If you want to enjoy the warmth in your home and at the same time protect it from fire, try building a classic brick chimney; building such a structure with your own hands is relatively simple. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology of its construction.

In any private home where one or another operates autonomous system heating, a structure must be installed that removes fuel combustion products. Now there are a lot the latest solutions, allowing to organize such a system. They involve the use of the most modern materials and technology.

At the same time, brick chimneys, proven over centuries of stable operation, do not lose their positions. They, like many decades ago, are also built by owners of small country houses, and owners of luxury cottages. Brick chimneys have many operational advantages:

  • Availability of materials for construction and relatively low cost of installation work.
  • High resistance to elevated temperatures. Chimneys made of high-quality brick can withstand heating up to 900–1000 °C.
  • Great appearance designs. This is of great importance for residential buildings that are built in any original style.
  • Increased thermal conductivity. Due to this, the heating equipment installed in the house is characterized by a high efficiency rate. Brick chimneys retain heat inside the home, counteracting its rapid outflow.

Brick chimney

The designs under consideration for removing combustion products also have disadvantages. Under the influence of temperature fluctuations and due to exposure to aggressive environments, the brick begins to collapse. There is no particular problem with this. A brick chimney can always be repaired, restoring its functionality. The second disadvantage is that the walls of the described structures from the inside are quite difficult to make perfectly smooth. Because of this, soot accumulates on them, which causes deterioration in chimney draft.

This phenomenon is due to a decrease in space (working) inside the structure. This problem can also be solved. You just need to regularly clean the brick chimney of soot. And then there will be no difficulties (truly insoluble) with its operation.

The shape of the brick structure can be round or square. There is no fundamental difference in the operation of such chimneys. But home craftsmen usually build square structures for soot removal. They are much easier and faster to build than round structures.

Also, chimneys made of bricks are usually divided into: mounted and root. The mounted structure is an integral element (of the furnace), its continuation, without which the unit cannot be operated. But chimneys of the indigenous type are installed as autonomous structures. They are placed next to the furnace and the soot removal pipe is connected to the heating unit via a pipe. Primary type chimneys should be placed on a foundation separate from the stove and house foundation. This, of course, complicates the installation work.

Brick-built structure

Most often, such structures are used to remove smoke from heating units made of brick or cast iron.

An important nuance. It is allowed to connect not one stove, but several at once to the main structure. Moreover, it can be either a gas-powered unit. For the construction of the chimneys we are interested in, hollow, porous and lightweight bricks cannot be used. Use only fireclay or solid red blocks that can withstand without problems high temperatures.

The mounted structure consists of several zones. For ordinary person their names may not sound quite usual. Below we present the main parts of brick smoke exhaust structures and describe their features:

  1. Directly mounted on the heating unit Bottom part chimney - top pipe. When installing it, the bricks are laid with a special dressing.
  2. After the top pipe comes fluffing (otherwise known as cutting). This part is understood as the expansion of the chimney, which begins to be laid out in 5-6 brick rows from the overlap between the floors of the house. There is one subtlety here. Only the outer part of the fluff is made wider by 25–40 cm. But its internal diameter is similar to the cross-section of the entire chimney pipe. The fluff protects the ceilings from elevated temperatures. It essentially performs the function of thermal insulation. That's why its walls are made so thick.
  3. There is a neck in the fluff. It is designed to install a special valve, which makes it possible to change the furnace draft by regulating the intensity of fuel combustion.
  4. A column of bricks with a smoke exhaust channel laid inside it is called a riser. Structurally, it is placed before the fluff and after it - in the attic floor. The riser is laid all the way to the roof of the building.
  5. An otter is mounted above the roof - an extension (about 10 cm on each side) of a special type. It protects the attic from precipitation entering it.
  6. Above the otter is another neck. Its parameters are similar to the dimensions of the chimney.

Main parts of a brick smoke exhaust structure

The end of the smoke exhaust structure is the head. It consists of an otter platform and a cap protruding above the neck. An umbrella, deflector or cap is installed on the head (or rather, on its cap), which prevent wind-blown debris and precipitation from entering the pipe. Main chimneys have a similar design. But, as was said, several heating units can be connected to them. Therefore, the structure will have several sections and risers.

First you need to decide on the scheme according to which you will install the chimney. You can order it from specialists or find a ready-made plan on the Internet on specialized sites. The scheme you like must be carefully studied. After this, you can begin construction work.

Laying is carried out according to the following algorithm:

  1. First of all, you should build a superstructure pipe. Its lower part is installed on a layer of mortar consisting of clay and dry, clean construction sand. The pipe is laid using the ligation method (each row is moved sideways by half a brick to ensure maximum adhesion). Before reaching the overlap of 5-6 lines, stop installing the top pipe.
  2. The fluff is being laid. The standard widening value along the outer perimeter of the chimney is 59x45 cm, along the inner perimeter - 14x27 cm. The expansion of the pipe is achieved by shifting the laid bricks along the edges of each row by about 4 cm. Important! When the laying of the fluff is completed, be sure to cover the extension made with 10 mm asbestos in sheets or any other non-combustible material.
  3. Now let's make an otter. This stage requires home handyman special care and attention. Each row of the otter should protrude 1/3 outward and form a kind of step. The masonry of the first line is similar in size to the last row of the previously made extension. Then lay out the second step and all subsequent ones.

Laying a brick pipe for smoke removal

The next step is installation of the riser. Its masonry is done in the attic. Boner in mandatory built close to the roof structure of the house. It passes through the roof and extends 50–80 cm above the ridge of the building. The masonry is completed by arranging the neck of the chimney. A cap is placed at its end, onto which a protective device (cap, umbrella) is placed.

You can learn more about all the stages of laying a brick chimney in the video that we attach to this section. Review it carefully and you are guaranteed to be able to make a reliable chimney with your own hands.

Finally, I would like to give a few useful tips for beginner home craftsmen who have no real experience in constructing chimneys. Please note the following:

  1. It is advisable to make masonry seams thin (no more than 1.5 cm). In this case, the smoke removal structure will serve you for many decades.
  2. It is convenient to trim bricks using a manual grinding and cutting unit.
  3. When building an otter and cutting, you can install metal rods into the brickwork to increase the reliability of the structure. At the same time, do not allow the reinforcement elements to block the smoke channel.
  4. All corners of the chimney must be straight, and the walls must be perfectly smooth. When laying out each structural element, use a plumb line and a building level.
  5. To increase the reliability and stability of the smoke exhaust structure, attach it to the wall every 0.3 m with steel anchors (of course, if the chimney is located directly next to the wall surface).

Installation of metal rods in the brickwork of a chimney

Experienced specialists, in addition, advise laying fiberglass or asbestos material in the area where the chimney connects to the roof and ceiling. This way you will almost completely eliminate the risk of fire.

Chimneys are used to remove combustion products and generate draft in furnaces. According to their design and location relative to the furnace, chimneys can be root, mounted, or in the form of a channel in the main wall. Mounted pipes are called pipes installed on the stove. This is actually an extension of the stove's smoke channel; They are convenient because they do not take up space in the room. Main chimneys are installed in the form of a pipe riser standing separately near the stove on its own foundation.

Their use is especially justified in wooden houses with group arrangement of heating devices. In brick buildings, it is better to install smoke ducts in the internal main walls.

Wall chimneys do not take up living space and do not require materials.

The cross-section of the chimney flue is determined depending on the heat transfer of the furnaces. Size cross section channels must correspond to the amount of flue gases flowing through them and be at least 130x130mm for stoves with heat output up to 3500W. For furnaces with a heat output of more than 3500 W, the pipe cross-section is made 130x250 mm. For Russian stoves and fireplaces with a large portal, the chimney cross-section is 260x260mm.

Depending on the size of the channel, the masonry is laid in different ways: four bricks “quadruple”, five bricks “five” or six bricks “six”.

The chimney consists of the following parts:

Masonry chimney no different from laying a stove.

The difficulty is in laying it at the place where it passes through attic floor and a widening device above the roof. The main requirement is the verticality of the array, dense filling of the seams, achieving a smooth surface of the smoke channels.

The laying of the mounted pipe is a continuation of the laying of the furnace, since it is installed on its ceiling and is carried out using the same mortar before passing through the attic ceiling.

At the point where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal cut is made - widening the walls. Horizontal cutting is done to prevent fire safety.

The cutting and pipe are placed simultaneously with ligation of the seams, outer wall gradually expands, and the internal channel runs in one section.

This is achieved by overlapping the outer masonry by 4 cm in each row.

Between cutting and wooden beams it is necessary to lay non-combustible thermal insulation, for example basalt mats.

In a freshly cut wooden house, the cutting should be done taking into account the shrinkage of the walls, lowering it below 4% of the height of the walls.

It is better to lay the riser within the attic space along the beacon.

To do this, lay 2-3 rows of pipe over the cutting. A plumb line from the roof plane is lowered to one of the corners.

Laying a brick chimney pipe

A nail is driven into the point on the roof sheathing from which the plumb line is dropped. A nylon thread is tied to the nail, and the lower end of the thread is tied to a nail driven into the seam of the chimney masonry in the corner. The masonry is laid along this corner, checking after 3-4 rows with a square or measuring the diagonals.

The greatest difficulty is when laying pipes above the roof.

There the masonry is laid using a complex clay-cement mortar. I make the solution like this: add 1 liter of cement, a little water to the clay-sand mortar from which the stove is used, per 10 liters, and mix thoroughly with a mixer.

If the pipe is laid without adding cement, it may turn out like this.

The pipe riser is placed above the lower edge of the roof by 2 rows and they begin laying the otter - widening the pipe to protect the riser from precipitation.

They place it with careful bandaging of the seams. The first row is increased by overlapping bricks by a quarter in one direction to form an overhang over the roof towards the slope. In the second row, they begin to form an overhang from the sides and make it by overlapping a quarter of a brick on both sides.

The inner walls of the channel lead strictly vertically. Since pipes can be different sections, and the roof has a different slope, then the otter is placed individually each time. Here is one of the options for the otter order and the fluff order.

Laying fluff is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming work. To increase productivity, the fluff can be made of reinforced concrete. For reinforcement, use 5-7 mm reinforcement at the rate of 4-5 rods on each side of the slab.

Two bars of reinforcement must lie on brickwork.

The fluff board can be made on site or separately and then installed. In both cases it is necessary to make formwork. When fabricated on site, the formwork is secured as firmly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork must be at least 250mm from the “smoke”. Between the fluff and the ceiling you must put thermal insulation material. In this photo there are two layers of 5mm asbestos.

When a double-circuit metal pipe passes through the ceiling, the hole in the ceiling is closed with a sheet of galvanized iron, on which basalt insulation is placed and wrapped around the pipe.

Sometimes, to simplify the laying, instead of laying an otter, I make such a belt.

Above the otter, place a pipe neck of the same cross-section as the riser.

The masonry is completed with a head. To protect the pipe from precipitation, it is advisable to install a cap made of galvanized iron or other material on it. The cap protects the top of the pipe and prevents moisture from penetrating into the channel.

The head of the pipe plays only a decorative role; it can be omitted.

If a pipe is made to have a head, then the internal cross-section in this place should not change so that there are no smoke turbulences in the pipe.

To ensure that water does not stagnate on the horizontal surfaces of the otter and the head, they are plastered with a slope.

The height of the chimney above the roof has a significant influence on the operation of the furnace.

If the pipe is located in the area of ​​wind pressure, then in windy weather smoke can enter the room. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to set the height of the pipe relative to the roof ridge according to the drawing.

If you do not adhere to this rule, then this may happen.

After finishing laying the pipe, to prevent precipitation from getting into the attic and damaging the pipe riser, you need to close the gap between the pipe and the roof with galvanized iron or other material.

Here is a version of the pipe without the otter.

To prevent water from flowing down the pipe under the roof, an incision is made through the pipe with a grinder to a depth of 10mm.

Then the apron sheet is inserted and the groove is filled with sealant.

You can learn more about laying chimneys and working on the roof from the video guide “Do-It-Yourself Stoves.”

Here are photos of the finished pipes.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: teploizol
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
To the rescue - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bathhouse
Fire protection of the furnace

If you decide to build a bathhouse, then do not forget about high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may have serious problems with fire in the ceiling of the building. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on a pressing problem today - insulating a pipe in a bathhouse with our own hands.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and stove heat up quickly, a fire may occur. Moreover, according to tradition, the material for the bathhouse is wood.

Back in the old days, it was customary to insulate the walls, ceiling, stove, chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials, rather poorly conductive of thermal energy and resistant to elevated temperatures.

So how to cover the stove pipe today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for fire safety and protection from condensation, so that cooling occurs more slowly and the smoke exhaust system lasts longer.

It is a mistaken belief that a few will be enough to insulate from fire. metal sheets, which are used to cover the ceiling around the chimney. After all, metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and it will also not be suitable as a heat insulator.

Red brick is not always needed for pipe lining, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties.

The reason is that such a design does not match the design of every bathhouse.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney pipe against fire, consider two options for insulating materials in the form:

Furnace pipe insulation: teploizol

This is a unique material, the structure of which includes foamed polyethylene, located between a pair of sheets of foil.

Using thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate a chimney, and do it yourself.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of foil serves reliable protection pipes from significant overheating. Using wire or tape metal master They attach thermal insulation, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second one plays a reflective function and can save up to 90% of the thermal energy in the building. Folgoizol is a harmless material compared to other analogues, since the foil is compacted food grade. The material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and elevated temperatures within the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

For those who don’t yet know how to insulate a chimney pipe in a sauna, we recommend covering the steam room ceiling, walls and chimney with foil insulation. As a result, you will get a room whose design resembles a thermos. The heat will remain in the sauna, but the bathhouse will quickly gain temperature and then slowly cool down.

To the rescue - sandwich pipes

For those who want to install a safe chimney in their bathhouse, we suggest using a sandwich pipe.

This design includes several sections that can easily be placed inside each other, i.e. looks like a multi-layer cake.

Laying out a brick chimney

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

  • stainless steel layer (inside);
  • insulation in the form of basalt/mineral wool (in the middle);
  • steel with zinc coating (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into common system, and is designed to solve two problems simultaneously:

The sandwich pipe is easy to assemble yourself and can be used for a sauna with an iron stove or bathhouse.

What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to line the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bathhouse

At elevated temperatures, fire-resistant red brick retains its performance properties, therefore it is in demand when constructing a chimney in a bathhouse with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed protection of the pipe from fire and long-term heat retention.

The service life of the structure depends on how well the brick pipe is constructed. Do not skimp on materials during the construction of the chimney, because...

Then the repair will cost you much more.

Let's take a closer look at how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse from the ceiling:

  1. Use asbestos to cover the pipe outlet on the ceiling and through the roof.
  2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls on the inside of the pipe.

    Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrosion.

  3. Make a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling.
  4. Pour expanded clay inside the box to retain heat and protect the wooden floors from fire.

You have professionally wrapped the pipe, but the work on installing the chimney is not completed.

The next step is measures to insulate the stove, ceiling and walls of the bathhouse.

Fire protection of the furnace

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, while sheathing the back and sides of the walls with sheets of the same material. If you cover the stove yourself with only metal, its appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make external masonry with red brick, which insulates the stove from fire and retains heat in the bathhouse.

Due to the fact that asbestos releases toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended for use in a steam room.

Natural felt is considered harmless and is also a good insulator. In terms of price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering, it emits a specific odor (felt does not catch fire), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the oven on wooden floor, then first it is better to lay felt material in a couple of layers, then lay brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is recommended to lay metal sheets as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

And you will no longer have questions about how chimney pipes are wrapped.

Before the beginning construction work smoke brick channels must be prepared corresponding to the special design of the furnace, features internal layout premises, structural differences of the roof.

Further, until they cover the neck of the cut (workpiece). It should be noted that regardless of the external size of the internal section, the vertical smoke along the entire length is the same and is approximately 140x270 millimeters (average parameters, but in fact it can vary depending on the power of the heater and the size of the smoke).

After five rows of doors, the cut begins to engage with the external dimensions of the first row of approximately 590 x 450 mm, which is achieved by inserting half and quarter bricks. To avoid deflection in the smoke duct section, insert 60mm brick slabs inserted inside. In the third row, the dimensions of the brick chimney change again and are already 510 × 650 millimeters.

Brick slabs are also inserted inside. The external dimensions of the fourth row are made of 570x710 millimeters, and the inside is made of bricks 90-100 millimeters thick. The fifth and sixth lines are made of solid brick and strictly follow dress codes. If necessary, cutting can be continued for another type.

Once the wall is completed, the brick structure is moved to the attic where the hoist is constructed.

To reach it outside, there must be a first hole on the roof. The foundation is built very quickly and easily, since it involves the implementation of conventional masonry and does not require manipulation of pipe sizes.

When it comes to the roof, all the work moves towards the roof. The vortex pattern continues to rise one or two rows above the roof, after which the construction of the otter begins.

This chimney segment consists of nine types, while it is arranged so that the outer dimension of each successive course exceeds the previous block of brick.

At the same time, the size of the smoke duct must remain the same, so carefully select the internal panels with which it is configured. At the beginning, the bricks are laid in such a way that only one gap is formed at the front, and the external size of the chimney does not change at the edges. In the third row, the otter becomes wider due to the advanced bricks, which means that the front lip gradually begins to appear on the sides.

In the fourth row, the side projections increase in length. The more their length increases in the fifth line, the greater the difference between the chimney and the roof slab. In the sixth order, this gap is closed almost completely, and in the seventh case, the formation of the side surfaces is completed.

As a result of all the transformations described above, a front and two lateral projections are formed, the last protrusions remain.

As you can see, on this moment There is nothing that even many experienced builders would ask about how to build a brick chimney, because the matter is quite complex and requires the greatest attention and compliance with all technological requirements.

The last fourth projections are formed in the eighth order. Of particular importance is the observation of the ligation of bricks and the careful selection of brick slabs that allow the smoke channel to remain unchanged with constant changes in the external dimensions of the pipe.

Brick chimney - we build a reliable structure independently

Finally, the ninth type of otter is defined similarly to the eighth, and at the same time, the chimney neck already begins at this stage. Its size may vary depending on the height of the chimney. At this stage you must adhere to the rules and regulations that apply to the height of the chimney above the roof, as this will have serious consequences for drafts while the stove is running (see "Chimney with arms").

So, we have found out how to build a chimney out of brick, but you need to look for some nuances and problems that you will have to face during the work process.

During the implementation of the wall, it is necessary to control the thoroughness of the ligation of bricks with each other, especially into half, quarters and other parts and brick slabs.

A qualified worker with stoves will not big problem to distribute a piece of the required size from the entire brick, but for those who lack experience, this can be very difficult.

The best way out of this position would be to purchase a special grinding machine. This makes it easy to obtain chimney brickwork of the required size, which is especially important if panels are needed to form a smoke channel between the cutter or otters.

It is important to remember that the thickness of the joint directly affects the strength of the brick, and since it is thinner, the chimney will become stronger.

In this regard, you must carefully measure the location of the future installation, according to these data, use the cutting line of the knives, and only then do you cut. Sometimes it may even be necessary for some bricks to be the wrong shape, so a mistake here could cost broken bricks and time in waste.

To summarize all of the above, it is easy to understand that it is very difficult to install a brick chimney with your own hands on a person who does not have sufficient experience.

But don't give up because this is an easy way for beginners to take advantage of the building's benefits. Also read: “Do-it-yourself wind chimney.”

Alternative brick chimney design

If the above method of laying a chimney seems to be too difficult and an impossible task for some, then don’t give up and don’t give up. Exists alternative way installing a brick chimney, which has the least skill. This means carrying out a conventional masonry in which the entire chimney, arising from the pipe and ending at the head, will be of the same size.

There is a logical question: what is cutting and tearing in this case? They will also be, but they will also be made of concrete. Also read: “Chimney diagram for a gas boiler.”

Brick brick for gas boilers and ventilation, detailed video instructions:

Before starting work, it is necessary to pre-position metal rods, wire or reinforcement with a diameter of 5-7 millimeters.

When installing a chimney in areas where an otter needs to be cut, the envelope pieces must be set into the brick. It is important to ensure that metal elements do not cross the smoke channel. After completing the chimney wall, you only need to install the support in the right place, prepare the cement mortar and fill it (see also: “Do-it-yourself chimney cleaning - methods”).

As you can see, even without much experience and with minimal knowledge of brick and mortar, your hands are set on building a chimney without the help of a builder, but instead opted for the installation of metal pipes, which when done are much worse than brick chimneys.

If you have something that doesn’t work right away, don’t panic, just study the diagram more carefully and see the tips experienced craftsmen, try to figure out what is causing the problems, the next attempt will surely be successful.

The reward for hard work and inertia will be a good and functional chimney that will last for over a decade and provide correct work heating equipment.

Also read: “Installing a chimney in the bathroom.”

The technology for laying a brick chimney itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick stove itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the colossal importance of this section of the stove, since the quality of heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it.

Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on developed and tested design schemes.
When erecting a chimney, you should remember that the evenness of the internal walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the external masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the stove depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, and the channel becomes overgrown much slower.

What types of brick chimneys are there?
Chimneys for brick stoves can be of different types, depending on the location of their installation, the design of the stove, and also on how many heating devices will be connected to the pipe. Thus, there are three main types of chimneys: brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

Mounted chimneys. The most widely used designs are mounted pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not take up any additional space in the room, but are simply a vertical extension of the stove.
A mounted chimney is essentially an upward continuation of the stove. Very often, the furnace layout immediately includes a layout diagram for the initial section of the pipe.
They are erected on top of the last row of bricks covering the stove, around the left hole.

Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, rafter system and rises above the roof.

Root chimneys. This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove, or several heating devices located on one or even several floors.


The main chimney allows you to connect metal stoves to it. As well as several heating devices located at different levels of the building.
In addition to metal ones, such pipes can also be connected brick kilns. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in adjacent rooms.

For example, for the kitchen you need a stove with a hob, and for the next room - only a heating one. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a main chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heating devices are connected.

Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to very accurately calculate the size of the internal chimney channel, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously.

Wall chimneys are built near main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of a building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is located outside the residential premises, without occupying their space. For example, on the first floor of a house a fireplace can be built and connected to a wall chimney (there the pipe will be more similar in structure to a mounted one), and on the second floor a smoke exhaust pipe of a metal stove can be cut in (the same as in the version with a root pipe).

The disadvantages of this chimney option are the considerable cost of the project and the labor intensity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material.

Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise winter period, with temperature changes, condensation will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heating device. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the area inside the premises and route the pipe along interior wall Houses.

Parameters of brick chimneys
Main sections of a brick chimney
A brick chimney is divided into sections that have their own purpose and are named differently.

These features must be clarified immediately so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the pipe construction work (Figure 5).
1 – Pipe head. When laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are moved to the outside to create a kind of “canopy”, as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the pipe from precipitation.

2 – The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter throughout its entire height, without protrusions, expansions or narrowings.
3 – “Otter” has a more complex masonry pattern, since it has a protective function. Firstly, the “otter” masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the walls of the pipe, closes it from the penetration of precipitation and creates a space for the installation of waterproofing material.

Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the point of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.
4 – A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted at the bottom of the otter, forms a kind of flashing that covers the joint between the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 – “Fluff” - this is the expanded part of the pipe, located in the area where it passes through the attic floor.

The walls of the “fluff”, like the “otters”, are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and their overheating must not be allowed.

6 – Roof covering design.
7 - The riser is a straight section of pipe that has smooth masonry along its entire height and is located in the attic space from the “fluff” to the “otter”.
8 – Attic floor.

9 – An umbrella cap is often attached to the top of the head, which will protect the internal channel of the chimney from water and debris getting into it.

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere.

How to build a brick chimney: a treasure trove of useful tips for DIY construction

To do this, the chimney pipe is connected to numerous channels located in the stove structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then when operating the heating device, good draft should be created inside the ducts, which will facilitate the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the heat generated by it literally flying out of the furnace.

In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Diagram of the correct ratio of the height of the chimney depending on its location on the roof (Figure 6):
If the chimney exits through the roofing at a distance L1 not exceeding 1500 mm from the ridge (when measured horizontally), then its upper end edge should be raised above the ridge by no less than 500 mm.
A chimney pipe passing through the roof at a distance of 1500 to 3000 mm from the ridge (L2 in the diagram) must be at least at the level of the ridge.

A chimney installed more than 3000 mm from the ridge (L3) must have its upper edge located on a conventional line drawn through the ridge point at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal.

In any of the above cases, regardless of the distance to the ridge, the height of the pipe above the roofing cannot be less than 500 mm. This fully applies to all flat roofs.

To conclude the topic of chimney parameters, there is an important remark. Independent calculations are great, but the role of a properly designed and built chimney is so great (both for heating efficiency and for safety) that the best option There will always be a professional design carried out.

Self-activity in such important matters is a very risky business.

The brick chimney is classic solution, which has been used in everyday life for quite some time and does not lose its popularity, despite the fact that today more and more modern solutions are being introduced.

This structure is erected at the construction stage of the facility and can have different configurations.

  1. Features of brick chimneys
  2. Types of bricks used for chimneys
  3. Pros and cons of brick construction
  4. Preparing for work
  5. Step-by-step description of work
  6. Features and nuances of masonry

A little about chimneys made of brick

The heating system and the outflow of combustion products in the house must be organized without fail.

For this purpose, in particular, a brick chimney is used, through which exhaust air is removed during the operation of heating devices. Typically, a discharge structure made of such material is used for single heating and heating devices.

The configuration of a brick chimney can be square or round.

But the second option will cost more due to the complexity of the masonry. The drainage structure is erected in parallel with the construction of the walls of the building. Today it is allowed to build a chimney with a side length of at least 140 mm, and if the configuration is round, then the diameter should be 140 mm. In previous times, the permissible limit was 150 mm.

Let's watch the video, a little about installation work brick chimney:

The thickness of the walls is also regulated by certain standards.

It is not recommended to violate the integrity of the structure with holes for cables, etc. A brick chimney must be solid, and in addition to this, the inner surface of the pipe must be as smooth as possible, without brick protrusions and cement deposits at the seams.

Type of bricks for chimneys and their features

Gas heating determines the type of material used in the construction of the exhaust structure.

The difference between them lies in the temperature withstand.

So, in the first case we're talking about about 800 degrees, and in the second - about 1,000 degrees.

All other options, for example, lightweight, porous or hollow material, are prohibited. Unlike the walls of a house, brick chimneys of various types cannot be plastered from the inside.

The construction of different parts of the structure is marked by the use of cement mortar, different in composition.

For that part of the chimney that is located above the roof, a cement-sand working mixture is used.

Brick chimney - what you need to know

For masonry below the roof level, cement-lime or lime mortar should be used.

If we compare brick chimneys of different types with other structures, for example, with a sandwich chimney, then in this case a single-wall solution is used. “Sandwich” is a double-walled version, that is, it is assumed that the chimney consists of two pipes: a larger and a smaller diameter.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick construction

Brick chimneys of various types have gained a high degree of popularity due to a number of features that will be discussed below:

  • Increased resistance to high temperatures, as already mentioned, fireclay brick can withstand a limit of up to 1,000 degrees, while combustion products from the stove and fireplace reach a limit of 750 degrees;
  • The increased degree of thermal conductivity ensures high efficiency of heating equipment, since brick chimneys of various types do not contribute to the rapid outflow of heat;
  • The cost of construction made from this material is low;
  • Aesthetic value is no less important, especially in cases where a building is built in a certain style.

But in addition to the advantages, the brick square chimney also has a number of significant disadvantages:

  • The angles of the structure contribute to the formation of vortex flows, which in turn represent a factor countering the outflow of combustion products;
  • The walls of the outlet structure are not always perfectly smooth, which allows soot to settle on the rough surface, and this over time leads to a decrease in the working space, as a result of which traction deteriorates;
  • Regular exposure to aggressive environments and temperature changes, which contribute to the formation of condensation, leads to the fact that chimneys for red brick stoves are gradually destroyed.

Taking into account all of the above, and also taking into account the features of other types of outlet structures, the user decides for himself which option is preferable.

But still, the most common one today is brick chimney masonry.

Preparing for work

The beginning of any type of construction work is drawing up a project. In order for the outlet structure to function effectively, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

  1. The dimensions of the pipe, namely its height and diameter, are determined by the characteristics of the heating equipment. But a multi-format brick chimney pipe cannot be less than 5 m.

    The relationship between these parameters and traction force is obvious, since the larger the cross-section of the pipe with insufficiently powerful heating equipment, the weaker the air outflow will be. And if the diameter of the pipe is too small, then even if there is sufficient height, chimneys for red brick stoves will “smoke.”

  2. The construction of a drainage structure in rooms that are well heated is carried out without pipe insulation.

    But in the area adjacent to the ceiling (up to 60 cm in length), a “sandwich” structure is installed.

  3. The construction of a brick chimney implies the need to provide free access for maintenance. To do this, the butt seams of the structure are located at different levels with ceiling covering. Otherwise, if difficulties arise in the operation of the system, it will be very problematic to get to the desired section of the pipe.

Watch the video, the beginning of the pipe:

It is important to have a good idea of ​​what elements go into building a brick chimney.

So, the main structural components:

  • The top pipe is led from the furnace itself;
  • Fluffing is the name given to the laying of a brick chimney pipe, which is made with a widening of up to 300 mm, but the original internal diameter of the pipe is preserved;
  • Riser - rises in the attic and goes all the way to the roof;
  • Otter - laying a chimney pipe, which is carried out with a widening of up to 100 mm and is an obstacle to the penetration of precipitation into the room;
  • The neck is built on the principle of a riser and is erected immediately after the otter;
  • The head is the last section with a widening that crowns the pipe.

Description of work

We have already discussed above what kind of brick a multi-format chimney is made from.

Having understood the stages of work, you can begin laying:

  1. The riser pipe is being built. Masonry is carried out using the ligation method. On at this stage you should stop before reaching about 6 brick rows to the ceiling.
  2. A do-it-yourself red brick chimney is then built with a widening called fluff.

    Recommended dimensions of this element: 140X270 mm along the inner perimeter of the pipe, and values ​​of 590X450 mm are selected on the outside. Construction is carried out using plates to achieve the desired result. The next row has parameters: 510X650 mm, while 60 mm thick plates are also used. The result is a row with dimensions of 570x710 mm. When the widening is ready, another row of the same dimensions is erected, taking into account the dressing.

  3. A multi-format brick chimney for a metal stove is built further along the dimensions of the top pipe, but higher than the fluff.

    This part is called the riser. At this stage, you need to first prepare the outlet for the pipe in the roof.

  4. Chimneys for red brick stoves are built after the riser is removed beyond the roof no higher than 2 rows. Then the otter's laying begins. This is another expansion. The height of this section is nine rows, each of which is wider than the previous one by about half a brick. Brick plates are still installed inside the widening. As you can see, it is possible to build a multi-format brick chimney for a metal stove and other heating equipment yourself, but the main difficulty is precisely these widened areas.
  5. When thinking about how to build a red brick chimney with the highest quality possible, you should take into account the need to block the hole formed between the roof and the pipe.

    This is done by increasing the width of the brick rows.

  6. When choosing which brick is suitable for a chimney, you need to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue. Since when building a neck, it is desirable that its quality and color fit harmoniously into the overall picture of the house.

    The head is built according to the fluff principle.

Features of masonry

In addition to which brick to choose for the chimney, you should also pay attention to the thickness of the seams. The thinner they are, the more durable the structure can be obtained as a result. If it was not possible to give the widenings a beautiful shape, you can correct the defects using a concrete mixture.

Let's watch a detailed video, stages of work:

Lining a multi-format brick chimney is not a prerequisite.

But this measure allows you to obtain a completely sealed pipe, which will increase the reliability and efficiency of the structure. Lining involves installing a stainless steel pipe inside the brick walls of the chimney. This option is only possible on straight sections.

Thus, in addition to the main stages of work, there are a number of nuances that you also need to know about in advance so that the chimney design turns out without flaws and lasts as long as possible.

Building a high-quality brick chimney with your own hands is not the same as attaching a metal pipe. Every seam, tightness and strict compliance with fire safety rules are important here. The main task of any chimney is to remove combustion products from the building. And this process is helped by the draft that is created inside the chimney pipe - it is this that removes hot vapors and ensures the flow of air into the combustion chamber to support the combustion process. The main advantages of a brick chimney are that it has excellent draft in any weather, has a wonderful appearance, and lasts much longer than modern metal pipes and sandwiches. So, let's figure out how to build a brick chimney in compliance with absolutely all the rules.

Main components of a brick chimney

So, what exactly is a brick chimney? At the very beginning - a supercharger pipe, which is installed directly on the stove. There is a valve in it. The top pipe is laid out with a special ligation of bricks.

Five or six rows before interfloor covering the nasal part ends and the neck of the fluff begins. The fluff is the subsequent widening of the brick chimney, but its cross-section remains the same as throughout the entire pipe. In fact, only the outer part of the fluff widens - by 25-40 cm.

That part of the brick chimney that goes into the attic is a riser, a flat part that will go all the way to the roof.

The next cut is otter, a special expansion on four sides, no less than 10 cm. It is thanks to it that precipitation does not get into the cracks between the roof and the chimney in attic space baths

But after the otter, the neck is already placed - the same size as the chimney. Its masonry ends with the last extension, which forms the head of the chimney. You can already put a metal cap or deflector on it to protect the chimney itself from snow, rain and wind-blown debris. And it's good for traction too.

We lay the chimney - brick by brick

How exactly the construction and lining of a brick chimney occurs, you can see on step by step photo and video, the sequence is also at your disposal. And we will give you passing good advice that will help you achieve good quality work at all stages.

Stage I. Preparatory work

First of all, thoroughly familiarize yourself with the chimney construction drawings. Use the usual standard chimney diagram for this, don’t take risks. If you have a regular wood-burning stove, you need a completely brick chimney layout, and if you have a gas stove, then one that will additionally have metal pipe special alloy.

Before you start laying a brick chimney, a rectangular foundation is built for it. It can be built from solid brick or concrete with metal reinforcement, the main thing is that its height should be no lower than 30 cm. And the width of the foundation should be 15 cm larger than the chimney itself.

Stage II. Chimney laying

You can carefully examine how a standard brick chimney is laid using the detailed diagram below:

Whatever the height of your bathhouse, the chimney will need to be built no less than 5 meters high - otherwise there will be no draft. Such a chimney must be lined with special fireproof or red solid brick. As a binder, you can use cement-lime or cement-sand mortar, and where the temperature is especially high, you will need a special mixture for laying the stove.

Experienced stove makers break off the required piece from the brick with one blow - but if you do not have this skill, use a regular grinder and cutting machine and a marker for marking. These are the tools that will allow you to make precise plates for the smoke channel in the butcher and otter area.

Try to make the seams as thin as possible - then the chimney will be strong. Optimal thickness seams for a brick chimney - 15 mm. To form the cut and otter, use metal rods for convenience - mount them directly into the brickwork, but so that the reinforcement does not cross the smoke channel itself. Keep in mind that both the width and height of your chimney will directly depend on how thick you will make the seams in the masonry - they must be the same! In general, the thickness of the walls of a brick chimney is about 10 cm, which really provides reliable fire safety.

Attention! When building a brick chimney, be sure to leave special openings for cleaning. The brick walls of the chimney must be perfectly smooth, and all corners must be straight.

Finish the inner surface of the chimney with plaster for smoothness. For what? The fact is that the rougher the chimney inside the interior, the more soot will settle on its walls. And it worsens traction and one day may simply catch fire, which is completely unsafe. Just apply the plaster itself correctly. Many experienced stove makers also believe that a brick chimney should be whitened from the outside as well - this way it will be immediately obvious where soot seeps through a completely invisible gap.

Stage III. Fastening and thermal insulation

If you are building such a chimney directly against a wall, then secure it to it using metal anchors every 30 cm for reliability. Where the chimney will connect to the ceiling and roof, lay asbestos fabric or fiberglass. Although the brick heats up slowly, the risk of something catching fire needs to be reduced to a minimum. Another rule: the brick chimney must rise above the ridge of the roof by at least half a meter - this is important.

The outer part of the chimney that is higher needs to be insulated and finished facing bricks or special roofing finishing. Like this. If you follow all the technologies when building a brick chimney in your bathhouse, it will turn out to be much safer, stronger and more reliable than the most modern modular systems at an exorbitant price.

The chimney is one of the most important components of the heating system in a private or country house. Even an inexperienced person can handle its installation, but in this matter you need to know certain nuances, SNiP standards, as well as possible errors.

Features of brick chimneys

In a private house with a heating boiler system there is a chimney. It is designed to remove fuel combustion products outside. Now there are many chimney designs. Required Tools and materials for installation can be found in a hardware store. Although new types of chimneys have now appeared, brick structures are still in demand.

Advantages of brick chimneys:

  • Relatively low costs for laying a brick chimney.
  • Variety of materials for manufacturing.
  • Excellent performance characteristics, brick chimneys can withstand temperatures up to a thousand degrees Celsius.
  • Aesthetic component. Brick chimneys are beautiful in appearance and will become a separate element of home decoration. Ceramic material is most often used to decorate them.
  • Excellent thermal conductivity.

Types of brick chimneys

There are 2 types of brick pipes: root and mounted. They are used for different ovens.

The mounted type of structure is directly connected to the furnace, being its continuation. The main pipes are located near the boiler, autonomously. A special pipe is used to connect them to the furnace.


The radical design is best suited to cast iron products in the heating system. In addition, several stoves can be combined into one main chimney. In such a situation, you need to correctly determine the diameter of the pipe that will cope with the load of removing combustion products.

Recommendation: sometimes when installing a basic structure and connecting it to the stove with a special pipe, it is necessary to install a metal pipe inside the chimney. A brick chimney must be built in accordance with all building codes.

The top pipe comes directly from the boiler and passes through the roof. It is suitable for connection to only one oven.

Brick chimney design

Both types of chimney have a similar structure. The only difference is that the basic design of the method includes several ovens. In this case, you will need several risers and sections. And here it all depends on how many floors the building has.


Elements included in the chimney design:

  1. Pipe cutting (also called fluffing). It is intended to protect flammable floors. The cutting has the largest wall thickness in the entire structure, in the range of 35-40 cm. The exact value depends on the specific situation. The result is approximately 25 cm of insulation.
  2. Kiln neck. This chimney element is located in the area from the stove to the cutting. The furnace neck includes a smoke valve designed to regulate draft.
  3. Pipe riser. It is made of brick, inside it there is a channel for removing combustion products. The riser is placed in the attic ceiling, as well as before cutting.
  4. Otter. This chimney element is designed to waterproof the pipe passage in the roof. The otter is installed above the roof.
  5. Cap. It is installed on top of the cap in the head of the pipe (more details: " "). This element protects the chimney channel from atmospheric precipitation. In addition, proper placement of the hood increases the efficiency of the entire system.

Requirements for a brick chimney

SNiP is a special document regulating construction standards for the construction of objects. It also includes heating systems in private homes. These standards should be taken into account when laying brick pipes with your own hands.

The main points of SNiP regarding brick chimneys:

  1. Changes in the internal diameter are not allowed in the chimney; the walls must be smooth.
  2. The thickness of the chimney must be determined based on fire safety requirements. Most often, the optimal figure is 10 cm.
  3. The materials used for laying brick pipes must be able to withstand high temperatures without problems.
  4. It is necessary to maintain a distance of 38 cm between the pipe and the wall.
  5. In no case should you forget about installing extensions; they are installed at the point where the pipe passes through the ceilings.
  6. Discharge of combustion products in a vertical position is allowed. But in some situations it is impossible to build a chimney without horizontal sections. In this case, their length should not exceed 1 m.
  7. For flat roofs it is necessary to make the outer section of the chimney 1 meter.
  8. For pitched roof The pipe is installed at a distance of one and a half meters from the ridge, and it must rise above it by at least 50 cm.
  9. If the pipe is located 3 meters away from the ridge of the pitched roof, then they will be level in height.
  10. In situations where the distance from the roof ridge to the chimney pipe is more than 3 meters, special calculations of the height of the external section are necessary. It is necessary to conditionally draw a line at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon of the ridge. The intersection location will determine the height of the pipe.
  11. For gas fuel boiler systems, it is necessary to install the pipe so that it rises at least 5 meters above the roof.


Correct placement of the chimney pipe is extremely important, as it affects the efficiency of the entire system. The chimney height instructions must be strictly followed. The length of the pipe is calculated in different ways, depending on a number of indicators. In each individual case, its outer section may vary in height.

There are special requirements for industrial brick chimneys. The length of the pipe must be 25 meters greater than the height of any building within a certain radius.

Brick for laying a chimney

To install a brick chimney yourself, you need to first calculate the amount of materials. It is necessary to know in advance how much brick and mortar will be needed. Particular attention should also be paid to the choice of material, because the reliability of the laying of the chimney above the roof, as well as the rest of the structure, directly depends on its quality. And there are some useful recommendations here.

It is worth understanding that for the material used in laying such a structure, there is a requirement for fire resistance. The shape of the brick needs to be even, so that there are no cracks or other defects. Experts recommend purchasing material with a grade of 200 and above. Optimal size bricks for the construction of a chimney - 25x12x6.5 cm.


The bricks are fastened together using special solution, mixed from cement, sand and water in certain proportions. Its quality can be determined by the grain size of the sand. The fine-grained fractions make an ideal mortar for laying chimneys. Sometimes clay is included in its composition. Need to take pure material, without any impurities.

The opening of the pipe passage in the roof must be waterproofed. This prevents liquid from flowing down the pipe into the building. To accomplish this task, otter is most often used - a thickening on the outside of the masonry. But it can be replaced using a metal part - an “apron”.

Do-it-yourself dismantling of a brick pipe

Old brick chimneys not only provide poor removal of combustion products, but also pose a threat to human life. After all, at any moment the old structure can collapse. Such chimneys must be demolished and replaced with new ones.


When the outer section of the chimney is demolished, you can move on to dismantling the part of the pipe in the attic of the house. To avoid a possible collapse of plaster from the ceiling, it is necessary to place special grooves on the pipe.

A hammer, sledgehammer or similar tools will do the job perfectly. With their help, it will be possible to relatively quickly demolish a chimney in a private house.


Stages of installation of a brick chimney:

  1. The first step is to install the mounted pipe. The ligation method is used for laying the chimney. But first you need to secure the pipe itself to the stove with mortar. The essence of this method is that in each row there is a step of half a brick. This approach allows you to achieve better adhesion. The laying is carried out until there are 5-6 free rows left between the ceiling and the structure.
  2. Now the laying of the fluff is already underway. Here it will be necessary to expand the outer perimeter. Suitable dimensions for external expansion are 59x45 cm. In such a situation, you need to make an internal expansion of 14x27 cm. The expansion is quite simple to implement. It is enough to move the bricks at the edges of the rows. The approximate size of the shift is 4 centimeters.
  3. During the third stage, the otter is being installed. It is required to approach this task with extreme care in order to avoid possible errors. For laid rows, during installation of the otter, it is necessary to create an indentation outward by a third. In this case, the first row on top of the extension must correspond to the previous one.
  4. It is necessary to organize a riser for the butt pipe in the roof. Its masonry is carried out in the attic of the house. The riser is carried through the roof; it should rise above it by 50-80 centimeters.
  5. The final stage includes the installation of the chimney neck. When it is completed, a head with a cap must be placed on the end of the neck. It will protect the structure from precipitation.


If you follow all the rules and take into account the advice of specialists, the installation of the chimney pipe will be completed without any complications. This design will last a long time.

It was already mentioned above that the wall of the fluff is mounted under the expansion of the perimeter. This structure must be additionally thermally insulated to ensure its reliability and durability. You need to insulate the entire section of the pipe that passes through the roof.


Most often, thermal insulation material for these purposes is made of asbestos. But there are still alternative options. Insulation can be made from a metal box placed around the perimeter of the pipe. The free space between it and the pipe is usually filled with sand or expanded clay. Clay-impregnated felt can also be used as thermal insulation. Mineral wool is also suitable for these purposes. High-quality insulation is achieved if its layer is at least 10 cm thick.

Common installation mistakes

The text described above contains important tips, following which will help you install a brick chimney with your own hands. But since this is a rather complex process, you may encounter some difficulties during its execution.

Common installation errors:

  • The most common problem is that the pipe is not high enough. Such a chimney will not have proper draft, which will negatively affect its efficiency. Particular attention should be paid to calculating the size of the chimney. This approach will avoid this problem.
  • The chimney does not comply with SNiP standards. These standards were created to ensure that facilities built according to them were as reliable as possible.
  • Another one common mistake- use of low-quality or incorrectly mixed cement mortar. The brickwork will not be able to hold securely with it; over time, it will completely collapse. The cement mortar must be mixed in such a way as to achieve a uniform consistency.


Important advice: it is necessary to lay the cement mortar evenly during the laying process.

  • You should be very careful when tying bricks during laying. When constructing a chimney, half parts of bricks, quarter parts, and so on can be used. To separate them, it is best to use a grinder.
  • Bricks should not be laid on cement mortar that is too thick. Otherwise, this will negatively affect the service life of the structure. The optimal thickness is 4-5 millimeters.
  • Among other things, it is worth remembering about regular chimney maintenance. This mainly concerns its cleaning. Soot and other combustion products settle on the walls of the pipes. Structures with uneven interiors are the most contaminated. Regular cleaning will help maintain the performance of the chimney, otherwise they will begin to deteriorate.


Having decided to build a brick chimney with your own hands, you will follow the path of nameless craftsmen who laid stoves one and a half and two hundred years ago.

Therefore, there is no need to “reinvent the wheel” if you can take advantage of their experience.

How to make a chimney according to all the rules will be discussed further in our new article.

Despite the fact that the metal pipe is no longer exotic, chimneys continue to be laid from brick. In some ways this looks like an anachronism, but there are good reasons why you should not abandon the classic technology of laying smoke exhaust ducts.

The main one is that brick has high thermal inertia. The exhaust hot gases heat it slightly, which significantly reduces the fire hazard of the heating device. We must not forget about another aspect - the temperature of the smoke at the upper end of the pipe should not fall below 60–70 degrees. Otherwise, condensation will flow through it. The brick acts as the shell of a thermos and prevents the smoke from cooling down too much.

But there are two fatal drawbacks:

  1. Difficulty of masonry.

The pipe with all the elements, depending on the height of the attic, takes from 400 to 800 pieces of bricks weighing 3.8 kilograms.

A column with a base area of ​​no more than 0.25 square meters. meters, its entire mass presses on the stove. This is a concentrated load. If the total height of the pipe exceeds 5 meters, then it is placed on a separate base and connected to the heating device with an adapter pipe.

Brick chimney as an engineering structure

A chimney, for all its outward unpretentiousness, is a complex engineering structure that is subject to serious requirements. They relate to strength, fire safety, and the ability to effectively remove hot gases. Therefore, installation of a chimney in wooden house It’s worth starting by getting to know its device.

Essential elements

  1. Internal chimney- is carried out from the ceiling of the furnace to a level four rows of brickwork below the ceiling.
  2. Cutting (fluff)– expansion of the thickness of the pipe walls as it passes through the ceiling.
  3. External chimney– is carried out through the attic to the roof level.
  4. Otter- another expansion of the thickness of the chimney walls, arranged to bridge the gap between it, the roof sheathing and its covering.
  5. Neck– continuation of the external chimney.
  6. Heading– thickening of the walls, which plays the role of a deflector.

Requirements for a brick chimney

The main one is the distance “from smoke” to combustible structures. It is equal to 250 mm - this is the full length of the ceramic solid brick.

The second requirement is strict verticality of the structure. Deviation from it by more than 3 degrees (per one meter of height) is not allowed. Also, there should be no through cracks in the brickwork.

Chimney calculation

The main criterion is the internal section. The ability to remove hot gases mainly depends on it. The more powerful the stove, the wider the chimney should be. There are three standard sizes used for one or another type of heating device.

  1. “Four” - a row of which is formed by four bricks. Section 125 by 125 mm. Used for kitchen stoves or heating stoves low power.
  2. “Five” is a rectangular chimney formed by a row of five bricks. Section 250 by 125 mm. Used for heating and heating-cooking stoves. It is not recommended to make chimneys for fireplaces smaller than this section.
  3. “Six” is a square pipe, a row of six bricks. Section 250 by 250 mm. It is used for fireplaces and Russian stoves - wherever minimal resistance to the movement of hot gases is required.

The second most important criterion in the calculation is height. It depends on the location of its output on the roof relative to the ridge:

  1. Pipes installed on the ridge or at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from it rise 0.5 meters above the roof.
  2. Chimneys passing through the roof at a distance of one and a half to three meters to the ridge are made equal in height to it.
  3. If the distance is more than three meters, then the angle between the ridge and the upper cut of the pipe should be 10 degrees.

Chimney laying

There is no fundamental difference between the laying of the solid furnace and chimneys. It is carried out on clay-sand mortar using the same tools - a furnace hammer-pick, trowel and plumb line. However, elements such as fluff and otter are laid out using large quantity pieces of brick measuring 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 of the whole.

To avoid chopping and cleaving, which are accompanied by clouds of brick dust and rarely give the desired result, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel for ceramics.

This guarantees the accuracy of the work, eliminates tedious work and a lot of useless brickwork.

Solution

For masonry up to the roof level, a mixture of sand and clay is used, since it has a coefficient of linear expansion similar to brick, which is a certain guarantee against the appearance of cracks.

Pure clay used as a binder can be either oily or lean. In some places there are deposits where the proportional ratio of the amount of clay to sand is optimal by nature: one to three or four.

When the volumetric part of the clay increases, the solution cracks after drying, and when it decreases, it crumbles. To determine the optimal ratio of volumetric parts, you need to knead the finished solution in your fingers. It should not be noticeably slippery or rough like sandpaper.

The excavated clay is soaked in an iron container for 3–4 days. The result should be a homogeneous clay pulp without stones, similar in consistency to liquid sour cream.

The sand taken from the floodplains of streams and rivers is very fine and dusty. It is not suitable for masonry. It is better to use one that consists of grains of 0.8–1 mm. It feels rough to the touch.

Clay and sand are mixed in volumetric parts in a ratio of one to three or four. Water is added gradually, in small portions. The finished solution should leave marks on the trowel (but not stick to it) and should not drain from it.

To avoid errors in proportions, it is better to buy a ready-made dry clay-sand masonry mixture. Please note that those marked “fireproof” are not suitable for masonry.

Brick

Red solid burnt brick is used.

Its edges should be smooth, without cracks, and the sound produced when it is lightly struck with a furnace hammer should be clear.

The standard size used for masonry is length 250, width 125 and height 75 mm.

It begins immediately after the damper is installed and the furnace roof is completed. The masonry techniques are the same - applying a layer of mortar, laying the brick, “shaking” it with your hand and lightly tapping it with a pick. Verticality and horizontality are checked after laying each row. They finish it four brick heights before the ceiling.

Laying fluff

The expansion of the thickness of the chimney walls is carried out to comply with the requirement that combustible structures be located at a distance of 250 mm “from the smoke”. The usual thickness of the chimney walls is 125 mm. To double it, you need to fold four rows, each of which moves outward by 1/8 of the width of the brick relative to the bottom one - just the amount that allows the brick to lie without flipping over. The principle of masonry for all three sizes is the same:

  1. The inner surface (toward the smoke) of the first row is laid out in 1/8 sections. The gaps between the outer bricks are filled in 1/4 sections.
  2. In the second row, the parts increase, respectively, to 1/4 and 1/2.
  3. The third row uses 1/2 and 3/4 pieces.
  4. The outer belt of the fourth row of fluff is laid out with whole bricks.

Having reached the ceiling, it is placed, observing the dressing of the seams, another two or three rows higher. A gap of 2–3 cm is left between the ceiling and it to eliminate pressure from the structure on the masonry. It is covered with mineral wool slabs. Laying up to the roof is carried out in the usual manner - with ligation of vertical seams and control of verticality.

Otter clutch

It begins after the edge of the chimney brick has risen above the roof. It is carried out outside, in compliance with all safety measures when working at height. You can use cement mortar. They start it from the edge that is lower along the slope. The distance from the smoke on each row is equal to 1/8 of the width of the brick. There should be a total of six rows in the otter. After it they put a neck - the usual continuation of the chimney. The gaps between the roof and the chimney are covered with a “collar” made of sheet roofing steel.

Head masonry

This is a chimney deflector that prevents smoke from clogging into the chimney due to air turbulence.

It is laid out in two rows, moving the first from the smoke by 1/8 of the brick, and the second by 1/2.

Its protrusions can be used to hook the clamps of the metal cap, which prevents precipitation from entering the pipe.

How much will it cost

Over the course of three centuries, the brick chimney on the roof has become a visual constant. And a building with such a finish looks, according to subjective assessments, much more attractive.

All that remains is to determine how much compliance with the canons will cost you. If you involve third-party craftsmen, the cost of the work will also be added to the cost of the brick. And she's quite big. In St. Petersburg and the region, for example, laying one brick will cost from 50 to 90 rubles.

Solid single brick grade M 150, which is used for laying stoves, costs from 15 to 20 rubles per piece.

The solution, if you prepare it yourself, is free.

Five kilograms of ready-made masonry mixture cost 60-70 rubles. One package is enough for 10-15 rows of pipes with a cross-section of 125 by 250 mm (sixes).

Let's compare the cost of a meter of a metal sandwich pipe with a diameter of 250 mm and a brick pipe with a cross-section of 250 by 250 mm. Just the kind that can be used for installing fireplace chimneys.

As you can see, the prices are almost the same. Of course, it’s worth adding the cost of laying the fluff, the otter and the head. But, given the better performance characteristics of brick pipes - lack of corrosion, greater heat resistance, it makes sense to spend money on such a purchase. And if you are planning to lay a brick chimney with your own hands, it will cost almost half the price of metal sandwich pipes.

Secrets of stove-makers' mastery

  1. Before laying, the brick must be soaked - lowered into water and wait until the violent eruption of air bubbles stops. Wet ceramic blocks adhere more firmly to the mortar.
  2. To split and chisel bricks, use a grinder with a diamond disc for stone.
  3. When laying in the attic, hang a plumb line on the rafters, between the future pipe and the workplace. This will save you from having to touch it to check. To control the verticality of the angle, it is enough to change the position of the head.

Do not forget that a chimney in a private house is not only convenience, but also technical device, requiring proper operation and maintenance. Clean it from soot, inspect it for cracks, heat the stove or fireplace with dry wood and it will serve well for many years.