Band saws are a powerful, reliable tool used in construction for cutting various materials. To avoid problems during operation, it is necessary to carefully select equipment and take into account the technical characteristics. First of all, you need to find out for what purposes this or that type of saw is intended, familiarize yourself with the parameters of the teeth, the size of the blade, and the quality of sharpening of the cutting element.

Types of Band Saws

The band saw tool can process:

  • stone,
  • tree,
  • metal,
  • synthetic material.

For hard materials, it is recommended to use equipment reinforced with super-strong alloys: the cutting tape will not tear and damage the workpiece. Before purchasing, determine the scope of work that is planned to be performed using the installation.

Large volumes of work require a powerful, durable saw that can withstand increased loads. Its cost will be high. For a one-time procedure, rare use, cheaper equipment with standard strength characteristics is suitable.

Saw size

The width and length are selected according to the same parameters of the machine. Recommendations for selecting components are in the instructions for the unit.

Additional tips:

  • Wide band saws provide smoother sawing and are more often used for longitudinal cutting.
  • The thinner the workpiece being processed, the higher the likelihood of it being damaged by a thick saw.
  • When performing figured and contour cutting, the width of the cutting element must allow the product to be processed at a given angle. This type of instrument is produced in widths of 14–88 mm. For standard work, the average parameter is 35–40 mm.

Tooth pitch

The distance between the pointed segments of the saw corresponds to the mating part of the unit.

  • Thin sheet material processed with a saw with a large, uniform tooth pitch.
  • A frequent, constant step is suitable for working with large canvases.
  • Variable teeth are designed for cutting natural and synthetic materials with a soft structure. The cutting speed increases because the saw does not clog.

The quality of cutting, the level of vibration during operation, and the wear resistance of the main element depend on the alignment of the teeth. The canvas can have a different profile:

  • Wavy. Used for small workpieces and thin materials.
  • Standard. Characterized by the alternating arrangement of all cutting elements, one segment is placed in the center. Selected for processing bulk workpieces, contour cutting, and installation on vertical type machines.
  • Variable, or group. Contains teeth arranged in pairs. The unit is more expensive: it is more durable, efficient, and has a reduced load on the cutting edge.

Particular attention is paid to the quality of saw sharpening. They check how sharp the cutting segments are, whether the steel from which they are made is homogeneous, and the evenness of the cutting edge line.

You need to find out whether it is possible to re-sharpen the saw and how many update cycles the cutter is provided for.

Drawing of a homemade band saw: 1 - band drive pulley (lower); 2 - base; 3 - band saw; 4 - V-belt A710; 5 - damper; 6 - guide; 7 - carrier rod; 8 - belt drive pulley (upper); 9 - table (s20 plywood); 10 - electric motor AOL-22-2; 11 - belt drive pulleys; 12 - bracket (steel angle 40×40); 13 - nut M12 (2 pcs.); 14 - upper support; 15 - adjusting screw; 16 - slider.

Band saw machine: device and assembly

Band-type wood carpentry machines consist of a work table, which serves as the basis for other elements, and the elements themselves. The design provides for constant circular movement of the blade, supported by two pulleys.

A full-fledged unit with a frame and table top is made if there is a separate room for installation large sizes: the equipment has impressive dimensions. In other cases, a tabletop manual mini-installation is made, which will not be able to unravel whole logs.

bed

The machine frame is a load-bearing element that must support the weight of the entire structure. It is better to make it from a metal profile, but wood will also work. Plywood and chipboard are usually not used; boards 20 mm thick are used. Glue the frame according to the rule of intersection of the fibers of each next layer relative to the previous one. Self-tapping screws are used to strengthen the frame. The structure must be rigid and at the same time elastic in order to act as a damper, dampening jerks of the cutting blade.

Pulley block

The upper pulley block does not hold the blade in tension when moving vertically. Hardwood is required to make the frame. On the inside of the frame there is a wooden insert to which the wheel shaft is mounted. The tilt of the axis is adjusted using a threaded rod and nuts mounted in the wood.

The vertical stroke is carried out along guides fixed in the upper part of the frame and is ensured by a screw mechanism. For reinforcement, the adjusting nuts are supplemented with washers or welded. When recessing the shaft, a flange is provided, due to which it will be fixed from the rear side.

Pulleys

Wheels about 30 mm thick are glued together in several layers of plywood circles, after which a hole for the bearing is formed in them. To make the sawmill stable, the bearing is fixed in the coupling. A washer is put on the shaft on the inside, and a flange is secured on the outside. So that the tape can self-center, the wheels are given a barrel shape and the treated surface is covered with a bicycle inner tube.

When installing the bearing, it is necessary to ensure that the shaft is perpendicular, otherwise the wheel will hit the plane during operation. As a result, the cutting blade may slip out of its seat. A drive pulley is attached to the lower wheel.

Tabletop

The tabletop is located on a pedestal base, inside of which a motor with a trigger mechanism is placed. The table is usually made from a sheet of thick plywood; the working side is covered with textolite.. To make it more convenient to cut at a given angle, the tabletop is made rotating. A parallel stop is also provided; for this purpose, roller guides or a profile with clamps are used.

Setting up the saw

First, ensure that the wheels are placed parallel to each other. PTFE washers strung on the shafts are used against vertical displacement. A test run of the system is carried out without guides, a test cut - without load. The correct setting of the saw is evidenced by the smooth movement of the wheels without sudden jerks that cause the belt to slip.

After debugging, the tape guide block is installed. It consists of two halves installed along the line of the cutting element.

The video shows how to assemble a band saw yourself.

A wood band saw has greater operational capabilities than a conventional hand saw. This unit can be useful when carrying out carpentry work, at woodworking enterprises and sawmills. The choice of saw should be made based on your requirements and capabilities.

Manufacturers such as Bukhta, Corvette, Metabo offer a wide range of band saws, the blades of which are capable of working effectively on wood and allow the craftsman to achieve excellent woodworking performance with his own hands.

The selection is made based on several criteria:

  • Scope of work performed and frequency of implementation;
  • Functions, tasks that will be performed band saw on wood;
  • Characteristics of teeth;
  • Canvas dimensions;
  • Sharpening level and setting;
  • Manufacturer.

Vertical installation of the Corvette, devices from Metabo have a number of advantages over homemade devices. Corvette with Metabo are among the leaders of the domestic market.

The choice largely depends on what material you have to work with. Metal work requires the use of an appropriate blade.

Working with metal involves using bimetallic blades. Bimetal cutting tools are excellent on medium and low carbon steels. It is possible to use bimetallic blades for woodworking, but it is better to equip the Corvette saw with a specialized cutting component.

Selection by scope of work

  1. For industrial purposes, where the work of the saw practically does not stop, the choice should be made in favor of powerful, productive models about Metabo, Corvette, Bay. Such saws have highly efficient blades, and the devices have excellent strength parameters.
  2. For do-it-yourself work in a domestic environment, in a small workshop, the choice leans toward simple Corvette and Metabo models, which are characterized by medium strength, but are capable of providing the required quality of do-it-yourself processing.

Canvases

The choice of blade should be made based on its length, width, performance characteristics of the Corvette, Metabo saw itself, etc. It is important to compare the parameters of the equipment and the cutting tool installed on it.

If you cannot find the information you need in the instructions, take into account a few key points.

  • Thin canvases quickly deform if work is done with coarse products;
  • Wide blades provide an even cut. The wider the canvas, the better the quality of the work;
  • Thick blades are not suitable for working with thin workpieces. There is a great risk of damage;
  • To perform figured cutting or contour processing, you need to compare the width of the cutting tool and its ability to enter the material at a certain angle.


Teeth

There are recommendations regarding the teeth of the selected band saw blade.

  1. A large number of blade teeth ensures high-quality cutting of thick-walled workpieces.
  2. Blades with a small number of teeth minimize the load that affects the entire area of ​​the sawn blade.
  3. Tools with multiple edges help distribute stress evenly throughout the band saw.
  4. Modern manufacturers produce blades, the number of teeth on which varies between 3-24 units.
  5. The large teeth of the blade are designed for deep cuts.
  6. If the edges of the blade are small, they can effectively saw thin-walled products.
  7. An equally important parameter for choosing a belt is the pitch of the teeth.
  8. A large step is relevant when processing thin sheet products of small formats.
  9. Frequent steps allow the belt to cut through large pieces.
  10. Variable pitch is designed for working with soft materials.

Sharpening

Bimetallic, woodworking bandsaw blades need to be checked for sharpening quality. Proper sharpening is checked based on three parameters.

  1. Sharpness of teeth. The better the sharpening, the sharper they will be. You just shouldn’t check the sharpening level with your own hands.
  2. Homogeneity of woodworking material. If there are no blurs on the tape, the metal is homogeneous, then the sharpening should be of high quality.
  3. Uniformity of lines, correct angle. If the edges are sharpened well, but the angle between the cutting edges is broken, this will significantly spoil the quality of the product. The angle between the cutting edges must correspond technical specifications selected tape. Each of them is characterized by a certain angle and sharpening features.

Before purchasing a saw for DIY work, be sure to ask whether it is possible to sharpen the tool if it wears out with use. For most modern band saws, sharpening is a routine task. The instructions are not complicated, which allows you to do the sharpening yourself and get the correct angle.

But some saws have a strict angle, a clear angle between the cutting edges, if violated, the saw will no longer be able to return to its original operational capabilities.

Wiring

Setting is bending the cutting blade at a certain angle in different directions. Due to this, the level of friction is reduced and jamming of the blade is prevented.

There are several types of wiring.

  1. Standard. The standard set-up provides for an opposite bend at an angle of the cutting elements on different sides. This wiring is relevant for saws working with hard materials.
  2. Wavy layout. This is a complex design. Here divorce is characterized by variable meaning. The peculiarity is the formation of a kind of wave. Not the entire saw blade is bent to a certain angle, but some part of the top of the blade.
  3. The protective wiring consists of bending two cutting blades. The third remains in its place. A spread is used for belts that work with the hardest materials. Every third tooth has a trapezoid shape.

The setting is carried out so that the teeth have a deviation not exceeding 0.1 millimeters. If the alignment is not done, the saw will be positioned unevenly, which will negatively affect the performance of the band saw.

Homemade or factory

It’s not uncommon for craftsmen to think about making a homemade tape machine. Drawings are widely available on the Internet; reviews indicate the possibility of assembling the device with your own hands.

But a drawing alone will not allow you to assemble a band saw correctly. Homemade vertical installation has whole line features that only an experienced specialist can master.

It is recommended to start with mini band saws, the assembly of which requires a fairly simple drawing. You can repair, modernize, and sharpen them with your own hands. cutting tools. Take as a basis a detailed drawing indicating all the required assembly parameters. Having made a mini machine, you can gradually move on to more serious units.

Factory models are preferable due to the availability of such manufacturers as Metabo, Corvette. Corvette and Metabo companies offer a wide range of band saws, from mini to industrial. It is easier, safer and more convenient to work with them yourself.

If repairs are required, you can contact a service center, or perform the repair yourself according to the factory instructions.

Factory-made band looms are preferable to homemade ones. They win in almost all respects. The exception is the price. The estimated cost of a band saw made by Metabo, Corvette is from 20 thousand rubles.

A band saw is a mechanism used for cutting ferrous and non-ferrous metals and wood. This device is cutting machine and is used for cutting material. High-quality consumables allow you to achieve flawless cutting and high precision processing of workpieces.

Why do you need a band saw machine?

Industrial bandsaw machine KRATON

Band saws are used for straight and curved cutting. metal sheets, profiles, pipes, wood, plastic. There are both household models for the home and industrial ones for small workshops with automatic start, vertical or horizontal table position. Band machines allow you to increase labor productivity, achieve acceptable cutting accuracy, adjust the cutting angle and process workpieces in batches on the stream.

Design and principle of operation

The classic design of the machine consists of:

  • beds;
  • desktop;
  • web holder support mechanism;
  • workpiece feeding and loading systems;
  • control systems;
  • drive mechanisms;
  • housings.

The workpieces are sawn using a strip blade, which is a closed loop. The blade, supported by two pulleys, makes a continuous circular motion. Different types machines allow you to perform work at an angle, the magnitude of which is adjustable. The band blade moves at high speed and creates an even cut.

The cutting speed must be stable in order to maintain the accuracy of cutting the material, so the power of the power plant that puts the machine into operation reaches up to 11 kW.

Homemade machine bed

At self-production The machine starts with a bed, which can be made of wood or metal. The dimensions are selected in such a way that it is easy to process the desired material in place. A well-designed machine can cut wood up to 35 cm thick and metal up to 2-3 cm thick.

Pulleys and supports for them

The main elements of a band saw are pulleys, which are wheels on which the tape cloth. They are attached to a frame or to a bar that is mounted to the table. A belt drive is connected to the bottom circle or the motor is directly connected. To dampen vibrations of the tape, a damper is used, placing it under the tabletop.

Tabletop

The dimensions of the saw table are selected individually, because the small size will save space, and a wider table will make work more convenient. Installed on the end face of the machine base between the pulleys. In order for the saw blade to move freely, a cut is made in the table.

Guides

To ensure that materials are cut smoothly and accurately, a guide mechanism is installed. It is attached to the blade on the side free from teeth. The guides allow the tape not to bend during operation. The simplest option can be made from 3 roller bearings: 2 of them are installed on the sides of the saw blade and 1 on the blunt side.

How to make a band saw machine with your own hands

To make a metal band saw with your own hands, you can take some parts left over from decommissioned machines, buy the missing components and assemblies, or even make them yourself. The cost of the manufactured machine will be half the price of the purchased ato and more. At the same time, the level of performance and accuracy of adjustments of these two devices will not differ.

The materials we will need are:

  • boards or plywood 15 mm thick;
  • PVA wood glue;
  • hairpin height 150-170 mm (diameter - 5 mm);
  • saw blade (length - 1065 mm, for example, for Proxxon MBS 240);
  • a drill or screwdriver that will serve as a motor;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • electrical tape and inner tube from a small wheel;
  • clamping wing screws;
  • bolts, nuts (including driven ones), washers;
  • steel corners 40×40;
  • bearings (internal diameter from 5 mm).

To assemble the machine you need to acquire the following tools:

  • screwdriver;
  • Bulgarian;
  • wrench;
  • hammer;
  • clamps;
  • jigsaw or router.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions with photos, drawings and dimensions

Let's start making the device. We follow the algorithm:

1. To create a machine we need a drawing. You can find it on the Internet or use the one below.




2. Before you start assembling the structure, you need to make/find a table or cabinet on which the device will be fixed. You can build this structure yourself from metal or wood. The size of the tabletop must be at least 500 mm x 500 mm. We select the height depending on the height and position of the master when working.

3. It is necessary to cut out the frame, which is the main supporting element that serves to secure the pulleys, table and tensioner. The bed will be glued together from 4 sawn blanks with the following dimensions:



4. We equip the two central boards with a rectangular recess in which the tension and stabilization element will be located. A groove is cut into the side ones (width - 5-6 mm, length - 50 mm), it should be located in the center of the rectangular cutout as in the photo above.

5. We glue the four parts together with wood glue: first the central parts, then the side ones (with grooves) on top. To connect, we fasten the layers with clamps and wait at least a day until they dry.

We will tension and adjust the saw blade using a wooden rectangle 65 mm high. A minimum of 4 cm must be left to the upper edge of the support. The opening for the beam was cut out in advance. It should be easy to insert it into the opening, but with minimal play.

6. To create a tension mechanism, you need to drill a hole in the top of the block exactly in the center. We make a through hole at one edge of the threaded rod (diameter - 2 mm). We will insert a self-tapping screw into it for fixation.

7. To accurately hit the pin, place it in the hole until it stops and wrap the edge with electrical tape. Then we apply it to the outside of the block and put a mark at ⅓ of its length. We drill a hole of 1-2 mm. We insert the pin into the center of the block, and screw in a self-tapping screw on the side, this will help fix the element.



8. We make a cover (see diagram of the tape tension mechanism) for the top of the frame from wood. We drill a hole in it to place the pin and secure it on top with a wing screw.

9. The next stage is pulleys with a diameter of 150 mm. Cut out even circles with a jigsaw or milling machine from plywood or boards 15 mm thick. The cutter allows you to make smoother circles, but if necessary, they can be processed with sandpaper.

10. To ensure that the saw blade is securely fixed, we glue the rim of the pulleys with electrical tape. We pull the tubes from the small wheels on top.



11. We make holes in the frame for installing pulleys. We make the hole for the bottom exactly under the groove. We make shallow grooves around the hole on both sides and place bearings in them. We place the tension element, drill a hole through the groove to secure the pulleys and insert bearings into it.


12. The pulleys are installed on the same vertical line in the holes made. They are put on the axles and covered with bushings on both sides of the circles.

13. The inclination of the upper pulley can be adjusted using a screw that we will thread into the tensioner. To create threaded connection, place the driving nut at the very bottom of the upper groove on the side where the pulleys are not located.

When a strong tension is established, due to which the pulley will tilt, the latter is easily aligned with a few turns of the screw.

14. We install and tighten the saw band, connect the screwdriver, clamping the lower pin into the chuck. Then we check whether all elements work.



15. If the mechanism works without delay, install the table. The surface is cut from a board, its size depends on the preferences of the master. We fix the table using corners.

You should not glue the table and frame together, this will prevent changes to the machine and its disassembly.

After assembly, the band saw for wood and metal should be prepared for use. To do this, we check the correct operation of the device, adjust the cutting tape, which should be located at a right angle and be as tight as possible. Even the slightest misalignment can cause problems with the device.

Making a saw yourself is a painstaking and complex, but completely doable task. The easiest way is homemade band-saw going to wooden frame– you don’t have to cook anything, but carpentry tool Almost everyone has one.

For the frame, it is better to choose strong and solid wood, otherwise the structure will be unreliable and will vibrate. Some elements, such as a desktop, can be made of plywood, and the ribs are edged with slats for rigidity. The cheapest option is to disassemble old furniture, putting plywood on the pulleys and table. A maple beam is suitable for the supporting rod.

First of all, you need to decide on the drawings, according to which the frame will be assembled in the future. So, the size of the band saw itself will depend on the height of the working room. It is necessary to think in advance about the convenient height of the table, the length of the rod and the diameter of the pulleys. The drawings can be either conditional, reflecting only general dimensions, or detailed, as in the photo.

Installation of rod and pulley supports

The simplest do-it-yourself band saw is on a wooden C-shaped frame, where the support rod is made of timber at least 8x8 cm thick, to which two supports are attached to one (relatively rear) part.

The pulleys will be held on them. It is better to make such supports from strong material; multilayer plywood with a durable core is acceptable.

The distance between the supports must be selected so that the logs needed for sawing fit there. In any case, it is recommended to make the distance “with a margin” so that there are no problems in the future.

Assembling the desktop

The height of the table should be comfortable for working on it, and at the same time accommodate the lower pulley and drive pulley, the motor and a large amount of chips. The shape itself can be anything, but it is often made in the form of a closed cabinet that serves as a container for sawdust.

It is advisable to provide a simple way to open the table and a waste tray - this will make cleaning the saw much more convenient.

Cutting pulleys and attaching them to supports

The diameter of the belt drive pulleys can be chosen arbitrarily, but the larger the pulley, the longer and better the saw works. In this case, you need to select the blades correctly, the ideal ratio is 1/1000 of the blade to the pulley diameter. Thus, for forty-centimeter pulleys, the tape should be 4 mm. But with proper operation, even on narrow pulleys you can safely work with 6 mm blades.

The diameter of the belt drive pulley must be selected depending on the diameter of the main pulleys, belt length and engine speed.

1. Calculate the circumference of the saw pulley: D = 3.14 * pulley diameter.
2. On average, the speed of the web should be 30 m/sec.
3. The number of revolutions is determined: O = 30/D;
4. The ratio (C) of the motor revolutions (RM) to the revolutions of the belt drive pulley is calculated: C = RM/R;
5. Drive pulley diameter = D/S.

The diameter is chosen one or two sizes smaller than the pulley. This rubber cover prevents the fabric from slipping.

The upper pulley is mounted on a movable block, which must move horizontally, providing belt tension.

For this purpose, a special lifting mechanism. The simplest option is a beam located under the block and attached to the lever with a very tight spring. By pressing the lever, the beam raises the block with the pulley, providing the required tension.

It is necessary to provide a way to secure the lever in a given position, for example, with several bolts located at different levels. The spring will provide the necessary pressure and at the same time will relieve tension, preventing the tape from breaking.

It is important to properly balance the upper and lower pulleys in the same plane, minimizing the “eights” when the wheels move.

To attach the upper pulley, it is convenient to use self-aligning bearings, which will allow you to quickly remove and put on the wheels.

But they need to be attached to the pulleys as tightly as possible, otherwise the bearings will become loose very quickly. After securing the wheels to the frame, you should test run the saw, using maximum caution.

Installation of blade guides

To ensure that a band saw on wood makes an even cut and the blade is not “pressed” by the wood being cut, guides are mounted along the blunt end of the saw on a narrow beam.

The simplest option is to screw three roller bearings to the beam. The flat side of the canvas rests on one, the other two hold the tape tightly on the sides.

It is imperative that the guides are perfectly aligned at the attachment point on the support, otherwise even a microscopic vertical deviation can result in 3 mm at the opposite end. It is best to mark the position of the beam with the canvas stretched to its maximum and the guides already installed. This guarantees their exact position relative to the saw blade.

Instead of two bearings on the sides, you can make wooden stops. It would also be a good idea to install additional guides under the tabletop, and not just on top.

It should be taken into account that the guides should be as close to the workpiece as possible, ideally at a distance of 3-4 cm from the log. Therefore, if you plan to saw workpieces of different thicknesses, it makes sense to adjust the height of the guides.

Final finishing

This is not so much for aesthetic purposes as it is for safety - even if the tape slips off the pulley, it will remain in the casing.

It is better to take the belt drive out from under the table so that sawdust does not fall on it. To protect the engine, it is also recommended to install a casing to prevent the penetration of dust and other particles.

Final treatment of the wood with varnish or paint will not only extend its service life, but also protect your hands from unpleasant rolling pins and splinters of untreated wood. First, all surfaces must be sanded and treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting.

The video provides an overview of a homemade wooden saw and explains the advantages of this solution:

Rotation to the drive shaft of the tape machine is transmitted from an electric motor, which is connected to it via a belt drive. The speed of movement of the belt mechanism can be adjusted, thereby changing the processing modes of parts. Tape flat grinding machine can be positioned horizontally or vertically, as well as at a certain angle, which is allowed by some equipment models in this category.

When choosing a belt sanding machine model for processing a particular part, it is important to consider the length of the surface that needs to be sanded. It is much more convenient to process parts on such machines whose surface length is shorter than the length of the abrasive belt and work table. If such conditions are met, the quality of processing will be much higher.

The belt grinding machine can have different designs: with a movable and fixed work table, with a free belt. TO separate category refers to wide-belt equipment, the peculiarity of which is that their work table, which is also a feed element, is made in the shape of a caterpillar. In those equipment models that have a work table in their design, the abrasive belt is located in a horizontal plane, and in equipment with a free belt that does not have a work table, it can have a different spatial position.

A mandatory structural element of any belt sanding machine, including tabletop ones, is an exhaust device, which is necessary to remove dust, in large quantities formed during processing. Both a professional and any homemade grinding machine used in a home workshop or garage are powered by an electric motor.

Principle of operation

The main operating parameters of a belt sanding machine include the feed speed and the force with which the belt is pressed against the workpiece. Parameters such as the degree of grain size of the abrasive belt should be selected depending on the material from which the workpiece is made, as well as the degree of roughness that the surface of the machined product should have.

The characteristics of the material being processed, in particular its hardness, primarily influence the grit size of the abrasive belt to be selected. Processing modes that are directly related to each other are feed speed and tape clamping force. So, if grinding is carried out at high speed, but with insignificant pressing force of the abrasive belt, then some areas of the surface of the part may turn out to be untreated. If, on the contrary, you increase the clamping force and reduce the feed speed, you may encounter the fact that burns and blackening of the material may appear in certain areas of the surface being processed.

Another variation of the machine - side view work surface ribbons

The results of grinding are also influenced by how well the abrasive tape is glued together. In order to obtain high quality processing and not encounter malfunctions in the operation of the belt machine, you should not use abrasive belts that are glued incorrectly or have torn edges. When putting the tape on the equipment shafts, it should be positioned so that the overlapping end of the seam does not ride up against the surface of the workpiece, but slides along it. Learn more about gluing tape in the video below.

Any, including a manual grinding machine, must provide the ability to adjust the belt tension, which is ensured by moving a movable shaft that is not driven. Tape tension is a very important parameter, when choosing which you should follow the “golden mean” rule. If the sanding machine belt is pulled too tightly, this can lead to its rupture during operation, and if its tension is too weak, it will cause slippage and, as a result, excessive heating. The main characteristic for determining the degree of tension of the tape is its deflection, which is measured by lightly pressing on its surface in a tense state.

A manual belt grinding machine can be serviced by one operator, who moves the work table with the workpiece and rotates it so as to bring all areas of its surface under the abrasive belt.

How to make a belt sander

Many home craftsmen and professionals are wondering how to make a grinding machine with their own hands. The reason for this question is quite simple: the high cost of serial grinding equipment, which not everyone can pay off if not used regularly. In order to make such equipment, you will need several main components: an electric motor, rollers and a reliable frame. Naturally, drawings of such a device or a photo of it would not be superfluous. Also at the end of the article you can watch videos on assembling a tape machine on your own.

The motor for belt grinding equipment is not difficult to find; it can be removed from an old one. washing machine. You will have to make the frame yourself; for this you can use a sheet of metal with dimensions 500x180x20 mm. One side of the frame should be cut very evenly, since it will be necessary to attach the platform on which the electric motor will be mounted to it. The platform for the electric motor should also be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions 180x160x10 mm. Such a platform must be secured to the frame very securely using several bolts.

Another version of the bed

The efficiency of a belt sanding machine directly depends on the characteristics of the electric motor that is installed on it. If you are planning to make a grinding machine with your own hands, then an electric motor with a power of 2.5–3 kW, developing about 1500 rpm, is quite suitable for you. In order for the sanding belt to move at a speed of 20 m/s when using such a motor, the drums must have a diameter of about 200 mm. What’s convenient is that if you choose an engine with these characteristics, you won’t need to make a gearbox for your grinding machine.

The drive shaft is connected directly to the electric motor shaft, and the second - driven - must rotate freely on an axis, which is installed in bearing units. In order for the abrasive belt to touch the surface of the workpiece more smoothly, the section of the frame on which the driven shaft is installed should be made with a slight bevel.

You can make shafts for a belt sanding machine from a chipboard with minimal financial costs. Simply cut square blanks of 200x200 mm in size from such a plate, drill central holes in them and place them on the axle with a package with a total thickness of 240 mm. After this, all you have to do is grind the resulting package and make it into a round shaft with a diameter of about 200 mm.

Drawings and detailed analysis some parts of a machine made of wood.

Wood belt sander (click to enlarge)

Table tilt adjustment mechanism Plate block Belt tensioner