To see a beautiful piece of land in a dream or receive is a harbinger of a happy family life.
Well maintained land with beautiful gardens in a dream - a sign of a big family happiness.
Land covered with greenery or moss in a dream - for money or a profitable marriage.
A barren land is a dream for those who face setbacks and bitter losses.
If you dream that the land is sown with wheat, then your hard work will help you enrich yourself.
To kiss or eat the ground in a dream means humiliation and loss.
Vegetables growing on the ground are a sign of grief and trouble.
Seeing fertile, black-earth terrain means your opportunities, which you miss due to laziness or weakness of character. Sometimes such a dream warns of excessive gullibility. The larger the piece of land that you see in a dream, the more wealth, joy and happiness awaits you in life.
If you dream that you are desperately digging the ground, then you should moderate your selfish appetites so that you will not regret it later.
To plow, sow, fertilize, plant seeds in the ground in a dream means profit and increased prosperity. For those getting married, such a dream predicts a strong family and healthy children.
Wet ground, turned into slime, predicts illness. If you get dirty with it, then expect shame and strife. See interpretation: slurry, dirt.
Measuring a piece of land in a dream is a sign of discord with relatives. Measuring a piece of land in a dream portends that your situation will be desperate and your loved ones will pity you. Put the markings on the ground - for divorce or division.
To see the dug earth - sometimes to the funeral. Especially if you see her under the window of your house or near the house of your loved ones.
The shattered earth is dreamed of by those whose life is not arranged. Such a dream does not bode well for them soon.
If rods, sticks, pieces of wire stick out of the ground, then expect a delay in solving your case. In addition, you have enemies who are trying in every possible way to harm you. And this dream also means that you have messed up a lot in your life. Try to correct errors if possible.
To see the earth from a ship in a dream is a sign of imminent success, which will follow long worries and searches.
If you see a foreign country, then soon you will be made an interesting offer related to the trip.
The earth opened up under your feet in a dream - a sign that you are in for a collapse in business and in love. Such a dream predicts long suffering, disappointment and humiliation. See interpretation: earthquake.
Getting bogged down in swampy earth in a dream means that your affairs will stall. If in a dream you are lucky and you get out of the swamp, then fate will generously reward you for your hard work. See interpretation: swamp.
To see diggers in a dream means that the enemies are waiting for your death.
Lying on the ground in a dream is a sign of the unsettledness of your life and the collapse of plans for the future. After such a dream, it may well be that you will lose your livelihood.
If you dream that the earth has collapsed before your eyes, or if you see an earthly failure in a dream, then your plans will fail completely, troubles or misfortunes await you. They say that such a dream predicts good luck for those who owe money or are going on the road, since it promises to the first that they will not have to pay debts, and to others that their road will be successful.
Subscribe to the Dream Interpretation channel!
Subscribe to the Dream Interpretation channel!
How to understand that we have a plant suffering from waterlogging? Falling leaves is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they literally fall off - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (aglaonema, dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but they still hold on to the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but at first discolor, become pale yellow. But in other cases, the characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is leaf darkening. The leaf does not just turn yellow, it just darkens, the color turns from a healthy juicy green muddy-bog shade, gradually turns into brown. If overmoistening was preceded by overdrying, then the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.
Decayed roots exfoliate, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging.
And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, some plants have juicy Brown color.
Sudden or gradual flying around leaves, blackening of shoots, damp sour earth ...
The trunk still seems alive, green, but the roots have rotted, the plant can no longer be saved.
When there is not enough water for the plant, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissue may lose elasticity, droop, or may remain dry. After watering, the turgor is restored, the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then mezhilkovy chlorosis may appear, the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When waterlogged, the leaves can lose their elasticity, droop, but after watering, the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur from watering with cold water. Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3 ° C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22 ° C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, causes the death of the suction roots from hypothermia, and, as a result, leaves fall.
As for the hardness of the water, it cannot be the reason for the sudden fall of leaves and the death of the plant. If you water the plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones that are sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose leaves en masse. All harm manifests itself gradually: first, chlorosis spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.
In case of massive leaf fall, when the leaves fall off not one by one, but dozens at once, the reasons may be as follows: sudden hypothermia (for example, when transporting home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning roots), severe drying out, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from waterlogging, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to touch the soil with your finger at a depth (for example, the roots have grown a lot), and only after taking the plant out of the pot, you can determine whether the earth is wet inside the root ball.
Some growers pull until the last, not wanting to take out the plant and examine the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, do not even hesitate - remove and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top, the roots are not thick, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot, the roots twist a tight ring, the interlacing of the roots makes it difficult to dry and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small, clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.
On tangerine, the result of waterlogging and acidification of the earth. Chlorosis is a lack of various trace elements.
Such a deplorable state is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp earth on a cold balcony, on the street.
There is also a deplorable symptom, characteristic of the strongest prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture has occurred, then the case is already very much neglected, often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (turned yellow or darkened), there is nothing to save. A similar picture is possible only with strong hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when overdrying. When dry, wilting begins from old leaves, from the lower shoots, the trunk is bare from below. When waterlogged, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.
And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaena, dieffenbachia, any succulents (fat women, adeniums, etc.), cacti are a sure sign of excess moisture.
Another symptom, which is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of mushroom mosquitoes. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too abundantly, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps it has become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, podura (colembols) are white or dirty gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the earth in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.
Rescue measures for flooded plants
When you do establish that the plant has been flooded, you need to urgently take action. If you have established the fact of waterlogging after you removed the plant from the pot, then you have to transplant. If the fact of waterlogging was determined by indirect signs (leaf fall, damp earth to the touch), then the need for a transplant depends on the severity of the situation that has arisen.
- If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch has withered in the mighty crown, and the soil in the pot is light enough, then you can not replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundant watering, the soil spreads, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, then the roots suffer from a lack of air. If the seedlings are watered, then the seedlings may not come to the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
- If the pot has small drainage holes, you can widen them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
- Personally, I never try to just loosen the ground, it is not too reliable and justified in cases where a flooded plant in a very large pot, transplanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very rise in temperature will accelerate the drying of the earth.
- In all other cases better plant transplant.
Signs of a bay in orchids - the leaves of the phalaenopsis turn yellow, they are lethargic, wrinkled. The bark dries for a very long time, the roots rot from constant contact with a damp surface.
Rotten roots must be pruned. In some cases, new pot have to pick up a smaller size than it was.
So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Still, is the earth damp and how much? Count when you last watered and how much it dried. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil is dry for a long time, say, a week has passed after watering, and upon examination it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this, or calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, bays happen systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically revise the care system: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; move the plants to a warmer room or water less often when the ground dries out more. Sometimes you have to literally slap yourself on the hands so that you do not rise with a watering can above the plant ahead of time ...
Examine the roots. Rotten can be seen right away - they exfoliate, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, under it there is a bundle of blood vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such stratification occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not delaminate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy succulent roots rot completely, and this can also be seen immediately - they are dark, dirty gray or brown in color, sometimes softened. Often healthy roots and rotten ones can be identified by contrast appearance, some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only outside, but also at breaks or cliffs.
There are times when rotten roots easily break off and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the ground. If you did not find definitely rotten roots, but the earth and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we blot with a bark ball in any hygroscopic material: in a heap of old newspapers, in a roll of toilet paper. You can even put a plant with an open root system (without a pot) to dry for several hours.
Having found rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many of them. This is the source of the infection, there is nothing to regret. We cut everything to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cuts with charcoal (wood, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If neither one nor the other, pound the pill activated carbon... If there are very few roots left, much less than it was, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.
I have already said that a pot that is too spacious, not filled with roots, does not contribute to the rapid growth of plants, and in some cases even hurts. In a spacious pot, the plant is easier to pour. And even if watered carefully, the plant seeks to build up the root system, to develop a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the ground part.
Substrate for aroid, bromeliad and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, a substrate: earth, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine cork, pine bark and moss (its very small). The decaying anthurium transplanted into this mixture bloomed a month later and releases a third bud.
If you have a tendency to flood your plants, use clay pots to plant your plants. But there is one important point: the inside of the pot must not be glazed. If the walls clay pot covered with glaze inside, it is no better than plastic.
So, you need to pick up a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: it is better smaller pot, the more. It's okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, they will notify you with their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant into a larger pot and that's it. During the growing season, plants can be transplanted at any time and more than once. Most plants, if they get sick after transplantation, stop growing, then this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.
After transplanting, you cannot put the plants in the sun, even the most light-loving ones, they should be shaded for a week. You cannot water the plants on the same day, especially those reanimated from overflow - these are generally watered in 2-3 days for the first time. Do not fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting patients (including flooded ones), you can not add dry fertilizers (no manure, no dung, no granular fertilizers). Do not seal the transplanted plant in a plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes a real evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, must be placed in conditions of high humidity in the first days. And many tend to shove the plant in a bag and tie it tighter. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But oxygen access is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes with roots and leaves, if the plant was flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms have developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it simply needs fresh air!
Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten its edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day, if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray of water on an inverted saucer.
If the plant has rotten tops, the ends of the shoots, they must be cut to healthy tissues. If there is an opportunity, at the same time, cut the healthy branches for rooting in order to be able to preserve at least something if the bay has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots are still vigorous until they wither (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be cut from them. In some cases, with rotting roots in vascular system plants get toxins (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of the activity of bacteria and fungi) and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking ones do not take root, they are already doomed ...
After transplanting, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in the dark (most stimulants decompose in the light). If there are dark spots on the leaves that have rotted tops of the shoots, then it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add the fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides: Fundazol, Maxim, Hom, Oxyhom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh dry soil, the plant can be watered with zircon solution.
If a plant with a wide rosette of leaves, in the form of a funnel, like in bromeliads, is flooded, then it is necessary to dry the base of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, gently remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in the winter.
Another important point: after the flooding, the soil in the pot sours: the roots of plants continue to emit carbon dioxide, humus renewal slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form indigestible to plants. For example, iron transforms into an oxidized form (F3 +), which forms a rusty brown crust on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not assimilated, as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: signs of calcium, iron, nitrogen deficiency appear. At this stage, some growers do not pay attention to the condition of the soil, and are in a hurry to treat the effect, not the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer, turn yellow. At times, it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovite), and after fertilizing the soil, it gets even worse.
In such a situation, the only way out is to completely replace the land. And if you are in a hurry to apply fertilizers, then it is advisable to rinse the roots when transplanting under a stream of warm water. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with charcoal and plant in fresh, dry soil.
If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth dries for a long time! Such a salt crust must be removed, the top layer of the earth must be replaced with a fresh one.
The purpose of the lesson:
Continue to familiarize with the rules of caring indoor plants, show their role in human life.
Continue to develop children's interest in the flora;
Lead children to understand that indoor plants are living organisms that require some care;
Reinforce knowledge of the basic needs of indoor plants;
Teach children to construct a statement;
Develop the skills of working with the algorithm;
To cultivate a love for plants, a desire to look after and take care of them.
Answer the problematic question "Why do you need to care for indoor plants?"
Learn to care for indoor plants.
Download:
Preview:
Lesson topic: "Loosening the earth".
The purpose of the lesson:
- continue to acquaint with the rules of caring for indoor plants, show their role in human life.
Tasks:
Continue to develop children's interest in the flora;
Lead children to understand that indoor plants are living organisms that require some care;
Reinforce knowledge of the basic needs of indoor plants;
Teach children to construct a statement;
Develop the skills of working with the algorithm;
To cultivate a love for plants, a desire to look after and take care of them.
Expected student achievement outcomes:
Answer the problematic question "Why do you need to care for indoor plants?"
Learn to care for indoor plants.
Used pedagogical technologies:
technology for the development of critical thinking, technology of problem learning, information technology of education.
Equipment:
houseplants, houseplant illustrations, soil loosening pegs, watering can, presentation.
Organizing time.
Hello guys and dear guests!
The bell rang and fell silent,
The lesson begins.
Everyone looked at me
They smiled and sat down.
I. Determination of the topic of the lesson, challenge:
- (Slide number 1) Guys, look at the slide, what time of year does it show? (winter).
Now look out the window, what are you seeing there? (empty, everything is frozen, covered with snow ...)
Despite the fact that along with winter snowstorms and blizzards come to us. The foliage was dropped and the trees, bushes, grasses froze. Frozen, but not dead. Under a dead blanket of snow, they conceal the mighty force of life. But there is another group of plants that makes up for this deficiency, these are plants that bloom and delight us with their beauty not only in summer, but also in winter.
A person grows these plants indoors. Look at the plants in the study.(Slide number 2)
What is the name of this group of plants? (Houseplants).
- What do you guys think the houseplants have to do with our lesson?
You are absolutely right. For several lessons we have been studying the rules of caring for indoor plants and today's lesson is no exception. But first, we will recall the material of the topics covered.
Knowledge update
Before you are leaflets on them there are questions and answers to these questions, but not all answers are correct. You must circle the letters with the correct answers, there can be several or one of these letters. Now you sign your last name, first name and independently begin to complete the tasks.
Written test survey:
- What plants are called indoor?
a) ... which are grown in the garden;
b) ... that grow in the forest;
c) ... which are grown in the room.
- Choose what any houseplant needs to live:
a) air;
b) water;
c) soil;
d) light;
e) plowing.
- What kind of water should be watered for indoor plants?
a) from the tap;
b ) water at room temperature;
c) hot;
d) boiled.
- How to remove dust from plants with small leaves?
a ) with a damp cloth;
b ) with a damp sponge;
c) a brush;
G ) a spray bottle (sprayer).
- What kind of care do indoor plants need?
a) dust removal;
b) spraying;
d) drying;
c) watering.
Let's check: I will show the correct answers, and you, if necessary, correct the incorrect answers.(Slide number 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)
Set the leaves aside.
- (Slide number 8) So, we remembered the rules and methods of caring for indoor plants, tell me, andwhy do you need to care for indoor plants?
Okay, we'll come back to this question at the end of the tutorial and check if you answered it correctly.
Look at the board, in front of you is a table, the first column of which is called what?
- "I know".
So what do you already know about caring for indoor plants? (fill in 1 column of the table)
But we still do not know everything about caring for indoor plants, there is another way, you want to know which one?
This is the way to loosen the earth (we fill in the 2nd column of the table).
We will fill in the third column "Learned" at the end of the lesson.
II Comprehension:
The topic of our lesson: "Loosening the earth."
What do you think is loosening the earth?
Guys, I'm on email received a letter from an experienced grower, about "What is" loosening "for a plant?", listen to it carefully:
(Slide number 9) Loosening is one of the important elements of flower care. This is the so-called "drywatering "And they say the truth:" It is better to loosen well once, than to water poorly 2 times. " When loosening, small soil capillaries are destroyed, through which water rises and thereby the underlying layers of the earth are dried. When loosening, air enters the soil and the roots of the plant breathe.
Why do you need loosening for indoor plants?(Air enters the soil, makes the roots breathe).
(Slide number 10) Loosening rules:
- it is necessary to loosen the top layer of the earth the next day after watering;
- loosen the ground to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm;
- loosen carefully, mainly near the walls of the pot, so as not to damage the roots.
How to do loosening correctly?
I have prepared for you a memo "Rules of loosening", it will help us to do practical work.
Physical education
Game "Be attentive"
I propose to leave the desks. You should raise your hands, clap your hands above your head, as soon as you hear a word somehow connected with flowers, and if it is not connected with flowers, you stamp your feet:
Road, stem, window, leaf, flower pot, wind, bouquet.
Well done! The claps were not simple, but magic keys, thanks to which the doors to our practical site were thrown open.
Practical work
The plants in front of you are waiting for our departure. To do the work on loosening the soil, we need a peg, it is in front of you. However, you must observe the following rules when using the hoeing peg. Everyone put the pieces of paper with the rules in front of us and we begin to read aloud at the same time, in an undertone, so as not to interfere with each other.
Safety precautions when working with a loosening peg:
1. Dangers at work:
- hand injury;
- eye injury.
2. What to do during work:
- work with the peg carefully;
- pass the peg only with the blunt part forward;
- do not raise the peg high.
3. What needs to be done at the end of the work:
- wash the tool.
4. What to do in case of injury:
- Seek medical attention immediately if injured.
Roll up your sleeves, put on aprons and remember that during work you cannot push, talk loudly, stand in such a way that everyone is comfortable and can see everything, respect each other. (The teacher does the same.)
Feel the soil on the flower slides. What does it feel like?
The soil is solid.
Here's how to loosen the soil in flower pots:
- I take the pot with the plant with both hands and put it in so that it is convenient for me to loosen the soil.
- I take a peg for loosening and begin to loosen carefully near the walls of the pot to a depth of 1.5 cm. It is marked on the pegs.
Kirill, show and tell again how to properly loosen the soil in a pot.
Now you yourself will loosen the soil.
How will Timofey start this work?
I will take a pot with a plant and put it closer to me.
I take a peg and begin to loosen the soil near the sides of the pot.
Artyom, how should the loosening be done?
Loosen carefully so as not to damage the roots.
Students independently loosen the soil in pots with indoor plants, the teacher walks along the rows and helps the children with their work.
Ksyusha, what is the soil in the pot after loosening?
The soil has become soft (loose).
Guys, put the plants with loosened soil in their original place. Rinse your hands and pegs, dry your hands and pegs with a napkin and fold everything neatly. We sit down correctly. We return to our table.
Let's answer the question "What have I learned?" (3 columns are filled in)
So d Why do you need to care for indoor plants?
Green pets will thank you with clean air, foliage, beautiful flowers, and some even fruits.
(Slide number 11)
III. Reflection
"Bouquet of mood"
Guys, at the beginning of the event, I gave you red, yellow and blue flowers. Let's put these flowers in front of you, and if you are satisfied with your work in the lesson, then you take a red flower, yellow - I worked well, but I can do it even better, blue - the work did not work out, I am not happy with myself. There is a houseplant on the board, but it hasn't bloomed yet. Now you attach your flowers to this plant, and it will delight us with its flowering.
In conclusion, listen to N. Grigorieva's poem "Indoor Flowers"
I love flowers in the room
How can you love them too.
I caress them, water them,
I sing a song to them for the night,
They answer with love
They are greeted with a tender smile.
Additional task:
- Do you believe that indoor plants purify, refresh and moisturize the air (yes).
- Do you believe indoor plants are watered with cold water (no).
- Do you believe that indoor plants are watered with settled water (yes).
- Do you believe that large and smooth leaves of indoor plants are wiped with a piece of soft damp cloth (yes).
- Do you believe that pubescent leaves cleanse dust from a spray bottle (no).
- Why do indoor plants, despite changes in inanimate nature, still remain green and even bloom with the onset of winter?
The situation when in a pot on the soil surface home flowerpots form either a dried crust, or a whitish bloom from an excess of mineral fertilizers, familiar to many.
I used to loosen the soil more and more in flower pot... I even stuck a stick into one of the pots on the windowsill so as not to look for it if necessary to loosen the ground. But after my friend Olga, an experienced gardener, told me about different methods of soil mulching, I began to apply these methods.
Earth in flower pots
There are three components to the beauty and harmony of a houseplant: the plant itself, the pot and the appearance of the soil surface. And if no one doubts the first two points (the plant should be well-groomed and healthy, and the pot should correspond to the size of the plant's root system), then not everyone cares about the aesthetics of the soil surface. But in vain ...
The earth can and should even be hidden. This procedure is called mulching. Mulching "kills two birds with one stone": the earth is masked and created Better conditions for plants.
© DepositPhotos
Thanks to this method, moisture evaporation from the soil is reduced, while poor conditions are created for the germination of weeds and the penetration of pests into the soil, which is also an indisputable plus of this method, and, of course, the flowerpot gets a beautiful appearance.
Today edition "So simple!" will tell you about a few mulching options, which will greatly facilitate the care of green pets, as well as decorate your interior. Save it, it will come in handy!
© DepositPhotos
The material with which you are going to cover the soil must pass water and air well, and must not contain harmful substances. Please note that not every material that is used for these purposes in the garden is suitable for indoor plants.
For garden plot try to use those types of mulch that rot over time and become an element of the soil. In indoor gardening, the most important thing is the durability of the material and its beautiful appearance.
Types of mulch for flowerpots
- Most economical option suitable for those who have plants with beautiful colored leaves. They can be crushed and covered with soil in pots.
Pay particular attention to the crushed greens of plants such as nettles, legumes, and yarrow. Similar herbs are rich in macronutrients, nitrogen and can be used as soil enrichment.
© DepositPhotos - Forest moss looks beautiful in pots. And not only green, but already yellowed. Well, if you don't have forest moss, then you can use the one sold in orchid soil kits.
© DepositPhotos - Pine mulch, from bark, humus, sawdust - these are organic materials that allow you to enrich the soil, regulate its acidity. At the same time, bark for mulching, humus, compost, peat, tea, pine needles and other substances are able to protect the plant from a lack of moisture, they serve as an additional source for feeding.
© DepositPhotos - Small stones just look great. And here it is not at all necessary to use multi-colored purchased ones, you can simply collect any small pebbles and rinse them with hot water.
© DepositPhotos - The cut grass is rich in nitrogen, but it must be used carefully, as it quickly heats up during decomposition and can greatly impede the penetration of air into the soil.
© DepositPhotos - Straw for pets is rarely used, although it is capable of lowering nitrogen levels if necessary and keeping warm.
© DepositPhotos - From synthetic materials, colored foam crumbs are used, which have no effect on the soil and the plant itself. The service life of such materials is long, they do not interact with the soil, they perform a strictly decorative role, trapping moisture in the ground, preventing it from evaporating.
© DepositPhotos
Plants, like people, need winter sunlight and warm. Indoor plants often feel bad indoors during the cold season. The reason for this is too dry air and lack of sunlight.
