Installation chimney, as a rule, is not a difficult process, however, in some places, for example in transitions through floors, some difficulties may arise. An important point is to ensure proper waterproofing. We will talk about this and other nuances related to how to seal a chimney pipe in this article.

Even if the pipe is placed as tightly as possible on the roof, minor gaps will still remain. When it rains through them in attic space Moisture will constantly enter, which will eventually lead to damage to the roofing structures. This is why roof pipe sealing is so important.

How can you eliminate gaps?

The easiest way to solve the problem of how to seal the gap between the pipe and the roof is to install an apron on top. You can do it yourself, in which case you will need to provide strips for connection to the pipe in advance. There is an easier way - to buy a ready-made stainless steel roof passage. Often, round passages are made for the chimney, and they are made of stainless steel. The passage is placed on the pipe, and the joint is fixed with a steel clamp.

If you need to seal minor gaps formed between the pipe and the roof, then for these purposes you can use silicone sealant (read: “Which sealants for chimneys are best to use - types, characteristics”). You can find a huge variety of them on sale, but we need a heat-resistant type.

The process of how to seal a roof around a round pipe will differ slightly depending on the type of roofing, that is, in addition to the basic recommendations, there are also algorithms that will vary somewhat.

Seal gaps between chimney and slate roof

Sometimes the question arises of how to seal the gap between the pipe and the slate.

The technology provides the following sequence:

1. First, a round hole is cut in the steel sheet that will be needed to finish the ridge.
2. Next, a ring of sheet asbestos cement is placed on the pipe.
3. For absolute sealing, so that in the future there will be no problems with the leaking pipe on the roof, the joint between the pipe and the roof is sealed with an asbestos cement solution (proportion 1:2).
4. In addition, the same solution is used to fill the gap between the chimney pipe and the slate sheet. To do this, you can temporarily make a limiter out of cardboard.

Getting rid of cracks on a tiled roof

On a tile roof, it is best to seal the cracks with a solution of sand and cement, which the best way will protect the interior of the building from moisture and precipitation.

To achieve the best moisture insulation, you will need:

1. Install a galvanized collar on the roof, thus creating a place for pouring the solution.
2. Pour a solution of cement and sand, making sure that it clearly fills the entire space between the roof and the chimney.
3. In addition, you will need to make a surface and place it at an angle so that excess liquid flows down it.

Material for waterproofing bitumen roofs

Among the options for covering a pipe on the roof if it rises above a bitumen roof, the most optimal is the use of Wakaflex self-adhesive tape.

You can perform isolation in this way:

1. First, cutting is done from the Wakaflex tape.
2. At the next stage, this cutting needs to be pressed with a pipe case.
3. At the end, all remaining gaps between the parts being connected are sealed with bitumen mastic.

The process of eliminating cracks in a corrugated roof

As a rule, when installing a chimney through a corrugated roof, a ready-made Master Flash pipe cutting is used. Its advantage is that it is very convenient to use such a set; it can be used for roofing made of almost any material.

In essence, Master Flash is an apron cap made of silicone or rubber, placed on an aluminum base.

As for operating temperatures, for the silicone version of products it is significantly wider - in the range from -50 to 130 ℃.

The process of sealing cracks on a profile roof includes the following manipulations:

1. A gap is cut in the cap, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the cross-section of the chimney.
2. The Master Flush is put on the chimney.
3. A gasket is placed at the base of the chimney.
4. The joints between the material are sealed with silicone sealant.
5. The base of the chimney is fixed to the profile roof using screws.

Often the described manipulations do not provide sufficient tightness on the profile roof, so that during rainfall water leaks into the cracks. In such cases the best option is the use of self-adhesive tape reinforced with aluminum. It is very convenient to use such material, since it does not require pre-heating before use.

Thus, the fact how well a corrugated roof will be sealed at the exit point of the chimney depends largely on the choice of material and the quality of the work performed. However, we are confident that by following our instructions exactly and working responsibly, you will be able to protect your home from any surprises associated with roof leaks.

How to seal a pipe on the roof

When arranging a bathhouse or home, sooner or later the question of installing a boiler or stove will arise. In this case, it is necessary to install a chimney. Therefore, in mandatory The question will arise of how to seal the pipe on the roof so that rain and melt water does not seep through the gap in the roof.

To install the chimney and stove, you need to determine the location in advance.

In order to avoid having to redo all the work later, you must immediately follow the rules for the correct installation of the boiler or furnace.

First you need to decide on necessary tools and materials.

Pipe location

The most suitable place for the pipe outlet is the ridge.

It is necessary to determine the location of the furnace at the construction stage. In addition to having a well-fortified foundation underneath, it should be remembered that it is better not to place large quantity beams and rafters. After all, the presence of a chimney, which is a very heavy element, requires the location of good supports for it. It is also worth remembering that the longer the section of the straight chimney pipe, the higher the draft level. But this also reduces the efficiency of the boiler or furnace. It is important to find the best ratio between heat transfer and thrust.

Also, the quality and strength of traction depends on the wind, so it is best to install the pipe in the area where the ridge is located. The presence of a cap (an extension at the top of the chimney) also helps to improve draft. Good thermal insulation avoids condensation, and the pipe is best made from materials that heat up quickly.

Compliance with fire safety regulations

The main question arises when running a pipe through the roof. At the same time, you should not forget about the basic rules fire safety when passing a chimney pipe through the ceiling, ceiling and roof elements. There should be about 25 cm from the chimney pipe to structures protected from fire. And to unprotected ones - at least 35 cm. Perfect option– presence of an air gap around the pipe. But this leads to large heat losses and, as a result, is not used. That is why the lower part of the gap is covered with sheathing and filled with expanded clay. But how to properly route the chimney pipe through the roof elements? Fire safety requirements - the need for a distance between the pipe and wooden elements about 35 cm.

To close the pipe on the roof, roof penetrations, for example, of circular cross-section, are used.

It is not always possible to make the size of the chimney and the gap in the roof the same. When using flammable roofing material, if the pipe outlet ends up on roofing felt, you must remember that the size of the gap must comply with fire safety standards. To more accurately route the pipe to the roof, you can use the following: in a simple way. To do this, a cardboard tube is made, the same size as the real one, and moved to the roof. After which the appropriate marks are made on it, then part of the cardboard is cut off or moved further. This continues until the future hole is clearly marked. This method is perfect for round chimney pipes.

Sealing a gap in the roof

After bringing the pipe outside, you can proceed to sealing it on the roof. The main problem in this case is to protect the resulting gap in the roof from leaks. There are several methods for protecting the resulting cracks from leaks. At traditional way an apron is expected to be constructed. When constructing it, abutment strips will be useful. They will be located at the bottom of the pipe. According to the plan, these strips are applied to the chimney pipe and the contours of its upper part are marked directly on its walls.

To seal the chimney, an apron is installed at the junction of the pipe and the roof.

To form the required grooves, they are passed along the marked line with a grinder. In this case, the installation of the internal apron begins precisely from the bottom of the pipe, while inserting the edge of the strip directly into the groove. Subsequently, other elements of the apron are assembled using overlap. In this case, the size of the overlapping parts should be about 15 cm. In this case, the edges of the strip, which were inserted into the groove, are covered with a special sealant. In this case, the lower parts of the strip can be trimmed and attached with self-tapping screws. Then follows the sealing of the gap located between the roof and the pipe. This is the construction of the so-called tie. For this purpose it is taken waterproofing material, which is installed directly under the lower element of this apron. This is necessary for water drainage. At the same time, it is installed so that the liquid goes into the roof drainage elements.

Already on top of the installed elements, the roofing part is mounted and the outer tie is placed. When installing it, you should follow the installation diagram for the inner tie. The only difference is that the upper strips will be adjacent to the pipe without being inserted into the groove. However, the above is not the only solution to this problem.

If you have a round chimney pipe, you can use a special universal nozzle. It is designed to seal various elements and is used not only for pipes, but also for antennas, ventilation, and lamps. At the same time, it resembles a stepped pyramid. Made of silicone and rubber, the base is aluminum. It is worth paying attention to the fact that if the nozzle is made of rubber, then its performance characteristics range from – 50 to + 130 degrees. If you have a silicone model, it is worth remembering that its thermal characteristics are even wider and range from – 70 to + 250 degrees. Thanks to this, the seal can be used with any roofing material. It is not only easy to install, but also lasts a long time.

Sealing gaps on the roof

Pipe bypass diagram.

Now let's touch on sealing gaps. Indeed, with the traditional installation of a chimney pipe, it is almost impossible to do without them. So, what should you use to cover the pipe? It is quite possible to seal a small gap with silicone sealant. In this case, you should pay attention to the temperature range of its use. After all, when sealing chimney pipes, you can use sealants only with high level heat resistance. After sealing, the question arises of protecting the roof from moisture that will flow down the chimney pipe. If there is a brick chimney on the roof, this question disappears by itself, because the brick itself absorbs moisture and does not cause such problems.

If there is a pipe made of metal, you should install a special umbrella that will drain the water flowing down the pipe. The easiest way to start is to make a model of an umbrella from cardboard. After adjusting and calculating the required dimensions, it can be cut out of metal. The easiest way is to make it from two halves. The umbrella is installed using a clamp that will tighten both halves of the parts. The space between the parts is treated with sealant.

Another option would be to create a special box. It will separate the area where the chimney pipe connects to the roof. It can be created from beams and rafters. The box is located at a distance of about 15 cm from the pipe. This gap will need to be filled with material with increased thermal insulation, for example, special stone wool. It is good because it is absolutely not afraid of moisture; if it is present, you don’t have to deal with hydro- and vapor barrier. Roof insulation occurs traditionally. The film is cut with an envelope and carried to the edge of the beams and rafters. Fixed with nails and staples.

In this case, the waterproofing is pressed with bars, and the vapor barrier is pressed with a frame base. For good protection, a sealant is used at the junction of the box and the film - a special adhesive composition or tape. If there is a long pipe on the roof, there is insulation on it, or there is a low temperature at the chimney exit, there is no danger to the film. This is why additional fire protection may not be required.

The joints are taped with ordinary tape. A groove is created to drain water.

It is important to approach roof sealing responsibly. Otherwise, leakage may occur, which can cause rafters, beams and insulation to become damp. They will begin to rot, which may lead to failure general design roofs.

How to seal a pipe on the roof: sealing gaps

How to seal a pipe on the roof? There are several methods for protecting the resulting cracks from leaks.

We eliminate leaking pipes on the roof and roofs next to the pipe

If a pipe on the roof is leaking or the roof is leaking near a stove or vent pipe, then you can eliminate the malfunction that could lead to harmful consequences on your own. To choose a method for troubleshooting, you need to determine the location of the leak and, depending on the type of pipe and roof, prepare the necessary materials.

Broken seal near the chimney

Repairing pipe leaks on the roof

If water gets into the furnace when it rains, the cause of the leak is a leak. chimney. The chimney can be made:

• made of brick. Brick is the most durable material, but when constructing a chimney you should follow clear rules;
• made of metal. The most popular are chimneys made of sandwich pipes, which consist of two layers of metal separated by insulation;
• from asbestos. Asbestos is a non-flammable and relatively cheap material, which explains its widespread use.

Fixing brick chimney leaks

To eliminate a pipe leak on a brick roof, you will need:

Elimination of leaks occurs according to the following scheme:

1. a solution is mixed from sand, cement and water;
2. the leak site is cleared of dirt and remnants of destroyed bricks;

Cleaning the chimney from brick residues

1. Using a trowel, the prepared mixture is applied to the damaged area of ​​the chimney.

Fixing a leaking brick chimney

Repairing metal chimney leaks

To eliminate a leak in a metal pipe with your own hands, you can use:

• special clamps that are secured around the gap. The diameter of the clamp should be approximately equal to the diameter of the chimney, and the length of the clamp should be slightly larger than the size of the crack;

Devices for eliminating leaks of various sizes

• cold welding. A special mixture is applied to the leak site, according to the attached instructions.

Mixture for eliminating leaks on a metal pipe

Repairing asbestos chimney leaks

Instructions for eliminating an asbestos chimney leak involve the following actions:

1. You need to prepare cotton fabric and red lead paint. You can purchase materials at any hardware store;

Special paint for eliminating leaks

1. a thick layer of paint is applied to the damaged area, protected from dirt and dust;
2. the pipe is wrapped with fabric over the paint;
3. a second coat of paint is applied.

Using fabric and special paint

Repairing a leak near a pipe

If, during precipitation or melting snow, water flows down the drain pipe or chimney, then the cause of the leak is a violation of the seal at the junction of the pipe and the roof. When a roof leaks near a pipe, you can fix the problem in one of the following ways:

• applying bitumen tape;
• installation of a rubber cuff;
• production and installation of a metal apron.

Bitumen tape

If a drain pipe or chimney is leaking where the roof passes, then the simplest and cheapest way to eliminate the leak is to form an apron from bitumen tape.

Roof sealing material

To work you will need:

You can seal the connection as follows:

1. a metal brush is used to clean the roof around the pipe and the lower outer surface of the chimney (fan pipe);
2. Use a damp cloth to remove any remaining dirt and dust;
3. a piece of insulating tape is glued to the junction of the pipe and the roof with the bitumen layer down;

Applying waterproofing tape to the joint

1. using a burner, the tape is heated and pressed against the surface of the roof and pipe;
2. for greater reliability, the tape can be fixed wooden board or a block.

Rubber cuff

A more reliable method of eliminating a leak is to install a rubber cuff at the joint. For this:

1. you need to purchase a special cuff;
2. in the upper part, cut a hole equal to the diameter of the pipe being insulated;
3. put the prepared cuff on the pipe;
4. insulate the area where the cuff meets the roof with sealant;
5. Screw the lower part of the cuff to the roof.

Instructions for installing a rubber cuff on a pipe

Metal apron

If the roof is leaking in the area of ​​the pipe, then installing a metal apron will be a reliable way to eliminate the problem:

1. from metal sheet an apron is made, the dimensions of which fully correspond to the dimensions of the pipe facing the roof. The finished product can be purchased at a specialized store;

Metal apron for roof insulation

1. the upper part of the apron is attached to the pipe using a crimp clamp;
2. the lower part is fixed to the roof with self-tapping screws. To achieve the greatest tightness, the lower part of the plate is attached over the roofing material, and the upper part is tucked under the sheathing.

Scheme correct installation metal apron

A pipe is leaking on the roof: how to fix the leak yourself

In case of heavy rainfall or melting snow, the roof country house may leak near the chimney or drain pipe. The malfunction must be repaired immediately, as a leak can cause negative consequences.

A situation where a pipe on the roof is leaking, or there are leaks in the roof near it, requires immediate intervention. Otherwise, such damage to the roof can lead to harmful consequences. Fortunately, fixing such a defect with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing is to decide how to seal the gap between the pipe and the roof. To do this, you need to choose the right method to eliminate the cause of the leak, determining the location of the leak and preparing the required materials, which must be selected taking into account the type of pipe and roof.

Before answering the question of what and how to fix a leak on the roof near the pipe, you need to decide what material it is made of. It is very important. This is the starting point for repair work.

The chimney duct can be mounted from the following materials:

• bricks;
• metal;
• asbestos.

When eliminating a leak, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions, which can differ significantly for each chimney material. Therefore, the technology for eliminating such defects for each type of pipe should be considered in detail.

Fixing brick chimney leaks

If a pipe made of red brick is leaking on a roof, then to fix the problem you will need the following materials and tools:

• cement grade M 400 or M 500;
• sand, preferably river or sea, but quarry sand is also suitable;
• water;
• Master OK.

How to seal the gap between the pipe and the roof, having all of the above? You must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

• made from prepared materials cement mortar, by mixing 3-4 parts sand and one cement;
• the detected leak site is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and remnants of destroyed bricks;
• The prepared mixture is applied using a trowel to the damaged areas.

It is better to repair a roof pipe in sunny, dry weather. This way the cement mortar will harden much faster.

Repairing metal chimney leaks

If a metal chimney is leaking, then to correct the current situation you will need:

• special clamps with a rubber gasket that can be secured to the pipe where the gap occurs. The diameter of the clamp should be approximately equal to the thickness of the pipe. Its width should be slightly larger than the size of the crack;
• in addition, small cracks can be eliminated using cold welding, instructions for use of which can be found on the packaging.

Specified materials for repairing leaks metal pipe, can only be used as a temporary measure. As soon as possible, the damaged section of the chimney must be replaced with a new one.

Repairing asbestos chimney leaks

If water flows through an asbestos pipe, then you can eliminate the leak by performing a number of the following actions:

• First of all, you need to stock up on cotton fabric and “Iron Lead” paint. You can buy such materials at any hardware store;
• then the chimney, namely the damaged area, should be cleaned of dirt and dust;
• the paint is applied in a thick layer;
• fabric is tightly wrapped over it;
• Then the paint and varnish material is reapplied.

For the most part, such repairs are also a temporary measure that allows you to postpone the replacement of the chimney pipe for a certain period. You should not delay replacing a damaged asbestos chimney.

Repairing leaks near a pipe

If water flows through the chimney during snow melting or rain, the reason for this is a violation of the tightness in the place where the pipe and the roof are connected. If there is a roof leak near a pipe, there are a number of ways to fix the existing problem:

• apply bitumen tape;
• install rubber cuffs;
• make and install a metal apron.

All of the above methods allow you to close the leak, so they should be considered in more detail.

Using bitumen tape

If a chimney leaks due to rain or melting snow, then the simplest and cheapest way to eliminate the leak is to make an apron from bitumen tape. To perform such work you need to use the following materials and tools:

• bitumen tape;
• scissors;
• metal brush;
• gas burner.

The cracks are sealed by taking the following measures:

• first you need to use a metal brush, which is used to clean the roof around the chimney and its outer lower part;
• Remove any remaining dust and dirt with a damp cloth;
• At the junction of the pipe and the roofing material, pieces of bitumen tape are glued. It doesn't matter which side the gaps are on. You should create a full apron around the entire pipe;
• the glued tape heats up gas burner, which is pressed as tightly as possible against the roof and pipe;
• to seal the joint more reliably, the tape can be additionally secured with a wooden block or board (this cannot always be done, it all depends on the roofing material).

Bitumen tape is a universal material. It can be used if a pipe or roof made of any materials is leaking. The tape is capable of performing its functions efficiently for 2-3 years (depending on the amount of precipitation and other factors).

Using the rubber cuff

If the roof is leaking near the chimney duct, then this situation can be corrected by using a rubber cuff, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store. It is installed as follows:

• a cutout is made in the upper part of the cuff, the diameter of which is slightly less than the thickness of the pipe;
• the prepared cuff is put on the outer part of the chimney duct and lowered to the roof level;
• To avoid the possibility of repeated leakage, it is necessary to use sealant at the point where the roof comes into contact with the lower part of the cuff.

Some types of cuffs are not easily glued to the roof. Some models can be screwed to the roof with self-tapping screws, but this is only possible in cases where the roof is not made of tiles or slate.

The main disadvantage of the rubber collar is that it cannot be installed on a square or rectangular pipe. What to do in such a situation? Use any other leak repair method described above and below.

Arranging a metal apron

A chimney leak at the junction of the pipe and the roof can be eliminated by installing a metal apron. This is done as follows:

• An apron is made from a thin sheet of tin, the dimensions of which must match the dimensions of the pipe. A similar product can be purchased at a hardware store;
• the upper part of the apron is attached to the pipe and crimped using a clamp. The crimping process must be carried out carefully. Gaps are not allowed;
• The lower part of the apron is installed on the roof and secured with self-tapping screws. To ensure that the damaged area of ​​the roof does not leak, in the future the lower part of the plate should be secured on top of the roofing material, and the upper part should be removed under the sheathing.

At this point, the manufacture and installation of the metal apron can be considered complete. The sealed area will no longer cause problems. For additional sealing, the metal apron can be equipped with a rubber lining, and the contact point between the cone-shaped part and the chimney duct can be sealed with sealant.

A leaking roof near a chimney can be repaired in many ways. Such cracks are closed in 5-10 minutes, but it is worth understanding that such repairs cannot be considered high-quality. The sealed joints between the roof and vertical elements will certainly make themselves felt in a few years. Thus, such local repairs are a temporary measure. It is designed to protect against moisture entering the room until a full roofing repair is completed.

11968 0 0

Self finishing chimney on the roof in 3 options

Many people believe that finishing a chimney on the roof is needed only for beauty, this is partly true, but the aesthetic component is not in the first place here. The lining is needed, first of all, to protect the chimney, both from the inside and the outside. Next, we will look at the 3 most popular methods of arranging a chimney, plus you will learn why this is necessary and how to sheathe the pipe with your own hands.

Why finish the pipe?

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish chimneys on the roof:

1. High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air on the other, lead to condensation settling on the inner surface of the pipe. But it is not plain water, condensation is an aggressive acid cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensation;

1. 222222If a solid clinker brick or a stainless steel pipe was used to construct the chimney, then these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection in a couple of years it will begin to crumble, the steel will rust, and the concrete will crack;
2. In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as protecting the roof itself from rain. If the sealing of the sector connecting the pipe with the roof was performed poorly, then within a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden rafter system will start to deteriorate.

Standards and possible finishing options

The chimney system, as well as the entire stove system, is an important fire-hazardous facility; accordingly, all aspects of its arrangement are strictly regulated.

Rules and regulations

All important points related to the arrangement of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems are described in detail in SNiP 41-01-2003. The work is quite voluminous, so I will recount only those standards that apply to chimneys:

• The ignition temperature of thermal insulation and finishing materials the pipes should be 20 ºС higher than the maximum outside temperature of the chimney, but ideally it is advisable to line the chimney with non-combustible materials;
• Sheathing the pipe with metal is allowed, but the metal must have an anti-corrosion coating;
• The brick pipe must have walls with a thickness of 120 mm;
• Concrete chimneys are rarely installed in private houses, but if you decide to install such a pipe, the concrete must be reinforced, heat-resistant and have a wall thickness of 60 mm or more;
• The minimum gap between the chimney and the wooden roof sheathing is 130 mm;
• For ceramic chimneys not protected by thermal insulation, the gap between the pipe and wooden structures roofing is from 250 mm;

How to finish a chimney pipe

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Clinker tiles. The above-mentioned clinker brick is a good thing, but expensive. Therefore, many people lay out the pipe from ordinary brick, and line it with clinker tiles on top. The material can withstand any vagaries of weather, plus such tiles can be used to cover not only chimneys, but also the stoves themselves inside the house.
	Plaster. The option is not as durable as clinker tiles, but if you attach a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass or galvanized metal to the surface of the pipe, the plaster will stick well. But keep in mind that not everyone is capable of high-quality plastering of the surface with their own hands while standing on the slope of the roof.
	Siding. To line the chimney, you can use any type of siding, except plastic. Both metal and cement siding are equally suitable for lining chimneys. Moreover, this material is mounted on the sheathing, which means it is possible to lay insulation under it.
	Corrugated sheet. Finishing chimneys with corrugated sheeting is now one of the most common. This option harmonizes especially well with metal tiles. But if you choose the color, then steel chimneys on roofs made of slate, ondulin or ceramic tiles will also fit into the overall design.
	Bituminous shingles. Since the material is produced with the addition of bitumen, finishing a real chimney with it is strictly prohibited. In this case, we can only talk about installing a decorative cocoon made of fire-resistant plywood around the pipe, onto which the bitumen shingles are placed. But this option is only suitable for sandwich pipes equipped with a cap with a spark arrester.

Three options for independently arranging a chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After this comes frame option and an option with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we arrange a brick pipe

Waterproofing the pipe on the roof should be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already in place, you will have to partially dismantle it. The entire perimeter of 50–70 cm around is removed, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

The materials we need are a wall metal profile. You can bend it from galvanized steel with your own hands or buy it ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an external apron for the pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with the roofing material, it is easier to choose the color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides curved on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and placed under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to seal tightly brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove on the pipe with a grinder about 20–30 mm deep. The curved edge of the profile is inserted into this groove.

Next, we insert the curved edge of the profile into the groove and fill the groove with sealant. Then we fix all 4 parts of the profile and the tie, fastened from below with self-tapping screws and press washers. On top of this entire structure is laid roofing material.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter. It must extend onto the pipe by at least 100 mm. Bottom part The apron is often made from soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The scheme works something like this: the main amount of moisture is removed from the pipe by the upper apron, but if this barrier does not cope with its task and moisture gets under the roof, then it will be collected by the wall profile and the water will flow down the tie from the roof.

Option No. 2: frame installation

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated sheets, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile; later we will attach corrugated sheeting to it. It is better to make the frame from a wall profile under plasterboard; it is wider than the ceiling.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, you can build a frame from wooden blocks. Is it true wooden frame it will need to be well saturated with fire retardants, antiseptics and a water-repellent composition. Between the frame slats, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid to insulate the pipe.

Corrugated sheet or any other sheet material It is screwed to the frame slats with self-tapping screws and press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella for protection from the rain.

Option No. 3: ready-made solutions

There are no problems at all with round pipes now. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. Based on experience, such an apron can be installed in a couple of hours maximum. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

1. Select the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
2. Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
3. Crimp the lower ring of soft metal to the shape of the roof;
4. Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealant;
5. Screw the ring to the roofing material using self-tapping screws and press washers.

Conclusion

It is quite problematic to talk in detail about all the methods of finishing chimneys in one publication, so I tried to select for you the 3 most accessible ones. home handyman option. If after reading the article and watching the video in this article you still have questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

Classic devices for heating any residential building are fuel boilers and stoves operating on solid, liquid or gaseous fuel. Fuel combustion products are removed from the premises through a chimney, which is discharged through the roof. When installing it and removing the pipe above, a leak always occurs, which leads to problems with roofing waterproofing. Therefore, during installation, special care and thoroughness of work is required in order to minimize the violation of tightness and completely seal the resulting cracks. Otherwise the roof will leak.

Exiting the chimney above the roof surface and waterproofing it has its own characteristics for each roof. In this article we will look at how to install and seal its joint with slate.

Chimney installation

To carry out the output in a place that minimally needs waterproofing, and to eliminate loss of tightness, it is necessary to solve two main problems:

1. choose optimal place location of the chimney on the roof surface;
2. ensure a safe and tight connection between the roofing layers and the pipe.

Choosing the location of the pipe on the roof surface

The location should be closer to the ridge (in the case of a gable structure). It should rise above the ridge by no less than 0.5 m. The cap should also be 0.5 m above the roof surface level.

A visual diagram of the pipe location on gable roof shown in the diagram:

This location of the chimney is explained by the minimal accumulation of precipitation in this place. Less snow accumulates here in winter and the likelihood of leakage at the joint will be negligible when it melts.

Safety and tightness of the connection between the chimney and the roof

The roof of an insulated house has a multi-layer structure, including, in addition to the top roofing covering, a layer of vapor barrier, waterproofing and insulation. This design is called a “roofing pie”. It protects the house from snow, wind and rain, retains heat inside it and ensures long-term operation.

When the chimney is removed, the continuity of the layers of the cake is disrupted. They are made of flammable materials. At the junction, if the insulation is not properly installed, they may be subject to melting or fire. Therefore, they cannot be laid end to end. A safe gap must be left between the chimney pipe and the roof.

Slate sheets cannot be laid close to the pipe. When it is removed through the slate, cracks are formed, which, without sealing, will allow moisture to pass into the internal under-roof space.

Sealing process for different designs may vary. It can be round, rectangular or square. A square or rectangular chimney is usually made of brick, a round one is made of metal or asbestos cement.

Preparation of material and tools

To carry out the removal of the pipe and seal its joint, various auxiliary materials will be needed. Conventionally, they are divided into two functional groups:

1. Materials intended for sealing cracks formed at the junction of the roof and the chimney pipe. These include various aprons, undercollar penetrations. They can be made of steel with a galvanized surface, silicone or rubber materials. These products provide surface coverage of joint cracks;
2. Various sealants designed to protect against moisture inside cracks, mixtures with a cement base, bitumen mastic, as well as modern products for sealing. For example, self-adhesive materials in the form of tape.

For cracks smaller than 5 mm, heat-resistant sealants are mainly used. When the gap size is more than 1 cm, cement-based solutions are used, as well as aprons and seals made from different materials.

To perform the work you will also need the following tools:

• screwdrivers, screwdrivers, self-tapping screws;
• hammer;
• hacksaw or grinder;
• gun for applying sealant.

Lathing installation and chimney outlet through slate

The roof sheathing is made from 50x50 mm slate timber with a regular profile. If the profile of the sheets is reinforced, then it is recommended to use 75x75 mm timber for the sheathing.

The lathing can be single-layer or two-layer.

When installing a single-layer sheathing, boards or beams are fixed perpendicular to the rafters. The sheathing pitch should be 500 - 550 mm, or 750 - 800 mm.

For a two-layer sheathing structure, first a board is attached to the rafters in a parallel direction to the ridge, and then a beam is attached to it. General longitudinal and cross dimension The sheathing must correspond to a multiple of the size of the slate sheets in order to fit a whole number of them. For this purpose, the location of the overhangs is adjusted.

The general rule when laying slate is that each slate sheet must be placed on three beams. One of them should be under the center of the sheet, and the other two should be along the edges.

At the future location of the chimney, embedded elements are mounted to the sheathing. Wooden bars of sheathing and rafters must be located from it at a distance of at least 130 mm.

Seal a round pipe using a penetration or nozzle

To eliminate cracks and seal joints when exiting round pipes, it is more convenient to use ready-made products. Penetrations made of stainless galvanized steel or elastic material resistant to high temperatures.

The elastic penetration has the form of a cap and a fixing metal hoop. It can take on a relief shape that matches the wave of the slate, so it does not require adjustment to the angle of location. The elastic apron can be adjusted to any surface slope. It tightly bends around the pipe, and is pressed at the base with a hoop - a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket.

Before installing the elastic penetration, sealant is applied to its inner surface at the points of contact with the slate. This prevents water from getting inside.

The elastic apron is secured to the roof surface using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets. There are also penetrations on sale with a flexible metal ring with an adhesive film on the inside.

The metal penetration includes two parts: one is adjacent to the roof surface, the other is an apron framing the pipe.

When installing such penetration, the apron should be 150 mm above the slate wave. The space under the apron up to the joint is filled with a solution of asbestos and cement.

The metal penetration must be selected according to the slope of the roof surface. But it looks better and will last longer elastic.

Joining a square pipe on a slate roof

A square or rectangular smoke exhaust pipe is usually made of brick. Previously, at the point where it adjoined the surface on the outside, a thickening was made, which made it possible to seal the outlet hole.

Now an apron is being made around the perimeter in the form of a hill from a cement-sand mixture. This structure is called "otter". Before this, the joint gap between the slate and the chimney is closed with curved steel strips. One side of the bend is adjacent to the brick wall, and the other to the surface. This steel flashing is attached around the entire circumference of the pipe. From above it is filled with a solution made from a mixture of cement and sand. To prevent the solution from spreading, sides are made along the edges of the site. For this, cardboard wrapped in plastic film or planks of wood are used. After the mixture has hardened, the sides are removed.

The level of the frozen mixture should be higher than the roof level. To drain water flowing from the ridge, a ledge with a slope is built on its side on a cement-sand apron.

When removing a chimney pipe, no matter how carefully the roofers try to lay the roofing material around it, a small gap inevitably remains in this place. Through it, water will penetrate into the under-roof space, destroying structural elements. Sealing a pipe on the roof important stage when building a house, which must be treated with full responsibility.

Consequences of poor sealing of gaps around the pipe

Efficiency stove heating directly depends on proper sealing of seams. If the chimney is poorly protected, as a result of temperature changes, condensation will form on its walls and flow into the pipe. When the heating is running, it will begin to turn into steam, creating in the chimney on the roof high blood pressure. This will lead to a violation of traction and, as a result, a decrease in heating efficiency. Besides:

• moisture seeping through a poorly sealed gap near the pipe will fall on the inner surface of the roofing, which will lead to its rapid destruction and premature repair of the roof;
• the elements of the rafter frame are mainly made of wood - under the influence of water flowing from the roof, they will eventually begin to rot and collapse;
• When moisture gets on it, insulation loses its thermal insulation characteristics and does not retain heat indoors as effectively;
• Water leaking near the chimney on the roof becomes a source of dampness in the attic, which will lead to premature wear of the interior finishing.

To avoid unpleasant consequences that will be difficult to correct later, you need to know how to properly seal gaps.

Materials for sealing gaps around pipes

To seal cracks, a variety of available materials are used, divided into two categories:

• Elements that serve to close the space between the pipe and the roof. To do this, they use various decorative aprons and collars, which you can buy ready-made in the store or make yourself. For production, non-corrosive materials are used - galvanized steel, silicone or rubber. The functional purpose of such additional elements is rough sealing of gaps.
• A variety of sealants for filling joints left after rough sealing. This category includes waterproof mixtures based on cement and mastic. Today, many modern sealing materials have appeared on the market, which are much easier to work with and the result of the work is of better quality, for example, adhesive-based tape.

The most commonly used sealants for sealing joints around a chimney are:

• Silicone sealant- This is a waterproof, frost-resistant material, easy to use and inexpensive. It can withstand temperatures up to 150˚C, so it is often used to seal seams near pipes in baths and steam rooms.
• Bitumen mastic. Before applying it, the base is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dried. The mastic is applied in a layer of 3-4 mm; if the gap around the chimney is too wide, then it is first filled with polyurethane foam.
• Ecobit is a modern waterproofing material that provides high-quality sealing. It is a durable aluminum tape with an adhesive backing that serves as a sealing layer. modified bitumen. The ecobit tape is glued along the perimeter of the chimney pipe. To achieve maximum effect, the top is covered with a metal skirt.
• Enkryl is a German acrylic-based mastic for sealing problematic seams. The process of waterproofing a pipe is carried out in several stages. The surface of the chimney is degreased using a solvent and the first layer of sealant is applied with a brush. Then the pipe is wrapped with a viscose-based reinforcing fabric and, after impregnation, the next layer is applied. Manufacturers guarantee that a seam sealed in this way will last 10 years.

The method of sealing the seams between the chimney and the roof depends on their size, the roofing used and the shape of the pipe. If the gap is less than 5 mm, then it will be enough to seal it with silicone sealant. To seal wide gaps, more complex methods of sealing seams on the roof are used.

Sealing gaps on tile roofs

This is the easiest way to seal gaps between a pipe and a slate or tile roof that you can do yourself. For sealing you will need moisture resistant mortar cement-based, container for mixing mortar, metal corners, decorative collar and water.

Sequence of work:

1. The seam between the outer wall of the chimney and the roofing is lined with metal corners. If the pipe has a round shape, then a self-adhesive rubber seal is used for this purpose.
2. A galvanized decorative collar is placed over the top of the pipe and secured with self-tapping screws.
3. A waterproof solution is poured through the gap between the chimney and the collar and left for a day to harden.
4. After the solution has completely hardened, an inclined surface is prepared from sheet steel for liquid drainage. To do this, cut a hole in the sheet corresponding to the diameter of the decorative collar, put it through the pipe and secure it with self-tapping screws at its base.

To seal the roof with a solution, it is necessary to use a high-quality waterproof mixture, otherwise, with the first serious rain, cracks will form through which moisture will enter the under-roof space.

Sealing seams on slate roofing

The easiest way to seal seams on a slate roof is to seal it with mortar. If you have an oval or round pipe, using this technology presents certain difficulties. You can solve this problem in the following way.

A ring is made from thick cardboard, wrapped in polyethylene and inserted into the gap between the roof and the chimney pipe. On the slate, a small semblance of formwork is formed from plasticine or any other plastic material. An asbestos-cement mixture is poured into the resulting space. After the cement has set, the cardboard and formwork are removed. An asbestos-cement ring remains around the pipe, serving as waterproofing.

Sealing seams on soft roofs

To seal brick chimneys on a soft roof, the covering is cut in the form of an apron, the edges of which are folded onto the chimney and framed around its perimeter with self-adhesive rubber-based tape, for example, Wakaflex or Onduflesh-super. For greater reliability, the tape is crimped with a case. The seams along the edges of the apron are sealed with bitumen mastic.

If there are gaps large sizes, they must first be filled with fibrous material. Rope or tow impregnated with bitumen mastic are suitable for this purpose. You can also fill the top with cement mortar.

Gaps around round pipes on soft roofing are sealed with cap aprons, which are sold ready-made. All junctions of such aprons are glued with self-adhesive tape.

Sealing seams on a corrugated roof

The simplest and effective method to seal the gaps between profiled sheets and a rectangular chimney - install an apron made of galvanized steel. So that the apron does not stand out against the general background of the roof, it is selected in the same color as the roof.

Work sequences:

• L-shaped junction strips are applied to the chimney and lines are drawn on its walls along the upper edge of the strips;
• according to this marking angular grinder with a disk, grooves with a depth of 10-15 mm are made on the stone;
• The lower abutment strip is installed first, while the bend in its upper part is inserted into the groove;
• then the side strips are installed in the same way with an overlap on the bottom and lastly the top.

The grooves are filled with heat-resistant silicone sealant, and the lower horizontal parts of the planks are fixed with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. To prevent leakage at fastening points, it is necessary to use special roofing screws with rubberized heads. If you don’t have these, you can cut gaskets out of rubber and put them on a self-tapping screw under the head.

At the final stage, a so-called tie made of waterproof material is installed so that water flows into drainage system Houses. Corrugated sheeting is laid on top of the structure, another decorative false apron is installed and fixed to the pipe with self-tapping screws.

When sealing in this way, you can do without cutting the grooves, but for this you need to lay out a pipe with a protrusion under which the abutment strips will be inserted.

Many furnaces are equipped with round pipes consisting of several layers. To seal the seams around such a pipe, ready-made caps with an apron are produced. They are a galvanized sheet with a hole to which a cone is attached at an angle. The sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing, the pipe is inserted through the hole in the cap. The upper part of the cone is pressed around the pipe with a metal clamp with a gasket, ensuring a tight connection.

In addition to rigid caps, Master Flash elastic penetrations are available for sale, allowing you to seal the seam near the pipe quickly and efficiently. They can be used not only to seal chimneys, but also other roof elements - antennas, ventilation pipes. Appearance Master Flash is similar to a metal cap, but is made of rubber or silicone. It can be used at temperatures from - 50°C to 130°C on any type of coating, and is especially suitable for use on translucent roofs.

Installation of flexible penetration is not difficult at all. A hole is cut at its base slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney. The penetration is simply pulled onto the pipe, the base around the perimeter is coated with heat-resistant silicone sealant and fixed to the corrugated sheet with roofing screws. You can additionally glue the junction of the base and roof with self-adhesive tape. To protect the penetration from ultraviolet radiation, a decorative cap is placed on top of it to match the color of the roofing.