Although the iron is not the most expensive household appliances, if it breaks down, you don't have to run for a new one right away. First, we will try to repair it ourselves. Do-it-yourself iron repair - with this you can start your career as a home electrician. Simple circuit, minimum of elements.
If we talk about electric irons, there are three types:
The most common are irons with steamers; it is his repair that we will consider further. First, you should familiarize yourself with its device. So repairing the iron with your own hands will be easier. Knowing the composition of the device and the purpose of its parts, you can call possible reasons problems.
Generally speaking, each iron consists of a body, a handle, a thermostat and a soleplate with holes through which steam is supplied to the ironing area. To maintain the steaming mode, a water tank is built into the iron body, and there are also regulators of the steaming mode intensity.
Steaming system device
Modern electric irons of this type have several steaming modes. To understand how everything works, you need to consider how it all works. After all, often repairing the iron with your own hands is necessary not because the iron does not heat up, but because steam does not go. And here it is important to understand what exactly is the matter.
In modern models, there are three steaming modes that have individual buttons. Each button activates its own pump, which, depending on the settings, delivers the required amount of water. There are such modes and pumps:
Simpler models (previous generation) usually have a sprinkler and a steaming mode. Their structure is somewhat different. The first difference is that the sole heating regulator has been moved to the handle (however, not always), the handle also has a steam regulator, but it is made in the form of a rotary disc.
The sprinkler button, in such models of irons, is located between the temperature and steam controls.
Do-it-yourself iron repair is impossible without an electrical circuit. As you can see circuit diagram an electric iron is not much different from a kettle or boiler circuit. The main differences are in the form of heating elements and other "additional" devices.
There are only a few elements in the circuit: a connecting block, a heating element, a thermostat and thermal protection. Thermal protection can be different. In the simplest case, this is a fuse. In more sophisticated models, this is an overtemperature shutdown device. Since there are few circuit elements, repairing an iron with your own hands is not the most difficult task.
How to disassemble the iron
If the iron does not work, the first thing to do is to disassemble it. It's not as easy as it seems - there are too many models, each of which may have its own "chips". Moreover, different models of the same manufacturer can be understood in different ways. However, there are general principles and rules:
- Remove the back cover of the handle. This allows access to the terminal block. With some damage (problems with the cord or failure of the heating element), this is enough and there is no need to disassemble the iron any further.
- Remove the buttons for steam supply, steam boost, sprinkler, thermostat. They can often be removed by simply pulling the top. Some are equipped with latches that must be pry off with something thin - a small ordinary screwdriver will do, you can try using a nail file, a strip of plastic (you can cut it off from an old unnecessary plastic card).
- Screw in all the screws that you see.
- In many iron models, the handle is in two parts. The top one can be held by one or two screws and latches. A variant without a screw at all is possible - only with latches. By removing this part, you gain access to the other screws holding the case.
Dismantling the iron does not require the use of force. If "does not go" you need to carefully look at what and where it is holding. And it is not necessary to disassemble it immediately to the end - it is not always necessary.
Checking the simplest
Often the iron does not work due to a problem with the cord. During operation, it often bends, insulation is damaged in places of bending, sparks may even appear. Therefore, the first step in self-repairing an iron is inspection and continuity of the cord. A multimeter will be needed for a continuity (read how to work with it).
Disassembling the iron is the very beginning
Checking the power cord
Sometimes, to make sure that the problem is in the cord, you can plug the iron into the mains. If everything is in order, the indicator lamp lights up. This is usually a green LED. According to whether it is on constantly or periodically goes out, and we will monitor the condition of the cord. We twist and bend it, paying attention to the state of the signal light. If it blinks, then the power cord is really at fault. It is better to replace it, but, if desired, you can find a problem area (often it is visually easily identified) and correct the situation.
If these are problems with insulation, and the conductor itself is intact, using electrical tape, they eliminate the malfunction. If the wires are damaged, they are cut, connected in a new way with the help, the junction is insulated. This renovation is a temporary measure, as problems will appear again soon - not far from the "restored" site. Therefore, it is still better to replace the cord.
Terminals and contacts
If there is no external damage to the cord, but it does not work, you will have to disassemble the iron. At the first stage, there are usually no difficulties - there is one bolt at the back. This is perhaps the only fastener that cannot be hidden. We unscrew it, remove the cover.
Removing the back cover is usually easy - one bolt
A terminal block is hidden under the back cover, to which the wires from the thermostat and heating element fit, on the other our power cord is connected. The terminal block may look different. For some manufacturers like Bosch) it is hidden under plastic cover... The cover must be removed. How to get to it depends on the model. Sometimes it's enough just to pry on and pull, sometimes you have to remove some parts. It is important to get to the contacts.
Often the reason that the iron does not heat up is hidden not in the heating element, but in the fact that the contacts are clogged or oxidized. Sometimes water gets on the contacts (the container is leaking), sometimes dust is sintered there, sometimes the contact is simply weakened. If there is one of these problems, fix it. Perhaps repairing the iron with your own hands will end there.
If you are going to remove the wires from the contacts, take a picture of how it was. There will be less assembly problems. Human memory is unreliable. The photo is much more reliable.
Checking the cord for continuity
If the contacts are normal, clean, we ring the cord for the integrity of the wires. We take a tester / multimeter, set it to dial mode. With one probe we touch the pin of the cord, with the second we "sort out" the wires on the terminal block. If the wire is intact, one of the pairs should "ring" - you should hear a beep.
Iron cord dial
The cord of the iron is three-wire, two wires go to the pins of the cord, and the third is green or yellow-green in color - grounding. There is a metal plate on the iron fork. Touching it and the green wire on the block, you should hear the "squeak" of the multimeter. If at least one wire "does not ring", we change the cord.
Temperature regulator
How does he work? It consists of three main parts: a rod, contact plates attached to it and a bimetallic plate. The bimetal plate is heated from the soleplate of the iron. As the temperature rises, it heats up, bends. At a certain temperature, it is bent so much that it opens the contacts, turning off the power. When the iron cools down, it returns to its original state, the contacts close again, and the iron starts to warm up again.
First you need to check if it works at all. Twist it from one extreme position to the other. In one of the positions, a characteristic click should be heard, which is emitted by closing contacts. It is through them that power is supplied to the heating element of the iron. Leaving the thermostat in this position, check the presence of electrical contact.
Two contacts leave the temperature controller (wires are connected to them that go to the heating element). We touch them with the probes of the multimeter (dial mode). If it beeps, everything is fine. But by putting the regulator in another extreme position, you should get a "break" - the contacts should open. In this case, this node works normally.
Visual control will not hurt either - maybe they are burnt, oxidized, weakened. If there is scale, dirt, rust, they can be carefully cleaned. To do this, you can use a strip of very fine sandpaper or a nail file. Do not be too zealous - do not cut the contacts completely. When cleaning, try to bend the plates to a minimum so as not to loosen the contact.
Sometimes the adjuster is difficult to turn. Grasp it with pliers or pliers and rotate it back and forth until you get a smoother ride. Then you need to take a simple pencil and rub the knot with graphite. It does not sinter at high temperatures and has good lubricating properties.
After all the manipulations, again check the presence of a contact in the "on" position of the thermostat. If everything is fine, you can try to connect the iron and check if it works. Perhaps the repair of the iron with your own hands is over. If not, let's move on.
Fuse
Thermal fuses are disposable and reusable. Disposable ones burn out when the critical temperature is exceeded. After that, the iron does not turn on and its functionality can be restored only by replacing the disposable fuse.
Reusable is made on the basis of the same bimetallic plate and works the same way. This unit increases the reliability of the iron - it does not allow it to burn out if, suddenly, the thermostat does not work. The most common reason for a non-working iron is a blown fuse. This is about 50% of cases of failure of this device. This happens if both the thermostat and the reusable fuse have not turned off the iron.
You can get to the fuse only by completely removing the case. We find it, touch the probes of the multimeter on both sides. If there are no sounds, it is he who is to blame. We solder the faulty one, put the similar one. You can also put a "bug" instead - solder a piece of wire. But with the next failure, the heating element will burn out, and not the fuse. Then repairing the iron with your own hands will end with the purchase of a new one - the price of the sole is comparable to the cost of a new iron.
Problems with the sole of the iron (heating element + water tank)
In many models of the iron, the heating element, together with the water tank, is sealed in a single body. Problems with one of these parts lead to one thing - to buy a new iron. Replacing the sole is impractical, since this spare part costs a little less than a new iron. Even if you decide to change the sole, there is no guarantee that you will find the one you need - the market changes quickly, models are discontinued, spare parts for them are not produced. In general, if you got to this stage in self-repairing an iron, most likely go to the store for a new one.
There is only a small percentage of cases where the sole can be restored to work - if the contacts have oxidized so much that the contact has disappeared. We find these contacts, clean them thoroughly and crimp them. Next, we take measurements.
We expose the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. In irons, heating elements usually have a resistance of about 250 ohms (more precisely, look in the passport), so the measurement limit is 1000 ohms. If the resistance is somewhere within these limits, everything is fine. If it shows "infinity" - the heating element has burned out. As already mentioned, the replacement does not make sense, it is more practical to buy a new iron.
The same way out - going for a new iron - can be a working heating element in a situation. This happens if the water tank is deformed. It can be ripped or swollen. In any case, the iron turns out to be inoperative, although the electrical part is "normal". This damage - problems with the water tank - occurs when a large number scale. It is easier to prevent than to eliminate. It is necessary to pour water with a small amount of salt into the iron. Yes, manufacturers write that you can pour tap water. It will work out its warranty period. And then - buy a new one.
What to do if no steam comes out
Steam does not usually come out if the holes in the sole are clogged with salts. This will not happen if you use distilled water (ideally) passed through filters or at least boiled.
It is not difficult to descale the iron. To do this, we take a metal or heat-resistant container in which it can be placed on the bottom. We dilute citric acid in water (1 tablespoon per glass of water) or vinegar (1 glass per 1 liter). Set the steam regulator to maximum, set the iron so that its back is just above the spout. You can use regular coins as coasters.
Pour in the solution. The liquid should cover the platform by about 1-1.5 cm. We transfer the container with the iron to the stove, bring it to a boil, turn it off for 20-30 minutes, turn it on again. We repeat such cycles 3-4 times. After this procedure, all holes and the water container are cleaned. True, until all the sediment comes out, traces may remain on the linen.
This completes the repair of the iron with your own hands. If it still does not work, take another close look at all the elements of the system. There are not so many of them - a cord and a block, a thermostat, fuses, heating elements.
An electric iron is one of the most important and simply necessary appliances in the house for life. The progress of human development has stepped forward significantly and now you can quickly and comfortably iron any clothing, regardless of the nature of its material.
But along with this, it happens that problems arise, since the technique may stop working. And therefore you need to know what is the reason, how to fix the malfunction yourself. Experts believe that 80% of problems can be fixed on their own.
The main knots in the iron
First, we will consider and get acquainted with the design of the irons.
Knowing the device well, we can then better eliminate the problems that arise.
So, the main elements are a heating element, a soleplate, an on indicator and a thermostat. Teng is a spiral that heats up when electricity is supplied to the iron. And already this spiral heats up the sole. The indicator is on and indicates that the iron is connected and in working order.
The device heats up to the desired temperature and the indicator automatically turns off and the light of the lamp goes out. There are two lights on the iron: green and red.
How to repair a Philips brand iron
In this case, green indicates that power is connected to the device. And the red one indicates the operation of the heating element, lit - works, off - off. The thermostat regulates the ironing temperature and can be controlled on the device body.
All devices also have a fuse that turns off the heating element if it happens that the thermostat does not work and the temperature does not fall, but rises. When the temperature drops to a minimum, the thermostat turns on again and the electric current flows to the heating element coil.
Iron repair
When your iron malfunctioned and stopped working, it is important not to rush to buy a new one, but throw the problematic iron away as unnecessary. In most cases, the device can be brought back to working order and the breakdown can be corrected. Only if the heating element of the iron burns out, then nothing can be done and you need to buy a new one. But this does not happen often.
What do you need to cook next when repairing the iron? It is good if the house has several screwdrivers and a device called a tester, as well as a work lamp with a good battery. It may be necessary to disassemble the device case.
The first step is to find the screws that hold the chassis and sole in place. The screws are usually located under special plugs, a container where water is. It is important to be careful not to break the latches of the parts.
Problem - Power Cord
The first step is to check if the light on the indicator is on. If not, the problem is with the iron cord. To repair it, you need to remove the back cover and check the connection of the power cable, it may be that some contact is poorly connected.
Then you can use a conventional tester and check the cable is working properly. One end to the plug in the cord and the other to the wires inside the enclosure. If it does not work, then cut off 4-6 centimeters of the wire. Attach one end of the tester and the light bulb to the plug, and to the other end - the battery.
If the light is off, then something is wrong with the cord. You can still cut it off and try again by connecting the tester. In the end, it may be that the cord is not suitable and needs to be replaced. If the light is on after checking, then this means that the problem is not in the cord and therefore it will be necessary to disassemble the iron further, other parts.
Another popular problem that lies in wait for iron owners is a malfunction of the thermostat. The temperature controller is based on a bimetallic plate. This plate is needed for the operation of the high-speed circuit breaker.
The temperature regulator works like this: the soleplate of the iron heats up the bimetallic plate; since the heat expansion coefficient of the two metals is different, the bimetallic plate bends and squeezes the contact plate. Thus, the circuit is opened and the heating element is turned off.
The iron starts to cool down
In this video, you will be shown how to fix the problem with the cooling of the iron. We watch and remember!
When the temperature of the bimetallic plate drops to a certain level, it becomes even again and releases the contact plate. Then the ten is triggered again. It is very important to pay attention to the operation of the thermostat, whether it is broken. You can check this by turning its handle to the extreme positions.
If the contact plates close and open, then he is fine. These plates are the basis of the temperature controller. Otherwise, if you cannot do this, you need to remove the regulator handle by prying it with some sharp object, knife or flat screwdriver. It's not difficult at all. If this tactic fails, it is better to remove the iron body altogether by unscrewing the screws.
When this is done, you can look at the problem from the inside, so it is easier to find a breakdown. Then, using the dial, see if the electrical circuit is triggered. One end of the dial is connected to one contact, and the other end to the other. Now, if the light comes on when the regulator is set to the extreme positions, then the thermostat is working properly.
But if not, then you need to clean the contacts. To do this, you can use a fine-grained emery cloth or even a nail file. Then you need to check the integrity of the thermostat circuit using an electrical tester.
Problem - fuse blown
Thermal fuse for iron
Next, you should pay attention to the thermal fuse. By checking it, you can find another malfunction of the iron. To do this, you need to connect the dial wire to it on both sides. If everything is in order with the fuse, the tester's buzzer will start to make a sound, "beep". If the buzzer still does not "beep", then the thermal fuse is faulty.
In 50-60% of cases of iron malfunction, the problem arises precisely because of the blown thermal fuse. There are two types of thermal fuses: disposable and reusable. Reusable thermal fuses are created on the same principle as bimetal (as well as the main iron regulator).
When the set temperature rises, the contact is broken, and as a result the power supply is interrupted heating element... After the iron has cooled down, the bimetallic contact closes the power circuit of the heating element again. So, a reusable thermal fuse protects the iron from overheating (except for those cases when the main thermostat did not work) and completely burn out.
Unlike a reusable thermal fuse, a disposable one can fulfill its purpose only once. When the set temperature is exceeded, a disposable thermal fuse interrupts the power supply to the heating element, thus protecting the iron from overheating and from burning the heating element.
If a disposable thermal fuse has tripped, then the iron is no longer subject to further use, it must be repaired.
The simplest solution to this problem would be to discard this disposable thermal fuse, and short-circuit the electrical circuit in this place. If the main temperature controller is working properly, then the absence of a thermal fuse will not in any way affect the operation and safety of the iron.
In order to short-circuit the electrical circuit in the place where the thermal fuse is absent, it is necessary to solder another fuse or just a wire in this place.
Problem - Teng does not work
Having applied a lot of work and checking the main elements, we come to the conclusion that the heating element has stopped working. Often it is simply impossible or very difficult to remove it from the device and replace it. And it may not come out very cheap. Therefore, it is best to dispose of the iron in this case. Parts of the iron that are still working, for example a cord, may still come in handy at home and you can leave it.
It is better to pour only distilled or boiled water into the iron. This will prevent limescale build-up in the steaming system.
It is good to use any technique carefully and accurately, and then the devices will serve for a long time, without any problems.
Irons, as household appliances, have appeared for a long time. They were bulky, heavy, and awkward to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They became unusable only when a hot coal burned through their metal bottom.
Today, an iron is a high-tech device, consisting of several units that have precise settings and work well-coordinated.
Fig. 1. Repaired iron
When all this is violated, the device jumps and eventually fails. This happens for various reasons. Improper use, dropping the appliance, using chlorinated water for the steam generator and much more. As a result, such desired device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.
What to do if your favorite device stops heating up? The main thing is not to panic, but to try to return the iron to its working capacity. The cause of the malfunction is often minor and easily remedied.
Below, the article will describe how to troubleshoot an electric iron and how to fix it and repair it yourself.
Of the tools, you only need a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or ohmmeter, and small pliers called "ducklings".
Although this iron does not have a steam generator, it electrical circuit and the design is practically no different from the first ones. Therefore, the method for diagnosing and repairing the electrical part is identical for them.
In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when it is turned on and the thermostat wheel rotates.
Fig. 2. We turn the regulator, and the iron does not heat up The mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.
Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 W. This is not a big indicator, since there are copies with a power of up to 2500 watts. The more watts the iron consumes, the faster it heats up, but more current flows through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are more often subject to conditions under which they fail.
Fig. 3. Specifications As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover (Figure 4). It is held in place by a single screw located exactly in the middle of the cover.
Fig. 4. Remove the back case cover Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew this screw.
After the screw is unscrewed, the cover can be freely removed and the incoming electrical circuits of the iron can be seen.
Fig. 5. Electric circuits of the iron For ease of installation, there is a terminal block inside (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal block, the wires go deeper into the device.
With a high power of the iron in this place, wires may burn out or the terminal block case may melt. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, since over time the connection heats up and the screw looses.
In this case, the connection heats up even more and, as a result, the wire burns out. And this place is often a weak link in the electrical circuit of the device.
Fig. 6. Terminal block But everything looks great in the photo. No hints of heating and even less a wire break. This is most likely due to the low power of the heater.
But in order to make it convenient to disassemble in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clamp, which is held by two screws.
Fig. 7.remove the upper part of the iron body Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.
When the cord is free, pull it out and unscrew the screws of the case.
Fig. 8.Unscrew the screws of the case Now we go to the front. Both screws in this place are under the water container. This is a common spray bottle for irrigating clothes before ironing.
Fig. 9. Press the release button To remove it, press the release button (Figure 9), and take out the atomizer itself. Next, we take out the container for water.
Fig. 10. We take out the spray 
Fig. 11. Water container Under it are two screws that fasten the body to the sole of the iron. We unscrew one and then the second screws.
Fig. 12. Unscrew the 2 screws After these manipulations, the top cover can be easily removed.
Fig. 13. Remove the top cover All that remains is the sole with the protective cover and electrical circuits.
Fig. 14. Iron sole Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.
Fig. 15. Indicator light It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is applied directly to the heater.
In the center is the thermostat slider (Figure 16) with an oblique guiding cut. This cut is required to dock the regulator wheel on the top cover with the temperature sensor slider.
Fig. 16. Thermostat engine We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three screws securing the protective casing of the sole (Figure 18).
Further, it is necessary to disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. The wires, both incoming and outgoing, have the appropriate color, so there is no need to mark them before disconnecting.
Fig. 17. We take out the light bulb 
Fig. 18. Unscrew the 3 fastening screws But before that we check if the problem is in the cord. To do this, we connect the leads of a device capable of testing the circuit with blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to the phase and zero of the 220 V network. We turn the thermostat engine first in one direction and then in the other direction.
The device does not show anything, which means that the break is located further under the protective casing.
Fig. 19. Looking for an open circuit In turn, unscrew all the wire clamps.
Fig. 20. Unscrew the rest of the wire clamps Having taken out the wires from the clamps, carefully remove the protective casing.
Fig. 21. Remove the protective cover We put it to the side and again take the chain pointer. We connect its ends with the terminals of the heater or heating element. The device shows that the heating element is intact, and this good newsas it is pressed into the soleplate of the iron.
Fig. 22. Checking the heating element Only the temperature regulator remained.
A brown wire comes to one of its conclusions, which goes directly from the network. Having connected the device with this output of the temperature sensor (Figure 23), as well as with the white wire that goes to its second contact, we rotate the regulator again.
Fig. 23. Checking the thermostat Nothing happens, then the thermostat is defective.
What can be done in this case? The simplest thing is to replace the regulator. But finding the same one will most likely be problematic, especially a worker.
Some people short-circuit the temperature sensor with a piece of wire, thus removing it from the circuit.
But this is not an option, since in best case, if overheated, the iron can burn delicate fabric. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if you accidentally leave it plugged in. Therefore, direct connection is not an option.
What then can be done? Just readjust the bimetal plate of the thermostat. If you look closely, you will notice that the thermostat contacts are open in any position of the regulator knob.
But if you press your finger on the bimetallic plate, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.
We take the "ducklings" and grabbing the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figure 24 and 25).
Fig. 24. Rotate the bimetal plate 
Fig. 25. This should be done as carefully as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat engine. At some point, a click will be heard, and the contacts will close.
We take measurements after revision (Figure 26). It can be seen that the contact part of the temperature sensor is closed.
Fig. 26. Measurements after revision Now we put the wires into the hole in the casing and stretch them with our fingers from the other side. We also lay out the wires carefully. We put on the upper part of the case and tighten the screws that secure it.
It is very important that when connecting the body to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the regulator wheel fits exactly into the cut on the thermostat slider.
To check if these two parts are connected correctly, you need to turn the adjuster wheel in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is connected correctly and you can continue the assembly.
Fig. 31. We connect the body with the sole We fix the body with screws and put the container with the spray bottle.
Fig. 34. Put back the back cover
We turn on the iron and turn the wheel.
Photo 35 shows that the iron has turned on and is heating up.
Fig. 35. The iron is running At some point, he turned off himself, having typed the desired temperature.
We spin the wheel to the maximum, and it turns on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right moment. At this, the repair can be considered completed.
It should be remembered that all work must be done with the device disconnected from the network.
If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.
General device
Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But here general arrangement remains the same. Available:
- Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the soleplate for steam outlet.
- A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
- A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
- There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
- The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.
General device of the electric iron
After you have generally familiarized yourself with what is where, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.
What will be needed for work
For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.
Tools you may need when repairing your iron
All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.
How to disassemble the iron
The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.
Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.
In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.
Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron
As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.
Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.
To disassemble the iron you need to remove the buttons
Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then we remove the upper plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.
There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - too different designs are. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.
Power cord
Failure of the electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the sole may not heat well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.
In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with an inspection of the cord. To accurately determine whether it is normal or not, you need to ring it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block will become available, to which the cord is connected. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, we press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When touching the "correct" wire, the multimeter should emit a squeak. This means that the wire is intact.
Checking the integrity of the power cord
The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.
For complete confidence in the serviceability of the cord, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in places where there are insulation problems. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It also needs to be replaced if one or both pins do not ring. You may be lucky and you will not need further repairs to the iron.
Checking the performance of the heating element
If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burned out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, as the replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heating element that is to blame.
These are the outputs of the heating element of the iron
In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We transfer the multimeter to the position of resistance measurement (up to 1000 Ohm), we take measurements. If the numbers on the display are about 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.
Checking the thermostat
The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which the disc is then put on.
This is the thermostat on the iron
Two contacts fit the plate. We install the multimeter probes on them and check the operability (we call them). In the "off" position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.
The damage may consist in the fact that in the "on" position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. The situation may be different - it is not disabled by the regulator and / or does not respond to the regulator position. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they are burnt.
In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by thrusting a piece of sandpaper with a fine grain between the contacts and a couple of times and "sliding" along the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can't bend them too much.
In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burnt - melted. Repairing the iron in this case consists in trying to separate them. But such a trick rarely succeeds. The way out is to replace it.
Thermostat from a different angle
There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the soleplate of the iron is heated, the bending thermoplate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Repairing the iron is also similar - we try to return mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.
Checking the fuse
A thermal fuse is installed in approximately the same area as the thermostat. It stands in case of overheating of the sole of the iron - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.
Iron repair: fuse and its continuity
Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if it blows out - silence. If desired, you can move the tube, ring it directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, you solder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.
It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And even though the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.
Steam spray system
If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore your performance with a simple trick. Pour water and vinegar (ordinary, table) into a bowl with low boron (a frying pan is suitable). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In the dishes with the prepared liquid, lower the disconnected iron. The liquid should cover the sole.
Cleaning the steam vents on the iron
Put the container with the iron on the fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. This can be repeated 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.
Sometimes water stops coming out of the spray arm. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstall all the tubes and wires.
The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Seal the sole with tape so that no water seeps out, but you can also put it in a dish. Pour inside the sole hot water with vinegar or citric acid, stand to cool, drain, pour over again. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.
Similar materials
Since then, when people took off their animal skins and began to put on woven clothes, the question arose about removing folds and wrinkles from things after washing. Things were pressed down with flat stones, ironed with pans with hot coals, and whatever housewives did not come up with, until June 6, 1882, the American inventor Henry Seeli patented the electric iron.
And only in 1903, the American entrepreneur Earl Richardson brought the invention to life by making the first electrically heated iron, which the seamstresses really liked.
The principle of operation and electrical circuit of the iron
Electrical circuit diagram
If you look at the electrical diagram of the Braun iron, you might think that this is a diagram of an electric heater or electric kettle. And this is not surprising, the electrical circuits of all these devices are not much different. The differences lie in the design of these household appliances due to their different purposes.
The supply voltage of 220 V is fed through a flexible heat-resistant cord with a molded plug to the XP connector installed in the iron body. The PE terminal is grounding, does not take part in the work and serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of an insulation breakdown on the case. The PE wire in the cord is usually yellow - green colors.
If the iron is connected to a network without a ground loop, then the PE wire is not used. Terminals L (phase) and N (zero) in the iron are equivalent, which terminal is zero or phase does not matter.
From the L terminal, the current is supplied to the Temperature Regulator, and if its contacts are closed, then further to one of the TEN terminals. From the N terminal, the current flows through the thermal fuse to the second terminal of the heating element. In parallel to the terminals of the heating element, a neon lamp is connected through the resistor R, which glows when voltage is applied to the heating element and the iron heats up.
In order for the iron to start heating, it is necessary to apply the supply voltage to the tubular electric heater (TEN), pressed into the sole of the iron. For quick heating of the sole, heating elements of high power are used, from 1000 to 2200 W. If this power is supplied constantly, then after a few minutes the sole of the iron will be warmed up red-hot and it will be impossible to iron things without spoiling them. For ironing products made of nylon and anida, the temperature of the iron is 95-110 ° C, and that of linen is 210-230 ° C. Therefore, to set the required temperature when ironing things made of different fabrics, there is a temperature control unit.
The temperature control unit is controlled with a round knob located in the central part under the iron handle. Turning the knob clockwise will increase the heating temperature, while turning it counterclockwise, the heating temperature of the soleplate will be lower.
Rotation from the handle to the thermostat assembly is transmitted through an adapter in the form of a sleeve or a metal angle put on a threaded rod of the thermostat. The handle on the iron body is held by several latches. To remove the handle, it is enough to pry it over the edge with a little effort with a screwdriver blade.
The operation of the thermostat of the Philips iron and any other manufacturer is ensured by the installation of a bimetallic plate, which is a strip of two metals sintered together over the entire surface with different coefficients of linear expansion. As the temperature changes, each of the metals expands to a different extent, and as a result, the plate bends.
In the thermostat, the plate is connected to a bistable switch through a ceramic rod. The principle of its operation is based on the fact that, due to a flat curved spring, when passing through the equilibrium point, the contacts instantly open or close. The speed is necessary to reduce the burning of the contacts as a result of the formation of a spark when they open. The switching point of the switch can be changed by turning the knob on the iron body and thus controlling the heating temperature of the soleplate. When the thermostat switch is turned on and off, a characteristic low click is heard.
To increase the safety of operating the iron in the event that the thermostat breaks, for example, contacts are welded to each other, in modern models (there was no thermal fuse in Soviet irons), a FUt thermal fuse is installed, designed for a response temperature of 240 ° C. When this temperature is exceeded, the thermal fuse breaks the circuit and the voltage is no longer supplied to the heating element. In this case, in what position the temperature control knob is located does not matter.
There are three types of thermal fuse designs, as in the photo, and they all work on the principle of contact opening due to bending of the bimetallic plate as a result of heating. In the photo on the left, the thermal fuse of the Philips iron, on the bottom right - Braun. Usually, after the temperature of the sole has dropped below 240 ° C, the thermal fuse is restored. It turns out that the thermal fuse works like a thermostat, but maintains a temperature suitable for ironing only linen items.
To indicate the arrival of the supply voltage to the heating element, a neon lamp HL is connected in parallel to its terminals through a current-limiting resistor R. The indicator does not affect the operation of the iron, but it allows you to judge the performance. If the light is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the heating element winding is in the open or there is poor contact at the place where its terminals are connected to the circuit.
Wiring diagram
The entire electrical circuit of the iron is mounted on the opposite side of the sole, made of high strength aluminum alloy. This photo shows the wiring diagram of a Philips electric iron. Wiring diagrams of irons from other manufacturers and models of irons differ slightly from those shown in the photo.
The supply voltage of 220 V is supplied from the power cord with the help of captive terminals put on pins 3 and 4. Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 and one of the terminals of the heating element. From pin 3, the supply voltage goes to the thermal fuse and then to the iron thermostat, and from it, via the bus, to the second terminal of the heating element. A neon lamp is connected between 1 and 5 pins through a current-limiting resistor. Pin 2 is a ground terminal and is riveted directly to the sole of the iron. All conductive buses of the circuit are made of iron, and in this case it is justified, since the heat generated in the buses goes to heating the iron.
DIY electric iron repair
Attention! Care should be taken when repairing an electric iron. Touching exposed circuitry while connected to the mains can result in electric shock. Do not forget to remove the plug from the socket!
To carry out an independent repair of the iron is within the power of any home craftsman, even without experience in repair household appliances... After all, there are few electrical parts in the iron, and you can check them with any indicator or multimeter. Iron is often more difficult to disassemble than to repair. Let's consider the technology of disassembly and repair using the example of two models Philips and Braun.
Irons stop working for one of the following reasons, listed by the frequency of cases: a break in the power cord, poor contact of the terminals at the point where the cord is connected to the wiring diagram, oxidation of the contacts in the thermostat, malfunction of the thermal fuse.
Checking the power cord is working
Since during ironing, the power cord is constantly bent and the greatest bend occurs at the point where the cord enters the iron body, at this point the wires in the cord are usually frayed. This malfunction begins to manifest itself when the iron is still heating up normally, but during ironing, the heating on indicator blinks, without being accompanied by the click of the thermostat switch.
If the insulation of the conductors in the cord is frayed, then a short circuit may occur with an external manifestation in the form of a flash of fire with a loud bang and the circuit breaker in the shield is turned off. In this case, you need to unplug the iron cord from the outlet and start repairing it yourself. Short circuit the wires in the iron cord are not dangerous for humans, but the housewives are pretty impressive.
If the iron stops heating up, then first of all, you need to check the presence of voltage in the outlet by connecting any other electrical device to it, for example, a table lamp, or connect the iron to another outlet. Do not forget to turn the temperature regulator on the iron clockwise at least to the first circle on the scale before doing this. In the extreme left position of the thermostat knob, the iron can be turned off. If the outlet is working properly, and the iron does not heat up, then with the plug of the cord inserted into the network, move it at the point of entry into the iron body, simultaneously pressing, while observing the on indicator. The same operation must be done in the area where the cord enters the power plug. If the indicator lights up even for a moment, it means that there is a wire break in the power cord and you will have to take the iron to a service workshop or repair it yourself.
Using a multimeter or pointer tester
If you have a multimeter or a pointer tester, the power cord can be checked without connecting to the mains, which is safer by connecting the test leads of the device included in the resistance measurement mode to the pins of the power plug. A working iron should have a resistance of about 30 ohms. Even a slight change in the reading of the device when moving the cord will indicate the presence of a wire break in it.
If the power cord is frayed at the point of entry into the electrical plug, then you will not need to disassemble the iron, but it will be enough to replace the plug with a new one, cutting it off at the point of damage to the wire.
If the power cord is frayed at the entrance to the iron or the proposed method did not allow determining the malfunction of the cord, then the iron will have to be disassembled. Dismantling the iron begins with removing the back cover. Difficulties may arise here due to the lack of a suitable bit for the head of self-tapping screws. For example, I don't have bits for an asterisk-type slot with a pin in the center, and I unscrew such self-tapping screws with a flat screwdriver with a suitable blade width. After removing the cover from the iron, all contacts necessary for finding a faulty part in the iron will become available. It will be possible, without further disassembling the iron, to check the integrity of the power cord, the serviceability of the heating element and the thermostat.
As you can see in the photo of the Philips iron, three wires come out of the power cord, which are connected with crimp terminals to the terminals of the iron in insulation of different colors. The color of the insulation is the marking of the wires.
Although there is no international standard yet, most European and Asian manufacturers of electrical appliances have adopted yellow-green mark the ground wire with the color of the insulation (which is usually denoted in Latin letters PE), brown - phase ( L), light blue - neutral wire ( N). The letter designation, as a rule, is applied to the body of the iron next to the corresponding terminal.
Insulated conductor yellow-green color is grounding, serves for safety, and does not affect the operation of the iron. Leads are wires in brown and light blue isolation, so they need to be checked.
Using a table lamp
There are many ways to check the power cord of the iron and it all depends on what tools you have home master at hand. If there are no instruments at hand, then you can use the simplest method.
To do this, you first need to remove the cord terminals from the terminals of the iron. The clip-on terminals on the contacts of the iron are usually held by latches and in order for them to be easily removed, it is necessary to squeeze the latch with a sharp object, as shown in the photo. At the same time, at the same time, it is necessary to inspect the contacts for oxidation or burning, and if any are present, clean the contacts from the bottom and top to a shine with fine sandpaper. If the terminals are put on without effort, then you need to tighten them using pliers. Step-by-step instruction the repair of terminal connections in the photographs is given in the article "Restoring the contact of the terminals". After that, you need to put the terminals in their places and check the operation of the iron by connecting it to the network. It is quite possible that this was the malfunction and the iron will work.
If the terminal connections are in order, then you need to remove the terminals attached to the brown and blue wires and connect them to the pins of the plug of any electrical appliance using insulating tape, it is best for this table lamp with an incandescent or LED light bulb. The switch in the desk lamp must be in the on position. After that, plug the iron into the network and wrinkle the iron wire at the point where it enters the body and at the plug. If the table lamp shines steadily, it means that the iron wire is working properly and you will have to continue looking for a malfunction.
With phase indicator
Checking a tubular electric heater (TEN)
Heating elements fail in irons extremely rarely, and if the heating elements are faulty, then the iron has to be thrown out. To check the heating element, it is enough to remove only the back cover from it. Usually, the terminals of the heating element are connected to the extreme terminals and, as a rule, the terminals of the heating indicator are connected to the same terminals. Therefore, if the indicator is on, but there is no heating, then the reason for this may be a break in the coil of the heating element or poor contact at the welding points of the iron leads to the contact rods coming out of the heating element.
There are models of irons, such as the Braun model, shown in the photograph, in which the thermostat is included in the gap of one output of the heating element, and the thermal fuse in the gap of the other. In this case, if the thermal fuse is faulty, then an erroneous conclusion can be made about the malfunction of the heating element. The final conclusion about the condition of the heating element can be made only after the complete disassembly of the iron.
Checking the health of the iron thermostat
In order to get to the thermostat for checking, you need to disassemble the iron completely. The handle of the iron and the plastic part of the body are attached to its metal part with screws and latches. There are a huge number of models of irons, even from one manufacturer, and the methods of fastening in each of them are different, but there are general rules.
One attachment point is usually located in the area of \u200b\u200bthe iron spout and the plastic case is fixed with a self-tapping screw, as in this photo of the Philips iron. In this model, the self-tapping screw is located under the steam volume adjustment knob. To get to the head of the self-tapping screw, you need to turn the handle counterclockwise until it stops and pull it up. After removing the steam adjustment unit, the self-tapping screw can be unscrewed.
On the Braun model I had to repair, the self-tapping screw was hidden under the decorative cap of the water nozzle. To unscrew the self-tapping screw, I had to remove the nozzle. It just fits snugly. By the way, so it can be removed for cleaning in case of clogging.
The second attachment point is usually in the area where the power cord comes in. The plastic body of the iron can be fastened either with self-tapping screws or with latches. The Philips iron shown in the photo uses a threaded mounting method. Fastening with self-tapping screws from the point of view of the maintainability of the iron is preferable, since during disassembly the risk of damage to the fasteners of the plastic case is reduced.
And in the Braun iron model, the plastic part of the case with the handle is secured with two latches hooked onto the lugs. For disassembly, you need to disengage the latches by spreading them to the sides.
This work must be done carefully so as not to break the latches and lugs. The latches are disengaged, and now the body part with the handle can be separated from the iron. It, in turn, is attached to the adapter cover with screws or flags.
In this photo of a Philips iron, the lid is secured to the soleplate with three self-tapping screws. Before unscrewing the screws, you need to remove the power-on indicator, which is held with the help of captive terminals on the iron terminals.
And on the Braun iron, the lid is fixed to the soleplate with four metal flags threaded through the slots and turned. To release the cover, you need to turn the flags with pliers so that they become along the slots. In this iron, two flags at the spout rusted completely, and I had to bend a special adapter from a steel strip and cut two threads in it for screw fastening.
After removing the cover, the thermostat assembly will become available for continuity and repair. First of all, you need to inspect the condition of the contacts. The Philips iron also has a thermal fuse in the thermostat assembly. When cold, the contacts must be closed.
If a appearance contacts does not cause suspicion, then you need to ring them using an arrow tester or multimeter, included in the minimum resistance measurement mode. The photo on the left shows the circuit for the continuity of the contacts of the thermal fuse, and on the right - the thermostat. The multimeter should read zero. If the multimeter shows 1, and the pointer tester is infinity, then there is a malfunction in the contacts, they are oxidized and require cleaning.
The check of the contacts of the thermostat unit can also be checked using the indicator for finding the phase according to the method of checking the power cord described above, touching one and the other contacts in sequence. If the indicator shines when touching one contact, but not to the other, then the contacts are oxidized.
You can do without checking by immediately cleaning the contacts of the thermostat and thermal fuse with sandpaper. Then turn on the iron, it should work.
If there are no devices at hand for checking the contacts, then you can turn on the iron and use a screwdriver blade with a well-insulated plastic handle to short-circuit the contacts. If the indicator lights up and the iron starts to heat up, then the contacts are burnt. Do not forget about extreme caution.
To clean the contacts, you need to put a narrow strip of fine sandpaper between the contacts and stretch it a dozen times. Then turn the strip 180 ° and clean the second contact of the contact pair. It is useful to clean the thermostat contacts to extend the life of the iron if, for example, when repairing the steam supply system, the iron had to be disassembled.
Examples of self-repairing irons
Recently I had to repair two faulty irons brand Braun and Philips. I will describe the malfunctions that had to be eliminated.
Braun Electric Iron Repair
The iron did not heat up, the indicator did not light at any position of the thermostat adjustment knob. When bending the power cord, the iron did not show signs of operation.
After removing the back cover, it was found that the supply voltage is supplied through the terminal block. Access to the plug-in terminals was difficult. The wire marking was in accordance with the generally accepted color coding. The iron had already been repaired earlier, as evidenced by the broken off left latch on the terminal block.
The external view of the removed terminal block is shown in the photo. It also has a neon lamp to indicate the supply voltage to the heating element.
The input contact rails of the supply voltage were covered in places with an oxide film of rust. This could not cause the iron to break down, which was confirmed by connecting it after removing traces of rust from the contacts with sandpaper.
After completely disassembling the iron, the thermal fuse and the thermostat contacts were ringed using a multimeter. The thermal fuse shows a resistance of zero ohms, and the thermostat contacts are infinity.
Inspection showed that the contacts were tightly adjacent to each other, and it became obvious that the reason for the failure lies in the oxidation of their surfaces. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper, the contact was restored. The iron began to heat up normally.
Philips electric iron repair
I got my Philips iron for repair after the owner cleaned the steam system. The thermostat was not working and the iron was heating up to the thermal cutoff temperature.
After completely disassembling the iron, it turned out that the ceramic pusher, which should be located between the bimetallic plate and the thermostat switch, is missing. As a result, the bimetallic plate was bent, but its movement was not transmitted to the switch, so the contacts were constantly closed.
The old iron, from which the pusher could be removed, was not at hand, there was no opportunity to buy a new one, and I had to think about what to make it from. But before making a pusher with your own hands, it was required to determine its length. The bimetallic plate and the switch had coaxial holes with a diameter of 2 mm, in which the standard pusher was previously fixed. To determine the length of the pusher, it was necessary to take an M2 screw and two nuts. To fix the screw, instead of the pusher, it was necessary to raise the thermostat by unscrewing one self-tapping screw.
Attention! The bimetallic plate comes into contact with the soleplate of the iron and has good electrical contact with it. The switch plate is connected to the electrical network. The screw is metal and is a good conductor of electric current. Therefore, touching the soleplate of the iron when carrying out the described adjustment must only be carried out with the iron plug removed from the socket!
The screw was inserted into the hole of the bimetallic plate from below, as in the photo, and secured with a nut. Owing to the possibility of clockwise or counterclockwise rotation of the second nut, it became possible to adjust the height of the pusher simulator in order to adjust the thermostat to maintain the set temperature control knob.
The length of the pusher at which the heating temperature of the iron corresponds to the set position of the adjustment knob can be selected by doing test ironing. But for this you will have to assemble and disassemble the iron every time. It is much easier to use an electronic thermometer. Many multimeters have an external thermocouple temperature measurement function.
To measure the temperature of the sole, you need to put the handle on the thermostat and set it to the position marked with one, two or three circles opposite the pointer on the iron body. Then fix the thermocouple on the soleplate of the iron, fix the soleplate in an upright position and turn on the iron. When the temperature of the sole stops changing, take a reading.
As a result of the experiment, it was determined that a pusher with a length of about 8 mm was required. Since the iron inside the body can be heated to a temperature of 240 ° C, the pusher had to be made of a heat-resistant material. A resistor caught my eye and I remembered that in it a resistive layer is applied to a ceramic tube. The 0.25 W resistor is just the right size, and its shortened copper leads threaded through the holes will serve well as clamps.
The resistor will fit any value. Before installing in the iron, the resistor was heated to red on the gas column burner and the burnt paint layer and resistor spraying were removed using sandpaper. Everything has been removed down to the ceramics. If you use a resistor with a nominal value of more than 1 megohm, which you need to be 100% sure of, then you can not remove the paint and the resistive layer.
After preparation, the resistor was installed instead of the ceramic spacer and the ends of the bends were slightly bent to the sides. The iron was assembled and the thermostat was retested, which confirmed that the temperature was maintained within the limits given in the table.
What is the maximum temperature that my Philips iron can reach?
When calibrating the thermostat, I decided at the same time to find out what maximum temperature an electric iron can heat up.
For this, the leads of the thermostat and thermal fuse were short-circuited. As you can see in the photo, the device showed 328 ° С. When the sole was heated to this temperature, the iron had to be turned off for fear that its plastic part could be damaged.
