About technologies for external protection of log houses using natural and mineral oils. Features of choosing and applying oil for wood Wood impregnation oil for exterior use

To protect wooden products and surfaces, water-repellent impregnation is often used. Impregnation for wood against moisture, fungi and rot is universal, so it can be applied to all types of wooden products and surfaces (walls, ceilings, floors, furniture, and so on).

Purpose of water-repellent impregnation

Water-repellent impregnation is a special substance that coats the surface to increase its protective properties. As such impregnation, special mixtures that are sold in stores are usually used. There are both internal and external wood impregnations, as well as universal ones. You can also make protective impregnation yourself at home using oil and wax.

Wood impregnation performs the following functions:

• Protection from water and precipitation. Wood can absorb water on contact, resulting in poor performance.
• Protection from harmful bacteria. In case of prolonged contact with water, pathogenic microorganisms can settle in the wood and begin to destroy such a product from the inside, and the main danger is that such bacteria are almost impossible to destroy.
• Protection from bugs and mechanical damage. Bark beetles have powerful jaws, and they usually live in large colonies, so they can very quickly destroy wooden products.

Oil or wax

The best substances for impregnating wood against fungus and mold are oil and wax. These substances have been used for more than 500 years, so their effectiveness has been proven in practice. Many people use either oil or wax for impregnation, however experienced craftsmen they prefer to use these substances together as part of a complex impregnation. Wax impregnation with the addition of oil perfectly protects wood from moisture, mold, fungi, bacteria and light mechanical damage, but at the same time they are completely safe for humans. It should be borne in mind that there is only one type of wax, but oils are different, but most often tung, teak, tar and linseed oil are used for impregnation.

Pros and cons of oil impregnation

Water-repellent impregnation based on wax and oil has many advantages:

• Environmentally friendly (oils and wax are of natural origin).
• The appearance of a beautiful matte shine, which improves the appearance of wooden surfaces and products.
• Ease of processing. You can do the impregnation yourself at home, since this does not require special skills and knowledge.
• Cheap and accessible. Oil and wax can be bought at any specialized store that sells paint and varnish products, and their cost is quite low compared to chemical impregnations.

However, wax and oils for external impregnation tree has its limitations:

• The protective impregnation wears off quite quickly, so it is recommended to impregnate the wood at least 3 times a year.
• If the impregnation was applied carelessly, then at the end you will have to do additional cleaning to hide this defect.
• Grease stains are clearly visible on the impregnation, so they must be promptly removed so that wooden surfaces and products look beautiful.

Tung oil

Tung oil is universal - it can be used to treat floorboards, ceilings, furniture, various products, and so on. After application, it penetrates into the deepest layers of wood, so tung oil is usually used in cases where the master wants to emphasize the texture wooden product. Tung oil consumption - 100-150 g per 1 square meter(however, please note that if the air temperature is below +15 degrees, this impregnation thickens, which increases its consumption). Drying time is 1-2 days.

Linseed oil

Flaxseed oil is one of the the best materials for impregnation of wood. This oil has high waterproofing properties, so it is usually used to coat furniture, walls, floors, ceilings, interior doors, facades and so on. After application, linseed oil easily penetrates into any unevenness and cracks, so even old wooden products can be coated with it. Please note that after impregnation of wood with linseed oil, adhesion to the surface does not occur immediately, but optimal time Drying time is 2-3 days for each layer (for example, you applied linseed oil in three layers - in this case, such a substance should dry for 6-9 days).

teak oil

Teak oil is universal and is most often used to impregnate wood. Teak oil consists of three components - tung and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. In fact, teak oil is an improved version of tung oil because the flax and turpentine prevent thickening. You can treat floors, walls, ceilings, decorative items, toys, railings, furniture, dishes, and various elements with teak oil wooden elements landscape design and so on. Please note that teak oil is not recommended to be diluted with water, but it can be used in conditions of high humidity (for example, in the kitchen or bathroom). Drying time is 1-2 days.

Tar oil

Tar oil has the strongest antiseptic properties, so it is usually used to coat large wooden objects - boats, external doors, houses and outbuildings, outdoor furniture and so on. It also dries very hard, so it can also be used as a protective coating against bugs and insects. Tar oil consists of linseed oil, stump resin and pine turpentine, and it can be stored even at negative air temperatures. Consumption - 100-150 g of oil per 1 square meter. Please note that in some cases tar oil sets to the surface rather slowly, so after application the wooden surface or products must dry for at least 6-7 days to reduce the likelihood of peeling.

Tinting oil

So-called hydrophobic tinting oils have also become widespread. These impregnations are usually made from linseed and tung oil with the addition of various additives that improve the technical properties of the oil. There is no need to be afraid of such oils, since they also protect wood well from water, fungi, bacteria, insects and mechanical damage. You can impregnate almost all wooden surfaces with them - furniture, floors, ceilings, floors, various products, and so on. The most reliable are tinting oils such as “Shishka Premium”, “Mahogany”, “Walnut” and so on. When purchasing, it is recommended to read the label, since some tinting oils have their own application characteristics.

Impregnation of wood at home

You can also do wood impregnation yourself. To make such a mixture and apply it to wood, you will need the following tools:

• Oil and wax.
• Brush.
• Kitchen grater.
• Glass jar.
• Any a heating element(for example, gas stove).
• Large bowl (for heating wax and oil)
• Foam sponge and soft cloth (to remove excess moisture-resistant impregnation).
• Wooden or metal stick (for stirring the hydrophobic impregnation during heating).
• A wire brush, spatula, heat gun, sandpaper or any other available wood processing tools.

Impregnation technologies

Do-it-yourself hydrophobic impregnations for wood are applied to surfaces different ways, however, the most commonly used method is the coating method and the soaking method. You also need to take into account that impregnation can be applied to wood only after preliminary surface treatment.

Preliminary stage

Water-repellent impregnation is applied only to the treated surface. Processing algorithm:

• If the wood has an old coating (impregnation, paint, etc.), then it needs to be removed. This can be done using a spatula or a wire brush. If old paint If it is cleaned very poorly, then in this case it must be preheated with a hair dryer.
• Now you need to sand the surface to make it smooth. It is recommended to do the treatment 2 times - with coarse and fine sandpaper.
• Finally, use a rag to remove dust and various construction debris.

Preparation of the oil-wax mixture

Impregnation is done as follows:

• Take the wax and grate it on a coarse grater.
• Pour into a large metal container oil and put it on fire.
• When black smoke appears, add the grated wax and stir the mixture with a stick.
• When the wax is completely dissolved, turn off the heat.
• When the solution has cooled slightly (to +60 degrees and below), pour it into a glass jar.

The ratio of oil and wax should be:

Coating

Coating is used to protect large objects and/or surfaces (walls, ceilings, doors, large furniture, etc.). Algorithm:

• Take a jar of oil-wax mixture and stir it with a stick.
• Using a brush, apply impregnation to the wooden surface (it is recommended to apply the composition along the grain).
• 20 minutes after application, carefully remove excess impregnation with a rag.
• Wait until the impregnation dries completely (in the case of tung oil - 1-2 days, in the case of linseed oil - 2-3 days, and so on).
• If more durable protection of wood from rotting is required, then after drying you need to apply another 1-2 layers according to the standard algorithm.

Soaking

Soaking is suitable for impregnating small items (toys, wooden dishes, decorative items, etc.). Theoretically, it is possible to soak large removable surfaces and products, but this will require a large container, and the consumption of the composition will be very large. Algorithm:

• Lay several layers of newspaper or protective paper on the floor.
• Place a large metal container and fill it 50-60% with the oil-wax mixture.
• Place wooden products there for 1 day.
• Remove the products from the container and place them on newspaper or paper (it is recommended to place them on some inclined surface to allow the oil to drain).
• Wait for the impregnation to dry.
• If necessary, after complete absorption and drying, repeat the procedure again.

Waxing

German technician Winfried Müller tested the products of 13 of the largest European manufacturers of oils and waxes for wood. We present a shortened version of the article published on the website www.wikidorf.de.

Introduction

The beginning of the testing turned out to be simple: most of the products performed almost identically, since the main component was the same natural oil - linseed oil. However, the further we went, the more noticeable the differences became.

Confusion arose as soon as it came to the composition: some products resembled paint or glaze. One manufacturer's solid oil was similar to another manufacturer's glaze and a third manufacturer's waxy oil. If we were to take a strict approach, different formulations would have to be called differently - but we only need to know what can be expected from the product, so excessive detail is not required.

Types of coatings

Wood is usually protected in two ways:

• impregnated with oil - then the fibers will not be able to absorb water and dirt;
• covered with a protective layer (varnish, wax or paint).

But now there are many hybrid options on the market - so you need to look at whether the coating absorbs the wood or whether it forms a protective layer on it. In the second case, we need to know how reliable the protection will be.

When applying wax, the protective layer becomes soft, you can even scratch it with your fingernail. Therefore, wax is most in demand as a filler for wood fibers to protect against moisture.

A thin protective layer is formed by oil, which contains wax (especially hard wax), resins and drying agents.

Solvent

IN last years Manufacturers are increasingly offering products at water based. This trend is likely to continue as such formulations produce less pollution. environment. But water-based coatings also have disadvantages.

• are distributed unevenly;
• are not stored for a long time;
• When applied, they dry quickly, which increases their consumption.

In this regard, I prefer solvent-based products, to which I am not allergic, or natural oils. The latter requires more time to process, but is also more durable than varnish or synthetic paint. This must be kept in mind - although we should not forget: durability largely depends on the ability of the wood to absorb the composition.

Another point: Reviews of various formulations can only be useful if they are not superficial. Unfortunately, reviews are often limited to only a few products, whereas for a full comparison it is necessary to consider all the well-known brands that are widely available for sale.

Overview of oils and waxes

Kreidezeit products

Since 1987, the company has been producing environmentally friendly products from natural, renewable raw materials. Compositions are based on traditional recipes, adapted to today's requirements.

The company's catalog contains about 200 products - they are developed and produced in-house (except for color pigments).

Solid oil PureSolid

Contains: linseed and tung oils and rosin. Does not contain synthetic solvents. The oil entered the market in 2006.

Can this solvent-free composition penetrate deep into wood? The experience of using it on beech has shown that yes. During the test (60 minutes, 20°C), the wood absorbed about 130 g/m² of oil. The manufacturer recommends PureSolid for coating countertops and wooden floors: unfortunately, it was not possible to test the oil on surfaces subject to heavy wear, such as floors.

If necessary, the oil can be diluted with turpentine, which makes sense when working with resinous wood (pine, larch, spruce).

The oil can be heated in a water bath to 60 °C for hot application, which, however, is not always necessary.

The oil takes a long time to absorb - you should wait at least 45 minutes before rubbing in any excess.

The surface treated with PureSolid oil becomes shiny, especially if you rub it twice with a soft cloth (for example, white pad).

In general, the composition is easy to apply, even beginners can work with it.

Hard wax Kreidezeit

Contains: linseed and wood oils, beeswax and carnauba wax and turpentine as a solvent. The consistency of the wax resembles solid honey.

The material is easy to work with, but it is important to apply it in a thin layer. If you do the opposite, then when the solvent evaporates, the thick layer of wax will become sticky.

4–6 hours after applying the wax, the surface must be polished; if you do this earlier, the pad will stick, the same is possible when applying a thick layer of wax. The end result: a surface that is silky to the touch with a slight shine, on which, alas, even minor damage is visible. The coating itself is durable.

Attention! Wooden children's toys are not covered with wax.

Carnauba wax emulsion Kreidezeit

This is a product for the care of waxed and oiled floors. It consists mainly of water-emulsified carnauba wax (from the leaves of the palm tree Copernicia cerifera).

This is a care product that can be added to water for washing floors (3 tablespoons per 8-10 liters). Since wax does not have a cleaning effect, first wash heavily soiled floors with a cleaning agent. If the floor has been oiled or waxed recently, it is best to treat it with a wax emulsion before you walk on it.

Products Natural

Natural is a small family business in Austria that has specialized in the production of natural paints since 1976. The company is a member of the registered association of natural paint manufacturers ENAV, which also includes: Auro, Beeck'sche Farbenwerke, Naturhaus, Leinos, Livos and Biofa.

Winfried Müller: “What I like more and more when working with natural oils is their smell. It can be addictive"

Solid wood oil

This is a classic processing oil that contains solid and solvent in a ratio of approximately 1:1. The oil is well absorbed and has a pleasant aroma - it contains isoaliphates (solvents with low toxicity) and orange peel oil.

The composition gradually penetrates into the pores of the wood and takes a long time to dry. Tests on beech showed that the wood was well saturated and the second coat required very little oil, but it also took a long time to dry.

The composition is suitable for children's toys. Due to the simplicity of application and processing technology, even beginners can work with oil. For heavily loaded surfaces (floors, countertops), the company recommends parquet oil, as it is even more durable.

Natural parquet oil

The product resembles solid wood oil, but contains less solvent: the ratio of solvent to solids is approximately 2:3.

The oil takes a long time to dry (60–90 minutes); when using a thin layer, a polymer film forms on the surface of the composition half an hour after application. In this case, you need to either add more oil or remove the supernatant (supernatant layer) after 10–15 minutes. It is important not to miss the moment.

The oil is mainly used for treating floors, but it is also recommended for countertops.

Finishing oil

This oil is applied to the oiled surface. It easily forms a polymer film and makes the surface more elastic. After polishing, the surface becomes silky-glossy - and this despite the fact that the oil contains no wax.

The oil forms a fairly hard surface (cannot be scratched with a fingernail), which is most likely due to the high content of resins (rosin and damar). It is well suited for processing softwood.

The smell is soft, slightly reminiscent of orange. It is important to shake the jar well before use; it is also worth stirring while working: the resins quickly form a sediment. Not recommended for use on waxed surfaces.

Finishing oil is suitable for treating surfaces that require special protection. It can also be used instead of natural oil glaze to temporarily protect the surface.

Winfried Müller: “Although oil is used only as a finish on an already treated surface, I used it as the only treatment for the wood. This works well on normally loaded surfaces (when applied in two coats).”

The oil has not been tested for suitability for processing children's toys!

Natural glaze for wood

Glaze can be used as a coloring oil: in this case it emphasizes the structure of the surface. But it is important to note: not all wood is suitable for glaze treatment - coloring pigments may penetrate unevenly into the pores of solid wood. For example, beech becomes spotted after treatment.

There is an option: you can apply the coating in a very thin layer. In this case, the glaze (very liquid and easily absorbed) is well distributed.

At interior work Oh, it’s also better not to apply the glaze in a thick layer, since different areas of the surface will shine differently. In addition, azure is not very hard; its polished surface is easy to damage.

Another option for using glaze on hardwood is rough sanding (P120).

At the ends of buildings, azure should be used with caution: since in these places the composition is absorbed better than on a regular surface. This can lead to profound color changes on the edge surfaces.

Drying to form a polymer layer takes a little longer than with oil. The fully treated surface dries only after 1–2 weeks.

Natural oil for treating terraces

This oil - colorless or pigmented - is intended for external wood treatment. Because it dries quickly, it is ideal for patios, decking and garden furniture.

On the outside, it usually makes sense to use pigmented oils. The visual aspect plays a role here, although some woods treated with clear oil are also quite beautiful.

However, pigments always provide UV protection, although to a lesser extent than special additives.

Natural decking oil penetrates the wood like regular oil, but forms a hard, thin layer on the surface due to the natural resins it contains.

20–30 minutes after application, the oil must be spread over the surface again in an even thin layer. After drying, it will acquire a characteristic shine. IN natural conditions drying lasts about a week, after which it is recommended to treat the surface with a second layer. To renew the coating, it is enough to coat the wood with one layer of oil.

Beginners like to cover the surface with too thick a layer, guided by the principle “A lot is not a little!” In this case, this is not true: excess oil will have to be removed from the surface with a rag or clothing (it depends on your luck), and the coating itself will remain sticky for a long time.

Osmo Products

Osmo products are noticeably different from conventional oils and waxes: when used, a polymer layer is almost always obtained on the surface of the wood. Unlike other manufacturers, Osmo uses not linseed and tung oils in its products, but sunflower, soybean and thistle oils. The composition also contains candelilla and carnauba wax, paraffins; White spirit is used as a solvent.

Osmo tries to combine the naturalness of the product and good properties, so sometimes you can find in the composition that are by no means “problem-free” chemical compounds, for example 2-butanone oxime (banned from production in Canada as a potential carcinogen). However, this substance quickly evaporates after processing and is not contained in the coating after polymerization. Also, in recent years (as of 2015), the company’s products contain sorbents based on cobalt salts, which has been criticized by Ökotest.

The oils used by the manufacturer are not as high quality as flaxseed, but Osmo somehow managed to make quality coatings based on them. Their advantage is the absence of a strong odor.

Osmo Hard Wax Oil

Osmo Hard Wax Oil is Osmo's most famous product. Treating countertops, floors, and other surfaces that are constantly exposed to it has proven to be very effective. Often Osmo Hard Wax Oil is considered as an alternative to classic oil in terms of application method.

It is applied to the surface in a very thin layer. It dries quickly enough without rubbing. For application, it is better to use a brush with artificial fiber; the bristles will be too rough for the oil.

It is very important to mix the oil well before starting work! Excess oil should not be allowed to form on the surface, so as not to spoil the natural grain of the wood.

There is no need to sand the surface between coats, but if the wood fibers remain rough after the first drying, they can be smoothed with fine-grit sandpaper (P320-400).

Winfried Müller: “Even though the oil dries relatively quickly, I will still be careful with the surface during the first two weeks after applying the topcoat.”

The surface after treatment became pleasant and smooth to the touch. The film formed on top of the wood is strong and elastic. In addition, it is resistant to moisture: even after spilled water was left on the treated surface for a day, no stains formed.

It is better to treat small parts in another way: apply oil with a thin soft cloth in several layers (from 3 to 6 - depending on the load expected on the surface). The gloss in this case will be matte.

Osmo Hard Wax Oil, unlike most products, protects wood primarily on the surface: beech is characterized by a coating penetration depth of 0.1–0.5 mm (usually for oil this figure is 1–4 mm). Because of this, damage and deep scratches need to be treated again.

The solvent used is gasoline with aromatic compounds. The treated surface smells strongly, especially in the first weeks, and then the smell is practically not felt.

If you need oil for painting wood, the manufacturer's line includes colored oil with hard wax. After applying it, it is recommended to renew the coating with a colorless compound or decorative wax.

Before using oil, the wood must be sanded with an abrasive of at least P150 grit. For furniture made of hardwood, this figure should be increased to P180–240.

After processing and polishing the coating, the thin layer of wax becomes quite hard, but it is important to note: if the layer of oil is more than recommended, the layer will remain soft even after years.

Sometimes information appears on the Internet that the treated coating can deteriorate if you place a hot bowl on it, etc. The test results (a cup of boiling water stood on the treated surface for an hour) showed that there were no marks left on the wood.

In 2009, Osmo Hartwachsöl Pure was developed, which contains virtually no solvents (less than 1%). The way it treats wood will be different, because the composition is more viscous compared to the oil in question.

The oil contains white pigments, but the resulting color is quite subdued. Apply the oil in a thin layer no more than 2-3 times.

Testing the composition on pine and beech showed good results. The oil was applied twice, and the surface was polished after each layer.

Osmo Low Wax Oil

The composition is quite liquid, the consistency resembles water. Unlike many other Osmo products, this oil penetrates deeply into the wood and does not form a protective layer on the surface. 30 minutes after application, the composition should be completely wiped off the surface.

Testing has shown that beech absorbs about 100 g/m² of the composition in 30 minutes. During this time, the oil penetrates quite deeply into the pores of the wood and gives the material a slight yellowish tint.

The processing technology is simple: it is unlikely that anything will be done incorrectly. The oil does not stick if you wipe off any remaining residue after processing.

The composition of the oil is approximately the same as other Osmo oils: sunflower, soybean and safflower oils, carnauba and candelilla waxes, paraffin, drying agents, polysiloxanes (silica based), 2-butanone oxime, dearomatized mineral spirits.

Osmo glaze for application in one layer and transparent glaze

Winfried Müller: “Advertising claims that to protect the wood, applying this glaze in one layer is quite enough. I'm very skeptical and think this is a "lazy compromise". Of course, it will take less time to process the wood if you apply the coating in one layer, and the result is quite acceptable.

But there is also a problem: there will always be a surface that was accidentally not treated properly, and one layer will not cover all the flaws, but covering it with two layers will solve this problem. Therefore, I believe that a coating with good protective properties is always applied in 2-3 layers. Everything else is nothing more than advertising promises.”

Azure is intended for both internal and external work (except for windows - they require a coating with a thicker protective layer). After the first application, the effect is barely noticeable, unless the wood does not completely absorb the composition: in this case, a transparent layer remains on the surface. After applying the second layer, a satin shine remains on the surface in any case.

Thanks to its oily-liquid consistency, the glaze saturates the wood well. In places where there is resin on the tree, a shiny surface is initially formed, but after weathering it becomes dull.

After processing with transparent glaze, a matte shine remains on the surface; otherwise, it is no different from single-layer glaze.

Livos products

In 2003, the company, with a turnover of approximately €4 million, employed 55 employees. Now the company's products are one of the best-selling natural paints and oils on the market.

Manufacturers do not use drying agents based on cobalt salts. The most commonly used solvents are isoaliphates; despite the fact that these substances are petroleum products, they practically do not cause allergies. Some of the company's products contain orange oil and turpentine along with ethanol and water.

Typically, Livos oils are liquid in consistency with a sediment due to the small amount of wax they contain. When wood treated with Livos oil dries, it acquires a uniform silky shine.

Natural oil Koimos 196

Koimos 196 is especially interesting to test because it contains neither cobalt salts nor solvents. This is a good alternative for people who have allergies or are sensitive to chemicals.

Winfried Müller: “Is this oil as good as others? I think there will be some compromises to be made when using it. Firstly, the oil dries quite for a long time. Practical tests showed that 8 hours after applying it to a glass plate it was still liquid. After 24 hours it was quite soft. The oil finally polymerized only after 4 weeks.

Second point: even after drying, the oil remains much softer than Kunos Arbeisplattenöl or natural Kunos oil.”

Since the oil contains wax, it lends itself well to polishing; the second layer of coating is actually polishing and is - after applying it to the surface with a very thin layer (about 3 g/m2), the wood must be polished with a soft cloth, a white pad or a special machine.

Parquet oil Livos Koimos 277

The composition of Livos Koimos 277 parquet oil is practically no different from the previous composition.

For floors that are subject to heavy loads, it is worth using oil with a stronger protective film - at least for applying the finishing layer. Oil consumption is quite small - about 30–40 g/m².

Liquid oil Livos Kunos 243

This oil is suitable for treating countertops, window sills, and also for work in bathrooms. It is resistant to prolonged exposure to water, and the presence of wax makes it possible to polish to a shine.

Since 2012 (from batch No. 21281), orange oil has not been added to the composition, and now it can also be used by allergy sufferers.

To process wood, 3 layers are enough. The second and third are applied 12 and 24 hours after the first, respectively. The oil dries completely within a month after finishing coat.

Its consumption when applied in 3 layers is approximately 65–100 g/m2. For subsequent restoration of the coating, a minimum of approximately a teaspoon per m2 is sufficient.

Natural oil Livos Kunos 244 for highly loaded surfaces

Livos Kunos 244 is a universal oil in the Livos range. It is suitable for treating any surface: floors, furniture, tables (including multiplex), children's toys.

However, this is a Classic oil, so people who are sensitive to chemicals may experience allergies (this applies to processing, not subsequent use).

Natural oil can be colorless or pigmented in different colors. Colorless oil is almost no different from Kunos 241 in composition, processing technology and price.

Wood with small pores must be sanded before processing. Tests on beech showed that when finely sanded (P180), the pigments do not stain the wood, but when sanded with P120 abrasive, the color is clearly visible.

After polishing, a thin layer is formed on the surface of the wood. protective covering with a silky glossy shine.

Furniture oil Livos Darix 297

Darix is ​​very similar to colored oil, but it is also suitable for fine work to achieve more color options. After initial treatment with colorless oil, surfaces experiencing high loads must also be treated with Darix oil. This will protect the color pigments from abrasion.

As with Livos Kunos 244, pre-treatment is important: dense woods absorb pigments slowly. Testing showed that when treated with P120 abrasive, the color was better than after P180. The final result also depends on the color of the wood.

Direct comparison with Natural's glaze: Natural is applied thinner and stains the wood more strongly. You can remove the supernatant completely, but the color will still show up well.

After the first treatment and drying, the supernatant is leveled with a cloth or a dry brush. To apply the second layer, simply wipe the surface with a cloth soaked in the composition.

AURO products

The AURO company is located next to Livos and produces natural paints. After Hermann Fischer, the founder of Livos, left his post in the early 80s, he founded AURO some time later. Today he still works for AURO Aktiengesellschaft. In 1992 he was recognized as “Eco-Manager of the Year” (Capital/WWF).

In recent years, a variety of water-based products have been developed to reduce the amount of solvents in oils, varnishes and paints. This transition was not always easy. Experience shows that some water-based products do not give the best results, but they also do not negative impact on the environment. It is obvious that development will continue in this direction.

AURO refrains from using petrochemical raw materials. Orange oil is used as a solvent, if necessary.

Hard wax AURO No. 171

The consistency of AURO hard wax is pasty, slightly softer than candied honey. Contains only natural oils and waxes.

After application, the composition must be left for an hour and then polished while it is still soft. Smooth the surface with a dry brush or cloth and remove excess wax. If the surface has already been treated with oil or wax, it is enough to apply a thin layer and leave it without further polishing. A thick layer will take a long time to dry and will be sticky for a long time.

The resulting protective layer is quite hard and durable, but it should not be used for countertops due to the wax’s sensitivity to high temperature– even a hot cup will leave marks on the countertop.

Hard wax AURO No. 171 is suitable for stressed surfaces and even untreated wood. Thanks to the oils it contains, the surface of the wood becomes less susceptible to moisture, which does not happen when treated with pure wax.

After a day, the surface dries, but still not completely. The wax finally hardens after 3-4 weeks.

Attention: in an open jar, a film quickly forms on the wax. The container with wax should be closed to prevent oxygen from reaching the composition.

AURO oil for application in one layer No. 109

The composition of the product is flax, tung and milk thistle oil. The oil does not contain any resins and can be used by people allergic to rosin.

The consistency of the oil is quite viscous; in half an hour when applying the first layer on the beech surface, from 30 to 60 g/m² was absorbed (at a temperature of 20 ° C).

After application, the oil should be left for 30 minutes and then the supernatant should be removed, as after an hour surface polymerization will begin and the supernatant will be difficult to remove. And if a straight line falls on the coating sunlight, then polymerization will occur even faster.

The oil dries completely only after a month, which is quite a long time, but this is compensated by a good end result.

Solid wood oil AURO PurSolid No. 123

This oil is suitable for treating surfaces subject to increased stress: floors, furniture, work surfaces. It contains linseed, tung and thistle oils. Resins, as in the previous case, are not used, which is important for allergy sufferers.

The consistency of the oil is similar to AURO No. 109, but is less prone to polymerization within an hour. The problem, however, remains: if the “capture” process has already begun, it will be extremely difficult to remove the supernatant: even adding fresh oil does not help.

Oil is absorbed into the pores of wood longer, but the consumption is much higher: 150 g/m² - with polishing and 132 g/m² - without polishing. When applying the second layer, the consumption is minimal - about 5 g/m2.

The oil finally hardens 2–4 weeks after applying the finishing layer. The smell from it disappears completely after 6–8 weeks.

You can add a solvent to the oil (up to 20%), but the manufacturer assures that for most wood species this is not at all necessary. This may be necessary for processing species that contain a lot of resins (pine, larch).

It is worth noting: although the oil dries slowly, if you leave the jar open for several days, a jelly-like film forms on the surface.

Experiments on beech, spruce, pine, paulownia, oak, ash and walnut gave good results.

Hard primer AURO No. 127

The primer with an aqueous solvent is suitable for pre-treatment of wood before applying AURO wax No. 187 or finishing the floor with AURO No. 267. It contains flax, ricin, sunflower, rapeseed oils, rosin, mineral fillers, borates and several additives.

A test on beech showed that the original color of the wood was almost preserved: the primer does not penetrate only into the very top layer of the wood and makes it insensitive to moisture and dirt. After applying the oil, the wood should be brushed with a dry brush so that the primer penetrates completely into the wood.

After 24 hours, the surface is well dry and can be treated with abrasive. It is enough to use sandpaper P180–240, gently wiping the surface. Do not sand the wood too hard; the protective effect of the primer will be lost.

Biopin products

Biopin Biopin is the largest manufacturer of natural paints in Europe; This is not least due to attractive prices.

Some Biopin products contain water as a solvent: you can almost completely abandon other solvents, this will have a good effect on the environment, but may complicate the process of working with materials.

Many Biopin products were developed before 2009 and used orange oil as a solvent. After it was found to be an "irritant and environmentally hazardous substance", the product was reformulated. Biopin now does not use orange oil and has switched to using isoaliphates.

Natural hard wax

Usually wax is applied to an already oiled surface. The consistency is similar to cream, the smell is reminiscent of lemon.

Provides additional protection to an already treated surface. The application process is very simple: just apply the wax and rub it in with a soft cloth.

Initial drying takes from 10 to 30 minutes, the coating can be polished after 3-6 hours. Wax is relatively soft, so it should be used on surfaces that are not heavily exposed.

Oil for countertops

This oil has a very low viscosity, so it can penetrate deep into the wood. A measurement carried out by Winfried Müller showed a ratio of about 60% solvent and about 40% solid content. Previously, orange oil was used as a solvent; since 2009, isoaliphates have been used.

To apply the first layer you need a lot of composition, because it penetrates deeply into the pores of the wood. The second layer is applied more economically, so when working in two or three layers (which is how it is recommended to use oil), the consumption is small.

Both beech and spruce showed good saturation of the wood after the second coat, but for heavy-duty surfaces such as tabletops, it is recommended to work in three layers.

The oil is easy and quick to apply; it is better to remove its excess with a cloth: when applying the composition in a thin layer, a film quickly forms on the surface; too thick a layer will complicate the drying process. When in doubt, it is better to apply too thin a layer than too thick.

After treating the surface, you need to wait 15–30 minutes (the manufacturer recommends 15 minutes) and wipe off the remaining oil on the wood with a cloth.

Furniture processing oil

The composition of the oil is approximately the same as countertop oil, but resins are listed as additional ingredients.

It is suitable for any type of wood from Europe; in fact, it is a universal tool for wood processing.

After applying the oil, the surface should be left for 10 minutes (as stated by the manufacturer), and then the supernatants should be removed. Testing on wood showed that even after an hour the oil does not polymerize and is easy to wipe off.

During the application of the second coat, the oil continues to be strongly absorbed into the wood. Its total consumption is up to 150–200 g/m2, but with timely removal of the supernatant, the consumption will range from 50 to 80 g/m2, depending on the type of wood.

The oil dries quite quickly: after 3–5 hours it hardens (unlike 12–24 hours for other oils) and a second layer can be applied.

Always open the jar only briefly to ensure the oil lasts longer. Never apply directly from the can unless you plan to use the whole thing in the near future.

Solid oil

The composition of the product remains essentially unchanged: linseed and tung oil, isoaliphates as a solvent, resin. The ratio of solvent to solids is approximately 55 to 45.

The thinner the layer, the faster it becomes sticky (10–20 minutes after treatment). If you did not have time to remove the supernatant layer, you can dissolve the polymer film in fresh oil.

After polishing, the surface acquires a silky glossy shine. Since the oil contains quite a lot of resins, a protective layer is formed after two coatings.

To work with oil, you need a lint-free cloth; paper towels will not work.

For beginners, working with oil may seem difficult, but experienced users will appreciate all its advantages.

Hard wax oil

Contains: linseed and tung oil, isoaliphates as a solvent. Rosin and carnauba wax add additional properties to the oil.

After processing the wood, a waxy film appears on its surface, which remains very soft in the first few days. Hardening takes approximately 1–2 weeks: until this point the surface remains sticky.

Polishing wax that has not had time to dry is difficult: 12 hours after application, working with a cloth did not bring any results. A week later, the same surface after polishing gives a beautiful silky glossy shine.

Leinos products

Since 1986, Leinos has been one of the leading manufacturers of natural wood products. However, Leinos GmbH went bankrupt in 2007, and production under its brand is now carried out by Reincke Naturfarben GmbH from Buxtehude.

Almost all products are hypoallergenic, but a number of impregnations contain turpentine and orange oil, which can cause allergies. In other cases, isoparaffin is used as a solvent.

Leinos interior oil

This newly developed product of the company is intended for the treatment of wooden surfaces mainly in public places and retail outlets. The oil forms a strong protective film on the surface of the wood - probably due to the ingredients used: urea polycondensate and polysilicate nanoparticles.

The oil must be stirred well before application as it contains suspended solids that dissolve quickly. The supernatant must be removed within 20–45 minutes after application. After 5–8 hours, you can apply the second layer.

It finally hardens, as testing has shown, in approximately 2–5 days.

The main problem with the composition is that it is not resistant to moisture: stains appear on the surface, which is especially noticeable on beech and pine.

Leinos wood coloring oil

A liquid oil that is mixed with a reddish-brown pigment. It manifests its properties differently on various breeds wood: on beech, for example, it lays down with a warm reddish-brown tint.

Before processing, it is necessary to carry out testing - because if the wrong choice is made, the color of the wood may deteriorate.

The composition and method of application are no fundamentally different from the previous composition. It is important to know that when working with any pigmented oil, it must be stirred well before use.

Coloring oils sometimes reveal previously invisible wood structure, including defects and scratches. To ensure that the result does not disappoint, it is necessary to pay special attention to surface preparation.

Naturhaus products

Naturhaus is focused on the use of renewable and natural raw materials. The company is known as a supplier of finishing materials for large cruise ships such as the Queen Mary II, one of the largest passenger ships in the world.

Naturhaus High Solid oil

This solid oil contains virtually no solvents: it contains little orange oil (less than 5%). Nevertheless, there are drying substances - compounds of calcium, zirconium and cobalt.

The oil is easy to apply; the long polymerization period of the supernatant layer (about an hour) makes it easy to remove the supernatant.

During an hour of operation, oil consumption on beech was 84 g/m2; when applying the second layer - about 10–20 g/m2. Drying time is about 12 hours; Complete drying takes several weeks.

Where the surface is subject to severe wear, the manufacturer recommends pre-priming with hard oil.

Naturhaus hard wax for interior work

Naturhaus hard wax, close in consistency to ointment, contains carnauba wax, beeswax, and linseed oil. It does not contain solvents.

The surface should be polished 1–2 hours after applying the wax: at this time the wax is still soft and polishing will be easy.

The wax hardens quite slowly: you will have to wait 2-3 days before it becomes hard. The manufacturer talks about 12 hours, but this is too little. The wax hardens completely after 7 days.

Wax in a jar often polymerizes on the surface if oxygen access to it is not blocked.

PNZ Products

PNZ has been in business for over 20 years and has been increasingly switching to solvent-free products since 1994.

The peculiarity is that most PNZ wood oils are not based on linseed or tung oil, but contain thistle, poppy, nut and canola oils, sunflower and soybean oils.

On the one hand, this ensures the absence of a bitter odor from linseed oil. On the other hand, the used components are much more difficult to use and obtain good results from their use.

Colored oil PNZ

This is not a classic wood oil, but rather a water-based oil paint. The manufacturer indicates that one layer is often sufficient: for a water-based oil, this is a very good result.

The surface dries quite quickly: after an hour, the colored oil is usually already dry. Grinding, polishing and removal of supernatant are not possible. The oil is suitable for both internal and external work.

Hard wax PNZ

This is an oil wax product that penetrates the wood to a very shallow depth and leaves a protective layer on the surface. It is intended for use on surfaces that are subject to heavy wear: it wooden floors and countertops.

Due to its slightly thick consistency, it is also suitable for wood with large pores: even in this case, the consumption remains quite low. However, the surface must be smooth, so after drying it is necessary to polish the coating under pressure.

The supernatant must be removed 10–30 minutes after application. The sediment on the surface is vigorously wiped off with a cloth. Final polishing is carried out one day after the finishing coat. Result when correct use: homogeneous silky-glossy surface.

Beginners should not use this composition; You should at least try waxing on a small area before starting work.

And the main point regarding the composition is water resistance. Tests on beech have shown that short exposure to water has no effect on the surface. A long test (1 hour) showed catastrophic results: water penetrates into the wood, which begins to swell greatly. Ugly matte spots remain on the surface. If such an impact is possible extremely rarely, this is not critical: you can make a good partial repair - sand the surface and reapply the composition.

Wood treatment oil PNZ

The composition of the product remains virtually unchanged: flaxseed, nut, sunflower, poppy, rapeseed, tung and thistle oils. This ensures an almost complete absence of odor, which is typical for impregnations based on linseed and tung oil or containing a solvent.

On the other hand, the oil takes a long time to dry - complete hardening occurs 7-10 days after application. The coating remains relatively soft even after this period. It is much softer than after treatment with other oils - even the relatively soft thistle. Testing has shown that the coating is easily scratched by a fingernail even with slight pressure.

Although recommended for use on wood floors, this oil is not suitable for use on heavily loaded surfaces as a topcoat - only as a primer over which a hard oil or wax is applied.

Wood wax PNZ

A water-based product that more closely resembles a wax glaze. A viscoplastic layer is formed on the treated surface. protective film with silk shine.

The results of applying the first layer are not impressive: the wax is almost completely absorbed into the wood and does not give shine. The second coat after polishing gives a light silky shine.

The instructions say that the composition is well suited for treating wet rooms: the treated surface has good water-repellent properties. The test showed that even after 8 hours, water does not penetrate the wood. The staining liquid left a barely noticeable stain on the wood after 4 hours.

PNZ wood wax is heat sensitive and all it takes is a hot coffee cup to damage the surface. Therefore, the material is very conditionally suitable for processing tables and countertops.

Volvox/Ecotec products

Volvox / Ecotec is a manufacturer of natural paints that has been on the market since 1989. It is a relatively small manufacturer in Lüdenscheid.

Volvox solid oil

A classic oil containing about 60% solids and about 40% solvent (isoparaffins). The oil contains skin preventatives (possibly butanone oxymone, which many other natural dye manufacturers avoid).

Dried oil is of medium hardness: a scratch will form even if you press hard on the protective layer with your fingernail.

Products Dick GmbH

The company has been specializing in the manufacture of high-quality tools for many years; the production of oils and paints for it is a related field. Moreover, the products are 100% natural oils.

Chinese tung oil Lignea

Tung oil is found in most of the stains we've reviewed above, but in this case it's a pure oil that typically dries to a tack-free finish in a week or less without drying additives.

The oil has a rather strong odor, sometimes described as "the smell fried potatoes" It is very persistent and will appear even after many years if there is a lack of oxygen, so it is not recommended to treat the internal surfaces of cabinets and chests of drawers with tung oil.

In its liquid state, tung oil can irritate the skin, so wear protective gloves when working with it.

Swedish linseed oil Linolja

Pure flaxseed oil is available pre-oxidized or unprocessed. “Pre-oxidation” occurs by bleaching it in the sun; it dries on the surface without driers in a short time (1–3 days).

Drying of untreated oil will take more than 1 to 4 weeks, which is impractical without drier. Swedish linseed oil is said to dry out faster.

Poppy oil

Poppy oil is also completely drying; it is popular because it does not have a yellow tint and is therefore well suited for processing light-colored wood: maple, birch. It dries much slower than linseed oil.

Poppy oil is rarely used by manufacturers of natural paints: its technical properties are not as good as those of linseed or tung oil.

Commercially available poppy oil is safe and can even be used in food. But it is strictly not recommended to pour oil from a jar into a frying pan if you want to fry cutlets.

Camellia Sinensis oil

Camellia oil is a non-drying liquid with a slightly nutty odor. In Japan, it has been used for centuries to care for knives and weapons. To treat the surface of wood, oils that do not dry should not be used. An exception is kitchen boards that are regularly oiled (for example, Adam's wood boards).

Products Erzgebirge Steinert

Erzgebirge Steinert does not specialize in the production of natural paints, but its catalog includes oils developed and produced by Livos. This is due to the fact that they so closely resemble these oils both in composition and technical characteristics.

Biofa products

The production of natural paints Biofa was founded in the late 70s. Ingredient information is completely transparent, so consumers can decide for themselves what risks they are exposed to. This is especially important for allergy sufferers.

In recent years, the company has developed several solvent-free and water-free products that are nevertheless easy to use.

Working surface oil Biofa 2052

Solvent-free oil contains some microlax, which settles to the bottom. Therefore, the composition must be shaken or mixed before use. The smell is quite weak, a little nutty.

Processing is carried out as usual: after 20-30 minutes the supernatant must be removed. The oil penetrates the wood very sparingly: a test on sanded beech for an hour showed that the consumption would be 46 g/m². The second layer is almost not absorbed - less than 3 g/m².

In general, wood should be treated in 2-3 layers. Depending on how well the wood absorbs oil, even the second layer after hardening can be easily polished with a cloth. The first coat should be applied with a brush so that there is enough oil on the surface.

The composition of the oil is by no means indisputable: in addition to linseed, tung and ricin oil, it contains rosin ester, microlax, drying agents based on cobalt, zirconium and manganese salts.

It is suitable for treating countertops and can also be used as a universal furniture oil.

Oil-based formulations are a universal solution suitable for decorative finishing any wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but have a wide range of other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, and environmental friendliness. Treating wood with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product; it allows you to emphasize the natural beauty of the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.

Simple application technology allows you to avoid streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the finish can be easily removed and updated. As a rule, oil is used for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oils are most in demand?

Linseed oil – characterized by ease of application, deep penetration into the wood structure, and high resistance to environmental influences. The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Large-pore wood is treated with linseed oil in several layers.

Drying oil - This is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of driers in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes this type finishing is much more practical.

Tung oil , obtained from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, effectively emphasizes the wood texture and forms a wear-resistant matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. If linseed oil is more suitable for restoring old surfaces, then the use of tung oil is more appropriate when finishing new products.

Danish oil – finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbent substances. Treating wood with Danish oil allows you to highlight its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the composition.

teak oil – a mixture of natural oils, resins and absorbent components. Finishing wood with teak oil allows you to get a durable decorative coating with a glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours depending on the specific composition.

What is dry oil residue?

The percentage of dry oil residue is an important characteristic that determines the characteristics of the finishing composition. The dry residue refers to the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various strengthening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry residue of the product, the better covering ability it has. Accordingly, oil with a high solids content requires fewer layers of application. At the same time, the drying (polymerization) process of such compositions takes longer.

How to properly prepare the surface?

Before applying the finishing composition, the surface of the wood is sanded using abrasives of various grain sizes:

• wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
• wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives P180-P240.

The sanded surface is removed from dust with a damp, lint-free cloth. When applying finishing to oily wood species (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.

How to treat wood with oil: general principles

The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface using a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Having evenly distributed a generous amount of oil on a wooden surface, let it soak in (about 15 minutes), then wipe off the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be shiny, sticky, with possible staining.

Distribute the oil evenly to avoid spotting. Process the edges and ends first, because... due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing composition more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.

The optimal temperature for treating wood with oil is 15-25°C. At temperatures below 10°C and high humidity, it is better to temporarily abandon work.

Professional subtleties of oil application

If stains form on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.

To give the composition a more liquid consistency, necessary for uniform distribution over the surface, place the container with oil in hot water. Avoid contact with open flames.

The oil should not be applied under direct exposure to the sun, as... it will be absorbed too quickly, which in turn will complicate reprocessing.

Use a special dispenser to impregnate the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.

How does oil adhere to stain?

Oil and stain are not the best, but an acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorption of subsequent compositions, because partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, only water-based stains are allowed. At the same time, practice shows that a more effective alternative to stain in this case is tinting pastes for tinting oils.

How long does it take for oil to dry?

• flaxseed oil – 2-3 days;
• linseed oil – 24 hours;
• tung oil –24 hours;
• polyurethane oil varnish – 12 hours;
• Danish oil –4-12 hours;
• teak oil – 4-6 tsp.

Since oils harden (polymerize) during the oxidation process, reacting with oxygen, drying products should be done in a room with constant air circulation.

What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?

When they react with oxygen, oils oxidize. This process is accompanied by heating, which can cause spontaneous combustion of the cleaning cloth and other items used during the work. Therefore, never leave oil-soaked rags rolled up: dry them unfolded outside and only then dispose of them. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that have come into contact with the oil should be stored in a sealed metal container.

Wood treatment with oil – traditional way care of wooden surfaces. Oil compositions ensure the safety of the material for many years of operation, impart hydrophobic properties to the surface and protect against the development of all kinds of unfavorable processes. However, oil treatment is not as simple an operation as it seems at first glance. Applying oil products to wood has its own characteristics, without knowing which you can get a completely opposite result and ruin the coating. In this review we will focus on how to apply oil to wood, what subtleties and nuances exist in this work.

The most common oils used for wood processing:

• tung;
• teak;
• tar;
• linen

Each of the oils presented has its own characteristics, short review All means are given in the article. Here we will focus on the criteria for choosing oil, and also consider what is best to coat the wood in a given case.

1. The most popular of the products presented is flaxseed oil. It is universal and can be used both outside and inside the house. Linen impregnation is excellent for damp rooms, because... has good hydrophobic properties. The oil takes a long time to dry, up to three weeks; to speed up the process, wax is added to it. At low temperatures, the oil becomes hard, which complicates the treatment of external surfaces.
2. Tar oil is ideal for treating the facades of log and timber houses. It perfectly withstands any weather conditions and is resistant to sub-zero temperatures. In addition, it is one of the best natural antiseptics and protects external surfaces from rotting. It is not advisable to use tar impregnation indoors, since it contains turpentine.
3. Teak oil is suitable for impregnation of any surfaces, it provides effective protection from moisture, from UV radiation and others unfavorable factors. This product is also used to coat expensive wood species.
4. Tung oil is intended for treating interior surfaces. It differs from other types of oils in its faster drying rate. The oil creates a durable film that has a high water-repellent effect. Very often used for restoration of antiques.

All of the above oils are natural products; their use does not cause any adverse effects for humans. Today, mineral oil, which is based on petroleum products, is often used for surface treatment.

Manufacturers claim that synthetics are safe and can be used to treat interior spaces. However, this is not true; synthetic additives are released into the atmosphere and are harmful to health. Therefore, the use of artificial oils is permissible only externally, and only if the product has been deeply cleaned.

Selecting oil according to wood type

When choosing a specific oil, you should always consider the wood species. To determine how an oil-coated surface will look, it is necessary to test on a small area.

1. Conifers contain resins that prevent oil from penetrating into the structure, so they do not require oil impregnation. To protect the surface, if absolutely necessary, you can use thick compounds in one layer or treat wood of this species by waxing.
2. For low-density wood, alder and linden, it is also better to use thick, saturated impregnations. The use of fluid compositions is undesirable, since with deep penetration, they remain inside in a liquid state.
3. Beech and birch are characterized by high density, and therefore they are first processed liquid formulations, and then thicker ones, which have a high degree of solids, and wax.

How can you dilute the oil?

To improve one or another characteristic of the oil, various components are added to it. For example, to increase the absorption of tung oil, it is diluted by 40% with white spirit.

To increase the drying speed of linseed oil, it is mixed with turpentine in a ratio (70:30) and then heated. However, it must be taken into account that turpentine is toxic and has a pungent odor, so this composition can only be used for external treatment. Tar is less toxic and can also be added to oil to speed up the drying process.

To impregnate wooden surfaces inside the house, wax is added to the oil. It increases the water-repellent and antistatic properties of the surface and accelerates the hardening process of the oil composition.

If you want to change the color of the wood or get a more saturated shade, you can tint the oil using pigments. Tinting allows you to elevate the look wooden house, painting it in the natural tones of more valuable wood species.

If you want to give your house a color unnatural for wood (red, green, blue), add oil paints or casein-oil tempera to the impregnation. You can also dilute the oil with gouache, but in this case mixing must be done while hot to remove excess liquid from the paint.

Oil application technologies

There are three ways to paint wood with oil:

1. Vacuum impregnation. This technique is usually used in industrial settings. Such processing requires special equipment, so it is impossible to cover the surface using this technology yourself.
2. Soaking. The method involves placing the wood in heated oil, letting it sit for a certain amount of time, and then drying it. Only small wooden products can be painted in this way.
3. Layer coating. This technology is the most common. It is used to treat wooden surfaces different sizes. This method is discussed in detail below.

Preparatory work

Properly preparing the surface is 80% of success in this job. The oil is absorbed very strongly and it is impossible to hide defects under it. Any abrasions, scratches, or unevenness will remain noticeable after applying the oil. Therefore, the main task here is to bring the surface to an ideal state.

It is quite difficult to do this manually; it is advisable to use professional equipment for this - grinding machines, polishing pads. If there are no special tools, you can do the work yourself, but of course, the appearance of the surface will be far from ideal.

So what you need to do:

1. If you need to treat an old log house with oil, first of all, remove the previous coating. Paint or varnish is removed with a wire brush. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wood itself. If you can’t clean off the coating this way, you can heat it with a hair dryer; when the paint bubbles, you can remove it with a spatula.
2. Then you need to carefully sand the wood. Professionals perform this operation using a grinder with wheels of different grain sizes, which are selected based on the condition of the surface. For rough cleaning use nozzles No. 40-80, for medium - No. 100-120, for polishing - No. 150-180. If there are no machines, you can sand by hand with sandpaper of different fractions.
3. Before final polishing, all cracks and cracks must be sealed. It is necessary to putty with putty to match the color of the wood so that the patches remain invisible after applying the oil.
4. After completing the preparatory work, all dust must be removed using a construction vacuum cleaner. The remaining dust will also be visible after applying the oil, so do this work as carefully as possible.

Oil application instructions

Treatment of internal surfaces

The oil can be applied cold or hot. The application rules are the same for both options. The difference is in temperature oil impregnation. In the first case, use oil at room temperature, in the second, the composition is heated to a temperature of 80 degrees before use. It is also necessary to warm up the surface itself with a special thermal pad, since it will not be possible to saturate cold wood with hot oil; the product will not be able to be absorbed and will remain on the surface.

Regardless of the chosen method, you need to paint wood with oil in stages:

1. First, the first layer of impregnation is applied. The oil is applied with a brush or cotton fabric thin layer and evenly distributed over the surface.
2. Excess oil must be removed immediately; if this is not done, the impregnation will dry out and form a crust, which will then be very difficult to remove. To remove excess oil, you need to wipe the area with a dry cloth. You need to rub in the impregnation until the rag collects the oil. If the oil is not absorbed and is lying on the surface of the floor, you can take a rubber spatula and use it to scrape the excess into puddles, and then collect it with a rag.
3. Next, the surface is polished with a soft cloth. After this, wipe all wet areas dry with a cotton rag.
4. With the cold processing method, the application of the second layer begins no earlier than 5 hours; in some cases it is necessary to wait up to 12 hours. It depends on the type of oil. The second treatment with hot oil can be done after 2-2.5 hours, because it dries much faster.
5. Repeated processing is carried out similarly to the first, each layer must be sanded. The number of layers depends on the condition of the surface, wood species and type of oil. Usually 2-3 layers of treatment are enough.

It takes two to three weeks for the surface to completely dry; the exact period depends on the combination of the factors listed above.

Exterior treatment of the house

Applying oil to the facade of a house made of timber and logs should be done in warm sunny weather. It is advisable to prime the surface before doing this. Let's take linseed oil as an example. If the processing is carried out with flax oil, it must first be cleared of impurities, since under the influence of solar radiation the flax impregnation turns yellow.

From this article you will learn:

• What are the benefits of oiling wood?
• What types of oils are there for wood processing?
• How to properly dilute oil
• What are the methods of treating wood with oil?
• How to prepare wood for oil treatment
• What rules to follow when treating wood with oil?
• How to treat wood with simple vegetable oil
• How to treat wood with oil from a spray bottle

Perhaps in any modern house you can find quite a few wooden objects. Although their number has decreased compared to past times, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do without them completely. Like all objects, wood is subject to aging and deterioration. From this article you will learn about how to treat wood with oil to extend its service life, what advantages such wood treatment has, as well as what types of oils and processing methods exist.

Benefits of oiling wood

One of the oldest methods of processing wood is impregnation with vegetable oil.

Due to this impregnation, the moisture-resistant properties of wood are increased. Wood itself is a hydrophilic material (easily absorbs water) that swells when exposed to moisture. It can dry out and swell again, and so on many times. After going through several similar cycles (depending on the amount of water, air humidity, etc.), the wood begins to crack. And the appearance of cracks negatively affects both the mechanical and aesthetic properties of wood.

When thinking about how to treat wood with oil, keep in mind that due to such impregnation:

• the smallest pores of the wood close, polymerization of its surface occurs;
• large pores and the entire wooden surface are given hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties.

In addition, after treating wood with oil, the aesthetic appeal of the wood increases and its structure is more clearly visible. Appearance Such wooden surfaces are much more interesting than those in which the structure of the wood is not clearly visible.

Thus, when deciding how to treat wood with oil, remember that oil-based formulations are the most universal solution, which can be used if necessary decorative finishing of any wood. Despite the fact that through such processing you will not achieve the strength and wear resistance of the coating, the range of its advantages is very wide.

Oil treatment gives wooden surfaces excellent adhesion, antiseptic protection, and is also easy to apply and environmentally friendly. After such impregnation, a film does not form on wood products, but the natural beauty of the texture of the material is emphasized, allowing you to tactilely feel the texture of the wood.

Due to the ease of application, after oil treatment there are no streaks, drips, brush marks or other defects left on the surface of the products. If necessary, the impregnation can be easily washed off and reapplied. If you are thinking about how to treat wood with oil, keep in mind that this method would be better suited for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oil to treat wood with: types and features

When considering, for example, how you can treat wood with waste oil (or any other), it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the types that are used most often.

Basically, wooden surfaces are treated with the following types of oils:

• tung;
• teak;
• tar;
• linen.

1. Most often, when thinking about which oil to treat wood with, we turn to the most common among them - linseed. Due to its versatility, it can be used to impregnate surfaces not only inside, but also outside the house. Due to its excellent hydrophobic properties, linen processing is ideal for rooms with high humidity.

The drying process is quite long, it can take about three weeks. Adding wax to it helps speed up the drying time. Keep in mind that linseed oil hardens at sub-zero temperatures, so treating external parts in cold weather can be problematic.

2. Tar oil is ideal for treating the facades of houses made of logs or timber. You can work with this composition in any weather conditions, including subzero temperatures: this will not affect its properties in any way. In addition, tar oil is an excellent natural antiseptic, which means that surfaces treated with it get reliable protection from rotting. Due to the presence of turpentine in the composition, this impregnation is not always suitable for working with surfaces inside the house.

3. Teak oil can be used to treat absolutely any surface. This impregnation protects the wood from moisture, ultraviolet rays, other adverse weather factors. Teak compounds are used to treat valuable wood.

4. Wooden surfaces indoors are treated with tung oil. Unlike other types, tung has a short drying period. After this, a durable film with high water-repellent properties is formed on the surface of the wood. This impregnation is ideal for restoration work on antiques.

The oils used for treating wood described above are natural products, they are environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. Currently, wooden surfaces are also impregnated with mineral oils, which are based on petroleum products.

How to properly dilute oil

When deciding how to treat wood with oil, you will probably want to improve one or another characteristic of the impregnation. Various components can be used for this. For example, to increase the absorbency of tung oil, white spirit is added to it (in a ratio of 60:40).

You can achieve faster drying of linseed oil by mixing it with turpentine (in a ratio of 70:30) and then heating it. But as mentioned above, keep in mind that turpentine is highly toxic and has a strong unpleasant odor, so the composition is suitable for treating surfaces outside the house. Tar, which is also added to oil to speed up the drying process, has less toxicity.

Wooden surfaces indoors are treated with compounds to which wax is added. Thanks to it, the water-repellent and antistatic characteristics of the wood are enhanced, and the drying time of the oil composition is reduced.

If you add coloring pigments to the oil, you can achieve a different color or a more saturated tone for the wood. With the help of tinting, you can give the wood shades of valuable wood species, thus obtaining the noble appearance of a wooden house.

If you want to get shades that are not typical for wood (red, green, blue), the composition is diluted with oil paints or casein-oil tempera. It is also possible to add gouache, but keep in mind that in this case the composition should be mixed with paint while it is hot (then excess liquid will evaporate from the coloring matter).

3 ways to treat wood with oil

Speaking about how to treat wood with oil, we note that there are three main methods of impregnating the surface:

1. Vacuum impregnation is in most cases used in industrial production. The use of this technology requires the use of special equipment, so it will not be possible to treat wood with oil at home in this way.
2. Soaking involves placing a wooden product in a container with heated oil, keeping it in the composition for some time, and then drying it. This method is suitable for processing small wooden products.
3. Layering is the most common method for treating wood with oil. The technology can be used to impregnate surfaces, regardless of their area.

How to prepare wood for oil treatment

From proper preparation 80% of the success of the entire treatment depends on the wooden surface. Due to complete absorption, the oil will not hide any coating defects. If the wooden product has scuffs, scratches, or any irregularities, then applying the composition will not make them less noticeable. This means that preparing the product for impregnation involves bringing the surface to an ideal state.

Doing this manually is quite problematic; it is better to use professional equipment ( grinding machines, polishing pads). In the absence of special devices, manual processing is also possible, but the result will be far from ideal.

So, before you treat wood with oil, you need to prepare the surface. The algorithm of actions in this case will be as follows:

1. If it is necessary to process an old oak product, first of all you need to get rid of the previous coating. You can use a wire brush to remove paint or varnish. The work requires great care, otherwise the wood may be damaged. If the coating cannot be removed, the product is heated with a hair dryer, and after the paint bubbles, it can be removed with a spatula.
2. After this, the wood is carefully sanded. To perform this operation, professionals use special grinding machines that have wheels of varying degrees of grain size, selected depending on the condition of the surface. Rough cleaning is performed with nozzles No. 40-80, medium - No. 100-120, polishing - No. 150-180. In the absence of a grinding device, you can process the surface manually using sandpaper with different fractions.
3. Before proceeding with the final polishing, it is necessary to carefully treat the existing cracks and cracks. The putty should be selected in the appropriate color so that after covering the surface with oil it is invisible.
4. Having finished preparatory work, remove all dust using construction vacuum cleaner. Since dust will be clearly visible on the oiled wood surface, this step should be performed as carefully as possible.

How to oil interior wooden surfaces: detailed instructions

So, how to treat wood with oil? There are two ways to apply it - hot and cold. Both options require compliance with the same rules, the difference lies in the temperature of the oil composition. When using cold technology, the applied substance is at room temperature; when using hot technology, the composition is heated to a temperature of +80 °C. In addition, when using hot technology, the surface to be treated must also be heated using a special thermal pad, since the heated oil will not be absorbed into the cold wood and will remain on its surface.

Regardless of what technology you decide to use to treat wood with oil, the work is carried out in several stages:

The surface will dry completely only after two to three weeks; a combination of the factors mentioned above influences the indication of a more precise period.

How to treat wood with simple vegetable oil

The principle of operation of vegetable oils is that, being in the open air and exposed to oxygen, light and heat, they thicken, and when applied in a thin layer, they polymerize (that is, dry out), thereby becoming a semi-solid mass. These properties are characteristic of those vegetable oils that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids, for example, linoleic and linolenic acids. The higher their content, the greater the drying ability of the oil. The highest concentration of glycerides of linolenic and linoleic acids is characteristic of oils:

• linen;
• hemp.

Due to the lower content of polyunsaturated fatty acids in sunflower oil it is less effective.

Let's dwell a little more on the possibility of treating wood with linseed oil.

Let's say you decide to refinish a wooden knife handle. Most in a simple way is next - take the oil and rub the handle properly. Wait until it is absorbed, then repeat the procedure. Do this as many times as you like. If you do not strive to increase, for example, the resistance of the handle to moisture, then this procedure will be quite sufficient. If you need a greater effect, then do the following.

Fill a container with linseed oil and place a knife handle (or other wooden product to be processed) in it for several days. For example, you can use a jar with a screw-on lid that has a thin slit for the blade. It is important to seal the container tightly after placing a knife (or other product) in it.

Once the wood is completely saturated with oil, wipe it with a smooth, dry cloth and leave it for several weeks to completely dry. The evaporation of oil causes oxidation and polymerization of the surface of the product, due to which it acquires strength and elasticity.

You probably noticed that the drying time for the oil composition when treating wooden surfaces is several weeks. This is due to the fact that even a high content of linolenic acid does not allow vegetable oil in his natural form oxidize faster.

To reduce the time required for drying, it can be subjected to heat treatment, during which metal compounds (driers) are added to its composition. During heating, substances that slow down drying decompose, while metal salts promote faster oxidation.

There are several ways to speed up the oil polymerization process. In the first case, purchase linseed oil and drier from an art store. Heat treatment can be achieved through friction: thoroughly rub the composition into the surface of the wooden product, for example, for at least 30 minutes. This is a simple and fast method.

Another way to reduce the drying time of the oil is to add turpentine to it (in a 1:1 ratio). This liquid is a mixture essential oils obtained by extraction from resins coniferous trees(that is, from resin).

In this case, the surface drying time can be reduced to one to two weeks. Keep in mind that when working with turpentine, you must be careful not to allow it to come into contact with the skin, avoid inhalation, and especially ingestion.

If your goal is not to speed up the drying process of the surface, but to change its color, then you can add tar to the oil (in a 1:1 ratio). This liquid is a product of dry distillation of wood (that is, burning wood without air). In fact, it can be called a kind of analogue of turpentine, but rougher and less toxic.

You can treat the wood with linseed oil and wax. To do this, the latter must be dissolved in the oil composition using a water bath (it’s a good idea to have a fire extinguisher nearby). The surface treated in this way is not only oiled, but also waxed, due to which the water-repellent characteristics of the wood are significantly increased.

Where to buy decking oil for wood

JSC Raduga has been operating since 1991 (formerly Tsentrmebelkomplekt, Decor-1). The company was organized to supply raw materials to enterprises that are part of ZAO Centromebel.

Today, the company's regular business partners are not only Russian manufacturers, but also leading companies from Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland, Finland, Poland, and Sweden. Our office is located in the center of Moscow, as well as our own warehouse complex with an exhibition hall of 200 m².

Always in stock at our warehouses located in the near Moscow region big choice raw materials, supplies and components for the production of furniture and carpentry. The assortment includes more than 300 types of varnishes and 400 types of dyes, with an emphasis on the sale of varnishes and dyes with a dry residue.

Based on customer requests, our team produces polyurethane enamels in almost all colors in one or two days. We offer adhesives from five leading European manufacturers, natural veneer and lumber - more than 60 types of ordinary, exotic and exclusive species. Front and fastening fittings are constantly available - more than 4,000 items from manufacturers from Europe: Austria, Poland, Germany, etc.

Every month we process applications from more than 1,800 clients. These include both large furniture factories and private entrepreneurs.

Deliveries of goods are carried out throughout Russia. Our company delivers goods throughout Moscow for free. Products are sent by car in all regions of Russia.

Our company takes the training of its own specialists seriously. Managers systematically undergo internships in those involved in production finishing materials companies in Germany, Italy, Austria, Finland. Our company employees provide technical assistance to clients.

We invite you to cooperate on mutually beneficial terms! We value our clients and try to find an individual approach to each buyer.