The operation of buildings and structures without an installed effective eastern system leads to critical destruction of very important architectural elements. First of all, the basements suffer, then the foundation and base of the building begin to collapse. The load-bearing capacity of these structures is significantly reduced, as a result of which cracks appear on the facade walls.
But this is not all the problems caused by increased soil moisture near the house. With a significant increase in the amount of water during freezing, soil swelling far exceeds the calculated maximum values. If the foundation has a large margin of safety and the building is built from lightweight materials, then only minor problems with opening/closing windows and doors may be observed. But if the walls are made of masonry bricks, and the foundation does not have such significant reserves of strength, then cracking of the walls is inevitable. Consequence - destruction load-bearing structures and elements, inevitable very complex and expensive repairs.
The destruction of the facade of a house in the absence of a drain is a matter of time
Important. When designing houses, no one takes into account the influence of the above factors in the strength of the foundation due to the lack of a drainage system. Such a huge reserve bearing capacity greatly increases the estimated cost of construction. It is always taken into account that there is a blind area around the house, and all water from the roof is discharged far beyond the foundation or into special sewerage networks. Today, for these purposes, companies produce very effective, durable and reliable drainage systems.
Prices for gutters
Gutters
The huge number of design models is divided into two large groups depending on what material they are made of.
| System type | Brief description of physical and technological characteristics |
|---|---|
| Such systems can be made from very expensive copper and other non-ferrous alloys or relatively cheap galvanized sheet steel. In all respects, they occupy a leading position and are far ahead of plastic products. The only drawback is the high cost. Because of this, metal drainage systems can only be seen on prestigious houses; they can be installed on places of worship, used for the reconstruction of historical buildings. |
| Cheaper design, has a lot of original design and engineering solutions. Individual elements can be assembled using special locks or glued; each method has its pros and cons. Advantages: speed of assembly and comparative cheapness. Disadvantage: low mechanical strength. |
We will focus on plastic systems in more detail. These gutters are used much more often than metal ones and have a pleasant appearance, subject to the recommendations of the manufacturers, can be used for at least ten years.
But such performance properties can be expected only under one condition - it is manufactured by a well-known company that respects its customers. How not to make a mistake when choosing what to pay attention to?
Prices for different types of plastic gutters
Tips for choosing a plastic drainage system
This is extremely important question, has a great influence not only on the durability of operation, but also on installation technology. Before purchasing a system, you should complete the following steps.
- Ask the seller to show quality compliance documents. There is no need to ask for certificates, as most domestic buyers are used to; for our money we must demand respectful treatment. Moreover, the average cost of a plastic drainage system is approximately 30% of the total cost of roof covering, which is a lot of money. The exact values depend on the type of roofing materials, but for the most common budget roofs this ratio is maintained.
- Carefully inspect the appearance of the system elements. If depressions are visible on the surface, then it is made of recycled plastic, worn-out molds are used in production, or technology is grossly violated. The most unpleasant option for consumers is made from recycled materials. This plastic has already served its purpose and has lost its original properties due to physical aging; intermolecular bonds have significantly weakened due to harsh ultraviolet training. Unscrupulous manufacturers crushed it, added dyes and used it again in production. You need to know that such systems will certainly fall apart after a few years of operation.
- Check the operation of the locking mechanisms. All connections must be made with maximum precision. The tolerance does not exceed tenths of a millimeter; this is the only way to guarantee the quality of the system, its tightness and stability. If individual elements fit into each other too easily, or vice versa, they can be pushed in with great effort, then this is a sign of very low quality construction. You shouldn't buy one, no matter how attractive the price. During installation, many difficult and unforeseen situations will arise; in some cases, serious mechanical breakdowns or critical damage are possible.
Conclusion. The higher quality the system, the easier it is to install and the longer it will last.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic drainage system
As an example, we will consider the installation technology of one type of system famous manufacturer. The name and brand don't matter Various types There are almost no differences in the installation algorithm. To carry out the work you will need a hacksaw, self-tapping screws of various lengths and diameters, a screwdriver, measuring tools, a bubble level, a tapping rope, a felt-tip pen, and silicone spray.
Important. Some manufacturers allow installation of military systems at sub-zero temperatures. Experienced builders categorically do not recommend listening to such advice; all plastic structures should be installed only at temperatures above +5°C.
Step 1. Check the completeness of the system. The kit should include the following items.
- Gutter Can have different diameters from 90 to 180mm. The size should be chosen taking into account the maximum amount of water, but for most cases a gutter with a diameter of 90-100 mm is used.
- Bracket for fixing the gutter. When purchasing, determine the quantity based on 60 cm increments. Add one more - it is better to provide for a reserve than to visit the store again later. The brackets can be metal (fixed to the rafters and sheathing boards) or plastic (screwed to the eaves boards).
- Plugs. They are installed at the ends of the gutters; they can be on the left or right end.
- receives water from gutters and discharges it into pipes.
- Corners of the gutter. Change the direction of the gutters.
- Knees and corners. They connect several pipes into one and change their direction.
- Pipe mounting brackets, fix them to the facade walls.
Step 2. Mark the location of the drainage system on the house.
Marking the funnel position
During marking, several prerequisites must be met:
- the projection of the slope should pass above the upper edge of the gutter, distance ≈ 0–2 cm;
- the vertical projection of the edge of the slope should be located at a distance of ≤ 1/3 of the width of the gutter from its axis of symmetry;
- maximum distance between the first bracket and the water inlet ≤ 15cm.
Step 3. Attach the first end bracket to the curtain rod. The bracket holes are elliptical in shape, which allows you to accurately adjust the position of the element. Level it horizontally, the gutter should touch it with its entire surface, such contact reduces concentrated loads. And they are very afraid of plastic products.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Step 4. Secure the roof slab end bracket. During fixation, you must always maintain the slope of the gutter, otherwise water will stagnate in it, vegetation will grow over time, leaks will appear, etc. The slope should be ≈ 3 mm per meter. If the length of the slope is 10 m, then the difference in height between the first and last bracket is approximately 3 cm. Long slopes need to be divided into sections and several water intakes installed. If this is not observed, then it will not be possible to maintain the projections of the slope and the upper edge of the gutter recommended above. Because of this a large number of rain and melt water will spill past the drainage system.
Step 5. Stretch a rope between the installed brackets; it indicates the correct position of all the others.
After this, you can begin to assemble the gutter elements, this is a very important task, work carefully. You should always remember that after you start using the house, fixing problems with the drainage system is much more difficult than following the recommendations for proper installation.
Gutter assembly
Important. To increase the tightness of the joints of plastic drainage system It is recommended to additionally seal them with a special silicone spray. It performs two functions.
- During assembly, it reduces friction between the plastic and the rubber seal. The insert is not damaged and does not move from its technological place.
- After hardening, it additionally seals the connection and significantly improves the quality of drainage installation.
Step 1. Turn the gutter upside down. Use a hacksaw to saw off the gutter to length.
Step 2. Install the gutter into the prepared brackets and the water inlet funnel. Secure with special latches.
Important. Please note that the funnel is attached to the bottom of the entire gutter, and is not used as an independent load-bearing element. This engineering solution increases the reliability and durability of the structure.
Step 3. If the length of the gutter is not sufficient, then special connecting elements must be used to extend it. In this case, a gap is always left to level out the temperature linear expansions of the drainage system. The connecting elements have dashes; with their help, the correct initial gap between the ends of the gutters is selected, taking into account the air temperature at which the installation is made.
Step 5. In the corner of the building, turn the gutter. Select an element depending on its meaning. Always use a special silicone spray; responsible manufacturers sell it as part of the system.
Step 6. Install end caps.
Now we need to fix the vertical pipes.
Important. Never fix drainpipes close to the walls; always leave a gap of at least five centimeters. Otherwise, the surface of the wall will be constantly damp, and fungus may appear on it.
Pipe fastening
Step 1. Install an elbow into the socket of the water inlet funnel, turn it in the desired direction and secure the position with a special self-tapping screw. If the distance from the end of the elbow to the wall is too large, you will have to additionally insert a piece of pipe. It is cut with an ordinary hacksaw or grinder from a standard pipe. The hangnails need to be removed.
Step 2. Put on the second elbow; it helps give the pipe a vertical direction. Attach the first bracket to the wall. The fastening can be with dowels or self-tapping screws; choose an option depending on the characteristics of the façade walls. The first bracket should be no further than 15 cm from the knee.
Step 3. Pull the thread and use it to mark the locations of the remaining brackets. The last one is located near the drain to the ground, and the rest are symmetrical with a maximum step of 1.8 m.
Step 4. Secure all the brackets into the drilled holes, assemble the pipe and secure it.
Prices for aluminum stairs
Aluminum ladder
The first option is simple, cheap and more or less acceptable. The second option is long, expensive, but very effective.
What to choose is decided by each developer individually. But it is much better to do this at the stage of designing a house, especially if there is a desire to connect the drainage system to underground utilities.
Video - Installation of a plastic drainage system
The drain is an integral element of the roof, the main task of which is to collect and remove precipitation. There are the most different materials manufacturing structures, but recently plastic gutters have begun to gain popularity. And we'll tell you why.
The main advantages of the plastic drainage system
To begin with, we need to note the high reliability of plastic products. This factor is one of the most important, since even with the minimum cost of the entire system, its installation and repair can be quite complex. Judging by this criterion, gutters made of galvanized steel are no longer so attractive, but plastic, on the contrary, has all the necessary qualities. For example, the service life of such products reaches an average of 20-25 years, while during the entire period of operation all parts of the structure retain their characteristics with minimal maintenance.
The second important advantage is climate resistance. If we talk about metal, then it, being exposed to water and air, begins to become covered with rust over time - steel products are protected from the appearance of red spots by a thin layer of a special coating. If there are cracks and scratches, the coating loses its protective properties, and the entire drain becomes covered with rust from the inside. Plastic gutters do not require any protection and do not lose their properties even in a wide temperature range (from –40°C to +50°C).
Also an important feature of modern plastic pipes for drainage is resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which has a negative effect on most synthetic materials. Another advantage is that plastic has low adhesive properties, and therefore ice will not accumulate in such a drain. Plastic gutters can also come in a variety of appearances. This question is very relevant, since they are an important element of the building’s decoration and can not only decorate the facade, but also ruin it.
Plastic products open up the widest possibilities for designers, since you can easily choose not only the color, but also the shape of the products.
The fourth and quite important advantage of plastic roof drainage systems is that they are extremely lightweight - there is no point in comparing them with metal systems. In addition, the low weight of the products greatly facilitates their installation. So, in order to correctly assemble and install the system, you do not need to have specialized knowledge and equipment - even a non-specialist can cope with the work, and this will not in any way affect the service life of the pipes.
Are there any disadvantages to plastic products?
Plastic gutters have not only visible advantages, but also disadvantages, which also need to be remembered when choosing a material. The main disadvantages include the following:
Stages of installation of plastic drainage
Plastic gutters are installed in several stages. First of all, you need to determine the installation location of the funnels, after which the length and required number of gutters and pipes themselves are calculated.
If you use a funnel as a load-bearing structural element, you must first install it. Otherwise, you cannot do without installing brackets to fix the gutter on the front board. By the way, the brackets can be adjusted when fastening, making it easy to achieve the required gutter slope (about 3-5%). The distance between the brackets should not be less than 0.5 m, and they must be in contact with the gutter.
The installation of the gutter itself begins from the receiving funnel, and all elements of the system are fastened together either with couplings or with special glue. The next step is to install drainpipes and fix them to the wall using couplings. Don't forget to protect the gutter from debris by using a mesh that is placed inside the gutter and secured with plastic clips.
An unusual solution - installing a drain made of plastic bottles
Roof drainage system plastic products is enough original version, which can be used for various outbuildings on the site, sheds, outbuildings or. The main condition is a large number plastic bottles. The required quantity can be calculated quite simply, since to set up the system we only need the central part of the container, the length of which is on average 20 cm - whatever the length of the pipe is, take that many bottles.
Since in the system water leaves the pipes under the influence of gravity, experts recommend taking bottles whose central part does not have protrusions or other obstacles to water. Otherwise in winter time A layer of ice crust will begin to accumulate inside the drain, which can cause destruction of the system. PET bottles with a cylindrical middle part work best. It is advisable to choose a dark color so that small debris and leaks inside the pipe are not visible. To implement
We also need a construction stapler, with which we will connect the elements of our structure, and wire to attach the structure itself to the roof. And, of course, scissors and a knife - these tools will be needed to cut plastic containers. We will use the flat cylindrical part as a horizontal gutter, and instead of plugs that will not allow water to pass further, it is best to take bottles with the back part intact.
How to install a drain from plastic bottles - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Preparatory stage
We measure the length of the pipe and create a simple drawing of the future structure. Despite the fact that the drain will be located almost under the roof, you need to put all the bottles in order - clean them of dirt and wash off the labels, for which simply soak the container for 1-2 hours in a warm soapy solution. Cut off the bottom and neck of each container. To get part of the gutter, cut one of the resulting cylinders along the seam - you should end up with a folded plastic rectangle.
Step 2: Connecting the parts and installing the drain
We connect all the details of our design using construction stapler overlap in such a way that the double strip is at least 1 cm. For reliability, you can make several holes in the overlap strip by stitching it with wire. If you are afraid that water will seep through them, at first you can cover them with plasticine - after a while everything will become covered with dirt, forming a natural insulation.
Next we attach the gutter to the roof. We make holes at equal distances in the slate and in the gutter, using a soldering iron for this. The main thing is that the holes are located opposite each other. We thread the wire through them and twist them well. Thus, the entire drain will be held on the wire retainer.
Step 3: Create an Elbow
To prevent water from flowing down the walls, you cannot do without a drain. To do this, cut off the neck of one of the bottles, and make a cylinder from the second (remove the bottom and neck). The bottles need to be connected, and from the first it is necessary to cut a hole of the same diameter as the other containers - the edge of the gutter will fit there.
What you need to pay attention to when installing a steel gutter.
Firstly, water freely flowing from the eaves of the roof will fall on the walls of the house, and any material will suffer from this, be it brick, concrete, wood or cement plaster.
Secondly, moisture will inevitably seep into the ground, which over time can lead to subsidence of the blind area and even the foundation of the house.
Thirdly, in the absence of high-quality waterproofing of the foundation, water will get into the underground rooms of the house - the basement or subfloor, because of this the structures will rot, and the microclimate in the house itself will deteriorate.
Finally, it is worth noting the decorative properties of the drain, gutter and pipes - traditional architectural elements buildings, thanks to their presence the house looks more aesthetically pleasing and solid. If your home still doesn't have a gutter system, it's not too late to install one. You can do this yourself, but it is better to turn to professionals; based on the catchment area, they will calculate the required number of gutters and pipes, as well as their diameter, and select the necessary fasteners and parts to ensure the rigidity of the structure.
For the production of drainage systems today, galvanized steel with a polymer coating, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), copper and zinc-titanium alloy are used. Each of the materials has its own characteristics. Steel gutters remain the most common.
They are affordable, but when purchasing them, you need to pay close attention to the thickness of the metal and the type of polymer coating; resistance to corrosion, mechanical stress, ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes largely depends on the latter. PVC drainage systems are widely used; they are inexpensive, non-corrosive, resistant to precipitation and UV radiation, as well as mechanical damage. Their weak point is that the color fades under the sun's rays; after 2-3 years, plastic gutters lose their appearance.
Pipes and gutters made of copper and zinc-titanium look respectable, and they are practically resistant to corrosion. However, the cost of such gutters is quite high, and they require the most careful handling, since both copper and zinc are soft metals.
What you need to pay attention to when installing a steel gutter.
First, we must take into account the characteristics of the material. During installation and during operation, steel gutters and pipes are relatively easy to scratch and bend. In most cases, bent parts cannot be restored to their original appearance and must be replaced. Deep scratches must be coated polymer paint to avoid rust.How do plastic drainage systems behave during installation and operation?
PVC drainage systems have proven themselves to be excellent. Compared to steel ones, they are not subject to corrosion and make much less noise when it rains. In addition, plastic has “shape memory”, that is, it is able to take on its original configuration after deforming loads. The presence of plasticizing additives allows PVC gutters to maintain high impact resistance even at subzero temperatures. However, plastic gutters also have weaknesses.The main disadvantage is a significant change in size with temperature changes (the change in length is approximately 0.7 mm per 1 linear meter with a temperature fluctuation of 10°C).
To level it out, special compensation elements and constructive measures are needed. A less serious, but unpleasant for owners, minus is the loss of the original color of plastic parts (the side of gutters and pipes facing the sun acquires an ashen tint over time). The more expensive the gutter, the higher its color fastness; cheap products lose their appearance after 2-3 years.
Which gutter is best for composite shingles?
The most harmonious combination with composite tiles will be metal, especially copper or zinc-titanium (an alloy of zinc with a small amount of copper and titanium). These materials have a noble appearance; over time they become covered with a patina, but often they are already sold “aged”. Copper and zinc-titanium are practically resistant to corrosion, but copper, compared to steel, has a higher thermal expansion, which must be compensated for by design measures, for example, the use of special brackets. Often in the range of parts for such systems there are special fasteners with seals. Transportation and installation of gutters made of copper and zinc-titanium must be carried out with great care - if the parts are bent, it will be very difficult for them to return to their previous shape due to the softness of the material. The drainage system includes a whole set of elements, primarily gutters and pipes, as well as fastening brackets, connecting parts, plugs, corners, elbows, funnels, overflow limiters, drainage ladders, mounting clamps, etc. As a rule, they are available for sale gutters with a diameter of 125, 132, 150, 170, 180 mm and pipes - 82, 87, 90, 100,110 mm. The most common length of gutters and pipes is up to 4 m.As for the remaining parts, their availability in the kit depends on the manufacturer. The wider the range, the easier it will be to install a drainage system on a roof with a complex configuration. When purchasing brackets, be sure to ask what type of installation they are designed for and whether they will suit you - you often come across those that can only be used for fastening to eaves overhang or only to the first row of the sheathing.
Pay attention to additional accessories; they will make the drain more reliable. Thus, a special mesh insert that protects against fallen leaves will prevent the pipe from clogging. When drawing up an estimate, take into account all the elements you need - the total price of fasteners may be higher than the cost of pipes and gutters.
Details of the drainage system: 1-8 - gutter holders; 9.11 - gutters; 10 - gutter connector; 12 - plug; 13 - connector bracket; 14 - funnel; 15,16 - corners of the gutter; 17.19 - elbows, 18 - pipe; 20-collector pipe with spout; 21,22 - gutter overflow limiters; 23,24 - pipe clamps. 25 - pipe; 26 - tee; 27 - coupling; 28 - universal adapter; 29.32 - drainage trawls; 30 - clamp bracket; 31 - drain elbow.
How to determine the size and number of gutters and pipes?
When planning a drainage system, you should focus mainly on the catchment area. This refers to either the area of the roof slope or the projection of the slope onto a horizontal surface. Any serious company has technical documentation, containing information on what catchment area pipes and gutters of certain diameters are designed for. Thus, German companies, in accordance with the DIN 18460 standard, determine the number of parts as follows:From a roof with a slope projection area of no more than 150 m2, water can be drained through one pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a gutter with a diameter of 150 mm. It should also be taken into account that the throughput of the pipe depends on the diameter, length and number of gutters that it serves. There are other factors that influence throughput drainage system, such as roof configuration, length and slope of the slope.
It is recommended to install the drainage system in two stages: during roofing works hang gutters, and after finishing the walls, install pipes.First stage (installation of gutters).
1. Attach the first gutter holder so that the outer edge of the gutter is 30 mm below the roof line (support wedges are used to compensate for the slope of the wind board).
2. Align the last holder at the water level 20 mm below the first (total length of the gutter is 6 m).
3. Pull the cord between the shelves of the outer holders and, guided by it, screw the remaining holders.
4. Make markings and use a hacksaw to cut out a hole for the water inlet funnel.
5. Glue the funnel and gutter plugs with dichloroethane-based glue.
6. Install the gutter by sequentially snapping it into the holders.
Second stage (piping fastening).
7. Drill holes in the walls, screw the brackets with screws 120 mm long and 6 mm in diameter, and attach the pipes to them using clamps.
8. From two elbows and a pipe, assemble a “swan neck”. Use glue to attach the drain elbow.
Water should be diverted from the house by at least 3-4 m. Under no circumstances should it be left to drain onto the blind area, then it will inevitably leak into the basement and into the foundation. Consequently, installing a drain will not bring the desired benefit. In addition to the drainage system itself, it is necessary to provide a water drainage system. The easiest option is to arrange surface drainage along the blind area. This will require ready-made drainage channels with protective grilles made of corrosion-resistant materials (polymer concrete, plastic). If groundwater lie high on the site, a closed drainage system is preferable (to drain the soil around the house) with point surface receivers under the spouts of roof drainage pipes. Drainage systems allow you to direct water into roadside ditches or into a receiving well on the site.
Does the drainage system need maintenance in winter?
In winter, the drainage system is subject to heavy loads. Snow sliding down the roof slope accumulates in gutters. The water formed when the snow melts flows there and forms ice dams. Icicles hanging from gutters can cause structural deformation over time. Optimal solution problems - installation of an anti-icing system consisting of heating cables. They are used along the edges of the roof, gutters and drainpipes. But such a system is quite expensive and also requires certain energy costs. Therefore, it will be cheaper and easier to adhere to certain rules.The first is to properly insulate the roof, ensuring ventilation of the under-roof space.
The second is to place the fasteners for gutters and pipes in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
An additional, but by no means superfluous, measure is to install snow-retaining edges along the edges of the slopes.
[email protected]
Is the work of the roof drainage system almost invisible? until water begins to flow from the gutters under the threshold and foundation of the house. The cause of leaks may be depressurization of seams or a defect in the drain itself. Sometimes this happens if, during the installation of the drain, no sealant was used at all due to savings. Using the same sealant again will help correct both problems, but the entire system will have to be disassembled and reassembled.
The most suitable sealants for installing gutters
A good place to start when reviewing gutter sealant is to determine what the substance is. Their appearance resembles a thick mastic or paste. The viscosity of the sealant is given polymer additives or oligomers. Mastic is applied to any joint, as a result of which the joint is sealed. After hardening, the sealant firmly adheres to the surface of the treated object. It turns out a kind of waterproofing of the seam of the connected parts, preventing the penetration of moisture.
On the shelves of retail outlets you can find a huge variety of sealants for different types works In wide consumption, 4 types of mastic are usually used, made on the basis of different components. We will now try to find out which of them is better suited for sealing gutters.
One of the most used sealing mastics is silicone sealant. After it hardens, a strong elastic seam is formed on the surface of the object. Mastic may be white or transparent. The base of the paste is silicone rubber. For ease of use, it is most often sold in plastic tubes with a capacity of 310 mm. It is enough to insert the container into a special nozzle-gun, and you can use the sealant. Sometimes you can find other packaging of paste on the shelves, for example, like tubes of toothpaste.
Silicone sealant is produced in two types:
- Acetate composition Designed for use on objects with a smooth surface. Mastic is characterized by a pungent odor, however, it tends to dissipate quickly.
- Neutral composition has less adhesion strength to the surface of the object, so it is often used for interior work. Mastic is ideal for the bathroom and kitchen. Adheses well to tiles, wood, and glass.
Silicone sealant is often used in the assembly of verandas, greenhouses, drainage systems and other structures where waterproofing of seams is required.
Any acrylic-based sealant is less elastic than silicone, but adheres well to plastic. However, acrylic has a significant disadvantage - it dissolves in water. Acrylic sealant is not suitable as a mastic for connecting gutters. Moisture intolerance is explained by the base of the mastic, which consists of an aqueous dispersion. This kind of pasta would be better suited, as a sealant for sealing seams of any structure. These can be cracks in door and window jambs, as well as any other non-damp places.
Now in retail outlets you can find white acrylic sealants with the inscription - moisture resistant. The mastic is truly resistant to moisture after complete hardening. However, such contact can only be short-term. Even a frozen acrylic layer will dissolve from long-term exposure to water. Moisture-resistant acrylic caulk is not suitable for sealing or patching gutters. It is not even advisable to use mastic in the kitchen and bathroom.
The basis of polyurethane mastic is a polymerized resin. The sealant can withstand low temperatures. It is successfully used for sealing interpanel joints and double-glazed windows of buildings with a swimming pool or winter garden.
Polyurethane mastic is produced in two types:
- Sealing paste Designed for use on dry surfaces. This is a kind of sealant. This sealant is not suitable for gutters.
- Waterproofing paste Can be used in a humid environment and even be in contact with water for a long time. This type of polyurethane sealant is suitable for treating drain joints.
Polyurethane mastic is often used to seal roofs, but for these purposes a substance with a hardness index of PU 15 is used. The sealant is characterized by rapid hardening, resistance to moisture and chemicals, long service life. The frozen substance can be successfully painted.
Attention! Among other mastics, polyurethane sealant is considered the best due to its versatility of use. The paste has excellent adhesion to wood, metal, and tile roofing.
The only drawback of the sealant is its high cost. Because of this, polyurethane paste is practically not used when installing drainage systems.
The basis of mastic is modified bitumen. Thanks to the addition of a metal pigment, some types of bitumen pastes have an aluminum tint. The scope of application of the sealant is wide: sealing and sealing of chimneys, drains, air ducts, ridges, as well as other structures.
Bitumen pastes are characterized by increased resistance to water and good elasticity. The mastic has increased adhesion to the wet surface of the object, and after hardening it can be painted. Affordable price made sealant popular in the installation of drainage systems. Among many brands, Icopal sealant is in high consumer demand due to its high quality.
There are bitumen pastes specifically designed for roofing. They are even resistant to gasoline, solvent, machine oil and other chemicals.
The disadvantage of bitumen pastes is considered to be an unattractive black color, even despite the addition of pigments. Plus - bitumen is afraid of exposure high temperatures, from which it begins to melt.
Attention! All bitumen-based sealants are toxic. They can only be used for outdoor work.
Butyl based mastic is ideal solution sealing joints with drainage. The paste has excellent adhesion to aluminum, PVC, galvanized, and tolerates painting with latex and oil paint. White sealant is characterized by high elasticity, resistance to moisture and negative temperatures. In addition to sealing seams, the paste is ideal for restoring deformed gutters. Sealant can be used to seal small cracks and even small holes.
Attention! The sealant can be used at sub-zero temperatures, but in order for the paste to be better squeezed out of the tube, it must first be kept at room temperature.
The instructions for using the sealant are simple:
- It is optimal to work with mastic at temperatures above +4 o C. Old accumulations of paint, putty and other dirt are removed from the surface of the workpiece. If the metal drain has corroded, the rust is removed with a metal brush. The completely cleaned surface is left to dry.
- The tube kept at room temperature is inserted into the gun. The plastic tip has notches, each of which is designed for a certain thickness of mastic extrusion. With a sharp knife cut off the tip tip according to the required notch, and also remove the membrane at the end of the tube thread that prevents the sealant from being squeezed out.
- Having screwed the tip onto the thread of the cylinder, they begin to squeeze the sealant onto the drain joint with the trigger of the gun. When sealing a hole with a diameter of more than 12 mm in the gutter, apply a splint made from a piece of plastic or metal.
The paste will begin to harden after 5 minutes. During this time, it is necessary to remove the protruding excess at the joints of the gutters, and where patches were installed, the mastic is smoothed with a scraper. The joint will gain full strength in 5 days, but the frozen layer can be painted within a day. The sealant can also be used in a damp environment, but the polymerization time increases by 10%. The approximate consumption of sealant for a layer thickness of 6.5 mm is 10 lm. If it is necessary to remove the hardened layer, use a cleaner from the same company or any mineral solvent.
When is it necessary to use sealant when installing gutters?
The use of sealant to connect the joints of gutters is justified if they self-made. Often, to save money, gutters are cut out of PVC sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. The joints of each such gutter are fastened with self-tapping screws, and to prevent them from leaking, they are additionally coated with silicone or bitumen sealant.
Factory gutters are equipped with connecting locks with rubber seals. A strong connection does not leak even without mastic treatment. But for reliability, it doesn’t hurt to lubricate the seal with the same silicone. Typically, the contents of 1 tube with a capacity of 0.3 liters are enough for 10 locks.
The video shows the process of sealing the roof and gutters:
Regardless of the quality of the drains, depressurization of the seams will lead to disruption of the entire system. Saving on sealant is unreasonable and unprofitable.
Quite often, when choosing a drainage system, the question arises: which one to install - plastic or metal. Very often, one of the reasons for refusing plastic gutters is that they burst in winter.
Let's figure out if this is really the case and why it happens.
Let us note right away: indeed, sometimes plastic gutters burst, but this does not mean at all that they are of poor quality or worse than metal ones.
Any material contracts or expands when temperature changes. For example, frozen water turns into ice and increases in volume. The same thing happens with gutters, only without changing their state of aggregation - they change size. The coefficient of linear expansion of plastic is much greater than that of steel, that is, the plastic drain changes its size depending on temperature changes environment more than steel. The coefficient of linear expansion is an important parameter that must be taken into account when installing and operating a drain.
Different manufacturers of plastic systems have different installation technology: some use adhesive connections, others use connections with rubber seals. In the first case, all elements are rigidly fixed to each other with glue, which prevents the system from “walking.” When installing such a drainage system, it is imperative to install special elements that will compensate for these expansions. In the second case, the role of expansion elements is performed by connecting elements with rubber seals, which eliminate leaks at the joints and at the same time maintain the mobility of the system.
To increase the service life of rubber seals, manufacturers recommend using silicone; it prevents premature aging of the rubber seals and ensures free sliding of the elements during expansion. It is important to clarify that you need to use silicone paste; it acts as a lubricant for the rubber bands, and not silicone sealant, which hardens after some time.
Let's look at a real situation: we install a gutter on the eaves of a house 10 m long in the summer at a temperature of 20 ° C. The coefficient of linear expansion of plastic (polyvinyl chloride) is 70 * 10 -6 °C -1. In winter, the temperature drops to -20 °C, i.e. the temperature difference was 40 °C. With such a change in temperature, the change in the length of a 10-meter plastic gutter will be (10 m * 40 °C * 70 * 10 -6 °C -1) 28 mm!
Under the same conditions, the change in the length of the metal gutter will be only 4.8 mm (Coefficient of linear expansion of steel 12 * 10 -6 °C -1).
This is theory, but what in practice? In practice, when a plastic drain has nowhere to expand or contract, it does so anyway, resulting in the most loaded elements, for example, the corners of gutters, bursting.
During operation, it is necessary to maintain drainage systems: remove leaves accumulated in pipes and gutters. If this is not done, leaves and any other debris impede the movement of rainwater, which accumulates in the elements of the drainage system, and when it freezes, all this turns into ice, which, as already said, expands in volume, which is why deformation occurs, and elements burst.
Expansions also occur in steel gutters, but due to the fact that they are not so significant, and steel is stronger than plastic, the drainage elements do not burst.
So, we have figured out two main reasons why winter period Plastic gutters burst:
1. The inability of the drain to expand linearly with temperature changes;
2. “Garbage” in the system that prevents water from draining from the drain.
To avoid such problems, in the first case it is enough to follow the installation instructions of a specific manufacturer: use expansion elements; use adhesives and sealants only for those elements for which such a need is indicated. In the second case, it is necessary to inspect and maintain gutters 2 times a year - in spring and autumn before the onset of frost.
We hope that our article will help you choose a drainage system and avoid problems with its operation in the future.
Author: Ruslan Bakhmat
Number of impressions: 1423
Date created: 10/30/2017 16:19:49
Tags:
