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At major renovation walls, first of all, you should think about plaster. It can be completely dismantled and replaced, or you can simply patch it up. Let's look at how to repair plaster on old walls.

Replacement

Repair of plaster begins with its inspection. After all, it is necessary to redo not only the fallen areas, but also those where greasy spots or fungus have appeared:

  • Once you have identified the work area, you will need to remove the old plaster layer from it;
  • After this, they clean the masonry seams for about two meters and wash everything with warm water;
  • Plastering is carried out in three steps. First, the wall is wetted, then primed, and after that a new layer of mortar is applied with your own hands. For large areas, masonry is done using beacons. The beacons are located from each other, at a distance according to your rule, as shown in the photo. In this case, it is necessary that the edges of the rule lie on the surface of the beacons when editing the solution. If the area being treated is not too large, then the edges of the old layer can serve as beacons.

Considering the time of year in the yard, plaster has its own nuances. At high temperature outside the window, fresh solution must be wetted from time to time, otherwise everything may crack. If defects are found, they can be removed with a scraper or a piece of brick.

For plaster wooden surfaces lime mortar is used, but rooms with high humidity require the use cement mixtures. For protruding corners, a gypsum-based solution is used. It has a quick setting effect. The corner is cleaned of dust and dirt, moistened with water, a pre-mixed solution is applied and the corner is given the correct shape.

To find an area with a loose layer, use a hammer or wooden mallet. The entire surface is tapped, and a dull sound will indicate exactly where the finish has come off.

Restoration

In addition to peeling and destruction, the plaster layer may have other defects that will require repair of the plaster interior walls. Over time, stains of grease and soot appear on the wall:

  • Before applying paint or wallpaper, they must be removed. Grease stains are removed with a two percent solution of hydrochloric acid;
  • But for rust you need a 3% solution of the same acid. In addition, copper sulfate will help get rid of rust;
  • If the stains are too deeply ingrained and cannot be removed, they can be painted over with whitewash or special dyes.

In addition to stains, defects also include holes and, naturally, they must be repaired before facing with any materials. To do this, the hole is shaped into a rectangle, cleaned of dust and covered with a solution.

Any surface on which restoration is carried out must first be cleaned in separate places from dirt and dust. After this, it must be treated with a soda solution.

If you decide to restore the wall under the tiles, then:

  • first, the entire tile is tapped with care and its poorly secured parts are immediately removed;
  • Sometimes the tiles cannot be removed by simple tapping, so you have to break them in separate places. This must be done very carefully, starting from the middle and slowly moving to the edges, so as not to damage the adjacent tile;
  • if a fairly strong layer of old mortar remains in place of the tile, then it is better not to touch it. You can stick it on it new tiles using special glue, as shown in the photo. This glue is based on casein-cement mastic and is added to the solution in a certain proportion - 1 to 3 to 1 to 2.5. Where glue and sand occupy one part each, cement accounts for three parts, and water accounts for two and a half. At the connection to the window, double-sided foam tape is used under a layer of plaster.

Cracks

A wall with cracks is cleaned of residues facing materials and covered with a layer of primer. After a few hours, when the primer has completely dried, the surface is cleaned to perfect smoothness.

Knead cement mortar and apply a thin layer of it to the surface, after which it is leveled using the rule, as shown in the video. If the crack is very large or there are many of them, then you can resort to a plaster mesh. It will give strength to the plaster layer.

Alignment

Wall alignment can be achieved in three ways:

  1. using special panels for finishing;
  2. applying a layer of plaster;
  3. by combining.

Drywall can also be used for leveling. Most perfect option for any surface is the use of plaster and drywall at the same time.

By hanging a wall, you can find out how much it deviates from the norm. To do this, hammer a nail at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling. A plumb line is attached to it and a second nail is driven in from below. The same thing is done on the other side. Cords are stretched between the nails from the top right nail to the bottom left one. The cords are similarly stretched between the second pair of nails. If the distance between the wall and the cord is more than 5 mm, then the surface must be leveled.

Let's sum it up

Before any cosmetic work, old plaster must be checked. Its restoration will not take you much time and effort, but will save you from completely redoing the renovation and unnecessary financial costs.

The plaster is crumbling, what should I do? It happens that, saving on cement, builders make plaster almost from sand. And such material is used indoors and for exterior finishing walls of any building.

Plaster increases the strength of the wall by almost 30 percent, which is very important, and only then the owners decide for themselves: to paint the walls, tile them or glue them with wallpaper. In addition, such a coating helps to level walls, hide defects on them and ideally prepare surfaces for applying liquid or gluing regular wallpaper.

Plaster can crumble due to high humidity in the room if the technology was violated during its application or a low-quality solution was used. To ensure that the plaster holds firmly, it is better to entrust the work to an experienced craftsman.

If the walls of a home are plastered with old cement-sand mortar (see Let's look at how to plaster with cement-sand mortar), which begins to crumble at the touch of a spatula, or you are not sure whether it is possible to putty on the old coating without damaging the mortar, the plaster should be:

  • Strengthen. This method is used if the coating is just crumbling. In this case, before starting puttying, it is enough to apply a deep penetration primer to the old plaster or treat the wall surface with concrete contact, which should fix the surface well in cases where the primer cannot cope with this.
  • Use a more radical method - completely remove the coating. This method is used if the plaster is crumbling. This usually occurs due to non-compliance with the technology when applying it or from incorrect temperature regime when the room temperature is very low.

To do this you need:

  1. tear off all the old plaster (see How to remove old plaster from walls without problems);
  2. treat the walls with a primer;
  3. putty everything again.

After this, you can apply the finishing coat. In this case, the price of the work will be higher, but the result will be better and more reliable.

Which method to choose is up to everyone to decide for themselves; the main thing is to determine when the plaster becomes unusable. Plaster, in principle, should not have high strength - it’s just finishing material, and not a load-bearing element of the building.

How to repair plaster

Advice: If you are not confident in your own abilities or have never had to plaster walls before, you should trust the professionals. They will complete the entire process faster and better than a self-taught amateur.

Plaster repair is carried out in several stages. To isolate the wall surface from moisture, you will need to apply a protective compound, and then proceed to further operations.

The repair procedure is as follows:

  • The wall is carefully and carefully scraped with a metal brush to remove all residues. old plaster.
  • A special primer mixture is applied in two layers.
  • Any stains remaining after the primer has dried are lightly washed off with a stream of water.
  • The wall dries for about three hours.

Advice: If the coating defects are very serious, the damaged areas should be re-applied with a putty mixture or plastered.

  • The applied coating should be about three centimeters thick.
  • When plastering a wall, the powder is dissolved in water and applied in a small layer.
  • The first layer is performed to level the wall (see Leveling walls with plaster according to all the rules).
  • After one hour, a second layer is applied superficially.

How to strengthen plaster

To work you will need:

  • Primer.
  • PVA glue.
  • Wallpaper glue.

Instructions for strengthening cracked, peeling or crumbling plaster:

  • To avoid such defects, the plastered surface must be strengthened with a primer. This coating is an important condition for finishing and repair work good quality. It is used to finish the surface of walls and ceilings before applying paint, wallpapering and tiling. A primer is a mixture of a solvent, a binder component and various additives that determine its properties. The dried material creates an opaque film of one thickness, increasing the adhesion or adhesion of subsequent layers of coating.
  • According to their purpose, primers are divided into:
  1. metal surfaces;
  2. wooden surfaces;
  3. universal, having acrylic base. Acrylics are used for concrete, cement and gypsum plaster, wood and fiberglass wallpaper. Such compositions dry quickly and do not have a pungent odor.
  • The impregnating composition is applied with a roller, in one layer or with a wide paint brush.
  • When finishing rooms with high humidity: bathrooms, showers, special compounds are used, they create a layer of waterproofing. For example, Aura Primer is suitable for dry rooms and high humidity. The mixture is diluted with water immediately before use in a ratio of 1:4. The degree of dilution can be reduced to 1:6, this will increase protection against moisture.
  • Cheaper strengthening of plaster can be done with wallpaper glue. This method is often used before wallpapering. With high-quality glue, the adhesion is strong, and the wallpaper and putty will not come off. But this option does not apply to heavy vinyl wallpaper.
  • An unjustified savings is the use of PVA glue for primer, especially in rooms with high humidity. The adhesive contains dry components; they are capable of absorbing moisture, which after painting can contribute to the appearance of matte spots due to uneven paint absorption.

How plaster is strengthened with impregnations

Today, manufacturers produce high-quality “strengthening” impregnations in plastic containers. Before use, the liquid is poured into a convenient container, then applied to the plaster with brushes or rollers.

Some types of compounds penetrate more than a meter into plaster and concrete. At the same time, they close the pores at the chemical level, transform the material, and bind even microscopic particles together.

After strengthening the plaster with impregnations, cracks will not form and the coating will no longer crumble. Using this method with your own hands to strengthen the surface is quite simple.

In addition to using special impregnating compounds, the plaster can be strengthened using a reinforcing mesh, and then putty can be applied. The option for strengthening the plaster is selected depending on the situation and goals.

How to strengthen plaster with reinforcing mesh

In more complex cases, reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the plaster. In this case, the plaster layer is very damaged, as can be seen in the photo.

Tip: To strengthen the plaster, you must use a metal mesh, preferably stainless steel. Once it rusts, traces of rust may show through the thick coating, resulting in additional rust control costs.

With this method:

  • The mesh is attached to the wall in any way: with dowels or nails, which depends on the material of the wall.
  • A new layer of coating is applied on top, not in too large a layer. The main thing is that the mesh is closed.

The video in this article shows details of strengthening the plaster.

Repairing wall plaster is an operation necessary when in some places it begins to crack and move away from the masonry. Most often, cracks and chips appear near window frames And doorways, but sometimes defects appear in other places.

If cracks are clearly visible on the surface of plastered walls, then delamination is not easy to notice. In certain areas, swelling appears, and when tapped, the layer of plaster collapses and falls. The reasons are varied, but the most common is improper surface preparation before applying the plaster mixture.

Preparatory work


The swollen layer must be removed

Repairing old plaster does not require complete removal of the previous layer. It is carried out in small areas where damage or detachment is found.

If the area of ​​the wall section to be repaired exceeds the length of the rule, then construction beacons must be installed.

In cases where the area of ​​the damaged surface is quite small, the edges of the previous coating act as beacons.

Before you begin surface restoration work, you need to identify all existing defects.

To do this, during the preparation process, all detected cracks are opened using a spatula, and with its handle it is necessary to tap all suspicious places.

Where the sound is dull or there is noticeable swelling of the old one, beat off the damaged layer with a hammer and remove it with a spatula, exposing the masonry.

When repairing old plaster in large areas, it is necessary to perform reinforcement using a chain-link mesh for this purpose, which is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws or special mushrooms.

Reinforcement


The solution must penetrate under the mesh

Rub the surface with a wooden or plastic grater in a circular motion, after wetting the tool with water.

It often happens that when preparing an apartment for renovation, it is discovered that all the walls have holes and resemble Swiss cheese. Holes and grooves remain from old wiring, nails for cabinets and shelves, former sockets and switches, and simply from plaster falling off along with a piece of the wall. The ceiling window into the bathroom is also an eyesore. But it’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are afraid, but the hands do. Let's roll up our sleeves and start fixing the defects, especially since there is nothing complicated here.

Filling up small holes

First, we clean small holes on the wall from screws or dowels with a nail of a smaller diameter. We blow with a compressor to remove dust from there, moisten it generously with water to equalize the moisture content of the surface and the damp repair compound. We fill the resulting holes with putty to the maximum depth. The final touch is sanding it flush with the main surface.

What to do with the middle hole in the wall?

Repairing a hole from an old outlet or a carefully removed utility pipe is not much more difficult than getting rid of a small hole. The principle of surface treatment is the same:

  • We remove all parts falling off the wall. Including suspiciously wobbly ones - they can cause a lot of trouble after the repair is completed.
  • Using a brush or vacuum cleaner, remove crumbled pieces and dust.
  • Spray the surface generously with water from a spray bottle.
  • For better adhesion of the mortar to the wall, it is necessary to use
  • We fill the hole with a solution of sand, cement and water (3:1:1) or use a ready-made plaster mixture and let it dry.
  • We control the drying process: if cracks appear, we rub it with a primer, leveling the surface. Dry and then, if necessary, repeat priming.
  • We finally level it with a sander or by hand using medium-grain sandpaper.
  • After complete drying, we can consider that the hole is sealed and the surface is ready for finishing.

The solution takes at least 12 hours to dry. At this time, no manipulations with the treated surface can be performed.

Through holes from pipes are first supported on one side with a piece of plywood. Having sealed the surface on one side of the wall, we carry out the same procedure on the other.

How to repair a large hole?

Sometimes it happens that when repairing walls, not only pieces of plaster fall out. They may be joined by broken pieces of concrete or brick. In this case, it is necessary to use additional reinforcement of the wall surface.

  • Similar to the previous cases, we clean the hole from all unnecessary things.
  • We drive in dowels or screw in powerful screws. If the pothole is large enough, they need to be additionally tied with wire.
  • Remove debris and dust with a dry brush or vacuum cleaner.
  • Wet the surface with plenty of water.
  • Add broken brick or crushed stone to a standard cement-sand mortar.
  • Use the resulting mixture to seal the fallen piece of the wall, let the solution sit and dry.
  • If necessary, we plaster the surface of the entire wall or locally a section of the hole, then dry it and repair the cracks.
  • Now you can start finishing.

Cement mortar should be applied in thin layers, allowing them to dry thoroughly. A thick layer is guaranteed to crack or fall off.

What to do with large holes in the wall?

After careless dismantling of pipes, large holes remain in the walls. To restore the integrity of the surface, you will first have to fill the main part of the breach with brick. We widen the hole to make the masonry even. Then on building mixture lay out the brick as the main patch. We carry out further manipulations according to the algorithm described above.

Repairing holes in drywall

Carefully remove a small piece of old wallpaper around the hole. Using a knife, apply plaster diluted with water onto the wet surface. Glue a new piece of wallpaper on top of it. You can also stick a decorative applique on the damaged surface.

If the gypsum board is damaged by a “fallen” cabinet, the repair algorithm will be as follows:

  1. Draw a square or rectangle around the hole with a pencil, capturing the cracked surface.
  2. Use a hacksaw to cut out a hole along the marked lines.
  3. From the wrong side, we attach two parallel bars to the drywall with screws, on which the patch will be held. Depending on the size, the number of tires increases. Can be used as a frame wooden slats, durable plastic, metal profile.
  4. We transfer the outline of the cut piece onto a new sheet of drywall and cut it out as accurately as possible.
  5. We attach the patch to the slats previously screwed to the wall, driving the screws so that the caps do not protrude above the surface of the sheet.
  6. We seal the seams with gypsum putty.
  7. We remove irregularities with sandpaper.
  8. We carry out further priming either in the area of ​​the former hole or on the entire surface of the wall.

There are times when the damaged area is too large. In this case, we calculate what is cheaper and easier - to repair a piece or replace the entire sheet.

If plasterboard wall not broken through, but only slightly dented and cracked, there is another way to seal the surface: stick it on the damaged area, and then rub it with a repair compound. After drying, smooth the surface using sandpaper.