacement of wiring in the house.

The most tangible benefits lie in the following:

  • as mentioned above, the interior of the rooms is preserved, because all the wiring is hidden in the walls or in a space hidden from view by plasterboard sheets;
  • higher fire safety (after all, if the walls are made of non-combustible materials– plaster, concrete or brick, then the ignited wiring will not cause a fire);
  • increasing the service life of the network, because it is properly protected both from mechanical influences and from other negative external factors(for example, from ultraviolet radiation).

However, there was also room for shortcomings. The most noticeable of them are some labor-intensive installation compared to the open method (although it is worth it), as well as the complexity if it is necessary to carry out repair work. The reason for this, of course, is clear - in the event of any malfunction (for example, a wire break or burnout), the wall decoration will have to be destroyed. But whatever one may say, closed method wiring is much more reliable. So, we have sorted out the disadvantages and advantages - this means that we can get down to business.

Installation: step by step instructions

Let's consider the procedure for laying electrical wiring using the example of a house with concrete or brick walls.

Creating a scheme

Creating a diagram involves drawing a special plan, which marks: the path of the power line, the location of sockets, switches, power boxes and lighting devices in each individual room. This diagram is also useful for calculating the volume of materials used. A good example For studio apartment or at home:

  • ensure that the cable runs exclusively in vertical and horizontal positions, and that a distance of 15-20 centimeters is maintained from the route to the floor or ceiling;
  • remember what is always done at the entrance to the room, and (although not regulated by any GOSTs or other regulatory documents) should be as convenient as possible for a person (for example, in the kitchen, sockets are mounted behind the countertop, in the living room - behind the TV, etc.);
  • take into account that the distance from the power line to the batteries, pipelines and ventilation ducts must be at least 50 centimeters (this is stated in the PUE).

Preparing materials and tools

This stage involves counting the number of switches, sockets, required cable length and other network elements. You will also need to do this to determine the diameter of the cores.

In no case should calculations be neglected.- this is fraught with the fact that a conductor that is too thin will not cope with the load coming to it from powerful household appliances.

When the calculation is completed, select the necessary switches and sockets (for example, only waterproof product models are installed in the bathroom).

The minimum set of materials is as follows:

  • gypsum mortar;
  • insulating tape;
  • terminal blocks;
  • protective corrugated pipe (optional);
  • cable - usually used;
  • distribution wiring;
  • socket boxes;
  • sockets;
  • switches.

The minimum set of tools, in turn, looks like this:

  • Master OK;
  • a simple pencil;
  • building level;
  • screwdriver;
  • special tool for removing insulation from wires;
  • multimeter;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • a tool for wall grooves (both a wall chaser and a hammer drill or grinder are suitable).

We make grooves for wiring

When the entire necessary set of tools and materials is ready, we begin gating. To do this, special markings are applied to the walls, thanks to which you can conveniently navigate when making recesses. By the way, the procedure can be simplified by using chalk-painted rope or a special marking cord.

When the markings are applied, we take the tool and use it to make grooves in the walls. If you have a grinder in your hands, you need to cut two parallel lines with a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them, after which all that remains is to drill the groove using a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the cross-section of the cable and is determined taking into account a small margin (it is associated with subsequent plastering).


Of course that best device for wall grooves - this is a specialized tool, also known as a wall chaser. The wall chaser will make the indentations quickly and without unnecessary hassle. The only catch is that the cost of the tool is quite high and it makes no sense to purchase it for one-time use.

The last step of the gating stage is the creation of special recesses for sockets and distribution boxes. A drill with a crown attachment with a diameter of 6.8 centimeters will come to the rescue here. And when the recesses are ready, we proceed to installation. For reliability, socket boxes and boxes “sit” on a gypsum solution, which reliably attaches the plastic to concrete wall. In this case, the edges of the products are placed flush with the surface - this will facilitate the procedure for decorative wall finishing in the future.

Cabling

Next, we lay a line, placing the cable along the grooves. First, the conductor mode is for segments of the length we need (for example, a segment from the distribution box to the socket, and so on), leaving a reserve for connecting the cores. Next, we fix the cable in the gypsum grooves with mortar. When the work is done, all that remains is to test the hidden wiring to check the correctness of the connections, as well as the overall functionality of the network. Are you sure everything is fine? This means you can safely putty the wall!

I would like to make a separate reservation regarding the use of corrugated tubes when laying cables. The protective corrugation is intended to preserve the line from all kinds of harmful mechanical loads, impacts and the like. However, the use of such material is a purely individual matter.

This is where hidden wiring in a house or apartment ends. We can make sure that there is nothing particularly difficult or unclear in the procedure. The main thing is to be careful and also follow the color coding of the wires when making connections. At the end, all that remains is to install sockets with switches, as well as protective automation in the panel (after which you can begin installing chandeliers and arranging the premises).

A few words about drywall

We talked about installing wiring in concrete and brick walls. However, they did not mention the currently widespread material - plasterboard, in which cable laying is much simpler. It’s simpler because there is no need to do any gating here.

The power line is drawn under sheets of drywall between metal profiles:


Wiring in the bathroom should be safe and at the same time functional. The old standard, when a lamp is installed in the middle of the room, and sockets and switches are placed outside the room, has not been practiced for a long time. Today, there are waterproof electrical accessories and automation that will completely protect a person from injury. electric shock. Next, we will talk about how to install electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands and what requirements apply to it.

Primary requirements

What do you need to know? First of all, according to electrical safety, a bathroom or shower is divided into 4 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 3.

Wherein:

  • 0 – bath volume, shower tray, sinks and other places where water is located.
  • 1 – around zone 0. These are the adjacent walls to the bathtub, sink, etc.
  • 2 – located at a distance of 60 cm from the edge of the bathroom, for non-rectangular containers – within a radius (shower stall) of 60 cm from the edges of zone 0.
  • 3 – considered safe (conditionally).

If all the requirements are met, then you will not encounter any problems regarding electrical safety in the future.

Installation instructions

Step 1 – Create a circuit

First you need to decide on the electrical wiring diagram in the bathroom. You must think about what electrical appliances will be installed, what type of lighting is chosen, and no less important point– what kind of heating will be present.

  1. The junction box, for electrical safety reasons, should be installed outside the room.
  2. At least three sockets must be placed throughout the entire area: for, for a hair dryer near the mirror and for an electric boiler or boiler (if present).
  3. The switch, by analogy with the box, is output to the next room, next to the front door.
  4. As we have already said, automation is installed on each group of wires separately: sockets, lamps, powerful equipment.
  5. Electrical wiring in the bathroom is laid in the wall under the ceiling, parallel to the floor. To the sockets the line goes down perpendicularly, straight down. If you decide to make a hanging one or suspended ceiling, wires can be routed through it (between profiles or under the film).

Please note that all sockets and switches must be located at a safe distance from the water source - at least 60 cm. Take this fact into account so as not to endanger your life.

Having drawn a diagram of the electrical wiring in the bathroom, you can move on to calculating the amount of materials.

Step 2 – Select components

On at this stage It is necessary not only to select suitable wiring elements, but also to determine their technical characteristics.

In order to make electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands, we recommend choosing the following materials:

  • Three-core cable, copper, with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 for sockets and 1.5 mm 2 for lamps. If you have a powerful instantaneous water heater or electric boiler installed in your bathroom, then calculate the cable cross-section for it based on current and power. The best option foreign cable will be used, but the Russian analogue VVGng-LS will be a good replacement in terms of price and quality.
  • Dowel clamps for .
  • Waterproof sockets and switches, with a degree of protection IP of at least “44” and a splash-proof cover. Also, products must have a grounding contact.
  • Waterproof, if possible it is better to use Spotlights, because they are easier to install, look neat on the ceiling and can also operate on 12 V.
  • For the potential equalization system, power wire 1*6. You additionally need to purchase tips for it.

Step 3 - Let's get started

So, first, according to the wiring diagram in the bathroom, you yourself need to create special grooves in the walls - grooves, for laying the cable. Recesses also need to be made for sockets and switches junction box. To do this, you can use a drill with a special bit with a diameter of 68 mm.

Next, the socket boxes and the box are installed in their seats and securely fixed with a solution.

After this, you need to fix the wiring in the grooves yourself using dowel clamps or old-fashioned method– grab with mortar every 20 cm. The ends of the cable are stripped of insulation and threaded to the socket boxes.

Now you can install the cores of sockets and switches in the seats. We draw your attention to the fact that it is better to fasten the decorative cover after all the repairs so that it does not get dirty during the work.

When the electrical wiring is fixed in the wall, you can move on to the RCD with your own hands. Don't rush to connect them, because... You will need to first check that the electrical installation in the bathroom is correct.

When the wiring in the room is completed, you need to check the line for the presence of a multimeter. If it is missing, you have done everything correctly and you can move on to decorative finishing walls

There is at least one left important nuance, which must be taken seriously - needed in the bathroom. To do this, we take our single-core copper wire and connect the body together washing machine, boiler, sink, bathtub and risers of cold and hot water. All these “points” need to be connected to the grounding bus installed in your input panel.

We draw your attention to the fact that if the shield does not have a grounding bus, be sure to use a safe one with a PE wire.

It should also be noted that for heating it is best to use, which you can easily lay in the floor yourself. That's the whole technology of electrical installation work. As you can see, you can do the wiring in the bathroom yourself, because... The design of the system is nothing supernatural!

Finally

Today, suspended plasterboard ceilings, and plastic panels. If you decide to use them, it will only make electrical work easier. The fact is that when installing electrical wiring in a bathroom under a suspended ceiling, you will not need to create grooves, but simply lay the cable in a protective corrugated pipe as shown in the photo. The corrugation, in turn, is easily attached with clips to the profile.

Another important point that I would like to draw your attention to is the lack of grounding in the apartment panel. Indeed, it happens that the ground wire may be missing. In this case, it is necessary to use a new, three-wire one, after which it is imperative to make a potential equalization system.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to make electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands. We hope that the information was useful to you and was useful in electrical installation work!

Similar material:

Any serious renovation of an apartment, and even local renovation of a room, and especially a bathroom renovation, will not be complete without replacing, adding or changing the electrical wiring diagram. When planning this work, you should draw up a wiring diagram in the apartment (I talked about this in another blog article, and you can always read it), and in addition to the wiring diagram, decide on the wiring methods. But in order to decide on this, you need to know the methods of electrical wiring.

Try to carry out electrical installation in accordance with the latest edition of the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), Edition 7. Watch and download.

According to 7.1.37 - 7.1.39 PUE, when renovating an apartment, renovating a kitchen, renovating a bathroom, the following methods of electrical wiring in an apartment are allowed:

  • Hidden electrical wiring in cable channels of building structures.
  • Hidden electrical wiring - electrical wiring that is not replaceable, embedded in the wall or floor.
  • Electrical wiring in grooves. In buildings made of non-combustible building materials, which include concrete, brick, cinder blocks, etc. Permanent, monolithic hidden electrical wiring of group networks is allowed in grooves (grooves) of walls, partitions, ceilings, under plaster, in the floor preparation layer or in the voids of building structures, carried out with cable or insulated wires in a protective sheath.
  • Open electrical wiring in electric stoves, boxes, corrugations, etc.

Note: The use of permanent, embedded hidden electrical wiring in panels of walls, partitions and ceilings, made during their manufacture at construction industry factories or electrical wiring carried out in the mounting joints of panels during the installation of buildings, is not allowed (PUE ed. 7)

Hidden wiring embedded in the walls

The very concept of hidden electrical wiring implies that the wires used for electrical wiring should not be visible. Let's consider hidden electrical wiring in the grooves (grooves) of the walls.

You can make the groove itself in several ways.

Electrical boxes for hidden electrical wiring

Hidden wiring involves installing electrical boxes (socket boxes) for sockets and switches. To install the socket boxes, a niche of the required size is hollowed out. The socket boxes are frozen into alabaster, the cable is inserted into them, then the box is sealed gypsum plaster. If hidden wiring is done under the tiles, then the sub-sockets need to be monolithic so that they protrude slightly from the wall.

Hidden wiring in suspended ceilings and plasterboard partitions

Electrical wiring laid in suspended ceilings and plasterboard partitions also have hidden wiring. It is performed in plastic pipes and cable channels. Corrugation is good for this.

Corrugation from the French word gaufrer - to press folds. In electrical installations, a corrugation is a hose with diametrical stiffeners and steel wire embedded inside.

The wire is intended for pulling electrical wires or electrical cables inside the corrugation. Corrugation is used not only for open, but also for hidden wiring. Corrugations are available in different diameters.

Corrugation is PVC pipe, corrugated. Corrugations are available in the following diameters: 16 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 63 mm. Corrugated installation is performed only with a single cable, and not with a bundle of cables. To attach the corrugated cable to the wall or ceiling, special clips are used. The diameter of the clamps is selected according to the diameter of the corrugation.

Note: Hidden wiring in the corrugation must be carried out, according to the PUE (electrical installation rules) clause 7.1.38, only on non-flammable or low-flammable surfaces.

Open wiring in cable channel

The cable channel is designed for laying open wiring

Designed for laying open wiring. The cable channel is made from various materials plastic, steel or aluminum. For open wiring in an apartment, a plastic cable channel is usually used.

The most popular is a box, rectangular in profile, with a cover protecting the cable channel. A partition is used inside the channel to separate electrical cables into power and low-current ones. Installation of electrical switches, electrical sockets and other electrical installation products into the structure is carried out with a simple latch. The assembly and installation of “box” type cable channels is facilitated through the use of accessory parts (L-shaped corner, T-shaped corner, plug, connector, external corner, internal corner).

Cable ducts are available in a wide variety of sizes. The modern building materials market allows you to select a cable channel in accordance with the requirements of your open wiring.

Wiring in the electrical baseboard.

By technical requirements The wiring in the electric baseboard is the same as the wiring in the cable channel - this is open wiring.

An electric plinth is a plinth made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride plastic) with a special cable channel in the middle on the front side. Cable laying can be done either in this cable channel or between the baseboard and the wall. Ideal for laying telephone, computer and antenna lines in open wiring. The electric plinth is easily attached to the wall using dowel nails, and is also easily connected to each other both in a straight line and at an angle of 90º.

Perhaps these are all the main methods of electrical wiring in an apartment, used in apartment renovation, kitchen renovation or bathroom renovation. I hope this article about methods of electrical wiring in an apartment: hidden wiring, open wiring, corrugated wiring, wiring in a cable channel, wiring in an electric baseboard will be useful to everyone who is renovating apartments, renovating rooms or renovating a bathroom.

These are all the methods of electrical wiring in the apartment. Good luck to you in your endeavors!

Wall gating works (photo)

Hand gritting

Hidden junction boxes