Attic space can become a comfortable office, a room for children's games or a cozy bedroom if it is properly insulated and decorated. This process is not much different from thermal insulation of rooms in the house, but still has its own nuances. It’s not difficult to do high-quality attic insulation with your own hands; the main thing is to choose the right materials and follow the instructions.

Before insulating the attic, you need to prepare it: remove everything unnecessary, clean it from dust, and seal every single crack. Particular attention is paid to the window opening, sealing the joints along the perimeter of the glass unit. Small cracks are covered with putty, large cracks are filled with pieces of foam plastic, and then sealed with cement mortar.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Insulation must be complete, therefore both the floor and walls (if any) are also checked for gaps, unevenness, and other defects. The floor beams are covered with protective compounds, and the surface of the walls is primed. The waterproofing film should be located on the outside of the rafters; its installation is usually done during the installation of the roof. Sometimes they do without waterproofing at all: roofing good quality does not allow water to pass through and perfectly protects the rafter system from excess moisture.

Tools and materials for insulation

Thermal insulation of the attic can be done using the simplest tools:

  • roulette;
  • building level;
  • hammer;
  • drills;
  • screwdriver;
  • jigsaw.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam boards, and penoplex are used as insulation. For thermal insulation rafter system It is better to choose slab materials that are more convenient to fasten between the beams. But on the attic floor you can lay both slabs and roll insulation. When choosing, you should take into account the vapor permeability of the material, its durability and strength.

Polystyrene foam is considered the cheapest and lightest insulation material; It is easy to cut, convenient to mount on both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is not afraid of moisture, but at the same time it has low vapor permeability, which can cause dampness in the attic. In addition, polystyrene foam is damaged by mice and releases toxic substances when burned.

Expanded polystyrene is stronger than polystyrene foam, less flammable and toxic, and has higher vapor permeability. It is as easy to install as polystyrene foam and is available in slabs of different thicknesses.

Mineral wool is probably the most popular insulation material for residential premises. It is valued for its environmental friendliness, non-flammability, and high thermal insulation properties. In addition, mineral wool perfectly muffles sounds, which is especially important for proper rest. When wet and severely deformed, this material loses its thermal insulation qualities, so during installation it should be handled carefully and protected from dampness.

Additionally, when insulating the attic you will need:

  • wooden slats;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • construction stapler;
  • waterproofing material;
  • adhesive aluminum tape or tape.

Attic insulation process

If everything is ready, you can start working. The most labor-intensive stage is insulating the roof, since sloping surfaces are more difficult to work with. That is why they start with the roof, then insulate the walls and floor of the attic. And only after that they begin finishing. It is not recommended to finish part of the room before laying thermal insulation in adjacent areas, as this may compromise the tightness of the layers.

Stage 1. Insulation of the under-roof space

Insulation boards are cut so that their width is 3-4 cm greater than the distance between the rafter beams. Next, measure the thickness of the rafters, because the thermal insulation layer should not protrude beyond the edges of the floor beams. If the thickness of the rafters is less than the thickness of the insulation sheet, wooden slats are placed on top along the beams. If the rafters are much thicker than the slabs, the thermal insulation is laid in two layers.

The slabs are carefully inserted between the beams and aligned at the corners and joints. There should be no gaps or voids; the entire space is tightly filled with insulation.

If used roll material, nails are stuffed vertically onto the beams in increments of 30 cm and a thick fishing line and cord are tied to the top nails. Having laid the edge of the insulation, they tighten it with fishing line, and continue this until the end of the run. When the entire under-roof space is covered with a thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier can be installed.

Stage 2. Attaching the vapor barrier

Glassine, polyethylene, and sometimes roofing felt are used as vapor barriers, but the most practical option for the attic is foil-coated polypropylene film. This material reliably protects the surface from any evaporation from inside the room, from the penetration of moisture from the outside, and also increases the thermal insulation properties of the lower layer by reflecting infrared rays.

The foil film is attached with a stapler to the rafter beams with the shiny side facing toward the attic; The film is placed on the sections with an overlap of 10 cm, and then they are glued with aluminum tape or tape. On the sides, the vapor barrier should extend 5-10 cm onto the walls, and a small allowance should also be left along the floor line. It is not recommended to stretch the film too much or leave sagging areas: the material should be evenly distributed over the surface and move away by a maximum of 2 cm.

Stage 3. Wall insulation

Depending on the type of roof, the attic walls may differ in height and location. Usually the gables of the house act as walls, but sometimes the roof does not reach the floor and vertical walls up to 1 m high are left on the sides of the attic. Since the walls are already primed when preparing the room, insulation begins with waterproofing:

  • V brickwork drill holes and attach them to dowels wooden blocks in increments of 40 cm;
  • The waterproofing membrane is fixed to the slats with staples;
  • Mineral wool slabs are inserted between the bars.

You can insulate the walls a little differently: the surface is leveled with cement plaster, primed, and then polystyrene foam boards are taken and glued to the walls.

A special reinforcing mesh is attached to the glue on top, and decorative plaster. If the finishing involves covering the attic with clapboard, siding or plasterboard, load-bearing slats must be present. The insulation layer is covered with foil film, paying special attention to the corner seams.

Stage 4. Floor insulation

The floor of the attic is also the ceiling of the house, and insulation from the attic side saves free space in living rooms. The floor can be insulated not only with slab or roll materials, but also with loose materials, for example, expanded clay. This method is suitable for houses with durable floors, since the expanded clay layer puts a fairly high load on the ceiling beams.

They start by laying a waterproofing film on the attic floor. The film is laid out on the surface, carefully distributed between the floor beams, and then fixed on the sides of the beams with a stapler. All overlaps are taped; Along the perimeter, the film should extend slightly onto the walls. Between the beams, polystyrene foam, mineral wool are tightly laid out, or a layer of expanded clay is poured. Thermal insulation should not rise above the ceilings, and voids should not be left in the corners. Now the insulation needs to be covered with a foil vapor barrier, the joints glued and boards, chipboard or plywood at least 2 cm thick on top.

Stage 5. Finishing

The edges of the film are trimmed sharp knife, the joints are sealed with tape. Starting from the ceiling, wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier film in increments of 30-40 cm, depending on the type of finish. The slats must be attached perpendicular to the supporting beams, and the sheathing, accordingly, perpendicular to the slats. In the corners between the roof and walls, 2 slats are placed side by side on each side so that the edges of the sheathing are tightly fixed to the surface. Along the perimeter of the window opening, slats are also placed for attaching the platbands.

At this point, the thermal insulation of the attic can be considered complete. If each stage was completed with all diligence, the room will remain warm even in the most severe frosts. And on hot days, a layer of insulation will keep the room cool, despite the proximity of a hot roof.

Video - Do-it-yourself attic insulation

Converting an unused attic into a cozy and warm attic can be done yourself. This may be a forced decision if there is a need for another room or a cozy place to relax. The reasons that prompted you to make this decision are not important, the main thing is that it is possible and not as difficult as it seems. How to properly insulate an attic, what materials will be needed for this - this is the first thing you should know.

Materials for attic insulation

To make the attic truly warm, you need to insulate the floor, gables (walls), and roof. You need to select the material taking into account your requirements and capabilities.

In order for the microclimate of the room to be comfortable, the insulation material must have moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity and fire resistance. Environmental friendliness is also an important requirement, compliance with which will ensure not only a comfortable, but also a healthy microclimate.

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Material options for attic insulation

Types of attic insulation: shavings, expanded clay, foam rubber, expanded polystyrene, liquid foam, mineral wool.

  1. Glass wool.
  2. Mineral wool.
  3. Extruded polystyrene foam.
  4. Styrofoam.
  5. Expanded clay.
  6. Sawdust with clay.

Each of the insulation materials has its own heat transfer coefficient, so when choosing, focus on the climate of your area. To carry out the work efficiently, you need to find out everything about the selected insulation, down to how and where it should be stored.

For example, mineral wool, after opening the package, increases significantly in volume, therefore, it will require quite a lot of space to store it. Also, to work with mineral wool and glass wool, you will need protective equipment, such as a respirator, gloves and thick clothing.

How to properly insulate the walls, ceiling, i.e. roof and floor, what stages of work await you, you should find out in advance and prepare thoroughly for the upcoming work.

When arranging an attic room, think through all the little things in advance and anticipate the unexpected.

Thorough preparation is already half the success.

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Step-by-step description of attic insulation

  1. The first thing you need to check is the condition of the entire structure, its reliability, as well as identifying areas covered with fungal mold. If necessary, if this has not been done previously, you need to treat all elements with special means that protect the material from rotting, since after insulation this will be impossible to do.
  2. Next, proceed to creating under-roof waterproofing, which is installed on top of the rafter structure.

For this you will need:

  1. Nails or staples.
  2. Insulating material.

The insulation is made with an overlap of 10 cm. The sheets are laid across the slope, starting from areas near the eaves and moving towards the ridge of the roof, securing them with staples or nails. It is very important to lay the waterproofing with a sag of 1 cm, this will help prevent future damage to it due to a sudden change in temperature.

It is worth noting that if thermal insulation mansard roof will be insufficient or incorrect, then in the spring you are guaranteed the appearance of icicles, which, if knocked down, can damage the roof. This is another reason to approach your work more carefully and responsibly.

Now it is necessary to install the counter-lattice and sheathing; for this, blocks with a size of 5x5 cm are usually used. The sheathing bars are fastened across, with a pitch determined based on the roofing material.

The counter-lattice is placed along the rafters; its height should create a ventilation gap for the insulation layer. To determine the size of the ventilation gap, you need to divide the length of the slope by 500, but it is worth considering that this value should not be less than 2 cm.

After this, be sure to treat the sheathing and counter-lattice with special means of protection against rot and mold. By the way, it is undesirable to use a spray bottle for this; it is much more effective to coat wooden surfaces paint brush or with a roller. The spray bottle is used only for hard-to-reach places.

The next stage is the implementation of direct thermal insulation work. To prevent the appearance of gaps between thermal insulators, it is correct to start installing insulation from the bottom up.

It is imperative to press the materials tightly against each other; loose fit and cracks will lead to freezing and the formation of ice on the roofing surface. If you are installing insulation in two layers, then in this case the seams of the top should overlap the bottom ones, that is, the installation is carried out “staggered”.

When working with oblique angles, the heat insulator is given the desired shape in advance. After completing the work, it is necessary to check the entire insulated surface for cracks.

If there are any, then they need to be sealed as follows. To do this, a strip is cut from the insulation sheet, the width of which should exceed the width of the gap by more than 1 cm, and it is installed in a spacer on the problem area.

The vapor barrier is stretched over the insulation materials. Fastening is done using conventional construction stapler. The material is also laid with an overlap of 10 cm.

A foil-type film is well suited for vapor barrier. It prevents moisture from entering from lower rooms and reflects radiant heat very effectively. To strengthen the joints, adhesive tape is used.

After installing a vapor barrier, you need to secure horizontal blocks to the guide beams. In this way you will create an internal sheathing, the task of which, firstly, is to create additional fastening for the thermal layer, and secondly, to protect the vapor layer from mechanical damage. Thirdly, this is an excellent and very convenient basis for decorative finishing attics.

For example, if you plan to use plasterboard for final finishing, then attach the bars in increments of 59 cm, which is exactly the distance required to place one plasterboard slab.

Every room of a private house needs to be insulated, especially if it is under a roof. If you neglect this or violate the insulation technology, then in the cold season the wind will blow into all the cracks, as a result of which condensation will accumulate on the rafters and ceiling, which will definitely lead to rotting of the wooden parts of the roof. That is why you need to foresee all the nuances in advance and properly insulate the attic space.

How to insulate an attic roof from the inside

The range of thermal insulation materials is so large that it is quite difficult to immediately decide on the choice of insulation suitable for the attic.

  1. Fiberglass material is the cheapest, but still has many advantages. For example, it does not burn, is non-toxic, adheres well to other materials and retains heat. Performance properties are preserved only if installation technology is fully followed. But fiberglass also has disadvantages. This material does not emit harmful substances, but fine dust from fragments of fiberglass may appear in the room. The result of contact with such dust can be problems with the skin, it will begin to itch, which may cause scratches that do not heal. for a long time. Therefore, it is very important to use a respirator when working with the material and carefully follow safety precautions.

    It is also difficult to install fiberglass on walls that are at an angle, which means that difficulties may arise when insulating the attic.

  2. Fiberglass insulation can cause constant discomfort Mineral wool is a natural insulation material with the addition of synthetic fibers

    , which improve its performance characteristics. Its main advantages are lightness, environmental safety, and soundproofing properties. Therefore, this material is almost ideal for insulating the attic. It can be produced both in the form of slabs and in rolls. To insulate the attic, it is more convenient to use the first option. Mineral wool is considered good insulation

  3. due to its fire resistance

    Polystyrene foam is a material that perfectly combines good thermal insulation properties with low price and ease of installation. This material will slightly increase the weight of the attic structure and practically does not require any special skills for installation. However, polystyrene foam is not capable of transmitting steam. There is also another significant drawback - mice love it.

  4. Polyurethane foam. A unique insulation material with a liquid structure. For application, a special spray device is used. After this, the polyurethane foam hardens and forms a monolithic coating without seams, which means that the presence of cold bridges is excluded.

    Polyurethane foam initially has a liquid structure

  5. Foil materials perform several functions at once: insulation and mirror reflection, which does not allow heat to escape outside. This is possible only if the material is laid with an aluminum layer inside the attic. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 5 cm between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer.

    Foil insulation performs several functions at once

Video: polystyrene foam or mineral wool - what to choose

Basic rules for insulating an attic from the inside

Insulating the attic from the inside involves arranging a structural pie. It has a certain scheme, from which it is not recommended to deviate:

  1. Cladding made of plasterboard sheets.
  2. Vapor barrier. It is recommended to use a membrane. The vapor barrier layer is a coating made of rolled material with an overlap of 10 cm. The sheets must be secured along vertical and horizontal joints using a special adhesive tape.

    Vapor barrier prevents condensation

  3. Lathing. It performs three functions at once: it holds the thermal insulation material, is the basis for the vapor barrier layer, and forms a ventilation space (which is not always needed; this is mainly needed when using foil insulation).
  4. Thermal insulation layer. Can be laid in several layers if necessary. When insulating an attic from the inside, the insulation is placed in the space between the rafters.

    Most often, insulation is installed in the space between the rafters.

  5. Waterproofing layer. It is necessary to protect the insulation from getting wet. If you neglect this rule, the thermal insulation layer will lose its performance properties. It is recommended to leave a ventilation gap between the insulation and waterproofing to prevent condensation from forming inside the cake.
  6. The counter grille is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. Additionally, you need to make holes in the area of ​​the base of the slopes and valley. The width of the ventilation gap depends entirely on the roofing material used. When covering with slate or other similar material, this parameter is 25 mm; during installation flat material- 50 mm.
  7. Windproofing. This layer does windproof function, it traps heat when there is excessive ventilation in the ventilation gap. Windproofing is laid over the rafters and secured with slats. After laying the material, finishing work is carried out on the arrangement of the roof.

    When insulating an attic, it is important to follow a certain sequence of layers

Insulation methods

Insulating the attic from the inside can be done in several ways:

  1. Installation of insulation between rafters. This method is considered the simplest, so when insulating with your own hands, you can safely use it. There are certain rules, compliance with which in this case is mandatory. First of all, this concerns the presence of a ventilation gap, which must be between the hydro- and heat-insulating layers. This will prevent condensation from accumulating. It is also recommended to carefully monitor the thickness of the insulation. It must fully correspond to the thickness of the rafters. That is why mineral wool is most often chosen when choosing this insulation method.

    The dimensions of the insulating board must be larger than the dimensions of the space between the rafters

  2. Complex insulation. In this case, several types of thermal insulation material are used that have hydraulic properties. However, there is a risk of condensation accumulation, since there is no ventilation gap, and the ceiling height becomes smaller.
  3. Installation of insulation above the rafters. This method allows you to save useful space. The rafters themselves can play the role of interior decor. When insulating, it is very important to equip a hydro- and vapor barrier layer.

    Rafters can be part of interior decor

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands step by step

The peculiarity of the attic is that this attic floor is almost entirely formed by the surface of the roof. It is an inclined part of the rafter system, which needs insulation. Additionally, you can insulate the attic floor.

Materials and tools

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic from the inside, so a list of tools and materials will be provided accordingly. For insulation you need:


The following materials will also be required:

  • the insulation itself is mineral wool, which is recommended to be cut into suitable pieces in advance;
  • wooden counter slats.

Roof insulation

The attic slopes are on a slope, which means that to insulate them you need to use a material that does not deform over time.

  1. It is also recommended to take not a continuous sheet of insulation, but pieces of it. This will allow the material to be tightly inserted between the rafters, and it will not sag under its own weight. The entire process of roof insulation is as follows:

    Cut the mineral wool into pieces that are slightly larger than the space between the rafters.

  2. The material can be laid between the rafters or under them
  3. The gaps should also be filled with thermal insulation material. To do this, cut a strip from a roll of mineral wool under the ruler that is 2–2.5 cm larger than the gap. Drive the resulting piece of material into the gap with force.
  4. In a place where the roof changes its plane, it is very important to correctly join the pieces of insulation. First of all, this concerns the ridge and the junction of the roof and the wall.

    The insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane, which is laid overlapping and secured with staples.

The vapor barrier membrane is overlapped

It is strictly forbidden to use polyurethane foam to seal gaps between insulation boards. Therefore, it is recommended to cut the material in advance, taking into account the reserve, so that the insulation lies end to end.

Video: how to insulate an attic roof from the inside

Insulation of floors During the construction of a private house equipped with an attic, one of three types


ceilings That is why there are three ways to insulate them:

On a horizontal surface you can use rolled material, on a vertical surface you can take pieces of material of the appropriate size.

Insulation of gables


The method of insulation depends on the design of the building:

Insulation of partitions


To insulate the attic partitions of a private house, it is better to choose mineral wool slabs. This is due to the fact that the structure should not be made heavier, and it is also recommended to ensure its fire resistance. To insulate partitions you need:

Video: foam insulation

Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space by adding an attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.

The process of insulating an attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roof structure, as well as understand whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic space, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations in which the roof can be constructed:

  • There is only a ventilation gap between the rafters and the sheathing. In this case, the roof is considered completely unsuitable for insulation. You will have to completely disassemble the roof structure to insulate it.
  • A polyethylene film is laid between the sheathing and the rafters, acting as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof can be considered fully prepared for subsequent insulation work.
  • A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the sheathing. Option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, main feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.

Insulation materials

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, summer house, cottage can be done using various means. There are liquid materials, elastic ones, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before you start making your choice, be sure to pay attention to the roof structure. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it is better to be safe. The simplest example– insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any insulation is suitable for a simple gable structure, then not all of them are suitable for a sloping roof.

If you don't consider liquid insulation, then the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, the slabs contain dense insulation, while the rolls contain fibrous insulation.

It should be noted that Not all options available on the market are suitable for insulation from the inside.. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need to level cold bridges.

Materials should be considered for internal thermal insulation in details.

Styrofoam

Ordinary polystyrene foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made slabs, which makes it easy to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is a budget thermal insulation solution, it has many advantages.

So, polystyrene foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it special means , which will clog the pores on the surface, and water will simply flow down the foam boards.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam has very low weight due to the presence large quantity voids between the granules and its components. This makes it possible to handle the insulation work alone. Lightness has the further advantage of easing the load on the roof structure.

Polystyrene foam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: you can cut the material, cutting out pieces of the desired size, with an ordinary stationery knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, polystyrene foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Third, cannot be decorated with polystyrene foam wooden floors, since over time the wood will shrink and gaps will appear between the foam boards.

How to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam is described in the following video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of polystyrene foam. The insulating solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other installation compositions, for example, polyurethane foam, is that during the hardening process it does not expand, maintaining its original appearance and condition.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

Liquid foam is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction stage, but can also be used after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of its dense counterpart, is almost zero, which makes it imperative to take care of adequate roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, so it copes with its main function – thermal insulation – perfectly. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation using foam insulation will be a worthy and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of installation. So, polystyrene foam covers the rafters, which results in better tightness. Expanded polystyrene boards are easily fixed to each other using glue. Due to its low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, but it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of the electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.

If no communications are planned for the attic, polystyrene foam will be an excellent choice, especially considering that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal, and any roofing coverings.

Minvata

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to penoplex. This material is a roll material, which is due to the ease of installation of heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which fundamentally affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. In this case, additional fastenings are not required, it is enough to just cut the wool slabs 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not attack cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulating layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of environmentally friendly insulation. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. It is also better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from surrounding street noise.

Read more about insulating the attic with mineral wool in the next video.

Glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but the difference is obvious. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. Fiberglass is used here. Thanks to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has better noise-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its performance properties.

Many are afraid that the use of glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a living space will lead to harmful consequences. Actually this is not true. If you do everything correctly Finishing work, then no harm will be caused to health. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than penoplex because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.

Stone wool

Among all insulating wools, stone wool is more expensive than its analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it itself is safe and practically devoid of the disadvantages inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, it is not afraid of elevated temperatures, since it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

Stone wool perfectly blocks all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other cotton wool. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if you squeeze it, it does not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs that can be easily cut into desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed and then applied by spreading the material using special equipment. It is believed that this way it will better seal all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.

There are two disadvantages here. Firstly, you need to apply ecowool using special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material cannot be called affordable either.

Polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable purchase expenses, it is easier to lease equipment - rent it.

The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, so when working with the material it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam because it has a similar operating principle. It expands in the same way when it hardens, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro- and vapor barrier layers.

All this makes polyurethane foam an ideal choice, regardless of what material the roofing and ceilings are made of. Optimal solution when working with it, invite a team of specialists who will complete the installation in a few hours using their own equipment, doing everything in compliance with technology.

Penofol

Penofol is the only foil insulation of its kind. It is produced in the form of slabs of polyethylene foam, coated with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat, returning it back into the room, so heat loss is minimized.

However, it is important to ensure that when laying, the foil side is facing inward and not outward.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Thanks to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to claim excellent thermal insulation properties material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since correct installation it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself thanks to its special texture.

If you plan to use the attic for permanent residence, then by choosing penofol, you will not regret it.

Preparing the premises

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check whether the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the entire attic area. If not, then there’s no point in insulating it – you won’t be able to live here anyway.

Next, remove all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. The insulation will be installed either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that a roof with leaks must first be corrected, and only after that can you proceed to insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition, had no gaps except for ventilation.

Vapor barrier

Creating attic floor For winter accommodation, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first step is to check for a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is installed, even if there are no plans to use the space under it as an additional room in the future. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling the roofing materials. Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

Can be used to create a vapor barrier various materials. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as specific combinations with insulating materials. All this must be kept in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.

In addition, this will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier layer.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly do not recommend using it. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not “breathe” at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, the greenhouse effect. Thus, condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, ends up on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if your home has a vapor barrier made using polyethylene film, avoid purchasing water-absorbing insulation materials, such as glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to deteriorate and crack, so after a short period of time you will still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.

Glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, which is why it has received universal recognition. However, we will have to act in two directions here. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this guarantees reliable protection and optimal microclimate in the attic. On top, between the roofing and the counter-lattice, a double layer of glassine should be laid. Only then can the optimal effect be achieved.

Glassine is mostly needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any material can be chosen as an insulating material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not susceptible to rodent attacks. Both cotton wool and penoplex options are perfect.

Ruberoid

Ruberoid has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. Nevertheless, If possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that roofing felt is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for waterproofing and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.

If you decide to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good vapor barrier qualities from it. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same plastic film.

It is worth keeping in mind that condensation may accumulate on the roofing felt on the inside, which will lead to the insulation getting wet. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in the winter, and in the spring it is planned to redo everything), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing felt.

Izospan

The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barriers due to the fact that it was developed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensation and subsequently prevents it from getting on the insulation. The double-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On one side it is smooth, and on the other it is a little rough. On the rough side, condensate droplets are retained and evaporate. With the help of isospan, not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic are vapor-insulated.

Depending on the properties of isospan, the labeling varies. The most expensive, but also materials with energy saving effect FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensation from rolling off and damaging the insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, and not from steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications: from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There are diffusion, super-diffusion, and also anti-condensation, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find one of these membranes after disassembling the cladding material, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its quality. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and rafters.

The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensation and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side should be well protected from moisture. Only in this case will the variety cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to take into account the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the internal space. The number and thickness of the slabs depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the slabs depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the pitch between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then you will need to prepare additional sheathing yourself to make fixing the thermal insulation possible.

As for sprayed insulation, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. You will first need to clarify such data as the expected thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Insulation scheme

Since when insulating an attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the layering scheme only for it.

If you start from the outside, the pie will look like this:

  • Located on top roofing material, which is not touched. Underneath it there is a sheathing and a counter-lattice, which serve as a frame.
  • Next comes a layer of hydro- and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
  • A layer of insulation is laid under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, additional sheathing can be constructed here.
  • A vapor barrier layer is attached to the side of the room, protecting the insulation.
  • Finally, finishing is done.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate an attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the plan for placing the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

  • It is necessary to retreat slightly from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to “breathe”.
  • After this, the insulation is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, or sprayed. How it is necessary to handle this or that insulation material is written in the instructions for it.
  • Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor should be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that faces the insulation, but this should not happen.
  • At the last stage, finishing is carried out. You can choose from many options, but usually purchase drywall, lining or MDF boards.

  • It is better to buy cotton insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they will not require time to “track”;
  • to insulate the floor you need to choose polystyrene foam or other inexpensive material;
  • the insulation does not require additional fastening, but if necessary, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.

With rising home prices, more and more boring attics are being transformed into wonderful lofts. To ensure the comfort of the future inhabitants of this room, the insulation of the attic walls must be carried out top level. Let's find out what materials and technologies are best to do this with.

How to insulate attic walls - looking for a solution

Attic insulation can and should be considered as part of a complex of energy saving works. Even if you do not plan to inhabit the attic in the near future, it should definitely be insulated - the greatest heat loss in a residential building is quite rightly attributed to the walls, basement and roof. It is precisely because of the cold ceiling that the entire second floor in winter may be unsuitable for comfortable living.

On the market you will find many offers for materials, and construction crews keep up with the variety of offers. It doesn’t matter whether you insulate the attic walls yourself or invite builders, you will have to choose materials for insulation. We recommend avoiding it, no matter how attractive its cost may seem. Firstly, it has low vapor permeability, which is why there will be constantly high humidity inside the attic - not the best “company” for rafters, drywall and lining.

Secondly, as the rafters dry out, cracks form between them and the foam, through which the cold from the street can penetrate into the room. And thirdly, mice often live in polystyrene foam. Extruded polystyrene foam is a little more expensive than polystyrene foam, but it is much more suitable as insulation, and the installation technology is completely different. To avoid the appearance of cracks as the rafters dry out, polystyrene foam boards are laid on top of them. If you decide to choose this material, look for slabs with tongue-and-groove joints.

Especially common is the insulation of basalt mineral wool. In terms of its qualities, this is an ideal insulation for attic walls: it is not flammable, does not rot, does not absorb moisture, is durable and, of course, has low thermal conductivity. Mineral wool is produced both in soft rolls and in the form of more elastic slabs. The latter are easier to work with - by cutting a piece a few centimeters wider, you can insert the slab between the rafters, and it will hold on due to its own elasticity. In the case of soft material, you will have to additionally make a mesh of threads, which will hold the cotton wool in its original position.

Glass wool is a material similar to mineral wool, and the operating technology is also identical. However, there are still some differences. So, glass wool fibers are longer, and this makes the material more durable and elastic. This type of insulation has a slightly lower hydrophobicity, but a higher thermal insulation coefficient. Quite often, the choice problem is solved simply and effectively - both materials are chosen. The floor is insulated with glass wool, and the rafters are insulated with mineral wool.

How to insulate attic walls - from the inside, without seams or fasteners

Ecowool – more modern way attic insulation. The insulation technology itself is especially good. Using a hose and a special apparatus, the pre-crushed material is blown into all the cracks and voids between the ceilings and rafters. The hose can be used to reach places where no one has gone before, that is, to the most remote corners, where you cannot squeeze through even if you bend over.

Ecowool itself consists of 80% cellulose - ordinary shredded waste paper mixed with flame-retardant and antiseptic substances, most often boric acid and borax, can act as this. To bind the fibers into a monolithic shell, a small amount of lignin is used, which is activated when moistened. The thermal insulation properties of this material are no worse than those of glass wool, but glass wool is more dangerous to human health - its fibers irritate the respiratory tract. Ecowool also has a high sound insulation index.

Another sprayed insulation is polyurethane foam. The service life of this material is at least 25 years. It also does not need additional fastening - due to its high adhesion to all materials except polyethylene, it will adhere perfectly to both vertical and horizontal surfaces. The polyurethane layer perfectly fills all voids during the spraying process. However, spraying it requires a special installation. However, the unit can certainly be rented - the process of using it is quite simple and will be understandable even to a person far from construction. As a rule, one portable installation is enough for 100 square meters of area.

Insulating attic walls from the inside - step-by-step steps

If the attic was planned during the construction of the house, then the roof structure will have a special shape - the walls of the attic in such cases are the roof elements themselves. If an additional room is created inside the attic, additional construction of internal walls 1–1.5 meters high may be required. In this case, the height of the attic itself should be at least two meters, and the width - at least two and a half meters.

There are three possible scenarios:

  • A layer of thermal insulation is laid on top of the supporting frame.
  • Thermal insulation materials are laid from the inside of the room.
  • Thermal insulation fills the space between the structural elements of the frame.

The first scenario is feasible if the attic is a pre-planned and designed part of the house, and insulation is carried out as part of a complex of works on the facade. In this case, the rafter structures are directly elements of the attic room, and insulation is carried out on top of them. Internal walls may not be insulated.

In the second case, a layer of insulation is laid from the inside of the attic, after which finishing work is carried out. The third option is only possible in the case of wooden rafters, since the metal elements will freeze and accumulate condensation.

It is important that the thickness of the insulation is less than the thickness of the elements themselves - in this case, air will circulate between them.

Floor insulation is usually installed between joists or directly on the subfloor, after which tongue and groove or other leveling material is laid. Numerous homemade products and the old grandfather’s method mixed with lime are still not forgotten. Lime prevents mice from infesting the space between the subfloor and the finished flooring. However, this material is quite flammable, so if you want to arrange rooms with a lot of electrical equipment in the attic, then it is better to use a different technology.

If ecowool is used for spraying, then you first need to fill the surface with a special lathing to which it will cling. Polyurethane foam does not require any sheathing; it is applied from the inside to the already assembled roof, then it is covered with plasterboard slabs.

When insulating, it is very important to follow all ventilation rules - the risk of the thermal insulation getting wet always exists. The only thing that can prevent rotting, mold, or at least an unpleasant odor is good ventilation. It is also better to entrust the issue of installing windows to specialists who are well versed in their field - they should prevent the possibility of water flowing into the room. Please note that the price of such defects or errors can cost you very dearly, up to overhaul the entire attic space.