The soil is good for indoor plants. Which soil is best for flowers and indoor plants? Main brands of soils

Useful solutions for growing plants are made by mixing ordinary soil with various additives (other types of soil, sand, etc.).

For flowers growing in pots, the roots take up quite a bit of space and grow to a small size, so the soil should contain a lot of substances useful for the plant.

1. Ground from cut turf(also known as Turf Soil), it is added to many soil solutions. It contains a lot of different components that are useful for flowers. Among the disadvantages, one can note its predisposition to compaction.

2. Leaf humus(also known as leaf or foliage soil). This kind of soil is obtained as a result of the debate of fallen leaves. It contains a lot of useful components, it distinctive features: lightness, prone to loosening. This type of soil is used for growing flowers that cannot tolerate humus consisting of manure. This type of soil is stored from the forest, taking the surface layer of the earth. The accumulated foliage is placed in piles up to one and a half meters high, the whole thing is moistened with liquefied manure, and after two years this soil is ready for use.

3. Sand from rivers, they perform the function of loosening the earth. It is preferable to use sand consisting of large grains of sand. Also, it improves the quality of clay soils.

4. Manure humus. Such land is formed as a result of mixing rotted manure and humus from greenhouses. Just like compost, it is laid in piles. The peculiarity of this earth is that it is very crumbly, soft and moisture-absorbing, it enhances the qualities of earthen mixtures.

5. Peat humus- This is a crumbly, airy, well-absorbing mass that is formed due to the rotting of bog peat. This mass improves the properties of the earth. Adding it to the soil increases its subacidity, therefore it is worth carefully monitoring the level of acid, both the added mass and the soil to which it is added, and if something happens, dilute the soil with a mixture of limestone and chalk.

6. Sphagnum, it is mixed with soil to increase its airiness, friability and ability to absorb water vapor from the air. It is worth noting that before adding, sphagnum must be passed through a sieve. Soil mixed with sphagnum is suitable for growing lilies of the valley and orchids.

Classification of earth solutions

Thus, in order to make useful earthen solutions, you need to consider the planting conditions of the various flowers for which they are made. However, it is very difficult to study the requirements for each plant, which is why earth solutions are classified for plants with similar planting conditions:

Heavy solution. Consists of five components. The first three are cut turf soil, the fourth is humus, the fifth is river sand.
Medium weight solution. It is made from two portions of chopped turf soil, two portions of leaf humus, two portions of ordinary humus and one portion of coarse sand from rivers.
Lightweight solution. Prepared from one portion of turf soil, three parts leaf humus and one portion of river sand.

Based on high peat (decomposed sphagnum moss that grows in high bogs) - contains minimal amount mineral substances, is characterized by breathability, good water absorption and moisture retention. This substrate is often used as temporary soil when transporting plants, as well as for selling potted plants.

Based on lowland peat (extracted from lowland swamps, lakes and rivers) - it is characterized by the presence of a large amount of minerals and retains moisture well. However, it cakes quickly, takes a long time to dry out, and as a result, plant roots often rot. Soil based on lowland peat is used as a component of a soil mixture prepared independently, but not as an independent substrate.

Based on vermicompost (a product of manure processed by earthworms) - rich in organic substances and living organisms. Such soil is used as a component of the soil mixture to enrich it. Vermicompost is an alternative to humus.

Special primer for indoor flowers

For orchids– a mixture of peat, charcoal, crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss. For epiphytes, they do not use soil, but pieces of pine bark or driftwood wrapped in sphagnum moss.
For azalea– high-moor peat, pine needles, sand. The soil is moderately acidic and loose, with a low content of nutrients.
For palm trees– a soil mixture of high-moor peat, leaf and turf soil, sand. The soil is nutritious, with a neutral reaction.
For cacti– sand, leaf soil or high-moor peat, depending on the group of cacti (there are forest and desert).
For violets– high-moor peat, sand, coniferous soil, charcoal, sphagnum moss.
For ferns– peat, sand, humus.

But don't think that ready-made mixtures ideal for the plants mentioned above. There are many species of the same genus, naturally growing in different conditions. Therefore, when purchasing ready-made soil, it must be supplemented with the components necessary for a specific type of plant.

Some specialized soils are suitable for growing other types of plants. Usually such information is indicated on the packaging.

What to look for when choosing ready-made soil

Soil for flowers:

must allow air to pass through;
must be nutritious;
should not retain moisture for a long time;
must not contain pests or pathogens;
soil acidity must correspond to the level needed specific species plants.

Thus, you need to approach the selection and preparation of soil responsibly, because certain types of plants require a certain soil, otherwise the wrong choice of soil can lead to the death of the plant, or in any case, the flower can get sick or lose its properties.

To propagate and grow indoor flower plants, various garden soils are needed. If you have turf, leaf, peat, humus, compost and heather soil, you can create various nutrient mixtures in accordance with the needs of a given plant.

Sod land harvested on dry meadows with rich grass stand consisting of cereals and clover. It is better to do this in June – July. The turf is cut manually with a shovel into layers 10 cm thick, 25 cm wide, and up to 50 cm long. The turf is placed in stacks, grass to grass, standing and up to 1 m wide. The layers can be interlayered with slurry and sprinkled with superphosphates at the rate of 1 kg per 1 m3 of turf . Since water contributes to the rotting of plant residues, a depression must be made in the upper part of the stack to accumulate rainwater. During the summer, the stack is needed by the end of the second year. The turf land will be ready for use only by the end of the second year.

This mixture is classified as heavy garden soil due to its high mineral content. Before use, it must be sifted through a screen.

Turf soil can be used to make many earthen mixtures. IN pure form it is used for growing citrus fruits, dracaenas, and palm trees.

Peat land. To prepare it, peat is used, which consists of decomposing plant remains. It must be harvested from bog chernozem - raw peat from moss bogs, which is placed in low piles up to 70 cm high.

Over the course of 2–3 years, it is shoveled several times. The result is loose, humus-rich peat soil. Well suited for growing ferns, orchids, rhododendrons, as well as for sowing small seeds.

compost soil. It is obtained by composting waste of animal and plant origin in piles or pits. They are moistened with slurry, limed and sprinkled with peat crumbs on top. Over the next 2 years, the mass is mixed and moistened several times.

Compost soil can be used when sowing summer plants (except for aster, gillyflower and begonia).

In a mixture with turf and grass, it can be replaced in the absence of humus soil.

heather land harvested in coniferous forests, where heather grows in great abundance. The thickness of heather soil usually does not exceed 3 cm. In summer, heather soil is raked and placed in piles, periodically moistened. After a year, it can be used to prepare soil mixtures for growing azaleas, camellias and others. indoor plants. Instead of heather soil, you can prepare a mixture: 4 parts peat mixture, 2 parts leaf and 1 part sand.

Leaf humus. It is harvested in deciduous forests, raking half-rotted leaves into low piles. During the summer, they need to be shoveled several times, while not forgetting to water them. After 2 years, this soil can be used in a mixture with turf. It is suitable for growing basic potted crops. It can completely replace heather soil if used in a mixture with peat and sand. It is especially suitable for those cultivated plants that are not suitable for greenhouse manure soil.

It should be noted that the best leaves are linden, maple, and all fruit tree species. It is better not to use oak and willow leaves, as they contain tannins.

Humus soil. It is obtained from rotted manure, which at the end of summer, together with the top layer of soil, is removed from the greenhouses and placed in piles. During the season it is periodically stirred and, if necessary, moistened. After final decomposition, it can be used to make mixtures when growing potted plants.

Humus soil is rich in various nutrients, which is necessary for good and rapid plant growth.

Moss, like sand, it does not provide nutrients to plants. It is used dried and crushed, which is harvested in high bogs. Before use, it must be steamed and dried to kill harmful insects. A layer of 1 cm is used to cover drainage in pots. Moss is also tied around the base of palm trunks to promote the development of new adventitious roots.

It is good to mix crushed moss into the soil: it absorbs water well and retains it for a long time.

Charcoal. It is added to earthen mixtures when growing indoor plants that do not tolerate excess moisture. Charcoal is used in earth mixtures, crushed up to 1 cm in diameter, when growing succulents and cacti. When breeding tuberous begonia and cyclamen, the cut parts of the tubers are sprinkled with coal powder.

Charcoal is also used as an antiseptic and protects roots from rotting. Experienced gardeners prefer birch charcoal.

Sand does not provide plants with any nutrients, but when mixed with soil it provides better air access to the roots. Therefore, it is necessary in all earthen mixtures. Coarse river sand is considered the best. For cuttings of azaleas, camellias and other plants that are difficult to root, you need to use fine white sand.

Acidic and slightly acidic soils are preferred by:

Goriginalhmixtures for indoor plants.

On sale you can find the so-called “single garden mixture”, special “universal earthen mixtures” for different groups of plants, peat-mineral mixtures (they are best used for rooting cuttings and growing seedlings), artificial substrates. In the store, you can get advice from the sellers about which mixture is suitable for what; in extreme cases, the packaging will indicate the basic properties, such as acidity and approximate composition. Recently, instructions have increasingly provided lists of plants for which this soil mixture is intended.

Sometimes the soil mixture is prepared for narrower groups of plants, for example; mixtures "Palm" or "Begonia". They can differ in both acidity and mechanical structure, degree of “lightness”, friability, as well as the presence of special additives such as pine bark, charcoal or bone meal. Some of the listed earth mixtures are very similar in composition, but are produced by different manufacturing companies.

Specialized mixtures are better than universal ones because they better take into account the individual soil requirements of plants. However, some plants are completely undemanding to soil; any “universal” soil mixture will suit them - this feature will be noted in the individual characteristics of the plants.

As a rule, earth mixtures are sold in bags of 2 kg, somewhat less often - 5 kg. Almost all are additionally fortified with nutrients.

Here is a list of the most commonly found soil mixtures on sale:

Folk ways to improve soil fertility

At self-training indoor mixture to improve fertility, manure, peat, litter, compost, eggshells, sawdust, and yeast are added to the garden soil.

humus– 0.5 kg,
peat– 2 kg in sandy soils, 1 kg in clayey soils.
dried bird droppings– 10 g,
mullein-shaped manure, from which slurry is prepared at a rate of 1:20, infuse for a week. Before applying to the soil, dilute it 2 times. This solution is often used to fertilize indoor plants for further care.
eggshells used to neutralize acidic soils.

Tip #2. Note! 10 g of ground shells neutralizes 10 liters of soil per pH unit.

Sawdust loosen heavy soils and are used in the form of mulch for maintenance. It is worth noting that only small shavings are suitable for indoor floriculture, and coniferous species acidify the soil, so they are used together with ash, eggshells or dolomite flour.

Some gardeners use sleeping flower to feed plants. Tea coffee, which improve the structure of the soil, feed it evenly, and regulate acidity.

A good additive is sugar, which replenishes the soil with glucose. To make it beneficial, EM preparations are added, for example, “Baikal - EM -1”. In its presence, sugar does not cause the growth of pathogens, but is converted into food for indoor plants.

It is easier to use ready-made fertilizers that are commercially available.

Serious mistakes gardeners make when preparing and caring for the soil

Application of greenhouse soil in indoor floriculture. It is not advisable to use soil from a greenhouse for indoor plants. In conditions of high humidity, fungal diseases develop, which are dangerous for potted crops.

Using the substrate for planting plants immediately after heat treatment. At high temperature Not only pests and diseases die, but also beneficial microorganisms. They can be restored with EM drugs, but this takes time, at least two weeks.

Specialized soil for indoor plants and flowers

SOIL FOR AZALEAS. The mixture is light, acidic, moisture- and breathable. IN store options The basis of the substrate should be high-moor peat. It is advisable to supplement the soil for azaleas with coniferous soil (1:1).

SOIL FOR BROMELIA. The mixture consists of high-moor peat, leaf soil and sand. It is advisable to add tree bark or coal, sphagnum and coniferous soil to the purchased soil.

SOIL FOR GARDENIAS. The mixture consists of high-moor peat and sand. It is advisable to add leafy and coniferous soil (1:1:1) to the purchased soil.

SOIL FOR CACTi AND SUCCULENTS. The mixture consists of sand with the addition of leaf soil and high-moor peat. In stores, you can add coarse sand as an option.

SOIL FOR ORCHIDS. For different types orchids need different nutritional substrates. For epiphytes, the soil mixture is prepared from bark, sometimes sphagnum moss and charcoal are added (peat is not allowed!).

You can buy bark of a certain fraction, boil it and plant the orchid without adding other components.

For other types of orchids, the substrate is prepared from peat, sphagnum, bark and coal.

SOIL FOR PALM TREES. The mixture consists of high-moor peat, turf and leaf soil with sand. Palm trees prefer a loose and breathable substrate. As plants age, the proportion of turf soil in the mixture gradually increases.

SOIL FOR FENS. You can prepare this mixture: soil for succulents + leaf humus(or vermicompost) in a 1:1 ratio.

The best period for replanting plants is from March to August. Autumn and winter are dormant periods; it is not recommended to replant plants at this time. It is not advisable to replant plants during the flowering period or the formation of buds - you must wait until the end of flowering.

IN hot weather Replanting indoor plants is not allowed. After the plant has been transplanted, it must be watered abundantly (except for cacti, they do not need to be watered), but at the same time minimize watering over the next week. Each container for houseplants should have holes in the bottom.

Through these holes, excess water is removed, stagnation of which can lead to root rot. When transplanting any plant, it is necessary to organize a drainage layer at the bottom of the bowl. This applies to all plants, even if it is stated that drainage is not required. And finally, the last piece of advice: replant plants in a good mood and with a smile, then your green pet will probably take root well and feel great in its new home.

Correct selection of soil for indoor plants is one of the most important tasks for the florist. To grow different types of plants, different soil mixtures are needed.

Correct selection of soil for indoor plants is one of the most important tasks for a gardener. To grow different types of plants, different soil mixtures are needed.

The main purpose of soil is to support the plant and conduct water and nutrients to the roots, and provide access to air. Providing the plant with nutrition is not the primary function of soils, so it is necessary to timely and correctly add nutrients to the substrate. Soils can be made not only from natural materials taken from nature, but also from artificial ones, for example, hydrogel, perlite or expanded clay.

When selecting soil for each specific plant, it is necessary to find out which soil is preferable in terms of acidity and composition.

Despite the wide variety of soils on store shelves, almost all of them are divided into several groups, where substances that regulate acidity, leavening agents (sand, expanded clay chips, perlite) and fertilizers are added to the base.

SOILS BASED ON HIGH PEAT

The majority of soils are like this. High-moor peat is the result of the decomposition of sphagnum moss, which grows in high-moor bogs. such peat is poor minerals and quickly loses fertility. Its advantages include lightness, hygroscopicity, breathability, and its disadvantages include a very high ability to retain water; at a certain soil moisture, the roots simply stop absorbing it and, on the contrary, after complete drying it is difficult to get wet.

SOILS BASED ON LOW PEAT

Lowland peat is extracted from lowland bogs, wetlands of rivers and lakes. It is heavy, richer in minerals, but they are released very slowly. It is better not to use it in its pure form, because it remains wet for a long time, has a fine structure and quickly cakes, making it difficult for air to reach the roots and causing them to rot. It can only be used as a component in the preparation of soil mixtures.

SOILS BASED ON BIOHUMUS

Vermicompost is obtained by processing manure with certain lines of earthworms; it contains not only a high percentage of organic substances, but also beneficial living microorganisms. It is used in small quantities to enrich the earth mixture; it can serve as a replacement for leaf or grass humus.

If you decide to prepare the earthen mixture yourself, then you need to prepare it several days before use. Most often it is mixed with sand, peat or simply enriched with fertilizers.

MIXTURES CAN BE LIGHT, MEDIUM AND HEAVY

The ratios of the components are given in an averaged form (various composition options are allowed, comparable in characteristics to the reference option given here) and approximate form: the volumes are determined “by eye” and do not require weighing to the nearest gram.

Light earth mixtures: consist of peat, deciduous soil or (in some cases these types of soil act as analogues of each other) heather, humus, and also sand. The ratio of components is 3:1:1:1.Medium earth mixtures: turf soil - 2 hours; humus - 2 hours; peat - 1 hour; sand - 1 tsp.Heavy earth mixtures: clay-turf soil - 3 hours; humus soil - 1 hour; sand - 1 hour.Often a less “specialized” soil mixture is prepared from garden soil, sand and peat in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Most indoor plants prefer a light soil mixture. Some components can be prepared independently, but the process is complex and often very lengthy (like the preparation of humus and deciduous soil, which usually takes two years), heather soil cannot be obtained everywhere, and peat bogs often take a long time to find. However, all or almost all of these components can be purchased individually in stores or markets. The choice will always be yours - make the soil for indoor plants yourself or buy a ready-made suitable substrate.

MAKING THE SOIL ON YOUR OWN

You may need the following components:

Turf soil - it has a fine lumpy structure, highly permeable to water and air, and contains a significant supply of nutrients. It can be collected from old pastures or meadows with slightly acidic soil reactions, or from fresh molehills in the forest. Turf land is used in greater quantities than other lands.

Leaf soil - it is formed from rotted leaves of linden, hazel, maple, elm, poplar, apple, and pear trees. Mixed with turf leaf soil is suitable for growing most potted crops.

Peat soil is formed from decomposing plant remains. It is prepared from raw peat of moss bogs. On peat mixtures or pure peat it is easy to provide balanced diet using complex mineral fertilizers. Plants that require acidic soil - hydrangeas, azaleas, and others - are grown on pure peat. For better water permeability, it is recommended to add baking powder - small expanded clay, pieces of foam plastic. Peat soil absorbs very a large number of moisture, therefore improves the properties of other soil.

Humus soil - it is formed by rotting manure and the top layer of soil mixed with it. Manure humus is loose, light, rich in nutrients, which contributes to the good growth of many crops.

Heather soil - it is mined in coniferous forests that abound in heather. The heather soil is dark gray in color and mixed with white sand. It has looseness and good permeability of water and air. It is used to prepare earthen mixtures for camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and a number of other plants. But heather soil cannot always be found, so it can be replaced with a mixture of leaf and peat soil and sand in a ratio of 2:4:1.

Coniferous land - it is harvested from a pine or fir forest. In this case, the top layer of undecomposed pine needles is discarded, and the bottom layer is removed. Before use, coniferous soil is constantly maintained in wet. This is loose, poor, acidic soil with a pH of 4-5. Serves integral part for plants that prefer an acidic soil reaction and require increased looseness of the substrate, for example, for precious orchids, azaleas and heather plants.

Fern roots - they are harvested from the species of aspidium, osmunda, polypodium, and kochededzhnik. They are cut from the rhizomes and stored in a dry room. Osmunda roots are considered the best. In chopped or crushed form, fern roots are used as a component in mixtures for epiphytic and semi-epiphytic plants.

Sand - it is advisable to take it in unpolluted places along river banks, but you can also buy it in flower shops. It serves as a good additional additive to ready-made soils for cacti and succulents, palm trees and other plants, prevents them from caking, and makes the soil waterproof.

Sphagnum moss - it grows in swamps. Older parts of it gradually die off, forming high-moor peat. Sphagnum is harvested in raised and transitional bogs in early autumn.

Charcoal - it contributes to the looseness and permeability of the soil and, in addition, acts as an antiseptic, protecting the roots from rotting. You can add it 3-8% of the total composition.

SOIL FOR DIFFERENT PLANTS

We do not always have the opportunity to collect all the necessary components for a soil mixture, then we use a purchased mixture. Soils, universal or specially formulated for individual crops, are made from peat with the addition of macro and microelements.

An average set of fertilizers, more or less meeting the needs of most crops, is included in universal soils - they are convenient if you have a rather motley collection of indoor plants. If the collection is dominated by representatives of one or more species or families, give preference to special soils, balanced taking into account the characteristics of these plants.

Soil for cacti and succulents - the main requirements for this soil are water permeability and poor nutrients. Such soils contain a large amount of sand (about half), the rest may be high-moor peat and leaf soil.

Soil for orchids - they usually contain several components - peat, sphagnum, coal, bark. The greatest confusion occurs with these substrates. There is no single soil for orchids, since among them there are groups of different habitats.

For terrestrial orchids, purchased soil meets the requirements, but there are epiphytic orchids that live on trees; such soil is absolutely not suitable for them. For this group it is necessary to use only bark, sometimes with the addition of sphagnum moss and pieces of charcoal, but in no case should peat be added.

Soil for orchids with the addition of high-moor peat in equal parts is optimal for anthuriums, philodendrons, monsteras, and bromeliads.

Soil for bromeliads - they consist mainly of high-moor peat with the addition of leaf soil and sand. To make it more loose, you can add small pieces of bark, chopped sphagnum, pine soil, and coal, or prepare it based on soil for orchids, adding about half of the universal soil based on high-moor peat.

Soil for palm trees is a loose and breathable substrate based on high-moor peat with the addition of sand, leaf and turf soil.

Fern soil is a loose, organic-rich mixture. To create a mixture, you can add leaf humus or vermicompost-based soil in equal parts to the soil for succulents.

The soil for Gesneriaceae is an acidic substrate based on high-moor peat. It is advisable to add a little sand or perlite, coniferous soil, coal; for greater moisture capacity and looseness, it is good to add cut sphagnum.

Soil for gardenias - it consists of high-moor peat and sand; you can add approximately equal parts of leaf and coniferous soil. Be sure to use only acidic mixtures.

The soil for azaleas is light, acidic, air- and moisture-permeable, based on high-moor peat, sometimes with the addition of coniferous soil.

The most common packaged soil on sale is called “Universal substrate for indoor plants.” This composition should be used only for non-capricious indoor plants, since it represents a basic mixture of various soil structures, often the least valuable. The quality of such a substrate leaves much to be desired, since this soil is often heavy in composition, easily forms lumps, and cakes quickly, therefore requiring the grower to add sand for flowability and lightness or other loosening materials when planting and replanting plants.

But the high peat content in universal soil leads either to its drying out too quickly or to the accumulation of moisture, depending on the grower’s inclinations to the frequency and abundance of watering. To protect the plant from itself, you should mix the universal substrate with sand or other leavening agents (perlite, vermiculite...).

The substrate for citrus fruits is always dense and nutritious, suitable for orange, calamondin, lemon, kumquat, Murraya, as well as for olive trees, palm trees, Mediterranean tree plants (bougainvillea, oleanders, coffee, jasmine, figs, pomegranate). The substrate for citrus fruits usually includes clay, sand, peat, and bark.

The substrate for pots with a water reservoir (for hydroponics) contains expanded clay and a porous mixture (synthetic or natural origin - perlite, pozzolan, polyacrylamide - hydrogel). Peat is rarely present in such a substrate, because this substrate must have good air permeability. And if peat is still present, then its share in the total volume should not exceed 50%.

Well, in conclusion, when purchasing any soil, you need to take into account its acidity. An example of acidic soil is peat soil, and alkaline soil is clay-turf soil. Chernozem soils are considered neutral.

Be sure to pay attention to this indicator, it plays a big role in the life of plants. Depending on the growth of the plant, it needs a substrate of varying acidity levels.

SOIL THAT USUALLY CAN BE FOUND IN OUR STORES:

Medium acidic, for azaleas (rhododendrons), rhipsalis, indoor sedges, platyceriums, sundews, blue hydrangeas.

Slightly acidic, for begonias, balsams, gloxinias, fuchsias, pili, pelargoniums, asparagus, jasmine, gisneria, ivy, fittonium, clivia, sansevier, chlorophytum, ginur, coleus, monstera, black and Spanish pepper, acalyph, nightshade.

Geranium - neutral, for geraniums, pelargoniums, asparagus, dracaenas, clivia, ivy, cyclamens, fatsias.

Slightly acidic, for prickly pears, lobivias, mamilaria, cereus, gymnocalyciums, notocacti, astrophytums.

Cypress - slightly acidic, for cypress, thuja, fir, araucaria, cryptomeria, juniper, bonsai.

Neutral, for lemons, tangerines, oranges, grapefruit, coffee, jasmine, figs, pomegranate.

Neutral, for roses, chrysanthemums, gerberas, cineraria, callas, carnations, cyclamen, gloxinia, calceolaria, tuberose.

Slightly acidic, for violets, alocasia, anthurium, campanula, aucubus, aspidistra, cyperus, dieffenbachia, dracaena, ferns (adiantum, asplenium, nephrolepis, pteris), calathea, spathiphyllum, arrowroot, peperomia, aphelandra, syngoniums, felicia, guzmania.

Tradescantia - slightly acidic, for Tradescantia, zebrin, callisia, ruelia.

Ficus - slightly acidic, for ficuses, hibiscus, clerodendrons.

Nocturne - slightly acidic, for fuchsia, ivy, chlorophytum, balsam, coleus, ginura, cissus, asparagus.

Neutral, for palm trees, ficus, shefler, fatsia, dracaena, yucca, boxwood, laurel, strawberry tree, fig trees, oleander, olives, eucalyptus, croton, for large ornamental indoor plants.

Rhapsody - neutral, for palm trees, ficus, sheffler, fatsia, dracaena, yucca, crotons, for large ornamental indoor plants.

Symphony, Sonata, Suite, Overture - for floral and ornamental crops.

Neutral, for all types of flowers (it is advisable to add raising agents).

For indoor flowers, you need special soil so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about home growing plants.

Before you go shopping at the garden center, it’s worth brushing up on your knowledge about house flowers:

But let’s return to “our sheep” - what soil is best for indoor plants.
First, I’ll tell you what kind of soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.

To plant indoor plants you need a special composition. You can prepare them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.

It is worth talking in more detail about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates) usually used for growing home flowers.

Why ready-made soil mixtures are not suitable for indoor plants

Ready-made substrates that are sold under the proud name “Soil mixture” actually have nothing in common with soil. They consist mainly of red (high) or black (low) peat with the addition of mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on what plants they are intended for.

This is what the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, calling this revelation “Composition of the mixture.”

Have you ever read it?

Most failures in growing home flowers are associated with the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.

There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. There is no need to look for different types of soil, no need to prepare them for future use and store them in the house, taking up the space necessary for life. Peat-based compositions are light and absorb water well. On sale you can find such a mixture for all types of plants. And this would be a solution to the problem for most amateurs, if not for one thing...

But the peat composition is unstable, it dries out quickly. All assorted peats must be kept constantly moist - when they dry out, they have difficulty absorbing moisture. But most of your green pets require the soil to dry out between waterings. And some of them cannot tolerate excess moisture at all.

That is why it is easy to flood a flower in such a soil substrate.

In peat compositions, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen ones, but when watering it is easily washed out. Therefore, within a few weeks after transplantation you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!

By using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.

The exception is compositions with the addition of vermicompost. Humus (chernozem) is soil rich in organic matter. Such compositions are less common and are usually more expensive compared to peat-based substrates.

We conclude:

The soil for indoor flowers must be prepared with your own hands.

Don't be alarmed, it's not difficult at all.

A little information about various types Soil will help you figure this out.

Characteristics of garden lands

It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take good turf (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be turf soil.

Deciduous (leafy)

It is light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual rotting of leaves and branches in a grove, forest or planting. The easiest way to find leaf soil is in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, possibly with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.

Humus
It is obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village it is quite easy to find humus soil. In the city you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for cuttings.

It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.

The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.

Preparing soil for indoor flowers at home

Recipe one:

This mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick, coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.

Recipe two:

This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.

Recipe three:

This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with thin, delicate roots and all herbaceous species.

Recipe four - universal soil for indoor plants:

It will come in handy if you were unable to find turf and humus soil.

In the literature for gardeners there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.

But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain sufficient quantity nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by searching for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all of your green pets.

So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants

To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the soil for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands according to one of the above recipes.

Evgeniy Sedov

When your hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

Every gardener strives to get on his plot good harvest. In order for plants to bear fruit successfully, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for them from the first days of life. For this, special soil is used for sowing seeds, which provides fragile sprouts with nutrition, growth and future harvest. The success of this difficult task depends on how correctly the soil is chosen.

What is soil for seedlings

Soil or soil for seedlings is a source of chemical elements and organic substances for plants. They are necessary for seedlings for nutrition, active growth, reproduction and the formation of tasty and ripe fruits in the future. The soil also provides the root system with the necessary temperature regime, maintains humidity and air exchange. Not all the soil on the site has the necessary properties, so experienced gardeners recommend using a special soil mixture for germinating grains. You can buy it in a store or prepare it yourself.

Requirements

There are special stringent requirements for soil for seedlings. If you change even one component, the seedlings will grow reluctantly, may disappear in the process or may not sprout at all. The issue of soil selection must be approached with the utmost care, fulfilling the following conditions:

Looseness. This concept refers to the physical structure of the earth. If it is taken in one lump, then it is better not to take it, just like stale soil. The soil should be airy, porous, moisture-permeable, breathable, and flow between your fingers.
Composition of soil for seedlings. If you find fungus, mold, insect larvae or small weed roots in the ground, then such a basis for plant growth is not suitable.
Fertility. The soil must contain the necessary microelements needed for seedling growth.
Acidity. Pay attention to this indicator when choosing soil. The acidity should be neutral, i.e. pH should be 6.0-6.7 depending on preference garden culture. Plants will not germinate in very acidic or alkaline environments.
Toxicity. Good soil for seedlings is one that does not contain waste. industrial production, toxic petroleum products, salts, radionuclides. It must be environmentally friendly.

Types of purchased soil mixture

It is easier and more reliable to purchase ready-made soil for planting seedlings in the store. Before making such a purchase, carefully study the composition of the proposed land. Below are popular soil brands and their descriptions:

Name	Description		Price
Living soil for seedlings	Universal or special peat-based soil	Peat, vermicompost, agloporite, mineral fertilizers. Nitrogen – 150 mg/l, potassium – 300 mg/l, phosphorus – 270 mg/l. pH – about 6.5.	55 rubles for 5 liters.
Gumimax	Multi-component special primer with carefully selected balance	Sand, peat, Gumimax fertilizer. Ammonium nitrogen – 700 mg/kg, nitrate nitrogen – 100 mg/kg, potassium oxide and phosphorus oxide – 800 mg/kg each. pH – 6.0-7.5.	350 rubles for 40 liters.
garden soil	Universal peat-based soil	Peat, river sand, mineral fertilizers. Nitrogen 300 mg/l, potassium 400 mg/l, phosphorus – 300 mg/l. pH – 5.5-6.0.	260 rubles for 50 liters.

Pay attention to the type of soil you are purchasing. It can be universal or special. Manufacturers add one or another component in larger quantities to a special soil, which is well suited for a certain type of crop, for example, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, cabbage, onions, flowers, etc. Universal soil is suitable for all plants, but you may have to supplement this soil yourself to give them required composition for one or another type of plant.

DIY soil for seedlings

When filling prepared soil into boxes, do not forget to provide good drainage. To do this, place a layer of dry moss (sphagnum) or sand on the bottom.
Place the soil on top of the drainage. Don’t be sorry, it should be covered in an even layer and up to the edge of the box, peat cups or other containers that are used for planting seedlings.
Don't forget about extra food. To do this, take suitable fertilizers and distribute them over the surface of the soil in an even layer, then mix thoroughly.
If you use dry fertilizers, the soil should be moistened before enrichment, but do not overdo it. Perfect option– lack of liquid when squeezing the soil.
Select the desired temperature regime, which is difficult in apartment conditions. Set up a microgreenhouse on your balcony. Otherwise, limit watering, otherwise the seedlings’ root system will be weak, and the green top with leaves, on the contrary, will be too high.

Compound

To prepare a simple universal soil for seedlings you will need:

turf soil - 2 parts;
peat – 2 parts;
sand - 1 part.

These ingredients can be purchased at a specialty gardening store. Peat can be replaced with humus or leaf soil. To further mineralize the resulting composition, i.e. To increase its fertility, add 200-300 grams of charcoal or ash for every 10 liters. It is recommended to mix perlite, vermiculite or sawdust into the composition. These components make the earth light and airy. Another useful additive is eggshells ground into powder, compost heaps.

Disinfection

Often, the quality and volume of the harvest depends on how well the soil is disinfected. Disinfection is the removal of larvae and pupae of harmful insects, bacteria, fungi and other unnecessary microorganisms. The disinfection procedure can be carried out independently using any of the following methods:

freezing followed by thawing;
steaming in a water bath;
washing in boiling water in small portions;
roasting in the oven;
keeping in the microwave;
washing with a solution of potassium permanganate (3 grams of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water);
etching with Aktara solution, fungicide;
addition of Fitosporin.

How to choose a soil mixture for seedlings

A large selection of soil types for seedlings often confuses novice gardeners. The following tips will be useful to you when purchasing the right soil:

If you are in doubt which type of soil is better - universal or special - take the first option. It is suitable for any seedlings; if necessary, it can always be supplemented.
Pay attention to the label. It should contain information about the manufacturer, composition, properties. A prerequisite is the presence of instructions for use. If there is no label or the information on it is incomplete, it is better to purchase another primer.
The composition of the soil is very important. It must include at least three ingredients. It is good if the composition contains peat, vermiculite or sand with the addition of mineral fertilizers. There should not be too many chemical components. The amount of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus should not exceed 300 mg/l, otherwise it is better to dilute the soil.
The consistency of the soil is very important, so evaluate this factor when purchasing. If necessary, take a test bag of soil.
To assess acidity, you need to carry out the following procedure. Place a piece of glass on a dark horizontal surface. Sprinkle some soil on top and pour vinegar over it. If a large amount of foam forms on the surface, it means that the soil has an alkaline environment; the complete absence of foam indicates increased acidity, slight foaming – about neutrality.