Installation of one of the most popular types of flooring, laminate, has become available to many consumers thanks to the improvement of the locking system. If the first laminate had to be coated with glue before installation, the coating with Lock-locks required skillful handling of a mallet to join the panels, then Click, 5g, Megalock locks made the work process quite simple.
However, even with modern interlocking connections, installing laminate flooring requires care, attention, patience and accurate calculation, without which you will allow a large waste of material. Typically, the laminate is laid perpendicular to the light source (window) so that the light rays go along the long side of the panels. This installation method makes the seams between the panels unnoticeable.
Laminate flooring is laid across the room (parallel to the light source - the window) in small rooms to visually expand the room. The coating is also laid across narrow corridors and small hallways.
In addition to direct laying methods, herringbone and diagonal laying of laminate are also used. Today we will talk about the diagonal method.
What does diagonal laying do?
Laying in this way is more difficult than a regular straight line, requiring more time, effort, accurate calculations and more material consumption. The panels at the points where they adjoin the walls of the room will need to be cut at an angle at the end parts. However, correctly executed diagonal laying has undeniable advantages:
- The room visually expands. This is especially true for small apartments.
- The asymmetry of the walls is hidden. Direct installation will emphasize the lack of precise geometry in the room, even protruding it, while diagonal installation will make it almost invisible.
- This method maximizes beauty flooring.
- The diagonal method is used in rooms where the window is offset towards one of the walls. In this case, diagonal installation will be preferable to installation perpendicular to the light source.
Material consumption when laying diagonally
Laminate for laying diagonally will have to be purchased with a reserve. Advice on the size of the stock varies, up to 20%. Such “advice” seems to be outright reinsurance, and, except for laminate manufacturers, no one will say “thank you” for it. It can be assumed that a beginner will not be able to complete the installation with minimum quantity waste, which the craftsmen proudly demonstrate in videos posted on the Internet. They get from 5 to 7%, and some get even less. But a beginner will be able to keep within a 10 percent supply of material.
It's easy to calculate the required amount. Multiply the area of the room by 1.1. The packaging indicates the total area of the panels contained in it. We divide the resulting area of the room with a 10% margin by the area of the panels in one package and round up to a whole number. Here is the number of packages that need to be purchased.
Important! Buy all the required quantities at once. Firstly, panels of the same model from different batches may differ in shade, which will be immediately noticeable on the floor. Secondly, stores are constantly updating their collections, and when you come to buy more, such coverage may simply not be there.
Preparation for installation
Preparing the base surface for diagonal laying of laminate is no different from similar work for other methods. The base must be level, strong and stable, and dry. Height differences are allowed within 2 mm when measuring with a 2-meter staff (it is convenient to use a level as a staff). Installation can be done on sand-cement screed, wooden floor, plywood, OSB boards, linoleum.
Before installing the laminate, the wooden floor is checked; if necessary, the boards are replaced and creaks and unevenness are removed.
The screed is checked with a level, if necessary, the sagging is sanded, deep cracks are expanded and filled cement-sand mortar. If the differences in height reach 10-20 mm, the screed is leveled with a self-leveling mixture (self-leveling floor). To remove air bubbles, roll the floor with a needle roller.
Before installation, the screed is treated with a deep penetration primer. Before installing the laminate, a plastic film must be laid as waterproofing.
Linoleum must be firmly attached to the floor and not have serious defects. Sheets of plywood under the laminate should be placed staggered so that 4 seams do not meet at one point. Plywood is laid with a distance between sheets of about 10 mm.
A roll or sheet backing is placed under the laminate: cork, rubber-cork, bitumen-cork, foil, ventilated Tuplex backing, polyurethane foam or the already mentioned polyethylene. The choice of substrate depends on your capabilities and the tasks that the substrate must solve.
Important! The strips of the backing are rolled out end to end and secured with tape so that it does not bunch up when laying.
Packages with material are brought into the room where installation will take place and allowed to adapt to temperature and humidity for about 2 days. There is no need to open the packages.
Two diagonal laying patterns
There are two ways to lay laminate diagonally: from the central axis of the room sequentially in both directions to the corners or from the far corner of the room through the center of the room to the opposite corner.
To work you will need:
Choosing a laying angle
For diagonal laying, it is customary to start from an angle of 45° - such an angle will allow you to use almost all sawn-off pieces of laminate during installation. There will be much less waste. However, there are times when the configuration of the room will dictate a different angle. Please note that an angle less than 30° will look bad. Acceptable angle sizes range from 30 to 45°.
Advice. Laying the laminate diagonally must be done with an assistant; it will be very difficult to do it alone.
From the center
With any installation method, work begins with installing plastic wedges around the perimeter of the room, which will remind you of the required distance between the flooring and the walls.
First, the first row of entire panels is assembled along the central diagonal axis of the room. The length of the last two pieces of laminate that will adjoin opposite walls in this row is measured from the end of the last intact panel to the plastic wedge. Save the remaining sections - they will fit on the other side of the row, and you will not need to saw the whole panel.
When the central row is laid, installation continues from it, first towards one corner, then the other. With an assistant, you can work in two directions simultaneously.
To install laminate in outer corners, you will need to mark three or more points on the panel. It’s more convenient to make a template and use it to saw off the panel to size. A piece of laminate cardboard packaging is perfect for a template. Or you can lay the coating tangentially to this outer corner.
Important! Laminate panels with a Click connection are inserted into the laid panels at a 45° angle, lowered and clicked into place. Before starting work, carefully check the possibility of laying the purchased model according to the “from the center” pattern. If the model you choose can only be laid in one direction, work will have to start from the corner.
After installation is completed, the plastic wedges are removed and the plinth is attached to the wall. Remember that laminate flooring is a “floating floor” and cannot be rigidly fixed. One more tip. Lay out the pieces remaining after cutting and try to use them in your work. Then even a 10% reserve will seem excessive to you.
From the corner
It is recommended to start laying from the corner with one whole panel. Both end sides are cut to the selected angle. The first whole panel (we consider it whole, it only has the ends trimmed) will set the direction for the entire floor.
To lay the laminate around the pipes, the panel is cut at an angle where the pipes pass, and cutouts are made in it using a drill to fit the pipes. It's even easier to make cutouts at the junction of two panels.
Laying the next row begins alternately with a whole panel or with half a panel if the floor covering is laid in a checkerboard pattern. When laying with an offset of a third of the board, the row begins with a whole board, the next one with a board 2/3 of the length, then a row with a panel 1/3 of the length. Then again the row starts with the whole panel. Both methods will not only make the coating neat and beautiful, but also increase its strength.
Important! Entire panels of one row are fastened at the ends. The length of the last two pieces of laminate that will adjoin opposite walls in this row is measured from the end of the last intact panel to the plastic wedge. Save the remaining sections - they will fit on the other side of the row, and you will not need to saw the whole panel.
You should be very careful to follow the direction of the tenon and groove in the row and in the panel you are going to cut. As the famous character of everyone’s favorite comedy movie said: “There’s no need to rush!” True, there they were talking about the return of a full-fledged member to society, and here - about the “fate” of one panel.
When the outer pieces for the next row are cut off, the entire already assembled row is removed from the connection with the adjacent one, completely assembled and only then finally fixed in the lock. It is for laying a long row that you will need the help of an assistant.
For cutting panels intended for laying in internal corners rooms, you will need to mark three points of the triangle. It’s more convenient to make a template and saw off the panel using it. A piece of laminate cardboard packaging is perfect for a template.
Conclusion
Laying laminate flooring diagonally requires patience, care, accuracy and precise execution of the work plan outlined in the drawing. This installation method will require more time, but, as they say, “the game is worth the candle.” The result of the work will please you for a very long time.
If your room is narrow or has a non-standard layout, installing flooring diagonally can solve this problem. Right choice The colors of the laminate and its correct installation in relation to the incident light from the window can transform any, even the most ordinary-looking room.
Laminate is a material with many advantages. Among the advantages are beauty, versatility, resistance to temperature changes, and moisture resistance. You can walk on laminate flooring without any problems in heels, move furniture on wheels and ride on children's cars.
Laminate retains its functional qualities for a very long time, the main thing is compliance with certain rules.
The process of laying laminate flooring largely depends on the type of floor on which the work will take place. No matter what base the laminate is laid on, the surface must be smooth and free of dust.
Laminate flooring can be laid on a cement screed. To do this, it is important that the screed is level and dry. Therefore, if you decide to lay laminate flooring on cement, you need to wait at least 7 days before starting work. IN winter time, if there is no indoor central heating, it should take 3 weeks until the cement floor is ready for further use.
When laying laminate flooring on a cement screed, it is recommended to cover the floor with plastic film to prevent moisture release. You can also use a polystyrene backing between the floor and the laminate flooring if you need to insulate the floor.
If the laminate is installed on wooden floor, it will not be possible to level it with cement. In this case you can use OSB boards to get a virtually flawless floor. For insulation, also use a substrate or isolon.
Before starting the installation process, let the laminate sit indoors for a while. He must get used to the temperature of the room.
Diagonal laying of laminate: features of operation
Like any job, laminate flooring requires certain skills. The diagonal method is slightly different from the standard installation. The flooring of the boards is not mounted directly along the wall, but starting from the far corner of the room.
Craftsmen who have more than once encountered laying laminate flooring on a bias can do this work without any aids. They can cut laminate by eye, join boards without problems and easily determine the angle of inclination.
But if you decide to cover the floor with boards yourself for the first time, it is better to install beacons on which it will be easier to lay the laminate.
By appearance the finished floor with diagonal laying of the laminate will look like brickwork.
Key points when laying laminate flooring diagonally:
- The room is visually enlarged. If the floor is made light, the room will become spacious and bright. A colorful floor consisting of laminate of different shades will attract attention.
- When laying diagonally, the emphasis is on the corner of the room, so in this way you can shift the focus from the walls or other parts of the room to the corner.
- When laying laminate diagonally, the seams between the boards are not so noticeable.
- If you use diagonal installation throughout the apartment, you can avoid installing thresholds between rooms.
- Laminate flooring does not need to be nailed or screwed. The material may become deformed or crack.
This method of laying laminate flooring has significant disadvantages. The material consumption is greater than with conventional installation. To save money, you can start laying from the middle of the room and move towards the corners. Also, calculating the material is more difficult than with direct installation
Consumption of laminate when laying diagonally
Laying laminate flooring diagonally requires accurate calculation of the material. Specialists or consultants in construction stores will help you calculate how many boards will be needed for the floor in the room. There are cases when the calculation is made very roughly and then there may not be enough material or there may be more boards than necessary.
You can calculate the laminate consumption yourself by calculating according to the described scheme the approximate piece consumption of boards to cover the entire floor. Add 3-4 boards to the resulting quantity in case something gets damaged.
If it is not possible to make detailed diagram premises, but there is a general quadrature, you can calculate the flow rate as follows. When laying diagonally, add 10-12% to the total area of the room and divide the resulting number by the area of one board. Divide the number of boards by the number of laminate in the package.
How to lay laminate flooring diagonally: laying technology
Before you start laying laminate boards, you need to lay down the underlay. Roll out the material over the entire surface of the floor, glue the joints with tape or masking tape. To prevent the backing from moving when laying the boards, you can make a small overlap on the walls; the excess can be easily cut off with an ordinary stationery knife.
Perhaps in order to lay the laminate correctly, you will need a diagram that will show sequentially how to lay the boards more conveniently and economically.
The diagonal layout of the laminate begins from the distant corner of the room, which is located near the window. You can lay laminate from right to left or vice versa - there is no fundamental difference. When installing boards, you need to take into account the angle of inclination; it varies from 30 to 45 degrees.
Progress:
- The first row is assembled from a whole board, the ends of which are cut at an angle for the correct joint with the wall.
- You can prepare a template according to which the board adjacent to the wall will be cut. Using the template, cut the next board and connect it to the main row along its entire length.
- Assemble the next row and connect it to the previous one. Using this technology, lay out the entire floor.
- Install the baseboard. It will hide all errors.
The laminate is connected to each other using special locks. To join the boards together, you need to insert the board into the lock at an angle of 30 degrees and smoothly lower it to the floor. If you hear a “click” sound, it means you did everything right.
When laying the laminate diagonally, you need to maintain a distance of 20-30 mm from the wall. This is done to ensure that the coating does not deform when loaded on it. These indentations will later be hidden by the plinth.
Laying laminate diagonally (video)
A high-quality result can only be obtained by following all installation rules. Despite the fact that diagonal installation is a more complex and painstaking process than standard installation, the finished result will exceed all expectations. Thanks to this method of installing laminate flooring, you can transform the room, make it original and beautiful.
Having chosen laminate as a floor covering for their living space, most home craftsmen decide to do all the installation work themselves. Well, great! However, there is one big “but” in this: an unprofessional approach does not take into account the individuality of each specific room. We invite you to understand the nuances.
The laminate packaging instructions indicate the simplest installation method, which consists of parallel placement of the boards relative to the walls. And it is precisely this method (it’s written in the instructions!) that the overwhelming majority of “homemade” ones follow. Of course, if the room in which the laminate is installed has a strictly geometric shape (deviations of several degrees are not taken into account), then this method is preferable.
But what if the walls are uneven, shaped in a semicircle, or are there simply design flaws? In this case, another method of installing the laminate may be more successful - laying it diagonally.
With the usual installation method, laminate boards are placed parallel to the surface of the walls, and with a diagonal installation method, they are placed at an angle of 30-45°. It is considered optimal to maintain a slope of 45°, but since adjacent walls are rarely strictly perpendicular, the angle within one room can vary within the above-mentioned limits.
Advantages of installation in this way
Mastering the technique of diagonally laying laminate flooring will be useful to you not only when you need to hide layout imperfections or smooth out uneven walls. Diagonal cutting of flooring is often used by interior designers when they want to expand the space of a narrow and dark room.
This approach will be especially worthwhile if the room is not cluttered with unnecessary furniture. Then the diagonal lines visually stretch the floor and, accordingly, it seems that the room has become freer.
Well, the last argument in favor of this installation method is that the diagonal floor pattern looks more interesting than the usual parallel installation. It opens up a real field for creativity and allows you to modify the room, stretching it, making it lighter, highlighting individual functional areas.
If you have a glazed and well-insulated loggia and you choose flooring for it, you can use laminate. In the next article we will tell you how to do this correctly: .
Calculation of the required amount of laminate
The diagonal installation method is more complex than traditional parallel installation and requires more consumables. Therefore, when calculating the amount of laminate, it is necessary to plan 15-20% of the material for future waste.
For professional builders who have extensive experience in laying laminate flooring, this percentage is not so large and is closer to the minimum 5%. But, since you are just learning, we recommend that you add 15-20% to the area of the room and use this figure as the total amount of laminate.
An example calculation can be done here:
Technology and stages of diagonal laying
It is necessary to leave small gaps 1.5-2 cm thick between the walls and the laminated covering. These seams compensate for the swelling and shrinkage of the floor covering during temperature or humidity fluctuations.
To maintain the same distance along the entire perimeter of the room, you can use special pegs, which are removed from the resulting seams after installation. The gaps are then closed using skirting boards fixed to the walls.
A problem for enthusiastic home builders can be caused by the process of cutting the outermost slats in a row. You need to cut the edge of the board at an angle, so as to completely repeat the outline of the wall. To do this, measure the distance from the top point of the row to the spacer peg and, accordingly, from the bottom point to the peg.
The resulting distances are transferred to the entire laminate board in the form of two points - top and bottom. These points are connected by a line along which the panel is subsequently cut. Cut the laminate from the back using a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw.
Thus, there is nothing supernatural about laying laminate flooring diagonally. Requires a little more precision preliminary calculations, planning and quantities of consumables. But as a result, you will get not just a beautiful and durable floor, but also the opportunity to visually expand such valuable square meters. And that's worth a lot, isn't it?
Laying laminate flooring in itself is an extremely responsible task, requiring careful preparation, accuracy, patience, and accurate calculations.
All this will be needed to an even greater extent if it is decided to lay laminated panels diagonally.
But the efforts spent will be rewarded handsomely - a coating laid in this way literally transforms any room.
Traditionally, laminate is laid so that the long seams between the panels are oriented parallel to the beams from the main source daylighting- window.
And what possibilities does diagonal laying open up:
- First of all, the window (one or more) may not be located quite standardly, with an offset to one corner or another. It may turn out that it is the diagonal laying that will fully comply with the principle of parallelism to the rays of light.
- Panels located at an angle to the walls of the room do a great job of hiding its geometric imperfections. So, if the walls are not parallel to one another, the traditional laying method will only emphasize this defect, and the diagonal one will make it almost invisible.
- The diagonal arrangement of laminated panels gives an interesting visual effect– visual expansion of space, which can be very important in cramped rooms of small apartments.
- This type of installation simply looks very beautiful and gives the interior of the room an exquisite originality.
Is it true that more laminate will be needed?
Yes, if you decide to resort to diagonal laying, the consumption will be higher, the laminate should be purchased with a certain reserve. This is explained simply - in the areas where the ends of the panels adjoin the walls, they will have to be cut at a certain angle, “adjusted to the location.” No matter how hard you try, “waste-free production” will not be achieved.
For experienced craftsmen, according to them, a 5% supply of laminate is enough - they have already developed a professional instinct for the most optimal arrangement of panels.
For those who will carry out such installation for the first time, the reserve should be larger.
There are recommendations to purchase a reserve of 15 or even 20%, which probably still exceeds the limits of reason.
Among finishers, it is customary to rely on a 7 percent reserve norm, but for a beginner, to guarantee, you can take a reserve of 0.1 of the total area of the room.
If this value is divided by the area of the panels in one factory package, you can get the exact value of the packages required to completely cover the room diagonally with laminate.
You should purchase all the required quantities at once - there is no guarantee that the laminate of a given batch will be in the store after some time.
And panels, even of the same model, but from a different batch, may differ noticeably in color, which will be immediately noticeable on the floor.
Preparation for installation
In order for the laying of the laminate to be successful and the coating to be of high quality, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures.
Preparing the floor surface indoors
Laminate flooring can be laid either on concrete screed, having carried out the complex necessary work for waterproofing and installing a special underlay, as well as for old floor coverings - linoleum, boards, etc. The general requirement is that the floor must be perfectly flat and stable at any point.
If subsidence or creaks are observed in any place, appropriate repairs are required.
Linoleum should not have delaminations, bubbles, through wear, obvious signs destruction concrete base under him.
- If so, then priming with deep penetration waterproofing compounds must be carried out. In addition, the floor is covered with plastic film on top. All work on this basis begins to be carried out only after the coating has completely hardened, in accordance with technological standards.
- A backing is placed under the laminate - polyurethane foam or natural cork. Its sheets are installed end-to-end and secured with tape.
- It’s even better if it is possible to completely cover the room with OSB boards - they will provide a perfectly flat surface and an additional noise and thermal insulation effect.
Preparation of material and tools, work planning
The purchased laminate, after delivering it to the work site, must be unpacked and allowed to rest in this form for at least 2-3 days.
The panels adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room, in this way we eliminate the possibility of their warping after installation.
IN mandatory you need to draw a plan for the upcoming work, respecting the scale and taking into account the length and width of the purchased laminated panels. This drawing will give a clear idea of the laying sequence and will help to avoid mistakes when cutting the material.
Which laying angle is preferable?
It is best, of course, to lean at 45 degrees - the panel trims will be the most versatile, and the amount of waste will be significantly reduced.
An angle of 30 - 40 degrees is allowed, but if it is less than 30, the coating will look ugly.
Prepare in advance for work:
- jigsaw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
- hammer, preferably wooden or rubber;
- curved mount for installing finishing wall panels;
- tape measure, square, ruler, pencil.
It is advisable to immediately make a sufficient supply of spacer wooden wedges 10 mm thick to ensure a compensation gap along the walls.
Before starting work, you should definitely enlist the help of a friend - when laying diagonally, it is especially necessary.
The process of diagonally laying laminate flooring
Two schemes for laying laminate diagonally are used - from one, far corner of the room, or from the center, sequentially in one direction and the other.
From the corner
When laying from a corner, start with one solid panel, cut on both sides to the required angle.
It is she who will set the direction for the rest of the coating.
Do not forget that it should be wedged away from the walls by 10 to compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
If there is a heating pipe running in the immediate vicinity of the corner of the room where work begins, it makes sense to start laying it from here, immediately cutting a hole for it at the junction of two panels - this will greatly simplify this operation.
From the starting panel that makes up the first row, it is more advisable to go to the center of the room. The corner that remains uncovered can be laid later, using short scraps of material that will certainly appear during the work.
It is obvious that each subsequent row with this installation increases in length. Be sure to shift the transverse seams by ½ the length of the panel - it will be more beautiful, and the strength of the coating will be much higher.
The panels of each row must be fastened at the ends in advance, with the exception of sections adjacent to the walls.
- The row is laid out in its place, but is not tightly locked in the lock with the previous one.
- Then a measurement is made at two points, from both sides of the end of the last flat panel to the wall.
- This distance, reduced by 10 mm, is transferred to the panel to be cut, a line is drawn and a cut is made along it with a jigsaw or hacksaw.
- The same is done on the other side of the row.
An important note is in order here:
If the opposite walls are parallel, then the corner left after trimming should fit perfectly on the other side of the row. This must be taken into account in order to avoid waste of material - it is necessary to use trimmings from one side to use them for the other.
And one more important note - the fatal mistake of many novice repairmen is inattention to the location of the tenon and groove of the laminated board lock - after cutting it often turns out that the corner is cut in the other direction.
The proverb about “measure seven times” is more relevant here than ever.
After all the parts for a complete row are ready, it is removed from the lock, assembled completely at the ends, and only then is it finally engaged with the locking part of the previous row.
This is where the help of a friend will be invaluable - when the length of the row becomes significant, it is very difficult to cope with such a procedure on your own.
After installing a solid strip, it is wedged from the wall using wedges.
Laying continues in this manner throughout the room. Exceptions may be the internal corners of the room - there you will have to take measurements at three points - along the edges of the board and at the very point of intersection of the walls.
From the center
The process of laying laminate diagonally is shown in more detail and clearly in the video. Laying is done from the corner in a checkerboard pattern; it is described in detail how to start the corner and how to finish with the transition to another room.
Some craftsmen prefer to lay diagonally from the center of the room.
In this case, a long prefabricated row is laid first, which will set the general direction for everyone else.
Its installation is carried out in the same way as described above. After this, the coating is installed first completely to one corner, then to the other.
This technique is especially relevant in cases where the room has external corners - for example, a large ledge, a column, or when the covering seamlessly passes from one room to another.
In such a situation, it is advisable to lay the first row tangentially to the outer corner - this will significantly reduce the hassle with cutting. If this is not possible, you will have to take careful measurements at three or even more points.
When laying adhesive laminate, after the first three rows you must pause for 3-4 hours so that the glue sets well.
But using the “from the center” scheme when laying laminate with “Click” type locks may not be applicable.
This locking system involves inserting the ridge part into the groove at a certain angle and then clicking it into place, that is, installation must be carried out in only one general direction.
“Running away” to the sides from the center on some models of this type of laminate may simply be impossible. This should definitely be taken into account when planning work.
Upon completion of installation, all that remains is to remove the spacer bars and screw (to the wall, not to the floor!) the baseboards.
In general, diagonal laying is absolutely not to be rushed. Only careful measurements, attention and accuracy will ultimately result in a beautiful original coating.
And in order to minimize waste, during the installation process it is advisable to constantly sort the remaining scraps and use them in work as much as possible. Laminate has long established itself as a. It is considered stylish and attractive. The specificity of this material allows it to be laid out in geometric patterns of varying complexity, and the effect of such installation will be indescribable. For example, laying laminate flooring diagonally is an unusually beautiful option that can significantly transform a room.
Pros of using diagonal laying:
- With this installation, the panels are located at an angle to the walls of the room, successfully hiding all the shortcomings. If the walls are not parallel, the usual arrangement of panels will only emphasize this drawback, and diagonal laying will hide it.
- Diagonal laying creates a unique visual effect of visual expansion of space. This will be especially relevant in small spaces.
- The main advantage is the beauty and sophistication of the finish.
Price issue
If you decide to use this installation option, then be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend more material, and therefore more money. This is explained by the fact that where the ends of the laminate meet the walls, they will have to be cut at an angle to “fit” them in place. It turns out that more material will go to waste than with the classic method of laying out panels.
Experienced craftsmen make do with a 5% supply of material when laying, because they have developed an instinct for the optimal location. For those who decide to do this for the first time, it is better to take 10-15% of the material in reserve.
Note! It’s better to buy all the material you need for installation at once. Because there is no guarantee that after some time you will find exactly the same color.
Necessary tool
- roulette,
- jigsaw,
- metal ruler,
- small wooden block and a rubber hammer,
- pencil,
- spacer wedges.
Laying laminate
The most common layout for laying laminate flooring diagonally is from the corner of the room. The work is being carried out in stages.
- First, the surface is carefully prepared. If work is carried out on concrete floor, then it should be smooth and dry. When laying on a wooden floor, it is also checked for reliability. Align wooden surface You can use sheets of plywood.
- Then a substrate is laid on the surface. The joints must be glued with tape.
- To control the accuracy of the installation, you need to stretch the rope diagonally across the room.
- To select the required angle of inclination of the panel, you can first lay out several boards on the floor.
- After you collect several rows, they need to be fastened together. To do this, use a rubber hammer. Just do not overdo it when connecting, so as not to damage the locking connection.
- The gaps between the walls are fixed with wedges.
- If it is necessary to lay boards where pipes pass, holes are pre-cut in the panels, which can be filled with acrylic or silicone-based sealant.
- The final part of the work involves installation of skirting boards. It's better to choose quality material with the possibility of pulling the cable inside it.
Trimming corners
Trimming is carried out at an angle of 45°; for this, a square is used or you can prepare a template in advance. The first rows are made from one panel. Each row is a trapezoid. The adjacent side should be equal in length to the outer part of the previous row.
- First, using a square or template, mark the cut location and cut the required angle with a jigsaw or other tool.
- When you reach rows of several panels, you must first saw off the corner from the leftmost plank and connect them into one row. Such a connection will be temporary, so you should not be zealous in achieving density.
- Next, we measure the size of the remaining piece (don’t forget to take into account the thickness of the wedge that is inserted between the wall and the canvas), take the next panel and cut the required angle according to the resulting size.
- The entire row is disengaged from the previous one, the resulting corner is inserted, and all connections are finally secured.
- Thus, row by row all corners are displayed. Having reached the edge of the room, you need to change the direction of the segment of the left corner. Further work is carried out in a similar order, only in the opposite direction.
Having completed all the work correctly, you will receive an even and beautiful coating.
- When choosing a material, you should not settle for cheap options. Due to poor quality, various defects may appear during operation.
- After purchasing laminate, you need to let it “sit” in the room where you decided to put it. This is necessary so that it gets used to the room temperature after storage.
- Laying work can only be carried out in dry rooms. Increased humidity levels can affect the quality of the material.
- During installation, it is necessary to leave “thermal joints” between the wall and the panels. They will provide additional protection against compression or expansion. Gaps must be provided on all sides of the room. The gap is calculated as follows: for every meter of room width, you need to leave a 1.5 mm gap around the perimeter.
- If there will be heavy furniture in the room where the laminate is being laid, then the gap should be left within 10 mm from each wall of the room.
The photo shows examples of laying laminate diagonally; you can also watch a video where the work process is described in more detail.
