Hello, dear friends. Today we will talk about very important, although sometimes not conspicuous, things. When planning the design or renovation of bathrooms, you should always consider the ventilation system. The problem of air exchange is a serious and very important stage of repair. SNIPs and standards regarding ventilation always prescribe in separate paragraphs the standard of air exchange standards in rooms in which there is an abundant release of water vapor.

It should be remembered that ventilation is not only a matter of comfort and convenience. First of all, it is very important for health. Moreover, in rooms from which water vapor is not removed in proper quantities, fungus or mold always grows.

If harmful flora has already begun to develop under the tiles or on the sides of the shower stall (and it is not so easy to notice the fungus; it develops very secretly for about a year), then the lack of a ventilation system helps it grow and spread in the form of spores through the air.

Construction manuals of all countries and peoples contain a number of standards that must be strictly followed in order to ventilate wet rooms.

Ventilation systems should enrich the bathroom with 25 cubic meters of air every hour. For a combined bathroom (bathtub + toilet), ventilation should bring 50 cubic meters air. Moreover, these standards are minimal.

Experts in ventilated systems advise ventilating the bathroom with an air exchange of 75 cubic meters per hour and 150 cubic meters for combined bathrooms.

There are two types of ventilation for bathrooms: natural and forced. The method of application of each of them depends on the specifics of air exchange. Natural ventilation ensures the exchange of air by sucking it in from the external environment, which can only take place due to a pressure difference.

Air masses can get inside through a window, door, ventilator, etc. It must be recognized that, in the case of a separate toilet room, natural ventilation is acceptable. However, for combined bathrooms, it often turns out to be ineffective.

Types of ventilation systems

Professionals advise using two types of ventilation systems:

  • duct ventilation system;
  • ductless ventilation;

The difference between these systems is obvious based on their names - in the first design there is a ventilation duct, in the second - air flow is provided without it.

When working with bathrooms or toilets, it is advisable to eliminate the creation of separate channels. It is customary to create an opening in the wall and exhaust exhaust air into the general ventilation branch of the building. This procedure is not only more convenient and less expensive, but also more rational. Of course, this is applicable in multi-story urban buildings. But if we're talking about about a private house, then it is necessary to design ventilation at the construction stages, during the process of erecting walls.

Air flow into the bathroom and toilet is realized, as a rule, through one channel - in the bathroom, after which an additional intermediate opening is created in the wall between the bathroom and toilet for the passage of exhaust air.

An exhaust fan designed for ventilation in the bathtub through the toilet can have a wide variety of appearance and size. But the most important thing is the fan power. It must match the current in the wiring.

The fans have the following design differences:

  • the axial model moves air parallel to the axis of the device. This is accomplished thanks to special blades. These systems are developed exclusively for ductless designs;
  • diametrical models, which have rather low productivity, have special drum-type wheels in their design;
  • a centrifugal-type device with a spiral casing guarantees extremely high performance, however, during operation the system creates quite a lot of noise;
  • The combined centrifugal-axial device is quieter and operates with the same efficiency as a simple centrifugal system.

Standards and requirements

Let's study SNIPs and others regulations in order to understand how much new air should come into the bathroom or toilet during ventilation.

According to regulatory documentation, bathrooms measuring about 10 square meters and more should receive new influxes of air masses every hour.

More than 30 cubic meters should leave the bathroom and toilet every hour. If the bathroom is large, then the calculation is based on the area of ​​a small living room and multiplied by 1.5 (due to high humidity). These are the ventilation standards, these numbers are the minimum requirements.

Criterias of choice

It should be understood that, in cases where natural ventilation It is not possible to implement it in toilets through bathrooms (it is not possible to guarantee the flow of even 20 cubic meters of fresh air per hour), which means that it is necessary to install forced ventilation systems.

There are three types of ventilation:

  • exhaust system;
  • supply system;
  • mixed.

As for exhaust systems, we have already discussed them - air comes from outside, and waste materials are discharged into ventilation ducts.

The principle of supply ventilation is different - air masses are pumped outside the bathroom or toilet, and then forced into the channels. This is the most optimal and rational system for apartments.

When ventilating a bathroom in a private house, it is best to use mixed systems. They combine exhaust and supply systems. Thanks to mixed technologies, air is removed and renewed with the greatest efficiency.

In order to hide the structures, decorative grilles are used. They can not only remove the technical details of ventilation from view, but also make the bathroom interior more stylish.

Household ventilation systems are:

  • channel;
  • radial.

Both types are intended for installation at the outlets of ventilation ducts. A duct fan usually has a rather mediocre design, since it is hidden in the duct itself. However, radial fans are usually equipped with an attractive housing; these systems not only provide effective air exchange, but also fit perfectly into the design of your interior.

Diagnostics of the current system, if available

Before you start upgrading your ventilation system or cleaning its filters, it is necessary to carry out routine diagnostics. The condition of the ventilation device installed according to the “to the bathtub through the toilet” principle must be studied thoroughly. There is no need to be lazy in removing the grilles and cleaning the inlets and outlets of the channels from dust.

To begin with, you need and. To do this, place a sheet of paper in front of the ventilation hole. If the paper sheet is strongly attracted to the ventilation niches, then there is draft. If the sheet is motionless, there is a clear lack of ventilation draft in the system.

It must be remembered that the design of the system is such that the pressure difference is due to the temperature difference, therefore on a hot summer day the draft is several times weaker than in winter or autumn.

However, even if draft is present and the exchange of air masses occurs perfectly, it is necessary to understand that this does not guarantee 100% complete operation of the ventilation systems.

Needed in mandatory check the channel status as much as possible as the situation allows. Channels can be cluttered with various objects, cobwebs, dust or fragments of concrete and brick after global repairs. Once the system is clean, there are no more obstacles in the way of air, and the ventilation devices themselves are clean, you can begin to modernize and improve the system itself.

The test with a sheet of paper must be carried out twice: the first time with closed doors, the second time - with open ones.

Check if available open door It is advisable to carry out this twice too - with open sources of air (open a window or front door) and when completely closed.

If after sealing the draft drops to almost zero, then you need to think about additional fans or compact ventilation devices.

Special grilles are installed in the doors of bathrooms and toilets - through them air flows inside even when the doors are completely closed.

DIY installation

When there is no ventilation system in the bathroom or toilet, then it’s time to start designing and installing it yourself. Such work is performed quite simply.

IN apartment buildings the systems are designed so that the ventilation ducts are located on the back side of the bathtubs and toilets. The whole procedure will consist of carefully creating a hole and leading it into the ventilation channel. High-rise buildings should already have niches leading to ventilation ducts.

It is customary to equip the niches themselves with radial and axial fans; the devices are connected to power sources, one of the wires is connected either to a separate switch or to the same one that opens the light circuit in the bathroom. This is quite convenient, since the fan will be guaranteed to work when the light comes on in the bathroom.

The range of modern systems on the market for ventilation products and services allows you to install many additional attachments - gyroscopes, temperature sensors, humidity and speed controllers, timers. After this, the hole is closed with beautiful decorative grilles.

In cases where the bathroom is not combined, when the bathroom contains a ventilation duct but the toilet does not, the same technology is used, only twice. The first fan is installed in a niche between the bathroom. and a channel, the second - in the second niche, between the toilet and the bathroom.

In the case when it is necessary to install ventilation in a toilet in a private house, you can make with your own hands not only the exit to the ventilation duct, but also the ventilation duct itself. Experts advise either taking into account the channels when constructing walls, or correctly connecting them to the exhaust system of the furnace (if there is one).

Let's move on to practical schemes and ventilation system projects.

System design

To install fans in wall openings, the most correct thing is to use not only decorative grilles, but also filtration systems. If you have to knock out an additional hole between the bathroom and the toilet (to conduct air), then the filter between the two rooms is a very rational part of the ventilation system. After all, polluted air from the toilet will not be able to penetrate into the bathroom.

Let's imagine in the figure how to connect the fan to the general wiring:

The ventilation system installation scheme consists of the following strategic steps:

  • installation of the air duct (it is important to choose correct diameter and length);
  • design the optimal exhaust system for bathrooms (taking into account the power of electrical wiring);
  • Make a neat, even hole in the toilet with your own hands (you can also use a professional);
  • Install ventilation in the toilet or bathroom;

When ventilation systems need to be implemented in toilets and bathrooms of private houses, it is necessary to start by organizing the connection of the ventilation duct to the common chimney; or create a ventilation duct.

When designing a new channel, it is necessary to carefully calculate all the stages of laying ventilation through the bathroom.

We advise you not to use metal ducts to create a ventilation duct for a private house. Not only that metal constructions oxidize and require dismantling and replacement every 5 years. If a ventilation duct for exhaust air is used with direct exit to the chimney, then due to carbon dioxide, the metal surface of the duct will become even more corroded.

The most rational way is to install plastic boxes. No wonder they almost completely replaced metal ones from the market.

Try to avoid corrugated pipes, they are optimal only for short ventilation ducts.

The boxes must be installed during all repair work. Moreover, it is advisable to install it before the process starts.

However, even after you have personally designed the entire system, made sure that it functions and complies with all standards, ventilation may fail. The problem may be with inaccuracies in calculating the cross-sections of ventilation ducts. Also, the most frequent mistakes is incorrect installation.

If a lot of time has passed after you built the ventilation system, and after this time the system began to noticeably malfunction, it means that a lot of debris has most likely accumulated in the channel, which falls either from the roof or from the air. If one of the neighbors did this major renovation, which affected the box, then the reason may be in the traffic jams of construction waste located across the air passage.

  • Experts advise not to put off inspecting the ventilation system until later; it is highly advisable to service the fans a little earlier before they begin to fail.
  • As a rule, if inspection is constantly delayed, then flakes of dust, cobwebs or poplar fluff get into the fan axis, for a long time The rotor and stator motor are blocked, after which the fan simply fails.
  • Of course, buying a new motor or fan entirely is a simple solution to this issue, but you will still have to clean the ventilation duct. It is much easier to do this work on time.
  • Do-it-yourself steps regarding fans include cleaning the blades of the fan propellers, thoroughly cleaning the ventilation grilles and replacing all filters (if any).
  • After this, you need to check the air draft using a sheet of paper or the flame of a lighter (we described above how this procedure is performed). If the flame from the lighter (or match) is deflected at an angle of 40-50 degrees, then the operation of the fan is considered normal; if the flame does not deflect, then the ventilation duct is considered clogged and further operation of the fan is a load.
  • In such cases, it is best to call a specialist, but you can also handle it yourself. If the ventilation system includes various attachments - external interfaces, sensors, thermometers, remote controls, then you should definitely contact a special organization.
  • Experts also pay special attention to the power of household wiring and electrical networks. Fans have two parameters by which they are distinguished - the pressure created and power. These characteristics are related because the greater the motor power, the greater the pressure. You need to know the condition of your wiring well and try to avoid high-power fans.

Each bathroom is characterized by a high level of humidity. In order to prevent such a phenomenon as the formation of mold or mildew, it is worth checking the serviceability of the ventilation system or installing optional equipment. Very often, many people have a question about how to make ventilation in the toilet with their own hands.

It’s easy to check the ventilation: a sheet of paper attached to ventilation hole, must not fall.

To prevent mold from growing on surfaces, there are several options for combating it:

  • insulate all surfaces - this method will prevent the formation of condensation;
  • Very effective method is a forced ventilation device.

Cleaning natural ventilation

To clean the ventilation from dust and debris, use a brush with a long flexible handle.

If the natural ventilation system in the toilet does not work well, it is worth cleaning the ducts. To do this, it is worth removing all accumulated dust and cobwebs from the channel. To carry out this procedure, you should use a brush with a long flexible handle.

Professionals who clean ventilation ducts may use a more dangerous cleaning option that uses a gas canister containing a flammable liquid. This method involves burning the dust. Carrying out such a procedure on your own without experience is strictly prohibited; it is better to entrust everything to specialists.

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Forced ventilation

In order for high-quality air exchange to occur in the toilet, it is worth making ventilation that will work automatically. This is very important to ensure that air with heavy odors and fumes does not penetrate into living spaces. The forced one must be equipped with its own exhaust duct. The owner will be presented with a choice of ceiling and wall-mounted ventilation systems.

Diagram of general ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.

For the toilet room, it is worth choosing a supply and exhaust system as forced ventilation. Such a system will regularly circulate air in the room. In addition, it does not involve cutting out an additional ventilation duct, which could subsequently compromise the strength and reliability of the wall.

Ventilation in the toilet, built with your own hands, is quite a simple matter, the main thing is to understand all the nuances. The need for ventilation often arises at a time when natural ventilation does not perform its basic functions well.

This problem is especially evident in summer time, this is due to the fact that the temperature outside and inside the room is almost the same, and the Bernoulli effect does not work. Also, the deterioration of natural ventilation is due to the fact that in apartments and houses plastic windows, which hermetically seal the premises and prevent the penetration of fresh air. Also, doors that close tightly prevent air from entering the toilet area. This problem is especially noticeable in upper floors high-rise buildings, where the temperature outside in summer is much higher than indoors. This problem is less noticeable on the lower floors, where the temperature difference remains even at minimum levels.

As an option, an automatic exhaust system can be installed, in which case the air will be forced out of the room to the outside. But it is worth considering that due to a lack of air in the room, the maximum efficiency of such a system will not be achieved.

The best option is to make ventilation in the toilet a supply and exhaust type.

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What may be required during the work process

Connection diagram for fan to light switch.

In order to make ventilation in the toilet with your own hands, you should purchase everything necessary tools and materials. Everything you need can be bought in a special section of a hardware store. It’s worth buying everything at once, having previously drawn up a plan according to which it will be installed coercive system

ventilation.

  • Examples of materials for creating forced ventilation:
  • tin boxes - today they come in a variety of shapes;
  • plastic boxes;
  • flexible air ducts, which are made in the form of a flexible aluminum pipe;
  • corrugated plastic pipes;
  • flexible plastic air ducts;
  • fans;

recuperators. In order to carry out installation work

  • When installing a ventilation system, it is worth preparing the necessary equipment:
  • tape measure and pencil for marking;
  • construction knife;
  • hammer for driving dowels;
  • drill and screwdriver;
  • screwdriver with different attachments;
  • fastenings - dowels, screws, self-tapping screws.

IN winter time years, it is very important to equip the ventilation system with supply valves.

Scheme for turning on a fan from a light switch with a timer.

This element is a regular hole in the wall with a pipe with one or two doors. The placement of the valves can be done manually or automatically. For maximum comfort, such a hole is located behind the convector or heating radiator.

This arrangement increases draft and simultaneously warms the air. This will allow you to use the ventilation system without additional fans. One valve is enough to ensure normal air exchange in one room. In order to protect the room from the penetration of debris, it is worth installing a grill.

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The use of recuperators in the ventilation system

For the toilet room after all the best option will equip the system with a special fan, which will significantly improve the performance of the entire system. This is especially necessary for the summer period. Modern technologies go forward, and one of modern elements, which can be equipped with a ventilation system, is a recuperator. This device will circulate air regardless of the weather conditions outside. In order to install a supply and ventilation system, you must:

Diagram of a supply and exhaust unit with a heat recuperator and supply air filtration.

  • 4 holes, which are connected in pairs with special components “street - room”, “room - street”;
  • the main essence of the system is that clean air is taken directly from the street and supplied to the premises, and exhaust air is discharged outside;
  • recuperators are equipped with special filters that clean the incoming air from dust;
  • recuperators operate automatically or using a control system.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible liner is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible liner for connecting plumbing is a hose different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

  • Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
  • Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
  • Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike water models, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

  • PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
  • made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
  • bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

The Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing fixtures and devices for connecting them to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

  • clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
  • aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
  • high groundwater table;
  • technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
  • violation water balance construction of irrigation systems;
  • The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

  • the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
  • arises oxygen starvation root-forming layer, which leads to the death of plant roots;
  • the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
  • intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

  • perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
  • at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
  • from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, rank;
  • from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

  • with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
  • water depth up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
  • if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
  • optimal depth of groundwater for Agriculture– from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of a sewer system in an apartment building, industrial building, and also in private households it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or incorrect installation of the entire involved sewer part and a system testing report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the object.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

High-quality indoor ventilation is probably one of the most important points that should be discussed when preparing for renovation. A bathroom in an apartment is a delicate place both in its purpose and in functionality.

High-quality ventilation of the bathroom and toilet will ensure a comfortable microclimate throughout the apartment, since the exhaust ventilation duct is located either in the combined bathroom or in the toilet. Faulty ventilation in the toilet and bathroom can harm not only fresh renovations and finishing materials, but also your health.

Types of bathroom ventilation

Ventilation in an apartment is of three types according to its purpose:

  • exhaust(exhaust air is removed through the ventilation shaft);
  • inlet(provides fresh air from the street into the room);
  • mixed(organizes air movement in the room due to the exhaust and supply type).

As a rule, in the bathroom they organize only exhaust ventilation. The air flow is easiest to organize in living rooms.

By design Ventilation in the bathroom is divided into ductless and ducted. Ventilation of the first type occurs due to an opening in the wall through which the exhaust air enters the general ventilation duct of a residential apartment building. Duct ventilation is a complex of ventilation equipment, most often in the form of pipes running under the ceiling. Suitable for servicing large premises: office buildings, shopping centers, etc.

According to the organization system air circulation in the bathroom, ventilation can be natural or forced.

At natural(or gravity) ventilation system, the flow of fresh air is carried out through windows and doorways, and the effectiveness of ventilation depends on the difference in temperature and pressure outside and indoors - the greater the difference, the better the air exchange. Simply put, fresh air enters the apartment through the window and exits through the exhaust ventilation duct.

However, natural ventilation in the bathroom does not always cope with its task.

Here are a few reasons why the apartment is not ventilated:

  • accumulation of debris in the ventilation duct;
  • tightly closed windows and interior doors.

It’s easy to check the tightness of the doors in the bathroom - there should be a gap under the door through which a newspaper will pass. If you are not satisfied with the presence of cracks, install a door with a ventilation grill.

Blocking the movement of air masses leads to increased humidity - a favorable environment for active life bacteria that can cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems. Humid air in the bathroom also promotes the formation of mold and mildew stains. Decoration Materials will begin to collapse, pipes will begin to rust, the service life of bathroom furniture and plumbing fixtures will be significantly reduced, the strength load-bearing structures at home will decrease. All this is fraught with costs for regular repairs.

The toilet in the apartment also needs high-quality ventilation so that unpleasant odors do not stagnate and cause discomfort to your household and guests.

Diagnosis of ventilation status

To check the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, you must:

  • open the window in any nearby room and the door to the bathroom;
  • Attach a piece of paper or a napkin to the opening of the ventilation shaft.

The air flow, which is not obstructed by anything, should attract the sheet of paper to the air duct grille. If this does not happen or the sheet holds weakly, then the natural ventilation system is broken.

Here are a few more factors that will help you understand that the ventilation is faulty:

  • the mirror fogs up a lot after taking a bath or shower;
  • feels heavy, damp air;
  • moisture accumulates on walls and furniture;
  • other types of mold have appeared;
  • unpleasant odors do not go away.

You might think that it is enough to clean the natural ventilation channels and breathing will become much easier, unpleasant odors will go away, and dampness in the bathroom and toilet will no longer spoil your expensive finishing and plumbing fixtures. However, this is not always enough.

A common myth from the world of room ventilation is that natural exhaust is productive all year round. Even if you don't watch on the walls and mirror surfaces do not fog up, it should be understood that the natural ventilation hood works when the air temperature outside the window is significantly lower than the temperature readings inside the room. The rest of the time it does not function.

The principle of operation of the gravity (natural) ventilation system is based on the difference in air density. Warm air is displaced by a cold stream, since it is lighter, and is discharged through exhaust ducts. This means that you can only get rid of dampness in the bathroom in the cold season if the window is open (or in ventilation mode), which is not always suitable for our frosty winters. Moreover, you will have to keep the doors open both in the bathroom and in the toilet.

Therefore, forced ventilation of the bathroom will come to your aid.

Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation of the bathroom and toilet is a reasonable alternative to the classic one. This method of ventilation involves installing a fan that will clean the air from unpleasant odors, including foreign odors from neighboring apartments, the entrance and the street.

Types of Exhaust Fans

Domestic fans that you can install in your bathroom include:

  • channel;
  • wall-mounted

A wall fan is fixed at the inlet of the exhaust vent, a duct fan is installed inside the air duct. Both types will ensure the removal of stale air and high-quality circulation.

Based on the type of design, fans are divided into:

  • Axial(aka axial). Advanced view. Available in price and installation. The body of the axial fan has the shape of a cylinder; inside there is a wheel with blades, most often with check valve. Rotating, the blades “capture” air and remove it from the room. The device is mounted at the entrance to the ventilation duct.
  • Radial. A radial fan consists of a motor, a rotating wheel with blades, and is enclosed in a metal casing. It has a spiral shape, visually reminiscent of a “snail”.

The fan may have the following set of devices and functions:

  • timer,
  • humidity and motion sensors,
  • operation from a light switch,
  • separate switch key.

The first two options are quite expensive and have their own inconveniences when used. The motion sensor is most often installed in the door, which requires additional investment and time. The disadvantage of a fan with a timer is that if you stay late in the toilet, the fan will stop working earlier than you expected. The motion sensor is inconvenient because under similar conditions (there was not enough time), you will have to open the door slightly for the sensor to work. This can put you in an awkward position, especially if you have guests in your apartment.

Basic requirements for organizing forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

To select a suitable fan, you must first familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP (Building Norms and Rules) in sections SP 60.13330.2012 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning” (updated edition of SNiP 41-01-2003) and SP 54.13330.2016 “Residential buildings multi-apartment" (updated edition of SNiP 31-01-2003). According to the standards of these sections, the volume of exhaust air in sanitary premises must be 25 m 3 /h.

Concerning noise level, modern fans are distinguished by their low noise. In individual cases, you can use sound-absorbing materials by installing them inside the air duct immediately before installing the fan. You can also purchase a virtually silent fan, but you will have to spend some money.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Even if you have ready-made air ducts, it is better to entrust the fan installation to specialists.

  • The higher the hood is located in the room, the better: warm air is forced out by cool fresh air and rises up.
  • When organizing bathroom ventilation in a private house, please note that the fan should be located opposite the source of fresh air (opposite the door or in the opposite corner) and further from the water source.
  • Before starting installation, you should clean the ventilation duct with a brush. If the ventilation shaft is filled with large debris, call a specialist from the housing office to clean the ventilation ducts.
  • If the bathroom is separate, a fan should also be installed in the ventilation duct in the toilet (bathroom), but provided that there is no ventilation window between the bathtub and toilet.

One of the main functions of the window between the bathroom and the toilet is natural ventilation. Such windows were popular in Khrushchev buildings.

The fan is mounted in the hood opening, securing the structure with self-tapping screws, dowels or construction adhesive. If necessary, you can expand the exhaust opening to a suitable diameter. Connect all the wires and hide them in a special box to protect them from moisture.

When connecting the fan to the lighting system, you should study the instructions in detail, turn off the electricity in the apartment, and only then begin installing the equipment.

A forced fan in your bathroom and toilet will ensure clean air and extend the life of your furniture and plumbing fixtures. Do not forget to maintain the fan by periodically wiping dust from the device, washing the plastic parts once a year and lubricating the motor of the mechanism.

High-quality ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an integral element of the comfort and cleanliness of these premises. Unlike other rooms, they are subject to increased demands for convenience and neatness.

The intended purpose of such sanitary facilities implies the need to constantly maintain close to ideal cleanliness. The ventilation system plays one of the leading roles in this process.

Clean and fresh air is an indisputable condition for a comfortable stay in the room. But if in living rooms this condition is quite simple to comply with by means of ventilation through windows, then in the toilet and bathroom there are some difficulties with it. Not every bathroom in a private home can boast of having a sufficient window opening. Features of the location of premises in an apartment rarely imply the presence of a window as such.

Typical multi-apartment buildings, as a rule, “hide” the sanitary area in a “blind” box of a small area with a common air ventilation duct. It is implemented as a small hole under the ceiling, working according to the natural supply and exhaust principle.

Consequences of poor ventilation

Sanitary facilities in apartment buildings equipped with windows are mostly shared bathrooms in high-rise buildings non-standard type. However, even if there is window opening ventilation in the bathroom and toilet may not be intense enough, which will certainly cause discomfort for residents and visitors.

In fact, the rooms that most need high-quality cleaning from odors and moisture have the most difficult hood operation mechanism. In addition, the appearance of unpleasant odors is far from the most dangerous problem of poor ventilation of the sanitary area. Accumulated excess moisture is a favorable environment for the development of fungal mold and pathogens.

To avoid violation of hygiene standards, it is recommended to promptly select the appropriate type of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet.

It is also possible to improve existing ventilation - you can do this yourself. This measure is quite relevant for typical high-rise buildings.

Two types of ventilation systems

Statement the best way How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet usually comes down to a choice between two main system options - natural and forced. Each of them has its own merits. The comparison of options should be based on the current need and the effectiveness of the established this moment systems.

There are practically no difficulties with how to check the ventilation in sanitary rooms. If an unpleasant odor persists in the room for a long time, a feeling of stagnant, stale air appears, and the level of humidity noticeably increases - this is a signal to check the condition and effectiveness of the vents. The appearance of fungus on the walls and damp deposits is direct evidence of the need for urgent modernization of the air exchange system.