The bathroom is quite different from other rooms high level humidity. That is why the choice of materials must be taken very seriously. They must not only be presentable, but also withstand all the loads that will be applied to the room. Ideal option For the bathroom there is tile. In addition, it is worth noting that the walls in the bathroom can be done independently. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic recommendations and prepare the necessary equipment.

Ceramic tiles are an integral part of the bathroom design and create its interior.

Equipment for work

To lay tiles on the walls, you need to have a minimum set of tools that will be used to cut (if necessary) and attach the elements to the surface:

  • trowel;
  • spatula with a serrated edge;
  • two levels: medium and small;
  • plumb line;
  • rubber hammer;
  • container for preparing adhesive solution;
  • tile cutter;
  • sandpaper;
  • pliers.

Laying tiles is conventionally divided into several stages, the implementation of which must be of the highest quality, since this can affect durability and appearance.

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Quantity calculation

In order to buy the required amount of material, it is worth making calculations. First you need to calculate the area of ​​the walls. Also, when calculating, it is very important to take into account the fact that the tiles can be cut. Therefore, it is worth taking tiles with a small margin (in case something breaks during cutting).

As for calculating the adhesive solution, you can find out the required quantity by reading the recommendations on the packaging. With proper preparation and use of the adhesive composition, it will not go away. a large number of substances.

Laying tiles in the bathroom should be done on a flat, treated surface. If the walls have unevenness, they need to be eliminated. To do this, the surface can be leveled with plaster or plasterboard sheets. When leveling with plaster mortar, beacons must be installed on the surface.

If gypsum board is used, it is very important that it is moisture resistant. After the walls are leveled, they must be covered with antiseptic solutions that will prevent the formation of fungus and mold. Only a flat surface will ensure high-quality laying of tiles.

There are a large number of tile options.

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Marking and installation

When the base is completely dry after the preparatory work, you can begin marking. Bathroom tiles are laid from below. In order to ensure that the horizontal line is strictly maintained and the tiles do not float down, it is necessary to install a special support.

To calculate at what height to install it, you need to measure the height of the wall from ceiling to floor. Based on this size, you can calculate how many solid tiles (including seams) fit on the wall. It is worth carrying out such calculations very carefully so that in the end there will be a solid tile under the ceiling. This arrangement makes it possible to get a good appearance. In turn, the cut tile will be located above the floor, where it will be practically invisible.

Can be used as a support wooden slats and a special metal corner. This auxiliary element is attached to the wall concrete base, fastening should be done using dowels. If the walls were previously leveled with plasterboard and a metal profile frame, then the support must be secured to the profiles. In order to install such a support exactly along a horizontal line, it is worth using a hydraulic level. An additional element in the marking process will be a vertical line, which is outlined using a plumb line. Thanks to it, you can control the quality of tile laying.

In addition to the floor and walls in the bathroom, you can also tile the screen under the bathtub and cover the pipes.

During the repair work The question of decorating a room often arises. Construction market rich in choice of finishing materials. And in the midst of all this, it is easy to get confused. Gypsum tiles are one of the options for finishing the room as a whole and some interior elements. Let's say this tile can be used to decorate or. Installing gypsum tiles will not be difficult, since it is a lightweight material that is easy and pleasant to work with.

Gypsum tiles on the wall

All Construction Materials have their advantages over others and differ in their disadvantages. Gypsum tiles have the following differences:

  1. Lightness of the material. This tile is relatively light in weight.
  2. Fire resistance. The tile doesn't burn.
  3. The wear and tear of gypsum tiles can last for decades.
  4. The appearance after installation and final finishing is modern and original.
  5. Gypsum tiles do not release heat and do not let in extraneous sounds.
  6. Gypsum tiles do not contain toxic substances that adversely affect the health of people and animals.

DIY gypsum tiles

Despite a number of advantages, gypsum tiles have a number of disadvantages:


All of these shortcomings can, if desired, be eliminated. There is no difficulty in this.

The nuances of working with gypsum tiles

Before starting installation, you should familiarize yourself with the material, which has its own characteristics:


  • silicone material;
  • cement-based adhesive;
  • plaster – gypsum base.

Where is gypsum tile used?

Gypsum tiles are placed inside a living space (apartment, private house). In the apartment, tiles complement the design:


Emphasizing creativity and sophistication of design.

Preparatory work for tile installation

Before installing the tiles, preparation is required:


There is no need to prepare too much glue, it hardens. Having prepared a certain amount, it should be used, and then a new adhesive solution should be mixed.

Tiles on various surfaces

In order to glue gypsum tiles, the surface must be:

  • Durable so that it does not crumble old plaster, was not in terrible condition. If it is drywall, then it must be processed, that's all;
  • No unevenness. If there are uneven spots, they should be filled with putty. Comb and process the protrusions.

The surface can be made of various building materials. Depending on this, there are different approaches to installation:


Cutting gypsum tiles for laying on any surface

Installation of gypsum tiles

The work of laying gypsum tiles on the surface is expressed in the form of an algorithm of actions that should be followed:


Types of installation of gypsum tiles

Tiles can be installed in two ways:


Installation methods are selected based on the surface on which the tiles will be laid.

Gypsum tile joints

Joint jointing allows for sealing. And also prevent dust from getting into the gaps between the tiles.

For this procedure, you need a bag with a notched corner or a construction syringe gun.

A special cement composition is used for grouting.


Grouting joints when laying gypsum tiles

It renders natural stone or brick. To fill the joint, draw the solution into a syringe, slowly squeezing the mixture out of it, and go along the seam. After some time (the solution should harden a little), using a spatula, carefully press it into the seam. Using a trowel, after 30-45 minutes. remove all excess. The video shows the process of grouting gypsum tiles.

Final finishing

The seams should be polished. To do this, all joints must be coated with paint of a suitable color. This should be done with a thin brush. After the paint has dried, varnish is applied.

Not all walls are suitable for gluing external tiles - it depends on the material of the wall and the insulation on it. For some external walls or insulation, you may need, for example, facade tiles with metal fasteners. In general, facade tiles for exterior decoration can be attached in a few ways - either glued to the surface, or screwed to the wall, or mounted in clamps on the frame.

And in any case, the determining moment at will be exactly what base is under it. Based on the base material, the method of attaching the external decorative material, and the view itself decorative covering Same.

This means that you will not be able to mount it on weak foundations, for example, precisely because of its weight. In the same way, you will not be able to install a wet plaster facade on the walls of an old wooden house due to the fact that over time such a facade will collapse - the foundation for it will be too fragile.

As usual, tiles are attached to foam plastic

Decorative facade tiles on foam plastic can be fixed in two ways - glued and fixed to the frame.

Let's immediately focus on frame version. Polystyrene foam is a flammable insulation material, no matter what foam manufacturers tell us. If the facade tiles are on foam plastic with a gap, then there may be a ventilation gap between the outer decorative coating and the insulation.

In the event of a fire, which is possible with this combination of “foam plastic – ventilation gap”, the fire will spread along the ventilation gap, covered on top with decorative tiles. It will be impossible to put out such a fire.

The only option when façade tiles on foam plastic can be attached to a frame is if the tiles are completely adjacent to the insulation and possible gluing of the foam-tile joint. In this option, there will be no air flow under the decorative coating along the insulation layer; starting a fire and maintaining combustion is impossible.

In the case when a classic one is used, facade tiles on foam plastic are attached with glue directly to the plaster reinforcing mesh.

You will also have to attach the clinker tiles to the glue, since it is unlikely to be possible to secure them with clamps on the facade.

Fastening facade tiles with self-tapping screws

When is installation done? facade tiles on a frame made of wood or metal, or mounted on old wooden walls from a log or timber, you can use self-tapping screws.

Not all façade tiles with self-tapping screws will stick to the wall. For example, it will not be possible to attach porcelain tiles or ceramic tiles. There are other ways to attach them.

But any lightweight decorative coating options - plastic or wooden - can be attached in just this way. Metal or with self-tapping screws can be attached directly to the walls of an old wooden house, or you can use lathing for such fastening.

If you need to fix heavy tiles - porcelain stoneware or ceramic facade - you will need metal fasteners.

Facade tiles with clamps

Porcelain stoneware facade tiles with metal fasteners - clamps - can be mounted on any walls that can bear the weight of the fastening system and the mounted facade. That is, any brick, concrete or wooden walls can be lined with this material using the system metal frame and brackets holding .

Ceramic facade tiles with fastening with clamps can also be attached to all types of walls. The only limitation here will be the ability load-bearing wall withstand the weight of the hanging cladding material.

Independent production of facade tiles and fastenings

Can I make decorative facade tiles and fasteners for them myself? Of course yes. Previous materials on the site have already talked about how to make. The technology for producing facade tiles independently will be approximately the same.

The technology for producing tiles for outdoor use will be discussed in the following materials on the site, but you can see how home-made façade tiles with metal fasteners will be installed right now.

The diagram shows facade tiles with metal fasteners, arranged with, and fixed to external wall at home - this will be the general “pie” of the wall:

As you can see, it is clamps that are used, but you can use a homemade version of them, but not self-tapping screws. Why? Because such facade tiles on self-tapping screws will not be able to adhere properly to the wall, even if the screws have wide heads. The material of the facing panels itself will not withstand.
Thanks to a number of excellent qualities, extruded polystyrene foam is readily used in construction or during repair work. Installing expanded polystyrene on walls is not the only purpose...


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  • In an effort to create a facade with a solid appearance, we should take a closer look at tiles. Moreover, now the number of tiled materials has become simply enormous, and regardless of the direction of design thought, it is quite possible to decorate the exterior of a building in this way. Moreover, the tiles give the facade not only an attractive appearance, but also very numerous advantages.

    • Facade tiles do not require reinforcement of the foundation, unlike the same facing brick;
    • The variety of shapes, colors and textures allows you to use tiles in almost any design;
    • The tiles withstand all natural and physical influences and do not react to acids, alkalis and other aggressive chemical compounds;
    • Some types of facade tiles practically do not absorb water, which not only protects the walls from moisture, but also allows the cladding to survive freezing and thawing cycles without damage;
    • The material is unpretentious and can be effectively cleaned with improvised means (with some exceptions).

    The only drawback of the tile material is its price. And even though prices within the category itself can be very different, in general this façade finishing option cannot exactly be called budget. As a compromise, you can cover not the entire wall with tiles, but only its fragments, thus creating interesting visual solutions.

    Types of facade tiles

    • Clinker tiles. Made from high-quality clay without impurities such as carbonate or salt, which is fired at extremely high temperatures. high temperature at 1300 degrees Celsius. The result is an extremely smooth material with the lowest absorbency of all analogues. Water hardly penetrates into the tiles, so they are ideal for outdoor use. In addition, there is a composite option finishing material, consisting of clinker and insulation mounted with it;
    • Porcelain tiles. The material is obtained from a mixture of clay, sand, dyes, and various additives. Unlike many types of tiles, the color in this case does not change along the entire length, so damage is not visible on such tiles. At the same time, porcelain stoneware is environmentally friendly, has dimensions convenient for installation, and is also mounted on a frame, which makes it possible to place insulation under it. The material is frost-resistant and absorbs very little moisture, which makes it extremely durable;
    • Agglomerate. An interesting alternative to marble, which is also beautiful, but cheaper. They are obtained from marble and quartz fragments, and the finished product has extremely high resistance to abrasion and many external influences. Most often used in commercial establishments and institutions, but also used in residential construction;
    • Facade ceramics. The use of tiles outside is extremely undesirable, since the material will quickly crack under natural influences. But if you really want to decorate your home in this way, then you can find something made from special facade ceramics;
    • Concrete tiles. Attractive in appearance and resistant to many influences, tiles that are attached to a frame, and are also interesting because they can be made with their own hands if cement and a mold are available;
    • Terracotta tiles. Unlike many of the options presented above, it is laid on the mortar directly on the wall. So in this case you will have to use the less preferred internal insulation. It is made from kaolin clay, fired at a temperature of 1000 degrees. It is not very attractive due to its limited range of colors (dyes are not used in production), as well as poor resistance to high humidity, which over time leads to the material falling away from the base.

    Deciding on the quantity

    Having decided on the tile, you will need to know exactly its size, which will help you calculate the required quantity to purchase. To do this, we must calculate the area of ​​​​the surfaces to be finished, multiplying the length of the walls by the height and subtracting the area of ​​​​the windows and doorways(in case all walls are finished). After this, the resulting area must be divided by the area of ​​the tile, and this will be the required amount of material. In this case, you need to add about 10 percent - the extra tile will come in handy to compensate for scraps and breakage.

    Facing

    There are types of tiles that can only be mounted on a frame, or exclusively using the “wet” method - by fixing it to a solution. In general, the first method is much preferable, since “wet” work is not carried out on all types of walls, and besides, hanging tiles on the frame allows you to install a layer of thermal insulation and moisture insulation under it. This is much more effective than installing internal insulation, since it does not lead to freezing of the walls, and also does not reduce the usable space in the premises.

    Important! External insulation is also installed during “wet” facade work. To do this, a mounting mesh is hung on the solid insulation and plaster is applied. However, you need to remember that tile is a very difficult material that needs a solid base, such as a wall or profile.

    This method is called a ventilated facade, and is the most attractive and progressive at the moment. The frame installation process itself is as follows:

    • The direction of the structure is selected - vertical or horizontal. The choice is made depending on the shape of the tile itself;
    • The frame can be either metal or wood. Insulation is placed in its gaps, and the guides themselves are installed at a distance corresponding to the size of the tile;
    • The tiles are installed using self-tapping screws or hiding the fasteners. Usually the process occurs in a checkerboard pattern.

    As for the “wet” method, here it is generally identical to what happens when installing tiles. However, it should be noted that a different composition is used for gluing - one that can withstand temperature changes, humidity and other external natural influences.

    At the same time, the wall, as in interior decoration tiles must be perfectly leveled, which greatly increases the amount of work. At frame method the unevenness of the walls can simply be neglected. In this case, the finishing itself is carried out in warmth and in the absence of high humidity. Otherwise, the adhesive will take too long to dry.

    Exterior decoration of a house can be done in various ways, from applying plaster materials to in various ways sheathing installations.

    The choice of one type of finish or another depends on the capabilities of the owner, his aesthetic preferences or the availability of a certain material.

    In addition, the choice is often based on the ability to perform the work independently.

    In this regard, facade tiles are a material that has the widest range of possibilities.

    Unlike siding or facade panels, having a certain general technological sequence of installation, are available in many versions and do not have a uniform installation technique.

    Depending on the design, it can be laid using traditional technology, or installed using methods similar to the siding installation technique. The main difference between facade tiles and other types of exterior finishing is the independent installation of each element, a wide variety of types, materials and appearance.

    Facade tiles are a material that has many different types manufacturing and installation options.

    Installation possible:

    • For glue. The method is most similar to the methods of laying tiled coverings.
    • For fastening materials (screws, clamps, etc.).

    Can be used for the manufacture of facade cladding:

    • Porcelain tiles, artificial stone.
    • Cement mortar.
    • Plastic (polypropylene, vinyl, etc.).
    • Fiber cement compositions.
    • Polymer sand.
    • Basalt.
    • Asbestos-cement, etc.

    It differs in:

    • wood effect tiles;
    • concrete;
    • flexible;
    • polymer sand;
    • terracotta;
    • bitumen.

    The main task of façade cladding is to create protective coating a house that can withstand external atmospheric manifestations and has high decorative qualities. TO appearance finishing has a special relationship, since it is the external effect that is the first thing that catches your eye when looking at any house.

    In this regard, facade tiles break all records - types of imitation stone or wooden surface she has the largest number. All design options used in the production of siding, facade panels and other cladding are used in the manufacture of facade tiles.

    NOTE!

    Unlike all types of exterior cladding, some types of facade tiles can be quite successfully made with your own hands. Basically, this is the casting of various cement-containing solutions into existing molds from special latex. This method is attractive because the production of the material is carried out directly on site. In addition, if any section fails, there will be no problems with replacing the cladding.

    Accessories for facade tiles

    The presence of components is not typical for all types of facade tiles. Many types of material are laid using conventional technology and do not require additional elements. This situation is typical for small material.

    If the elements are quite large in size, then it will not be easy to do without specialized parts. Usually made corner profiles, making it possible to carefully veneer the external (in some cases, internal) corners of the house.

    In addition, fastening elements such as clamps, mounting brackets, etc. can be used as component materials. For some types of material, manufacturers provide for the creation of a subsystem - a supporting structure for installation to form a ventilation facade.

    At the same time, most types of tiles intended for dry installation are not strictly tied to the type of subsystem and can be installed on any planks - wooden or metal.

    Plastering and surface reinforcement

    Tiles that are installed with adhesive require a smooth and uniform base. The walls of a house, especially if the building is older, may have a large number of different flaws - cracks, dents, peeling or crumbling areas. In addition, external insulation can be installed on the wall surface, requiring a dense layer to be applied on top for laying the tiles.

    The best base is a layer of plaster. If it is applied to a rigid base, then you can do without reinforcement, but if you are plastering relatively soft insulation, or the wall material is loose and prone to crumbling, then for the strength or resistance of the plaster to mechanical stress you will need to use a reinforcing mesh.

    A metal or fiberglass mesh is used, which is installed on the insulation or on the wall and a layer of plaster is applied on top of it.

    When using beacons (guides) to level the surface of the plaster layer, the reinforcing mesh is installed in advance, before installing the beacons.

    It is necessary to understand that the presence of a mesh does not prevent cracks from appearing or strengthens the wall material. The mesh serves to increase the strength of the plaster, without contributing to the strength of adhesion to wall materials. Therefore, on problem walls, before plastering, all weak areas should be removed as much as possible, after which a layer of deep penetration primer should be applied.

    When plastering over insulation, first of all you need to apply a layer of mortar onto it with a notched trowel, lightly press the mesh into it, then, on top of it, apply another layer. Then the mesh will be inside the layer, which will allow it to perform its functions to the maximum extent.

    Surface preparation

    The wall surface should be cleared of all foreign objects attached to it - remove all lights, disconnect trims, gutters, brackets, air conditioners, etc. Then you should carefully inspect the wall, determining the quality of the surface, the condition of the material and the number of problem areas.

    Existing cracks should be opened with a spatula to ensure their depth and to facilitate access to the plaster material. Delaminations or shedding must be removed as much as possible; the entire wall must be strong, without problem areas, and reliable.

    After cleaning the wall, apply a double coat of primer with an intermediate drying period. It is recommended to pre-fill large potholes with mortar so that the subsequent layer is more even.

    Surface marking

    If you plan to install tiles on a subsystem, then preliminary marking of the surface will be required. It is necessary that the location of the sheathing strips corresponds to the tile attachment points. To do this, measure the distance between adjacent fastening elements vertically and horizontally and, taking into account the obtained values, apply markings on the wall with the resulting pitch.

    When performing the operation, it is necessary to control the horizontal and vertical using building level. If you plan to use corner profiles, then when marking you should take into account the features of their installation and ensure the appropriate arrangement of the strips.

    Setting the initial (starting) bar

    The tile starter strip serves as a reference line to ensure that the first (bottom) row is installed level and level. Since the design of the façade tiles does not have any lock connecting to the starting strip, an ordinary flat strip of any material is sufficient to support the bottom row; later it will still be removed.

    Installation of the starting strip is carried out along a line drawn along the perimeter of the house strictly horizontally and corresponding to the bottom cut of the first row of tiles.

    Methods of fixing tiles

    Depending on the design, the method of fastening facade tiles may be different.:

    • “Wet” method - using an adhesive composition. Specialized types of adhesives are used that are intended for tile materials (porcelain tiles, fiber cement, clinker, etc.).
    • Fastening with self-tapping screws. It is possible to have a hidden fastening (hidden seam), or open with a visible fastening location.
    • The use of various mechanical fasteners - for example, clamps. With this method, fixation is carried out using specialized devices that best match the material used in size and other indicators, but significant secrecy of the fasteners cannot be achieved - the clamps are noticeable on the surface of the tile. If the size is small, this spoils the overall appearance of the cladding.
    • Facade tiles with metal fasteners.

    Typically, each type of tile is designed for a specific installation method, which cannot be changed.


    Preparation of the adhesive composition

    To lay tiles, you should use specialized or, at a minimum, types of adhesives that are most suitable for their characteristics. It is sold in dry form and must be diluted with water to a certain consistency.

    The thickness of the finished solution should be such that the glue can be applied freely, does not drain from the surface, but is not too viscous. There are a great many types of glue, to exclude possible errors Please read the instructions for use on the packaging.

    Accurate adherence to the instructions, adherence to the dilution ratio and the holding time of the composition before use increase the strength of the adhesive and its adhesion to the tile and base.

    Tile laying technology

    The tiles are laid from the bottom up in the direction corresponding to its design (especially if there is a hidden seam). The glue is applied with a notched trowel to the surface of the wall and to the tile, and the direction of the glue strips should be transverse - if the lines on the wall are horizontal, then on the tile they are vertical.

    NOTE!

    For most types of tiles, pre-soaking is not necessary, but the porous surface of the base must be moistened with water.

    How to tile corners and openings

    If there are appropriate corner profiles for the tiles, then they are used to decorate the outer corners of the house and window or door openings. If such elements are not provided, then the corners are formed in the same way as when applying ordinary tiles - by precise adjustment of the material and careful installation in the corners.

    In any case, the outer corners are tiled first, then the window and door openings are decorated. If there are corner profiles, then the openings are formed with them, but if only tiles are used, then the slopes should first be faced, and the outer frame of the opening is made integral with the wall canvas.

    Grouting joints

    The seams between the tiles must be grouted, i.e. filling gaps to prevent water from entering wall materials. For grouting, the same types of adhesive are used that were used during installation, or special compositions for external use; the method of application depends on the type of tile and its design features.

    At the same time, not all types of tiles need grouting, but only those that are installed with glue and have gaps. When applying grout, you must be careful as many types of grout are difficult to remove from the tile surface. It is recommended to remove excess glue immediately before it sets.

    Useful video

    In this video you will learn how to lay facade tiles:

    Conclusion

    Using facade tiles is a more labor-intensive option for exterior finishing than, for example, installing siding, but as a result you can get your own version of the coating. Many options for choosing both material and pattern or color of the tiles make it possible to implement a variety of design ideas and create a strong decorative effect.

    At the same time, the protective properties of the tiles, which provide protection from atmospheric moisture and the effects of temperature, make it possible to increase the service life of the walls of the house.

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