In the previous article, we told you how you can make it yourself, that is, the cutting element is a thin, flexible file that is tensioned using a spring. This tool is very convenient for making figured cuts - all kinds of curves, radius saws. However, in a carpentry shop the main requirement is to cut straight lines at different angles. For such tasks, the above-mentioned machine will be inconvenient, so we bring to your attention a new design designed specifically for even and straight cuts.
Introduction
Classification
There are two main constructive approaches to solving this problem; they are divided by location in space:
- up;
- down.
The first option will be described by us a little later, since at the time of writing this article it is in development at the prototype and design stage, but the second option will be described in this article.
Purpose
This design is quite universal and has a wide range of applications from domestic (at home) to industrial use (carpentry workshops, furniture workshops, etc.). The versatility is determined by the fact that the machine is built on the base, which is a common hand-held power tool and is owned by almost every master, since it is compact and multifunctional. It can be used to make blanks from various types of materials:
- solid wood;
- plastics
and others.
Advantages
Compared to the standard method of use, this device allows you to achieve one, but very important parameter - evenness of the cut. You can saw off quickly and somehow quite simply by placing the workpiece on a horizontal surface, hanging the part to be sawn off, and sawing off. But there is no need to talk about the quality of the cut, no matter who the master is. Our design allows:
- make a simple, even cut (strictly in a straight line);
- trim the workpiece at a clearly specified angle - 90° and other arbitrarily specified angles;
- make a straight saw at an angle to the plane of the workpiece, when it is not perpendicular to the plane of the workpiece, but has a different, preset angle, for example 45°.
Basic design
The device is not complicated and consists of several basic elements:
- base;
- guide;
- swivel stop.
All structural parts are made of plywood or solid wood.
Here's a little background information that might come in handy.
| Nominal plywood thickness, mm | Number of layers of plywood, not less | Sanded plywood | Unsanded plywood | ||
| Maximum deviation, mm | Different thickness | Maximum deviation, mm | Different thickness | ||
| 3 mm | 3 | +0,3/-0,4 | 0,6 | +0,4/-0,3 | 0,6 |
| 4 mm | 3 | +0,3/-0,5 | +0,8/-0,4 | 1,0 | |
| 6 mm | 5 | +0,4/-0,5 | +0,9/-0,4 | ||
| 9 mm | 7 | +0,4/-0,6 | +1,0/-0,5 | ||
| 12 mm | 9 | +0,5/-0,7 | +1,1/-0,6 | ||
| 15 mm | 11 | +0,6/-0,8 | +1,2/-0,7 | 1,5 | |
| 18 mm | 13 | +0,7/-0,9 | +1,3/-0,8 | ||
| 21 mm | 15 | +0,8/-1,0 | +1,4/-0,9 | ||
| 24 mm | 17 | +0,9/-1,1 | +1,5/-1,0 | ||
| 27 mm | 19 | +1,0/-1,2 | 1,0 | +1,6/-1,1 | 2,0 |
| 30 mm | 21 | +1,1/-1,3 | +1,7/-1,2 | ||
Making tooling for straight sawing with a jigsaw
This section will describe step-by-step instructions for making the product. The whole process is divided into three stages of manufacturing structural elements:
- base;
- guide;
- swivel stop.
For production we will need the following materials:
- solid coniferous wood;
- various fasteners (mainly wood screws, furniture fittings, pins, etc.)
and the following tool will also be used:
- Milling machine;
- Circular saw or machine from;
- Drilling machine;
- Grinder();
- Jigsaw with ;
- Various hand tools.
Guide
To make a guide you need to take a board of the following sizes:
It must slide along the guide, so the features of the guide plate (in technical slang - “sole”) are very important.
We mark the guide blank.
Then you need to select a groove with a router, which will serve as a guide along which the jigsaw sole will move during the sawing process.
We make end stops. Then they need to be glued to limit the movement of the jigsaw along the guide, as shown in the photo.
We check the smooth movement of the jigsaw along the guide and if there are defects or burrs that impede the movement, remove them.
Next, you need to make cylindrical bushings to prevent the wood from jamming when clamped with fixing screws. The bushings can be made from an aluminum tube with a diameter of 10mm. We drill holes and press bushings into them. This completes the production of the guide.
Base
The base, by and large, is just a box, which is the basis for attaching the guide and the rotary stop, and most importantly, it raises the entire structure above the level () so that it does not get damaged.
The assembly of the box is simple and unpretentious - the top base is made of the same or solid wood and the sides are made of the same wood. So, we cut out the sides.
And we attach them to the base to form a box, as shown in the photo.
Next, screw M6 or M8 furniture fittings into the drilled holes in the base.
We screw the studs into them and install the guide.
We make a cut in the working groove, as shown in the photo.
We cut out an expanded groove to allow sawing at an angle. Please note that when sawing at an angle, you need a fairly long
We fasten the straight stop with screws, make a hole and install an M6 or M8 furniture fitting to attach the rotary stop. See photo below.
At this point, we consider the manufacture of the base complete.
Rotary stop
The design of the stop is simple and unpretentious; it is a guide with a semicircular element glued to it for fixation on the base.
Install the stop using a bolt of the appropriate diameter. The bolt head can be “fitted” into a comfortable handle so you don’t have to use a wrench every time. We also secure the guide using homemade nuts made from mortise wing nuts.
At this point we consider the sawing machine ready.
We hope that the material presented was useful to you.
Conclusion
We have made a universal device for direct cutting based on a household jigsaw, which should rightfully take its rightful place in your workshop among the tools.
I didn’t want to permanently place my expensive Makita jigsaw on the table, so I decided to buy another one to create a table. I was very lucky to find a jigsaw in the “Our House” store Caliber LEM-610E for only 862 rub. Includes: wood saw, side stop, adapter for vacuum cleaner, spare brushes for the motor.
There was an outlet next to the display case and I looked at it in action. It is quite well made, convenient, there is a speed control with a wheel, and the activation is fixed with a button. The saw holder moves smoothly without any play.
It’s very fortunate that I was able to twirl it in my hands before buying it; I wouldn’t risk ordering it from the Vseistrumenty.ru website without knowing what it is. (Although they write good reviews about it) By the way, it costs more there and there is also a delivery fee... so I successfully bought it at Our House. :)
Despite its advantages, it has a number of disadvantages that I noticed upon closer examination:
1) The file does not fit into the saw holder. Apparently this is a defective copy, but I did not waste my time on the exchange. Each file has to be sharpened. (Although I won’t be able to use them on the second jigsaw after grinding - it doesn’t matter, they are relatively inexpensive)
2) And this drawback is visible even in the picture. The canvas is tilted strongly forward. (This was also corrected by placing tin strips under the back of the sole, achieving 90 o.
3) The speed control wheel turns heavily, not very clearly and with jamming. At the minimum speed value, the tool cannot start at all (However, the same garbage with starting is with my other “calibrated” drills. This is unpleasant, but does not spoil life much)
As always, everything is in the spirit of minimalism. I did not make a separate switch. It is quite convenient to turn on with a standard button and lock into place.
To do this, I bought a bracket at KrepMarket (this is a fastening element from some kind of iron structure system)
By the way, I really love CrepeMarket. Any screws, nuts, screws, fasteners. Every time I design something, I wander around in thought and collect the necessary details.
I cut off the excess and sharpened it.
Back view. Now the distance between the bearings has a fixed clearance for the file of 1.2mm. I have a plan for the future: to make a gap adjustment.
For thin materials it can be lowered.
As an experiment, I drew a star and tried to cut it out evenly
For a 130mm file, the maximum possible thickness is 5cm. It turns out there are very long files; I recently saw a 300mm file on the market
I sawed off a 1.5mm slice from a 40x40mm block
Which is what I did. Now you can use it to cut long workpieces 11.5 cm wide. The old L-shaped design also remains, and if greater strength of the holder is needed, it can be installed again, although the new design remains quite strong and reliable.
I also came up with the idea of making a knife from an old dull file, grinding off its teeth and sharpening it.
 |
They can be used to cut material like sealant into shapes. The cut is smooth. Much better than a utility knife. The photo shows a mouse pad.
Well, that's probably all. The table turned out to be reliable and comfortable. Now I have a tool with which I can perform more delicate work than with a circular saw.
A jigsaw is a necessary tool on the farm. The good news is that there is a huge selection of models for this product. There are manual, electric hand and stationary tools, the purpose of which is curved cutting of various materials from chipboard to metal. This is achieved by various elements included in the design of modern electric jigsaws. Let's look at some of the jigsaw accessories called guides.
Peculiarities
The operation of the jigsaw can be adjusted by the following elements.
- By tilting the sole, due to which you can make oblique cuts. Used quite rarely.
- Stroke frequency, thereby adapting to the material. If they work with wooden materials, then use the maximum frequency, in other cases - the average.
- Pendulum motion of the canvas. This regulates the vertical and longitudinal movements of the tool.
But the accuracy and quality of cuts are ensured and controlled by the jigsaw’s guide elements. These include the following devices: guide rail, support roller, ruler and laser illumination. The latter, however, is not present on all jigsaw models.
Let's take a closer look at the various jigsaw guides.
Support roller
This part of the tool is a wheel that guides the main working body (the file) and at the same time serves as a support for it, absorbing the forces on the file from the process of cutting a particular material. The function is actively revealed when the volume of work and the dimensions of the workpiece are large. When using a pendulum stroke, the saw blades begin to move more efficiently - not only down and up, but also back and forth. At the same time, dust and sawdust are better removed from the groove being cut, which means the jigsaw produces a better quality cut.
The support roller is a necessary part in a jigsaw; without it, neither high-quality cutting nor long-term operation of the engine, files and other elements are possible. Due to frequent jamming and jamming of the saw blade in the material, overheating of the moving mechanisms and overload of the electric motor would occur. And this all leads to their rapid wear and failure.
For the quality of the video to work, the following rules must be observed:
- cutting blades must be of good quality;
- threading modes must comply with the instructions supplied with the tool;
- Do not allow wood shavings to get into the roller, and after use, clean the product from dust and debris.
Guide rail
This is a simple piece that resembles a large ruler; it can be up to 1.5 meters long. The tire is made of metal, often aluminum. It has a groove in which the sole of the jigsaw is located and it moves along it. The guide may have rubber strips on its base that prevent sliding on the workpiece. Small clamps act as clamps for the tire.
Some features when choosing a jigsaw tire:
- the price is determined by the size, quality of the materials used, as well as the brand, which indicates the durability of the tires used;
- it is important to use only products from trusted companies to avoid damage to essential equipment and situations associated with injuries;
- if you use significant force when cutting, you can damage the tire and material;
- Lack of lubrication leads to overheating of the tire.
There is a peculiarity when choosing a tire for each tool. There is a wide variety of them on the market, but each brand produces this auxiliary device only for its specific models, thereby reducing the versatility of the jigsaw addition to a minimum.
Rip fence
The device necessary for straight cutting: aligns the edges, makes a high-quality cut at the edge of the workpiece. The stop is similar to the letter “T” and consists of a fixing bar and a long ruler attached to the body of the jigsaw.
This structure is installed parallel to the plane of the file, and the unit itself must fit tightly to the surface of the product workpiece.
It is possible to make a high-quality cut with this additional device only in the following cases.
- Choose a flat and parallel plane for support.
- The jigsaw should not move to the side when working.
- The stop must be rigid and durable to use.
- It is necessary to press the shoe firmly against the support when working with the tool.
Ruler
The guide ruler is a product with an aluminum profile, 1 meter long. Most often comes complete with clamps. Clamps are universal - they are inserted on both sides of the ruler and tighten well, fastening it to the workpiece. The jigsaw in its kit has a parallel stop, which was mentioned above, with a fixing bar at one end. This device is inserted into the groove of the guide ruler and it turns out that the jigsaw is fixed to the guide.
Accordingly, using a fixed ruler it is easy to cut a perfectly straight or parallel line along the workpiece with a jigsaw. If the jigsaw kit does not include a stop, then the jigsaw is pressed against the ruler with the side of the sole and the desired work is carried out.
Laser pointer
This auxiliary device is necessary so that you can cut in hard-to-reach places or in poor lighting. You can install the lighting into the unit yourself, but it is better to choose a jigsaw with a laser function if you do this type of work professionally.
The laser pointer makes it possible to cut the part along the intended path. This indicator is protected by a special screen, which allows you to operate the device for a long time.
This convenient backlight can be turned on by pressing a button on the jigsaw. There are models in which the laser lights up when the tool is started, and goes out when the work is finished. You need to pay attention to such features of jigsaws when choosing the most suitable option for yourself. Some manufacturers produce removable laser pointers that can be removed from the product if necessary and used without it.
However, it is worth warning that there are models with a laser, which correctly shows only the first few centimeters of the cut, and then begins to openly “lie”. But, for example, with the Stumer unit, the laser is installed efficiently and firmly fixed. If the laser shows the wrong direction, the device can be disassembled and adjusted to the required direction. It would be right if you test the operation of this device when purchasing.
We bring to your attention a simple device that significantly improves the quality of sawing with a jigsaw. A slight modification of the tool ensures a fairly smooth saw without chips. The idea of the device is to provide zero clearance between the file and the surface being processed, so that when the saw moves, the material being cut does not pull out. The material that will be pressed by the additional platform will not be so susceptible to chipping. The task is to add a panel to the jigsaw sole that will hold the file and reduce its runout.
MDF is used as the material for the lining. First you need to saw off the MDF plate to the size of the jigsaw sole. Next, we make markings to make the necessary holes and cuts for fasteners and files.
Now the task is to secure the site. Since MDF wears out quickly, fastening should be done according to the principle of sufficiency so that the platform does not move away during operation. But for safety reasons, you should not abuse the simplicity of fastening.
Checking the operation of this device shows that with the pad there are almost no chips, the saw is much smoother.
discussion
vladimir krestyanin
just on top of the side where the chips are, put some other material, plywood or fiberboard, clamp it with clamps, and saw them off together, there will be no chips, neither from a circular saw nor from a jigsaw.
Victor Kropopov
gentlemen masters! During various works on el. jigsaw - the first thing you need to remember is to unplug the tool from the outlet! Otherwise, the saddest incident in your life will happen!
Slava zavadskij
An old friend of mine once shared his impression. In short, the circular saw amputated his index finger and his thick finger up to the second phalanx, and he stands there looking and thinking: no, this is not mine, that’s who I am. Nothing like this can happen to me. But now his four are climbing into a three-liter jar to the left to get cucumbers. It's stupid how it happened.
Alexander Klimov
+Alexander Suvorov You can also change the files. This is more about using a “zero clearance” liner. And this is applicable for any sawing tools and not only for a jigsaw.
Chuck Norris
We cut through the laminate with a stationery knife on both sides, then it will depend on your accuracy. In principle, it is possible to saw off without chipping at all. The file I used was Makita, which comes with the jigsaw. Do not cut directly along the cut, but to the right or left of it.
Artem Eliseev
buy a decent jigsaw with anti-splinter inserts (I got it twice in fifteen years), a set of files for different materials and you don’t need to inflate airships from a condom, killing for half an hour on the sole every day, or better yet, a fine toothed file and tape, a pendulum 0 speed is average and it will be Fortunately, the rotorizer is in your hands, the jigsaw was originally intended for rough cutting, just like a reciprocating saw, an alligator saw, a chainsaw, multitools, etc. Tires are not provided for them, except perhaps for the collective farm green Bosch
+- 1 mm is normal, this is not a router
ramil sayfutdinoff
in the first minutes I thought, why not saw from the back side so that there are no chips on the front side, you can also glue masking tape, there will also be fewer chips, use files for finishing cuts with small straight teeth, if there is a speed control, lower the speed .
Spajaj. Ru
The key word is “almost no chips.” This “almost” increases quite quickly.
I have previously experimented with a manual circular saw. I even made a special table with a long slot. But unfortunately this is not a solution. This is almost not stable and does not last long.
Channel namsilat / eugene antoschenko
One disadvantage with this solution is that the cut point is not visible. You can solve it simply by making a similar thing out of transparent plastic 😉
Rafail Abdullin
Hello! I understand that you do carpentry professionally? I need your advice. I want to buy a jigsaw for my home with a power of 600-750W. Requirements: reliability, accuracy and cleanliness of the cut, minimum backlash in the mechanics. The rod is round (preferably) noise and vibration are minimal. We don't consider the pro series. I've been choosing for a long time, I can't choose. Interesting options: aeg, de walt (some models), sparky, skill - as an option, ryobi and hummer are questionable. What can you say about these brands, if of course you have worked with them. I read a lot on the Internet and YouTube. Mostly advertising or conflicting information. I would like to hear it first hand. Thank you
Alexander Klimov
I haven’t worked with the indicated brands, so unfortunately I can’t say anything about them. I worked with a Makita jigsaw, the impressions were positive, it was quiet, there was minimal vibration, it sawed easily. Now I also pay attention to Interskol tools. There are several that perform quite well.
In fact, my jigsaw is not the most popular tool (I used to have it - now I put it in a jigsaw - http: //youtu. Be/hf-p5gpg00y) I often do curved things on a band saw.
Rafail Abdullin
Makita is also interesting, but unfortunately it has 450W, I think for a 60mm board it will not be enough. I don’t want to work at the limit - it’s a pity for the engine, and the higher ones are expensive.
Rafail Abdullin
Hello! Thanks for the info. I want to ask you. What belt sander can you recommend for sanding (old) plank floors? In the future I will use it for furniture and household chores. The budget does not allow having several different cars. Therefore, I am looking for universal (if I may say so) selection criteria: power - 800 W, speed adjustment. The substrate is not bad. Adjustable handle. Adjusting the tape. Not a high level of noise and vibration, we don’t consider the reliability of the pros if you find time to respond.
Alexander Klimov
+ Rafail Abdullin I myself have been using a Makita 9910 belt sander for more than three years, it’s a reliable thing, although without additional adjustments, in the first year I sanded 250 m*2 of pine (board, batten)
It is difficult to perform all types of sanding with a belt, although it may be enough for home use.
And the most budget-friendly and versatile option is a plate with Velcro. Place it on the drill and... With some practice you can go from rough sanding to fine sanding.
Oleg Yurinov
Alexander, well done! At work, we saw like this: we take a suitable piece of transparent plexiglass, place it on the workpiece so that you can first enter the plexiglass until the saw is completely immersed in it, and then, pressing the plexiglass with the jigsaw platform, we move along the cutting line. The marking line is visible through the transparent glass. The plexiglass is first sawed off with a file, and then pressed with the jigsaw platform and slides along the workpiece material. And thus the minimum possible gap is automatically maintained in front and on the sides of the file on the top side of the cut. We use files with the tooth pointing upward (regular, preferably on laminate). Detonation must be turned off. Try it on laminated
There will be no chipping on the top side of the chipboard. Cons: dust removal is required at the top of the cut; statically magnetized dust sticks to the plexiglass.
Vitaly Sukora
overall excellent, but I would recommend using a piece of laminate, it will last longer and put masking tape in place of the cut, the cut will be without chips. And so like!
Skrudge82
In general, I went even further. I made a platform and also added my own tricks, namely -1- I put tape on the cutting area and -2- I lubricated the cutting area with machine oil. The cut turned out almost perfect. There were still some small bugs. Tomorrow I'll try again with tape on both sides and oil on both sides. Since the bottom side turned out to be chipped. And the top is perfect.
Dima is different
This is a good option, but you will only have to cut along the guide.
Because you can’t see where the file is cutting. Or make a wider cutout in the plank up to the file.
I'll check your option sometime. But you can still choose the right files. Or make a cut with a knife. Laminated surface
Nikolay Vidineev
Alexander, have you tried sawing with Makita files, in which the top 10 teeth are directed downwards, the rest, as usual, are slightly longer than the rest and when the saw moves downwards on the top of the workpiece, they are sawed exactly as usual from the bottom. I actually worked with them a little, but I liked it, on plywood without chips.
Nikolai alieksandrovich
I have a Bosch jigsaw, pendulum, and different files, and there are no chips.
Slava zavadskij
the game is not worth fixing, there are almost no chips, you can’t tell the customer, and if you do, he will answer that they pay for almost high-quality work. They almost pay too :-)
evgeniy zzr
Alexander, I have a problem with sawing 35 mm plywood for a window sill, I tried it with a jigsaw, the saw cut was not even, I tried it with a portable circular saw, tearing out the veneer, this is when the veneer is across the cut, what can you think of?
Alexander Klimov
saw with a circular saw along the stop, only the first - put a disk with a large number of teeth 36 or more, the second - screw a platform made of plywood or MDF 6-10 mm thick to the saw with the saw raised, then carefully saw through this platform to get a zero gap. And third, when sawing, set the depth slightly greater than the thickness of the material. In your case – 37-40 mm.
T It’s difficult to make a precise cut without specifically monitoring the file, but if you make the cut with a reserve. Even chips are not a problem, but if it helps you. Has the right to life
Oleg Yurinov
no, not as a jigsaw platform, but between the platform and the material. Something like an anti-splinter liner that drags behind the platform and is gradually trimmed. A piece of plexiglass ends up being cut in half by a file unless a new cut is made. But it effectively extinguishes chips from above.
Alexander Klimov
that is, plexiglass is a consumable material; using the same principle, you can cut it in a package, for example, fix the fiberboard on the workpiece with a line drawn along which to cut, and then remove the fiberboard. There will also be a clean cut.
Maria Semenova
When working with a jigsaw, it hits. It feels like the file is dull and, clinging to the material, does not cut it, but lifts the tool. I tried to replace the blade, but the beating remains. What could be wrong?
Yuri Plotnikov
In essence, it turned out to be an anti-splinter liner, the installation of which is provided for in more or less decent jigsaws. Only this liner is usually made of transparent plexiglass.
And I solved the problem with chipping by purchasing t308b(o)(f) files
Yuri Plotnikov
+ Alexander Klimov and with these files it doesn’t chip even without an insert. The trick there is that the teeth on the lower half of the file are oriented upward, and the teeth on the upper half are Japanese-type and slightly oriented downward. Due to this, it does not chip. Although the insert will not be superfluous in any case!
A compact and relatively mobile sawing tool, it has earned a reputation as a practical device used all over the world. A universal jigsaw, capable of making straight and curved cuts, including at an angle. Possessing impressive capabilities, this device could become a leader in multi-purpose applications. Unfortunately, certain design features made it more of a narrowly focused tool, but with good potential.
One of the disadvantages of working with a jigsaw is that it is quite inconvenient to carry out an accurate, straight cut. The main reason for this drawback is the thin saw blade, which easily changes its direction during sawing. The second reason lies in the structure itself, which becomes loose over time and noticeably reduces the evenness of the cut. Fortunately, these flaws can be ignored if you have special jigsaw tools that you can make yourself. Next, we will tell you how to make a special table and stop for maximum precision sawing with your tool.
Jigsaw table
To make working with a jigsaw more comfortable and the cutting line to be smoother, numerous craftsmen combine it with a small stand, turning this symbiosis into a convenient mini-workbench. The jigsaw is installed in the table from the bottom side, so that the file is directed upward, passing through a specially prepared hole. The start button of the tool is fixed, and the operator calmly cuts the workpiece, controlling it with both hands. This device allows you to cut more accurately and is great for convenient work with large volumes of material.
Making a basic table for a jigsaw with your own hands is quite simple, both for an experienced craftsman and a beginner. Any more or less suitable materials that you can work with will be suitable for assembly. If you only have a saw and a screwdriver, make it from chipboard or thick plywood. Owners of grinders and welding machines can afford to make a mini-workbench from metal sheets and tubes. Such a device can even be made from plastic, if there is a way to securely fix this material. As a visual example, we will provide a guide for assembling a small table made of thick plywood.
To assemble a simple table for a jigsaw with your own hands, drawings are generally not required, since everyone chooses the dimensions of such a product individually. As a visual example, we will give a photo of a fairly miniature box indicating the dimensions of all its sides. Based on this data, you can estimate and select the optimal aspect ratio for your future product.
The parts are connected using ordinary self-tapping screws, screwed into the edges of the walls of the tabletop. If the material used does not have a varnished coating, PVA glue can be used to enhance fixation. This design will be stronger, but it will no longer be possible to disassemble it.
Advice. Before screwing the finished surface to the base, you should mark and drill a hole in it for the file in advance. Next, place the jigsaw sole on the opposite side, make marks in its grooves for fixation, and then drill. It is more convenient to carry out such manipulations on a clean surface, which will only need to be screwed to the walls.
As a base, you can use a workbench or another, more or less suitable piece of furniture. The author of the following video made a table for working with a jigsaw from an old bedside table, installing a switch and a dust extractor in it.
Jigsaw attachment
Installing a jigsaw in a table greatly simplifies the process of sawing thin materials, but the cutting accuracy drops when it comes to thick bars. Due to the flexible structure of the saw blade, when it turns in a large mass of wood, the end of the file bends and lags behind the central part. In this case, it will not be possible to obtain an exact 90-degree angle. At least, without a special jigsaw device that holds the file strictly perpendicular to the surface.
To cut material more than 3 cm thick without fear of beveled edges, you just need to adapt a simple device to your mini-machine. The essence of the element’s operation is to fix the end of the file between two freely rotating rollers. To make such a jigsaw device with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- Bracket for fastening metal structures (as in the photo)
- Pair of bearings: 11mm radius
- Bar: 600x40x40
- Square of thick plywood or chipboard: 100x100
- Mounting bracket: 2 pcs
- Bolts with washers and nuts for fastening to the table and installing the bracket: 5 pcs.
- Screws with washers and nuts for fixing bearings: 2 pcs.
- Wood glue
- Drill with a set of drills for wood and metal
We measure and drill 2 holes for the bearing screws. Their location should be equidistant from each other, at a distance equal to the thickness of the jigsaw file.
Having finished constructing the stop, we move on to assembling and installing the lever. To do this, we make 2 pieces of timber of the required length, and connect them at an angle of 90° using PVA glue and metal corners. We combine the resulting structure with a bearing guide and press it against the side wall of the table with a plate with 4 screws. This fastening technique allows you to change the height of the lever to work with massive materials.
At this point, the guide to assembling a jigsaw table with a file holder is considered complete. The assembled device is a neat and very compact mini-workbench for convenient cutting of materials of various thicknesses. We hope that the author’s product will become a visual example for you or at least give you a couple of ideas for assembling your own table.
Table for cutting with a jigsaw
Such a multifaceted tool as a forehead has several varieties, the simplest of which is the manual type of device. This elementary tool, not burdened with an electric drive and complex components, is intended for accurate figured cutting of workpieces of small thickness. The speed of work depends on physical indicators and the convenience of the workplace. To facilitate the cutting process, it is recommended to build a special cutting table for a jigsaw, the drawing of which is located below. This simple device will save energy and significantly increase work efficiency.
You can assemble a table for a jigsaw from a variety of materials: plywood, chipboard, wood, laminate, metal and even plastic. If there is absolutely nothing suitable in stock, and the required piece needs to be purchased, then in this case, plywood will be the most easily accessible and convenient to process. To manufacture a complete product you will need the following components:
- Plywood (or something similar): 260x200x10
- Clamp
- Self-tapping screws with countersunk head: 4 pcs
- Saw (hacksaw or jigsaw)
- Drill or screwdriver with a set of drills
- Ruler
- Sandpaper or file
