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In August 2016, the commercial and industrial group of companies "Taypit", which is the owner of the trademark Powerman, announced a new series of uninterruptible power supplies on the Russian market Brick.
The main feature of the series is clear from the name: the shape of the sources resembles a brick lying on a wide edge. This, of course, is not very good from the point of view of the space it takes up - UPSs in tower (vertical) type cases are more compact in this regard, but this form provides more convenience for quickly connecting or disconnecting various equipment, and there is more space for placing sockets.
The devices are intended for individual use and allow you to connect not only computers, providing them with uninterrupted power in the event of a loss or critical change in voltage in the external power supply network, but also other office devices that may be located in the workplace, including laser printers (which are usually strongly discouraged connect to uninterruptible power supplies) - for them the Brick UPS will play the role of a surge protector. Accordingly, there are two groups of sockets for different types of connected devices.
However, you still won’t be able to connect any loads, including high-performance laser printers: the protection may trip.
Currently the series includes two models: Powerman Brick 600 with a power of 600 VA/360 W, as well as Powerman Brick 800 with a power of 800 VA/480 W, which is what we got.
Characteristics, features
The main declared parameters are shown in the table:
| Powerman Brick 800 UPS Specifications | |
| Mains voltage without switching to battery operation | 220 V ±25% |
| Input voltage frequency | 50 ±10% |
| Output voltage when operating from mains and battery | 220 V ±10% |
| Output voltage frequency when operating from mains/battery | equal to mains frequency / 50 ±2% |
| Output waveform when running on battery | Modified sine wave |
| output power | 800 VA (480 W) |
| Mains-battery switching time | 2–4 ms |
| Battery life | 3–25 minutes (depending on load) |
| Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) | Yes, one step for promotion and reduction |
| Function to start equipment without connecting to the mains | There is (instructions do not recommend use) |
| Battery type, voltage and capacity | 1 × 12 V, 9 Ah |
| Maximum charge current | n/a |
| Typical charge time | 6–8 hours up to 90% |
| Indication | LED indicators: Network, Battery, Error |
| Sound alarm | yes, non-switchable |
| Pulse noise filtering | There is |
| Overload protection | Load disconnection when power is exceeded by 30% when operating from the network and by 10% when operating from battery |
| Output connectors | Uninterruptible power supply: 3 Schuko sockets Filter: 3 Schuko sockets |
| Interface for monitoring and control | No |
| Data line protection | universal RJ11/RJ45 (input and output) |
| Dimensions (W×D×H) | 202×293×93 mm |
| Net/gross weight | 5.2 / 5.8 kg |
| Noise | |
| Working conditions | humidity 0–95% (non-condensing) temperature from 0 to +40 °C |
| Standard Warranty | 2 years |
| Description on the manufacturer's website | |
| average price | T-14158155 |
| Retail offers | L-14158155-6 |
The official descriptions for the Brick UPS list the following features:
- modified sine wave (step approximation) at the output when operating on batteries;
- the presence of an AVR based on an autotransformer that provides stepwise adjustment of the output voltage when changes in the input network within certain limits;
- the presence of two groups of sockets, one of which is provided only with filtering, and the second also has an AVR with battery support;
- Availability of protection against overload, voltage surges and impulse noise.
There is no mention of any functions similar to Green Power in UPSs from other manufacturers, so we can hope that the Brick series sources will work normally even with low loads. Nothing is said about compatibility with loads whose power supplies have active power factor correction (Active PFC). We will have to clarify all this during testing.
But regarding the cold start, that is, the possibility of turning on the power supply to the load from the batteries in the absence of an external network, there is information, although contradictory: on the one hand, it is said that such a mode exists, but on the other hand, that it is abnormal and should not be used recommended.
Appearance, equipment
We have already briefly outlined the appearance above, now let’s move on to the details.
The body is entirely plastic, black. Only the white company logo stands out on it, and on the back there is a sticker indicating the model, serial number and main parameters.
Let us note right away: when the power is turned on, the case heats up even without connecting a load, and soon a smell appears - weak, but over the course of a working day it begins to be felt throughout the room. Of course, the smell is not very unpleasant, and after half an hour you stop paying attention to the extra “aroma”, but still I would like to hope that this is a property of the new device, and over time the smell will disappear completely.
On the upper plane of the source there are two groups of three sockets, the purpose of which is marked with inscriptions in Russian: on the right (if you focus on the logo) “UPS”, on the left “Surge Protector”.
Schuko sockets with two side flat protective grounding contacts are used, which we often call “Euro sockets”. They allow you to connect loads (computers and other equipment) using their standard cables or external power supplies with a built-in plug, which is very convenient. True, the sockets in the groups are located almost closely, and any large power supply can simply block the adjacent socket, but even in this case, there are enough sockets to service one workplace, and the UPS is not designed for a larger one.
The instructions sometimes use not very good wording. Thus, the ban on connecting laser printers and devices with a low-frequency transformer at the input sounds like “ Never connect printers to a UPS... ...”, but, judging by the circuit design, this should not apply to all sockets, but only to those three that are marked “UPS”. For those marked as “Surge protector”, only the limit values should be taken into account, which we will clarify when describing the overload capacity.
The middle part of the top cover, located between the groups of sockets, is slightly raised; In the middle there is a single button that turns the device on and off. In front of it is a group of three LED indicators: green “Network”, yellow “Battery” and red “Fault”.
There are ventilation slots on the front and rear edges of the top cover protrusion that extend onto the sides. There are the same slots on the sides, right and left. On the right side there are two universal RJ11/RJ45 sockets, designed to protect low-current lines (telephone or LAN) from impulse noise.
At the rear end of the case there is a C14 pin socket (IEC60320), to which a standard three-wire power cord for external power is connected. It is equipped with a 10 A fuse (the rating is indicated on the sticker nearby), which can be changed from the outside, without opening the case.
The lower plane is equipped with legs - low plastic protrusions without shock-absorbing inserts. The two rear ones have shaped slots that allow you to hang the UPS on a vertical surface to save space on your desktop.
In the front part of the bottom there is a hatch that closes the battery compartment and allows you to replace it without opening the case.
There are no interface connectors for communication with a computer, USB or RS232: remote monitoring and control are not provided. Of course, this will not allow the OS installed on the computer connected to the source to automatically shut down until the battery charge is exhausted, but it does reduce the price of the product. If such a function is important, you will have to choose a UPS of another model - for example, the Powerman Back Pro 800 Plus, equipped with a USB interface and equipped with Upsilon software. By the way, it is made in a compact vertical case, and on its back wall we managed to place only two Schuko sockets.
Contents: in addition to the source itself, we received a user manual in Russian, a warranty card, a power cable and a meter patch cord for LAN, which is not mentioned in official materials.
All this is delivered in a well-designed box, on one side of which there is a photograph of the UPS, on the other - a list of characteristics in Russian. The packaging is common for both models in the series, and the type of source is specified using a sticker on the top cover of the box (the same as on the back wall of the device itself).
To disassemble the UPS, it is enough to remove four self-tapping screws in the wells on the bottom, after which the upper and lower halves of the case are easily separated. The length of the wires connecting the sockets and other components installed on the upper half is quite enough to tilt this part of the case to the side.
Inside, a fenced off battery compartment, a board with electronic components and an autotransformer are clearly visible. Another board, very small, contains elements for protecting low-current lines - diodes and varistors.
The protection circuit against impulse noise and overvoltage is made of a high-voltage capacitor and one varistor. There is a noticeable marking on the board and inductors, but they are not soldered and replaced with a jumper. The line of “UPS” sockets is additionally shunted by another capacitor.
The converter is made using IRLB8314 transistors, intended for use in inverters and UPSs. They are mounted on a small radiator - an aluminum block; more is not required: under heavy loads, the operating time will be measured in minutes, or even tens of seconds, and the transistors simply will not have time to heat up very much, and at low loads, the power they dissipate will not be so great.
In the control circuits on the board, the KA3843 PWM controller and the LM324L quad op-amp are noticeable.
The line going to the battery is protected by a 40 A fuse link. It is soldered to the board, and it cannot be replaced without the help of a soldering iron.
Switching is carried out using Golden GH-1A-12L and GH-1C-12L relays, designed for a current of up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. The difference between 1A and 1C is in the operating logic: the former work to close the contact, and the latter to switch.
On the top cover, in addition to the sockets, there are two small boards on which the button and LEDs are soldered.
Battery
Our copy uses a battery labeled Powerman CA 1290 12V 9AH.
As you can see in one of the above photos, from the inside the battery compartment is completely fenced off from the rest of the volume, and for removing the battery there is a cover secured with two screws on the bottom of the case. The documentation does not say anything about the possibility of hot swapping - for a UPS of this class this can hardly be called a necessary function: it is quite possible to select the time to turn off the loads, and it is much more convenient to remove the old battery and install a new one if numerous wires are not connected to the source.
Charge
At the initial moment, the charging current is quite normal for this type of battery - 0.9–1.0 A: a charging current of about 0.1 C is considered safe for batteries of this type. And the scheme is also usual: first, a fairly quick but slight decrease in current, then a long, several hours, stabilization at the level of 0.75–0.85 A, an hour and a half before the end of the process, a decrease again (the duration of the stages will depend on the degree of discharge batteries).
Moreover, it should be noted that it is not at all necessary to turn on the UPS with a button - it is enough that it is connected to an external power supply network. For some reason this is not mentioned in the available materials.
We recorded the termination of charging when the current decreased to less than 100 mA. As has been said more than once in UPS reviews, the charging time is not a constant value, since the depth of discharge depends on the load - low currents discharge the battery more strongly than large ones. The stated time of 6–8 hours for charging up to 90% can be considered real in any case, and eight hours will most likely be enough to charge not even 90 percent, but one hundred percent.
For reference, we still present the result of our measurement: after discharging to a load of 100 W, during subsequent charging, the current in the first hour decreased from the initial 1.0 A to 0.8–0.9 A, then for about 3.5 hours it did not drop below 0 .8 A, but then began to decrease quickly: within half an hour to 0.2–0.3 A, over the next half hour and completely to a level of less than 0.1 A. That is. It can be assumed that the full charge time did not exceed 6 hours.
Test results
Temperature, noise, own consumption
The main heating source is the autotransformer of the AVR system. Even in the absence of a load and with only the battery charging current, and even then at the last stage, its core gets very hot: the temperature can reach 62–63 °C - it doesn’t burn yet, but it’s better not to touch it with your hand.
There is no forced cooling in the case. From the point of view of noise, this is, of course, a good thing: there is simply nothing to make noise - the transformer can only hum a little (and even then under noticeable loads), and in case of problems with the external power supply, relays click and warning signals sound, which cannot be turned off.
Accordingly, the maximum noise we recorded did not exceed 33 dBA from a distance of 0.5 m (imitation of a tabletop location) and 31 dBA from a distance of 1 m (placement on the floor). The measurements were taken in a quiet office space, where all other equipment was turned off and the background noise level was below 30 dBA. During actual operation, of course, such noise will simply be masked, and if the consumption of devices connected to the UPS is significantly lower than the maximum, then under normal conditions in the supply network it can be called completely silent.
There are ventilation slots in the top cover above the transformer. Of course, such significant heating of the transformer cannot but affect the outside: in this place the housing heats up 22-23 degrees above the room temperature, that is, noticeably, but no longer hot. In addition, the transformer and the board with electronics are spaced apart in the internal volume of the case and do not heat each other - we have encountered examples of the opposite in UPSs with vertical cases.
By the way, if the UPS is turned off with a button, and the batteries have been charged for a long time, then the temperature of both the transformer and the housing cover above it is only 2-3 degrees lower.
The heating of the radiator of the converter transistors during operation from batteries at a load of 200 W did not exceed 23–24 °C relative to the initial state. The measurements were taken with the top cover open, but there is every reason to believe that even in a closed case the temperature would not be significantly higher.
A little about its own consumption: when the UPS is turned off with a button and the battery is charged (the current in its circuit is less than 0.1 A), then 16-17 W are consumed from the external network. If you turn on the button to apply voltage to the output connectors (but without a load), the consumption will increase by a couple of watts.
Autonomous operation
Let's move on to testing autonomous operation with different loads.
Here are the results in graph form:
More precise values are given in the table.
As usual, our comments and observations.
The shape of the output signal changes slightly all the time, and the voltage measured by the TrueRMS voltmeter changes accordingly, but remains within the stated limits. So, at 50 W, the initial deviations are in the range from 220 to 223 V, but as the battery discharges, the average output voltage decreases slightly. At medium and low loads, some time before the shutdown (for 50 W this happened in 16 minutes), the relay clicks and the output voltage jumps by about 5 volts and then continues to decrease; for the specified load, the range for the full battery life is: 217–228 V.
The frequency remains within the stated limits of 50 Hz ±2%.
Below 50 W, we did not accurately measure the time; we limited ourselves to checking for the absence of automatic shutdown: without load, the UPS operated normally from batteries for 20 minutes, and there is no reason to believe that it would have turned off in the future - usually models with a similar energy-saving function turn off much later earlier. That is, this model can work quite well even with very light loads.
Now let’s compare it with the specification, which says autonomous operation for 3–25 minutes depending on the load. Strictly speaking, there is no talk of inconsistency with our results, but it is certainly necessary to clarify the load range - approximately from 100 to 250 W. With smaller loads, the battery life can be significantly longer, but if the connected devices consume more than 400 W (even if not constantly, but at least at the moment the network at the UPS input is lost), then the autonomous operation will last a matter of seconds, and we can only say about protection against the shortest power outages. But this can also often help out.
However, 2-3 minutes may not be enough to complete normal operation of the operating system and turn off the computer, especially taking into account the operator’s reaction time (after all, there is no connection between the UPS and the computer), the need to complete some current actions and save the result. This must be taken into account when choosing an uninterruptible power supply for a specific workplace.
Overload capacity
Of course, the response to overload will be different for the two groups of outlets.
The “Surge filter” group is protected only by a fuse with a rating of 10 A installed at the input, that is, it is quite capable of withstanding long-term loads of up to 2–2.2 kW, and short-term loads (like starting currents of laser printers) and more, since the fuse-link even at currents , significantly exceeding the nominal value, does not work instantly. Of course, you also need to take into account the total size of the loads connected to the “UPS” group of sockets, since the input fuse is common.
Another thing must be remembered: although significant but short-term starting currents of loads may not affect the fuse, both groups of sockets are switched on using relays, the contacts of which can burn out from such currents, which will lead to the appearance of a transition layer on them with significant resistance, and it in turn - to local overheating and relay failure. That is, the choice of loads for connecting to the “Surge Protector” group of sockets is much wider than to the “UPS” group, but it should also be approached wisely.
The approach to loads for the “UPS” group must exactly comply with the requirements of the instructions: no large starting currents, and long-term power consumption should not exceed the limits indicated in the specification.
Let's check the protection for this group. The following is stated: the load is turned off when the power is exceeded by 30% when operating from the network and by 10% when operating from the battery.
As our tests have shown, even with a load exceeding the declared maximum by only 4%-5%, battery life is calculated in a couple of seconds, and here it is difficult to say what type of protection plays a role: from overload or from overdischarge of the batteries. Of course, physically the charge is not exhausted in such a short time even at the currents required for such loads (∼40 A), it’s just that the voltage at the battery terminals quickly drops to a value considered critical by the control circuit. But the influence of the overload protection circuit cannot be completely excluded; one thing can be stated unequivocally: it will not be possible to study the behavior of overload protection in offline mode.
Therefore, we move on to working from the network. An overload of 30% of the stated maximum of 480 W is 624 W; We begin to gradually increase the load, the results are in the table.
That is, there is full compliance with the specification. Note: the test was carried out at an input voltage of 220 V; We did not take measurements when the input voltage was too high or low, including when the AVR was triggered, since this requires a corresponding change in the load so that the power it consumes remains constant. Such studies are labor-intensive, but there is no particular point in them: you still cannot operate the UPS with a load whose value constantly or regularly exceeds the declared maximum.
Automatic output voltage regulation
The series UPSs are equipped with a two-stage AVR system, one stage of which is triggered when the input voltage decreases, and the second when the input voltage increases. Accordingly, one stage is increasing, the second is decreasing.
The instructions specify the operation of the system as follows: when the input voltage changes in the range from 165 to 275 volts, the output voltage is in the range from 195 to 242 volts. Strictly speaking, the current GOST 32144-2013, which we rely on when evaluating a UPS, speaks of a nominal 220 V and deviations of 10%, that is, a range of 198–242 V, but let’s not be too picky. Let's see how things stand.
We used an autotransformer with an output voltage of up to 250–255 V, so the behavior of the UPS beyond this limit was not studied.
First, we present the result in the form of a graph (100 W load):
The red line indicates battery operation.
And for those who like accurate information - a table:
| Input voltage (when reduced from 250 to 0 V) | Output voltage | Operating mode |
| 250–238 V | 212–200 V | from the network with step-down (AVR) |
| 237–200 V | 237–200 V | directly from the network |
| 199–166 V | 232–198 V | from the network with boost (AVR) |
| 165 V or less | 217 V | from battery |
| Input voltage (rising from 0 to 255 V) | Output voltage | Operating mode |
| 217 V | from battery | |
| 169–204 V | 197–238 V | from the network with boost (AVR) |
| 205–244 V | 205–244 V | directly from the network |
| 245–250 V | 207–212 V | from the network with step-down (AVR) |
When the load increases to 250 W, the situation does not change - at least within the measurement error.
So, the results we obtained in some places go beyond the scope indicated above, but very slightly; this can be attributed to the characteristics of a particular sample and measurement error.
Output voltage form
Let's start with the transformer: when the AVR is triggered, it slightly distorts the output voltage waveform. Here are the oscillograms with different loads:
Live input voltage broadcast, 300 W
Output voltage with AVR at 400 W resistive load
Output voltage with AVR on non-linear load 200 VA (PF = 0.7)
We made measurements: the total coefficient of harmonic components during live broadcast of the input network was 0.8%, when the AVR was operating on the specified linear load it did not exceed 1.3%, and on a nonlinear load it was slightly higher - 2.1%. Despite the not very beautiful shape, it’s not scary: GOST 32144-2013 allows up to 8%; in addition, it normalizes individual harmonics, up to the 25th, but our measurements showed that they are also within acceptable limits.
The output of the inverter, as stated, is an “approximated sinusoid” typical for such sources, not much similar to a mathematical sinusoid, but quite suitable for working with loads that have switching power supplies.
Here is its appearance under different loads:
As you can see, both the signal shape and its amplitude change depending on the load. Naturally, we did not measure nonlinear distortions: we are not talking about “pure sine” in the description of the UPS.
Transients
The specification on the manufacturer’s website states the following: “Network-battery transition time 2–4 ms.” At the same time, the operation of the AVR remains outside the brackets, but we know that switching of the autotransformer windings is also not instantaneous, accompanied by bouncing of the relay contacts.
We tried a variety of modes. Here are the waveforms, first for a 100W resistive load.
The input voltage has dropped, the AVR boost stage is turned on:
Reverse transition - from upscale AVR to live broadcast:
Similar waveforms for the AVR step-down stage:
As you can see, in the first three tests the switching time is within 4 ms, only in the third the chatter lasts a little longer.
We change the load to a nonlinear 200 VA (PF = 0.7), for which we present oscillograms of turning on and off the boost winding.
If in the first case the time is minimal, about 2 ms, then in the second the chatter lasted for 9 ms.
Now let's check the situation with switching between mains and battery for the same two loads:
Non-linear load 200 VA (PF = 0.7)
Switching in any case lasts no more than 2 ms.
But there is a more difficult task: switching from battery to mains in conditions when the input voltage is too low and the step-up stage of the autotransformer must turn on.
Non-linear load 200 VA (PF = 0.7)
Here, transient processes last up to 15 ms, although it should be noted that the output voltage is not completely zeroed for the entire specified time.
But we still can’t blame the manufacturer for bias: our test confirmed the declared short switching time between mains and battery. And the fact that the specification does not mention other possible types of switching, which in our tests took both 9 and 15 ms, has to be classified as “little tricks” that marketers from various manufacturers resort to. Moreover, in this case, this trick is quite innocent: transient processes lasting even 15 ms for a UPS in this price category are not the most “outstanding” result.
Cold start
We tested starting the source with a button in the absence of input voltage and with different loads.
Nevertheless, both with linear (resistive) loads of 100 and 350 W, and with nonlinear 400 VA, the source started up normally. Here is the waveform for a 100 W load:
Once again we express our bewilderment at the fact that “cold start” is classified as an emergency mode. Probably, the manufacturer is simply playing it safe; however, we still recommend that in such cases you follow the instructions: first turn on the UPS with the button, and only then connect the loads.
Compatible with loads whose power supply is equipped with APFC
We will not test working with a computer power supply with active power factor correction in detail: it is impossible to cover the whole range of different power supplies, and even in a wide range of power consumption.
Therefore, we limit ourselves to connecting a middle-class computer with a power supply with a declared power of 500 W and APFC to the UPS. When working in office applications, it (together with the monitor) consumed 150–230 VA, no problems were observed.
Let us recall: one of the important conditions for the normal interaction of a power supply with an APFC with a UPS is the power reserve for the latter.
conclusions
So, the main advantage of an uninterruptible power supply Powerman Brick 800- convenience: two groups of three sockets, one of which provides only network filtering, and the second “full range of services” for uninterruptible power supply, will allow you to connect a wide variety of loads and control them with one button. Moreover, Schuko sockets are used, which will allow the use of standard cables of connected devices, as well as remote power supplies with a built-in plug.
Of course, due to the specific shape of the case, more space on the table will be required, but wall mounting is also provided.
In addition, the UPS is practically silent (except, of course, for the audible alarm), it can operate with very small loads without automatic shutdown “to save energy and battery life,” which some models of this class suffer from.
Everything else is the result of a compromise between functionality and price.
This mainly concerns the lack of an interface for monitoring power status from a connected computer, which eliminates the possibility of the operating system automatically shutting down before shutting down.
There are other, less significant points, such as using a fuse link instead of an automatic fuse.
In terms of performance, the results of our tests generally confirm the claims, but with some reservations. Thus, the battery life indicated in the specification is valid for loads up to 50% of the maximum (for very small loads, of course, battery operation can last much longer than stated). And with loads close to the maximum, the time will be calculated in tens of seconds and even seconds.
The output voltage, when changing over a wide range at the input, actually remains within the stated limits, which also meet the requirements of GOST.
Thus, within a modest budget, this UPS model can be a good choice for one workplace equipped with various office equipment, including not only a computer, but also a printer. True, you will have to keep an eye on the state of the power supply in order to respond to critical situations in time and shut down the computer normally.
Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.
An acquaintance contacted me with the following problem - his radio-controlled chandelier does not turn on.
Let me remind you that a radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled either from the control panel or by pressing the switch key.
In this case, the chandelier stopped responding to both the remote control and the switch.
I think that the problem is quite urgent, so, hot on the heels, I decided to write an article that will help save money and deal with this problem on their own, not only for ordinary citizens-consumers and home craftsmen, but also for electricians who have not yet mastered the wiring diagrams for such chandeliers.
Before you begin troubleshooting and repairing a chandelier with a control panel, you need to know its structure and connection diagram.
Design and diagram of a chandelier with a control panel
Chandeliers with a remote control can only be with incandescent lamps, can only be with halogen lamps, can only be with LED lamps, or can be combined.
In my example, a combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED lighting is presented.
This is what it looked like when they brought it to me.
Looking at such a knot of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, this was done by the electrician who was originally invited to troubleshoot the problem. He simply removed the chandelier, took his hard-earned 200 rubles and recommended that we look for another electrician to repair this chandelier.
But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first glance that this impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so complicated.
So, let's go in order.
Of the variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their design consists of the following modules of the same type:
- radio control unit (controller complete with remote control)
- halogen lamp unit
- LED lamp block
Let's consider the purpose of each block separately.
A chandelier radio control unit or controller is essentially a wireless switch that can be controlled using a remote control (RC) or using a regular single-key switch. This radio control unit is also called a switch, which is translated from English as “switch”.
The chandelier in question is equipped with a wireless switch type Y-7E radio-controlled unit.
Technical characteristics of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller:
- supply voltage 200-240 (V)
- number of output channels - 3
- voltage of output channels 200-240 (V)
- power of each channel no more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent or halogen lamps
- the power of each channel is no more than 200 (W) when connecting energy-saving lamps
- operating range of the control panel - 8 (m)
The connection diagram for the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller is shown on its case.
The controller is powered via a single-key switch (indicated by the letter K in the diagram) as follows:
- phase (L) is connected to the red terminal (Red wire)
- zero (N) is connected to the black pin (Black wire)
For clarity and a better understanding of the connection diagram for a chandelier with a control panel, I will post it sequentially in the form of fragments.
Here is a fragment of the Y-7E controller power supply circuit via a single-key switch.
For those who have forgotten how to connect a single-key switch -.
The Wireless Switch controller type Y-7E has three output channels with the following wire markings:
- phase of the first channel - brown output (Brown wire)
- phase of the second channel - white output (White wire)
- phase of the third channel - blue output (Blue wire)
- common zero - black output (Black wire)
The remaining one white conductor is the antenna of the signal receiver from the control panel (CP). You don't need to connect it anywhere.
A fragment of the Y-7E controller connection diagram without a connected load.
As you can see, the supply zero (N) and the common zero at the controller output (N) have the same wire color. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not break in the controller - these two conductors are soldered to one terminal. In principle, they can be swapped.
And here is the appearance of the Y-7E controller board, but we will return to it later.
As I said just above, our controller has three output channels, which means three independent lighting groups can be connected to it. In our chandelier it is:
- 1st group of halogen lamps
- 2nd group of halogen lamps
- LEDs (backlight)
Yes, by the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the only difference is in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.
We've sorted out the output channels, now let's move on to the loads.
Halogen lamp block
The halogen lamp unit consists of:
- power supply (transformer)
- halogen lamps
Here I will just point out that our chandelier uses Jindel GET-08 electronic transformers with a voltage of 220/12 (V) and a power of 160 (W) to power halogen lamps.
As a load, halogen lamps with a G4 base, 20 (W) in the amount of 6 pieces, are connected to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the transformer terminals in parallel.
Attention! Never install halogen lamps of higher power into the chandelier, otherwise the transformer will fail or the sockets will melt.
Let's return to the next fragment of the diagram.
An electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps is connected to the first channel (Brown wire) of the controller.
The electronic transformer is made according to the PUE:
- phase (input) - brown color
- zero (input) - blue color
The output wires have the following colors:
- phase (output) - white
- zero (output) – gray color
All wire connections in the chandelier are made using insulated end caps (IEC).
The plug is made of transparent nylon, through which you can see the depth of entry of the cores into the sleeve and the result obtained after crimping.
Then the resulting insulated connection is further insulated using heat-shrinkable tubing, and the tip is tightened with a zip tie. The result is a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.
An electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White wire) of the controller.
The color marking of the wires here is the same as that of the first transformer.
Let me remind you that halogen lamps cannot be touched by the bulb with bare hands - only through a glove, napkin or cloth, otherwise they will quickly fail.
LED block
And it remains to consider the connection diagram for the third channel at the chandelier.
The chandelier in question uses a simple Aled (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 LED driver with a rectified output voltage of 3-3.2 (V) to power the LEDs.
The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue wire) of the controller.
The driver wire markings have the following colors:
- phase (input) - red
- zero (input) - red color
- “+” (output) – black color
- "-" - White color
You can connect from 2 to 22 LEDs to the output of the GEL-11101 driver. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which smoothly change their color during operation.
All LEDs in the circuit are connected to each other in series. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, the entire branch will not light up. So if the LED backlight in your chandelier stops working, then first of all you need to start by checking the LEDs.
LEDs are very easy to change. They are simply inserted with their pins (legs) into the corresponding connector. The main thing is to observe polarity when installing them.
Alternatively, you can install a jumper instead of a burnt out LED. The driver allows you to work with fewer LEDs, but don’t get too carried away with this, otherwise the service life of the remaining LEDs may be significantly reduced. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to the problem.
Operating modes of a chandelier with a remote control
As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using a remote control (like) and using a regular single-key switch.
The chandelier control panel is programmed for a specific frequency and radio signal code, and can only work with the controller that came with the kit. Keep in mind that the remote control for another chandelier will not work for you, so if you lose the remote control, you will definitely have to buy another controller.
- button A
- button B
- button C
- D button
When you press button A, the first channel of the controller is turned on, i.e. The 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. When you press button A again, the first channel is turned off. The same applies to buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channels, respectively. But when you press the D button, all three channels are controlled at once.
If you control the chandelier using a single-key switch, then when the key is turned on briefly, the first channel will turn on, when the key is turned off and then turned on, the algorithm will switch to turning on the second channel, etc., i.e. The controller channels are switched sequentially. And then the channel control cycle is repeated.
If there is a long power outage, the controller algorithm is reset to its initial state.
In principle, if the batteries in the remote control are low or you have lost it altogether, then it is quite possible to control the chandelier with a switch, although this is not entirely convenient.
DIY diagnostics and repair of a chandelier with a remote control
We have figured out the connection diagram for a chandelier with a control panel, and now we need to diagnose our malfunction.
Let me remind you that the chandelier in question does not turn on, either from the control panel or from the switch.
In principle, everything is simple. Since there is no radio control, it means that the controller (switch) comes under suspicion first of all. But you need to be 100% sure of this. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the circuit and connect all three lighting groups directly to a 220 (V) network in order to check the serviceability of the electronic transformers for halogen lamps and the driver for LED backlighting.
To do this, I put together the following diagram.
I used .
We turn on the machine and watch. All lamps should light up, provided that they are working and their power supplies are working. As you can see, in my case all the lamps are on, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.
I will immediately replace the burnt-out halogens with halogens with similar parameters: G4 base, voltage 12 (V), power 20 (W) from the Navigator.
From here we draw the obvious conclusion that the cause of the malfunction in the chandelier has been found - the Y-7E switch has failed.
During an external inspection of the Y-7E board, I did not see any burnt or charred elements.
Only I noticed some kind of “track” on the MKR-X2 capacitor, but most likely the factory varnish was dropped so carelessly.
By the way, the controller is powered using a transformerless method using a circuit with a quenching capacitor, i.e. The following are connected in series to the 220 (V) network: capacitor MKR-X2, diode bridge, zener diode and load. The excess network voltage “drops” on the capacitor, and at the output of the diode bridge the voltage is already about 12-13 (V) DC. The signal receiver is powered from a 5 (V) source, which is converted from a 12 (V) voltage.
Relay coils (blue blocks) are connected to voltage 12 (V), the contacts of which switch the load of the output channels.
As you can see, the relay contacts are designed for a current of up to 10 (A) at a voltage of 240 (V), although in the technical specifications the channel power is limited to a power of 1000 (W) or a current of 4.5 (A), i.e. there is even some reserve left.
The article is already quite voluminous, so I will tell you about troubleshooting and repairing the Y-7E controller another time - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the release of new and interesting articles.
Now you need to purchase a controller similar in power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check its functionality.
A friend of mine purchased a Sneha B-837 controller. It is quite suitable in terms of power and number of channels. Its cost was 535 rubles (as of the date of writing this article).
Similar devices can be purchased at lower prices, for example, on well-known Chinese sites such as AliExpress.
If there is no urgent need for a controller, then for a while the chandelier can be left connected directly from a single-key switch without a controller.
The set even includes a stand for the remote control. It can be placed near the sofa or bed so that the remote control does not get lost.
We connect the purchased controller according to the diagram above. The only difference will be in the colors of the wires of its output channels.
The Sneha B-837 controller has three output channels, which have the following wire markings:
- phase of the first channel - blue output (Blue)
- phase of the second channel - white output (White)
- phase of the third channel - yellow output (Yellow)
- common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)
I connected the controller wires to the chandelier wires using NShVI sleeve lugs with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm. I inserted two conductors, crimped them using PKVk-6 press pliers, insulated them and was done.
We check the functionality of the chandelier, both from the control panel and from the switch key. Only instead of a key I will switch with a two-pole circuit breaker.
The chandelier with remote control works properly.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in repairing a chandelier with a remote control. The main thing is to consistently check the serviceability of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and radio control controller.
And as usual, watch the video based on this article:
At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with a control panel can be used not only to control lighting, but also other loads, for example, remote control of blinds, curtains, cornices, gates and other electrical devices.
Addition. Watch the video where I replaced the transformer for halogen lamps near a similar chandelier:
P.S. That's all. I hope that this article will help you figure out how to connect and repair a chandelier with a remote control. Thank you for your attention.
