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IN country house or at the dacha, a brick stove is still relevant, which heats the room and serves as an appliance for cooking. Using the instructions for ordering a heating and cooking stove, you can build a brick structure with your own hands, while significantly saving material resources.

When choosing which design to give preference to, you must take into account that there are the following types of stoves, depending on functionality:

  • heating brick stove intended only for heating the room. The structure is small in size (tetanus - Dutch);
  • Cooking types of brick stoves for the home are equipped with a cast iron stove, which is adapted for cooking and heating water. The stove is not suitable for heating a home (Swedish);
  • combined, universal heating and cooking structures with a hob, capable of heating different areas country house. Modern ovens are equipped with an oven and a niche for drying fruit and vegetable products. Stoves and fireplaces are often combined.

Advantages and disadvantages

Brick types of heating stoves differ in the thickness of the walls of the heating device:

  • thin-walled (Dutch) - the wall is 1/4 of a brick (6.5 cm). The design quickly heats the room, but practically does not retain heat. It is beneficial as a stove for a summer house, where the owners do not live in winter, but come for a short period;
  • thick-walled (Russian stove) - wall thickness - 12-25 cm (1/2 −1 brick). The unit takes a long time to heat, and the heat is maintained for longer than a day. The disadvantage of the building is that it requires a lot of firewood for the winter;
  • combined structures, in which the firebox is laid out with thick walls, and the chimney is made of 1/4 brick.

Types of stoves

To heat the house and cook food, brick stoves are used, which differ in the form of construction:

  • rectangular;
  • corner;
  • square;
  • T - shaped types of stoves;
  • round.

Various are used external finishing heating devices in a private house:

  • design “for jointing”;
  • plastered;
  • ceramic cladding;
  • finishing with a metal case.

Heating stoves are installed with different directions of smoke flows:

  • direct-flow and counter-flow;
  • single-turn and multi-turn;
  • with horizontal or vertical channels;
  • ductless and with bottom heating.

Each owner must choose before construction which furnace device suits him best.

General design of the heating structure

To independently build a brick heating stove for your home, you need to carefully understand the structure of the stove and the principle of its operation:

  • the heart of the device can be figuratively called the firebox, where coal or firewood is placed;
  • after fuel combustion, heated air enters the internal channel wells, the walls of which heat up, releasing heat into the room;
  • Below, under the combustion chamber, there is an ash pan, separated by a grate;
  • the ash chamber serves not only to collect combustion products, but also regulates the air supply to the fuel (by opening and closing the door, you can increase or decrease the air supply);
  • It is recommended to clean the ash pit as it fills, so as not to create a backdraft with smoke entering the living room;
  • The size of the ash pan is selected depending on the type of fuel. If you plan to burn with wood, the height of the ash pan is 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber; for solid fuel, a third is enough;
  • in the upper part of the firebox there is a hole through which smoke is directed to the chimney;
  • hot air passes through the heating channels and then exits through the pipe;
  • Soot is gradually deposited on the walls of the chimney, which should be cleaned regularly. Special doors lead to the cleaning chambers;
  • The stove diagram determines how to insert the oven, lay the cast iron hob, and install the tank for heating water.

Each type of stove for a brick house has its own chimney design. They help you figure out how to correctly lay heating stoves made of bricks, drawings of the heating and cooking stove arrangement, which indicate in detail the operating procedure.

Choosing a place in the house

To make the most of the quality indicators of the selected model, you need to know how to correctly position a brick stove for a home in the space of the room.

  • It is recommended to place heating and cooking devices in the house, taking into account the following nuances:
  • the best place to place a stove is at an intersection interior walls partitions. In this case, the hob and fuel door should be located in the kitchen area, and the heated wall should “look” into the room;
  • using brick stove designs, you can install a building right in the middle large room. In this case, the room is divided into 2 parts, and especially beautiful designs serve as interior decoration;
  • You cannot cover the walls with clothes or curtains, so as not to create a fire hazard;
  • at location heating stove near external wall, a significant part of the heat is spent on heating the street;
  • if the brick structure weighs more than 250 kg, it is necessary to make a solid foundation for the construction of a brick oven, which will not come into contact with the foundation of the house;
  • roof beams should not touch the chimney to avoid the risk of fire;
  • placed in front of the firebox a metal sheet, the edge of which is pressed against the brickwork of the stove.

To ensure smoke removal, the stove pipe must rise above the roof by at least 0.5 meters.

Required materials and tools

To install a wood-burning stove for your home, you should first prepare the necessary components:

  • cast iron hob with burners;
  • door for the combustion chamber;
  • ash pan door;
  • small doors for cleaning chimneys;
  • grate;
  • wire or steel tape to secure the doors;
  • steel reinforcing strips;
  • metal corner for edging the top of the device;
  • valve for shutting off the summer smoke flow;
  • metal sheet (pre-furnace) to ensure fire safety;
  • oven, container for heating water.

Brick stoves for the home - their drawings with orders are designed for a certain amount of red and refractory bricks. In this case, the structure is first laid dry in order to correctly select the required material and understand the operating principle of the heating device.


  • types of hammers: pickaxe, stove and rubber;
  • wooden spatula for mixing the solution;
  • levels: horizontal and vertical;
  • trowel (trowel);
  • pliers, rasp, chisel;
  • containers for solution, water;
  • sponge brush.

Which solution is better to use

The furnace laying scheme requires the use of various solutions during its construction:

  • to build a solid foundation, a solution of high-quality cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 is used. The structure is strengthened by adding gravel and reinforcement;
  • We lay the first (zero) row of the oven continuous with our own hands. The plane must be leveled horizontally and vertically. A cement-sand mortar is used;
  • The main body of the device with heating wells is laid out on a clay-sand mortar. It is taken into account that before using the structure for its intended purpose, the masonry must dry for at least 2-3 days;
  • to strengthen the combustion chamber, fireclay is added instead of ordinary sand, using the clay:sand:water ratio (1:1:0.25);
  • the pipe is decorated with cement or lime mortar to prevent the building from soaking during precipitation. It should be taken into account that the cement composition for laying furnaces is used within 1 hour. Subsequently, the mixture becomes unusable.

It is not recommended to prepare lime mortar yourself at home, so as not to harm your health. It is easier to use store-bought lime dough, which is used as a base when mixing the solution.

Main steps and important features

All the nuances of how to lay out a stove with your own hands are presented in the serial drawings of brick stoves for the home. You just need to use the presented material correctly.

Calculating the efficiency of the required device helps you choose the most suitable furnace drawings. At the same time, the standard of heat radiation with square meter The device area is considered to be 0.5 kW under normal conditions, and 0.76 kW in severe frosts. It is assumed that the house is well insulated from the outside.


To heat a living area of ​​100 square meters. meters, it is necessary to build a stove structure 2.5 m high, with a useful heating area of ​​17.5 sq. meters. In this case, in normal mode, 8.5 kW of heat is released, and during intensive use of the device - 13.3 kW. The heat transfer of cooking stoves is slightly higher due to the metal stove and oven.

What kind of stoves there are in terms of size, power, appearance is taken into account when choosing a suitable structure. All parts of the structure are interconnected, so when calculating how to install the firebox of a device with a stove, you must comply with the following requirements:

  • installation of the firebox according to the drawing always corresponds to the standard size of the laid brick. Therefore, it is recommended to first fold the stove dry;
  • The device for country needs is laid out with thinner walls; for constant heating it is better to lay a thick-walled firebox or purchase a ready-made cast-iron structure.

Step-by-step laying diagram of the simplest design of a heating and cooking unit

If you have no experience as a stove maker, but are familiar with the principles of masonry, you can build a simple device for cooking and heating the building with your own hands. A Swedish-designed stove with a separate cooking structure is most suitable for beginners.

Getting started - laying out the zero and first rows of the furnace device in continuous masonry, with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. In this case, it is necessary to carefully align the horizontal and vertical planes with a building level, to ensure the accuracy of the angles on the entire surface of the base of the future heating structure.

Order according to the scheme:

  • on the 3rd row, you need to lay out the blower chamber and begin installing the ash door (14x13 cm), securing it with steel wire or metal strips. 3/4 bricks should be installed on the sides of the device;
  • on the left, the construction of a chimney channel with a size of 14 cm begins. A cleaning door is installed in the wall to select soot, which is best replaced with a half brick placed on the edge;
  • on the 5th row, the ash door is covered with a brick, a 26x26 cm hole is formed for installing grates so that the ash from the burnt material pours into the prepared compartment;
  • on the 6th row, the blower is reduced to 20 cm, which is slightly larger in width than the size of the grate. At the same time, it is necessary to narrow the smoke channel to 26x26 cm;
  • in the 7th row, the bricks for the grate are slightly cut down to the size of the device so that the grate fits freely in the recess without being fixed with mortar;
  • on the 8th row, the area of ​​the lower section of the firebox is formed (52×26 cm), a cast-iron firebox door is installed;
  • 9, 10 rows are laid in accordance with the diagram, making sure to maintain the correct ligation of bricks, in which each masonry element rests on the 2 lower ones;
  • on the 11th row the combustion door is completely secured. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the weak masonry mortar. The perimeter of the furnace device is strengthened with a metal corner (30×30 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm);
  • the formation of the chimney shield continues until the 20th row, repeating even and odd rows without change;
  • on the 21st row, two vertical chimney channels are combined into one, forming a horizontal overlap of rows 22-23;
  • the hole in the third channel is lined with bricks, observing dressings, forming a pipe for removing smoke.

The finished oven must be dried for 10-15 days with the doors open. Then it is recommended to gradually heat the device - first with thin branches, wood chips, gradually switching to wood fuel.

What to consider when laying a heating unit

Mandatory fire safety standards:

  • the foundation of the heating structure should not come into contact with the foundation of the residential building;
  • maintained minimum distance between the heating structure and wooden wall at home - 26 cm;
  • the size of the metal sheet in front of the firebox is not less than 50×70 cm;
  • elevation above the floor of the zero row - 14 cm or more;
  • a gap of 35 cm (no less) is maintained from the top of the structure to the ceiling;
  • the thickness of the chimney wall in the attic compartment is 12 centimeters or more;
  • if the top attic space made of flammable material, it is necessary to fill the area with sand, 10-13 cm deep;
  • the structure of the pipe above the roof is increased in width - at least 13 cm;
  • if the pipe stands 3 meters or more from the ridge, its top is located 10° from the horizon line of the ridge;
  • in cases where the distance is less than 3 meters, the pipe should rise 50 cm above the ridge.

How to fold a stove yourself

When laying it yourself, it is important to fully adhere to the chosen design order. In this case, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern so that each element rests on the 2 lower ones. You must first stock up on the required number of halves and quarters of bricks.

It is recommended that each row be laid dry first in order to remember the place of each brick in the masonry. The thickness of the seams is maintained within 3-5 cm. Excess mortar must be removed in a timely manner, without waiting for it to harden. Plastering the chimney is not allowed, as heat transfer will be disrupted.

If there is a gap between the door frame and the brickwork, it should be sealed with asbestos cord.

The structure of the heating and cooking unit must meet all the requirements of the drawing - only then will the hand-made product serve for a long time.

Heating a home is a primary factor in a person’s comfortable home in the autumn and winter. Despite other options for heating a house, there are no fewer people who want to make a brick fireplace.

Skillful home owners can easily lay a classic brick stove with their own hands; the masonry technology is described in articles and books. But if one part is not executed accurately, the operation of the fireplace becomes uncomfortable. There is smoke in the room or there is a fire hazard. It is better to invite a professional stove maker who will build the stove according to the rules.

The standard design consists of parts:

  • foundation or concrete base Houses;
  • housings with technological parts;
  • chimney to remove combustion products.

Brick stoves for houses have become separated during centuries of use. by method of operation. Among them are:

Heating hearths are built only to heat the home; they do not perform other functions. It is impossible to heat water or use such a brick structure for cooking. The design scheme is simplified, the service life is measured in decades, but its use is rare. IN last years, after installing water circuits, such heating centers in a brick house do not occur.

Furnaces installed in the house for culinary purposes. Sometimes slabs are built in open areas, verandas or summer kitchens. The design is selected so that heat is released only in the area of ​​the hob. Brick hobs are installed only in rooms with organized heating or in places where heating is not required.

Due to its increased functionality, the heating and cooking model of a brick hearth is in demand among owners. Smoke ducts in the furnace design receive combustion heat to heat the room. The housewife prepares food on the hob. Sometimes an oven is installed in a brick hearth for baking. The valves regulate the degree of heating, and in the summer the oven is used only for cooking. These dampers determine the degree of smoke emission during external pressure surges.

BBQ and grill They are arranged in summer in open natural areas in front of the house or under a canopy. Simple brickwork with a chimney in the form of a cap, the walls of the brazier simultaneously act as a support for the grate. The owners sometimes install a full-fledged kitchen in such a place, supply water and sewer drains.

A brick stove structure for a bathhouse is arranged as a heating array that produces dry steam. When laying, one should not neglect the little things; shortcomings and inaccuracies will lead to incomplete combustion of fuel. Incorrectly fitted bricks run the risk of releasing toxic, carbon monoxide or carcinogenic gases.

Russian stove becomes the soul of the house. It is impossible to argue with this concept. In the oven section of the hearth, ancient dishes are prepared that cannot be cooked in a metal oven. In addition to heating the rooms adjacent to it and cooking food on the stove, the Russian stove is equipped with a lounger for sleeping after the fire is finished. In ancient times, colds and diseases of the musculoskeletal system were treated on such a warm bed.

What does furnace breathing mean?

When warming up, the walls release into air space rooms, damp vapors cool and are absorbed back into the room. When talking about a healthy climate in a house with a brick stove, this property is implied. Comfort threshold in the house is reduced compared to others heating boilers up to a temperature of 18ºС. Even with it, the relative humidity approaches the standard value and people feel comfortable, which cannot be said about other heating centers.

Heating with water coolants increases the threshold of comfortable temperature to 20-22ºС, electric and gas heating make this indicator one degree higher. A brick stove for a home with a heat transfer coefficient of 50% is more cost-effective than metal hearths With useful work in 70%.

Requirements for the operation of a brick kiln

  • economical heat transfer and complete thermal conductivity;
  • operation for decades;
  • stand-alone model;
  • combining two or three functions;
  • warming up the room to create a comfortable microclimate;
  • simplified design;
  • attractive appearance without spoiling the aesthetics of the room.

Unlike the metal model, the red brick hearth accumulates heat and releases it slowly. The duration of intensive heating of the house continues within 15-20 hours. Smoke is removed through ceramic brick chimneys by natural draft. The air enters through the room where the stove is installed and ventilation is not neglected.

Heat transfer without residue is ensured by the complex structure of the smoke channels. To stop the draft after the heating process is completed, close the damper on the main pipe. Dry hardwood logs are considered suitable firewood. After combustion, ash is formed, which enters the receiving compartment for further cleaning.

So that the house is heated everywhere, the hearth is built in the center of the home, and the rooms are arranged in a cross pattern. Each of them contains a part of the furnace coarse for heating.

There are no difficulties when operating the oven. In addition to the exciting kindling, the owner’s mood is created by the smell of smoke escaping from the hearth or the contemplation of dancing flames on the wood.

Household waste and residues must not be used for fuel. building materials. Decoration Materials release many substances harmful to the body. Decomposition products during combustion of materials are released by heating and accumulate on the walls of the stove and chimney, making periodic cleaning difficult.

The disadvantages of a brick fireplace include:

  • the constant need to clean the chimney pipe twice a year;
  • frequency of adding fuel manually.

Provisions for the furnace device

Designing a stove according to the rules means following the principles of choosing a material and determining the design of the fireplace. Construction of a stove from materials of poor quality will lead to premature damage to the integrity and the need to remake the brick stove structure. An inexperienced owner of a stove maker whiles away the evenings with a taste of smoke, or even lives in an unheated room.

Construction of a heavy furnace with a number of bricks above 500 pieces or with a heavy red brick chimney is carried out on a separate foundation. The stove is placed on the base of the house if it is made in the form of a solid slab. A separate base of the hearth is built without connection with strip foundation housing.

Construction of only a light hob is permitted on the floor with pre-reinforced joists. Underneath it is reinforced thermal insulation and a heating panel. If a house is being built along with a stove, then the location is selected according to the construction plan. In a house that is already in use, the new stove is oriented to the location of the central chimney. The installation of a new chimney is done so that the beams of the roof structure are not sawed. The distance to the nearest wooden roof rafter is at least one meter.

Small hearths bet on wooden floor, laying insulating layers. But the decision is made only in exceptional cases, since the furnace is built for decades, and wooden base fails before a brick stove hearth.

Pipe stove chimney rises above the roof surface by 50 cm and above. This distance increases as the chimney approaches the roof ridge.

How to decide on materials

Quarry sand is used for laying furnaces; the use of river and sea sand is limited due to the hewn edges of sand grains by water waves. And quarry sand consists of grains of sand with ragged edges that adhere to other materials in the solution. Before use, the sand must be sifted and washed with water.

The furnaces are being laid I'm made of ceramic red brick, silicate is not used due to its hygroscopicity. Brick is chosen for laying the combustion chamber and chimney premium red in color, without cracks or inclusions with a ringing sound when tapped.

The laying of secondary partitions inside the body of the furnace is done with second-grade brick of a faded pink color and a dull echo. Burnt material Brown used for the construction of foundations, but the furnaces themselves are not built from it.

Stones are also used, obtained from the dismantling of buildings. The laying of the front surface is not carried out from specimens on which soot has adhered. After whitewashing, such a surface produces black streaks throughout the year. It is undesirable to use bricks after laying them on cement or lime mortar, even cleaned ones.

The solution is prepared using clay, which acts as a binding material. Clay is divided into lean, medium and fatty grades. For stove masonry, average material values ​​are used that maintain critical temperatures during operation.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

Clay, which acts as a binding material, is not used independently in the solution. The oven is built on a clay composition with the addition of sand and cement. It does not crack and does not allow smoke to pass through in the heat of the oven. The seams are made up to three millimeters thick; for such masonry, thirty liters of mortar are consumed per hundred stones. For plasticity, one kilogram of cement and a glass of salt are added to a bucket of clay mortar.

Water carefully mixed with clay and leave to soak for two weeks, stirring the solution periodically. Sand and cement are added after the end of the period. The amount of sand is determined by the fat content of the resulting solution. The skinny one will flow off the shovel and will not leave a trace, but the fat one will stick in a lump and will not budge. Achieve average characteristics. Finishing with plaster is done with cement-sand mortar with the addition of lime.

Stores sell ready-made masonry mortars in the form of a dry composition for installing stoves. In terms of characteristics, they are not inferior to those prepared independently; they contain organically balanced components and additives. If there is no time for the complex preparation of clay mortar, they use improved dry construction mixtures.

Furnace foundation

By design, it is built as a monolithic solid, strip, prefabricated reinforced concrete or made of brick. Width exceeds oven base on the sides by 5-7 cm. The constructed base is insulated with two layers of roofing material or coated with two layers of bitumen mastic. Asbestos is laid on top, then a metal sheet, finished with a layer of cardboard or construction felt impregnated with liquid cement-sand mortar.

After this, they begin to build the furnace, checking each brick according to a pre-developed scheme.

Using a wood-burning brick stove to heat a private home justified by many advantages. The owners of such devices felt comfort and coziness in houses with stoves. Cost savings and an environmentally friendly atmosphere play a significant role. Such ovens are the future.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing necessary materials and how to properly place a stove in a private home for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

  1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
  2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
  3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, a special one is required fireclay clay. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

  • plumb line;
  • trowel;
  • roulette;
  • putty knife;
  • Bulgarian;
  • knitting wire;
  • building level;
  • metal strips, corners;
  • containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about a fairly simple way to create a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grating is not laid on a simple one, but on fire brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.

The next brick row is laid.

For refractory bricks on a par with brick row The fireplace grate is installed.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, but the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

Wood stove in the country or in country cottage can be a more than useful acquisition. It is completely autonomous from external networks. Where electricity is often cut off and centralized gas supply is still not implemented, people cook with wood and heat the house with it.

If a decision is made to provide housing in such a way useful device, it doesn’t hurt to study the types of brick stoves for your home in order to choose the most convenient, efficient and practical option.

We offer you to understand the traditional design of the furnace, the design and operational features of various heating and cooking units, as well as learn the methods and specifics of arranging a smoke circulation system.

Any brick oven consists of the main elements:

  • foundation - the base on which a brick unit rests, weighing several tons;
  • array - part of the stove, including cooking and combustion chambers, a system of smoke channels - smoke circuits, a ash pan with a grate;
  • chimney - a chimney pipe rising above the stove mass.

The foundation for such a bulky and heavy structure is arranged separately from the main foundation of the house.

If there is a strip or column base under the building, you need to make sure that it does not come into contact with the foundation of the stove. This will avoid the occurrence of deformations from an unevenly distributed load, because under a brick unit it will be much higher.

The design of any heating and cooking stove consists of the main elements that provide sufficient draft: a blower, a grate, a firebox and smoke circulation channels

Monolithic foundations in private houses, especially small ones, are rare. If there is one, the stove can be installed directly on it. It is best to include the construction of such an object in advance general project. When the house is already ready, the appearance of such additional load should be agreed upon with an experienced engineer.

The base of the furnace separates the combustion or gas chamber from the foundation. These are several rows of solid brickwork, which heat up and release some of the heat to the room, and also protect the base from overheating.

Above the base they make what is called a firebox. Below, under the combustion chamber, a small cavity is arranged - an ash pan. Above it is the actual firebox, in which the fuel burns. The blower and firebox are separated by a grate made of durable cast iron.

The firewood is placed directly on this grate. Through the blower and grate, the air necessary for combustion enters the fuel. At the same time, the necessary draft is created to remove smoke gases through the chimney system. But its design depends on what type of brick oven was chosen for the house.

The device can also be supplemented with elements such as a hob and oven. There are oven options with drying chambers and even with warm beds. Understanding the principles of the structure and operation of such a structure will help you choose the right type of stove, as well as resolve issues related to its construction.

Various functional purposes

First you need to decide on the functions that the device will perform.

This could be a stove:

  • only for cooking;
  • exclusively for heating the house;
  • to perform both of these functions, i.e. combined option.

Cooking oven Most often they are installed in small free-standing kitchens. The heat from burning wood is abundantly enough not only for cooking, but also for heating such a room.

Therefore, the device is placed next to two external walls so that excess thermal energy moves outside. In this case, the chimney is strictly vertical and small in size.

Heating stove. The design provides for maximum retention of thermal energy within the house. Such a device has neither a stove nor an oven, but the oven array is equipped with an extensive smoke circulation system.

A bulky chimney is necessary so that combustion products do not leave the house too quickly and have time to heat up brickwork, which then releases heat to the indoor air. Such a stove is placed as close to the center of the house as possible so that individual rooms are heated evenly.

Detailed information about the installation of stove heating in a private house is presented in.

A brick hob with a metal oven can be an excellent alternative to the usual gas equipment if there is no gas or electricity

For its installation, both a hob and a branched chimney are used. They place it in the kitchen, but not near the outer walls, but next to the inner ones. The chimney is also moved to the side if possible living rooms to provide them sufficient quantity heat.

Types of heating and cooking stoves

History goes back centuries, if not millennia. IN different countries the most best models received well-deserved distribution.

Such designs are still used today, both in their classic form and with some additions.

Russian stove: complex and effective

The traditional Russian stove is a big universal device. Although there is no cast iron cooktop, you can cook food on it. The massive body perfectly warms the room, and in the upper part there is a warm bed.

The traditional Russian stove is complex, but after a short period of active combustion it glows for 24 hours, warming the room, the bench and providing the opportunity to cook food

The long firebox is divided into two zones: the bakery, located in the front part, and the firebox, where the wood is burned. This oven operates in two modes. First, it is heated for some time. During this period, the device accumulates heat. After this, the heated stove glows for about a day, slowly releasing thermal energy.

During this period, you can cook in the bakery various dishes with that unique taste that no other cooking unit can give them. The characteristics of the Russian stove are determined by the special nature of the movement of air flows inside the device.

The design of the Russian stove contributes to maximum conservation of thermal energy due to the fact that streams of smoke and fresh air move side by side, exchanging heat, but without mixing (+)

In front of the fuel chamber there is a so-called bend, the area above it is called the overpipe, and even higher there is a tapering top - hailo.

Thanks to this device, a recovery zone is formed in the combustion chamber, where the smoke coming out of the firebox heats up the oncoming flow of fresh air. In this case, the flows do not mix, oxygen enters the furnace in full.

The arrangement of the fuel chamber is also unusual. The bottom of the firebox is uneven; it is laid out with a rise relative to the cooking chamber. The upper arch is also not horizontal, it is higher in the rear, lowers closer to the mouth and ends with a threshold.

A long cavity called an oven is made between the base and its fuel chamber. It is always warm here; it is often used for storing firewood. In such conditions, the fuel dries well, it burns faster and transfers heat better.

On our website there is a block of articles dedicated to self-construction different models Russian stove, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with:

“Dutch” - a simple heating unit

The Dutch stove was originally created for heating. It differs from the traditional Russian one in its simpler and easily modernized design. The design and dimensions can vary depending on the situation, for example, the size of the house.

An interesting feature of the Dutch oven is its tile decoration. It was from the Netherlands that this option migrated to Russia and is now widely used for interior decoration

At the bottom there is a combustion chamber, at the top there is an extensive network of smoke circuits, including several vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal jumpers. As a result, the path along which smoke travels is lengthened, and heat remains in the house.

The vertical channels of the Dutch oven flue exhaust system can be made as high as necessary. They are built up to the entire height of the second floor, and sometimes to the third or fourth floor, in order to properly heat the entire house

In modern versions, the “Dutch” is also complemented hob, but initially the hearth was installed separately for these purposes.

Swedish oven: an interesting combination option

Another interesting option for a novice master, this is a Swedish stove. Its design was developed by Swedish scientists not so long ago, in the middle of the 18th century. They took the Dutch one as a basis and greatly improved it.

The Swedish oven is the result of careful calculations. With its quite compact size, it warms up quickly, allowing you to cook food, heat the house, etc.

The lower part of such a stove is wider; at the bottom, in addition to the combustion chamber, there is an oven installed on the side. As a result, the first heat from fuel combustion does not escape through the chimney duct, but works to warm up the oven. If you open it, the heat will warm the floor and rise up.

The firebox itself is a version of a simplified bell, where both primary combustion of fuel and chemical secondary combustion occur. A niche is made in the upper part of the structure, which was traditionally used for drying clothes that got wet during the day.

A characteristic feature of the “Swedish” is three niches located at different levels. Explanations for the diagram: 1 – oven, 2 – hob, 3 – niche above the stove

An oven installed on the side of the firebox quickly accumulates primary heat. The cabinet above the stove was used to store food prepared in the evening; by morning it remained warm and quickly reheated in the oven.

The vertical system of smoke circulation channels warms up the house well, but when the firebox is open, the heat quickly evaporates; you just need to remember to cover it after firing.

This stove is heated twice a day. The efficiency of the “Swedish” stove is almost as high as that of the Russian stove, while folding it is easier, cheaper, and it takes up less space. But high efficiency is achieved thanks to accurate calculation, so during laying you will have to strictly observe the dimensions and proportions.

Smoke circulation options for brick stoves

Efficiency wood stove largely depends on the type of its chimney. Properly organized movement of smoke gases allows you to retain heat and effectively remove fuel combustion products without endangering the health of the occupants of the house.

This design could be:

  • with horizontal channels;
  • with vertical channels;
  • combined.

Based on the direction of movement of flue gases, stoves with smoke circulation are divided into direct-flow and counter-flow. In the second option, the smoke, before flying out into the chimney, makes several revolutions inside one of the smoke chambers. At this time he is moving in two different directions.

System with horizontal channels used infrequently. It heats the oven more evenly, but for each horizontal level you will have to make a cleaning door. A modification of such a chimney can be an option with pockets. These cavities will trap smoke for some time and increase the efficiency of the stove.

A horizontal chimney is simple to implement and less susceptible to blowing out than its vertical counterpart. The addition of pockets will make the oven more efficient

Vertical channel. The operating principle of such a chimney was described above as characteristic feature Dutch ovens. In such a system, less soot accumulates and is easier to clean.

But here the resistance to the movement of the smoke flow increases, so it is necessary to make such a chimney long enough to ensure normal draft. IN vertical version the first channel warms up more than the others.

This temperature difference can cause damage to the masonry. To improve the situation, you can arrange a cross-flow option, in which the middle channel is made much wider than the outer ones. The cross section here will be larger, this will slow down the flow rate and make heating more uniform.

The chimney bell system allows you to retain more heat for a long time. A similar effect can be achieved by creating combined structures using various elements.

Unlike a vertical smoke circulation system, there is no danger of the gases quickly blowing out and the stove cooling down. The dimensions and configuration of the cap may vary.

When designing a stove, you can combine hoods with vertical chimney elements to obtain an effective design and increase efficiency.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Heating stove - “Swedish”:

Small “Dutch”:

Brick stoves are very diverse; you can always choose or design an option that is suitable for specific conditions. General requirement for all models is an exact calculation, use quality materials and proper operation.

Do you have anything to add or have questions about choosing a brick stove for your home? You can leave comments on the publication, participate in discussions and share your own experience of using stove heating. The contact form is located in the lower block.

The brick oven is still popular today, despite modern solutions. The main advantage is that it breathes. When a brick body heats up, moisture vapor is released into the room, and when it cools, it absorbs it back. Because of this, the dew point is maintained at an optimal level for humans.

In addition to the positive effect on health, there is another advantage: when calculating optimal temperature, the indicator can be reduced to 18°C, due to the ideal humidity ratio during the heating season. In brick and wooden houses the stove saves on fuel: at 17 ° C, a physically healthy person does not feel discomfort. And in a concrete house and at 18 ° C, feels chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperature is 22 ° C, and when using an IR emitter, electrical and gas heater, a degree higher. Therefore, a brick kiln, with an efficiency of 50%, is more economical modern solutions with efficiency from 70%. Heating season starts later, ends earlier. For middle zone this is a difference of a week, and in the south up to 3.

Materials and devices

Brick

Kiln bricks differ from fireclay bricks; in some sources they are confused. Their common size is: building brick 250x125x65 mm, standard oven brick 230x114x40 mm. If you look at it, then kiln brick- this is a high-quality M150, red. It is suitable for the construction of Russian and Dutch ovens. With a heat resistance of 800 ° It can also be used to make stones for the home, but it cools quickly and absorbs little heat, so it is used only for open fire sources where heating is not needed.

Fireclay bricks are used for the combustion chambers of furnaces with high thermal conditions: bathhouses, Swedish stoves, bell-type furnaces. Heat resistance - 1600 °C, which is enough for a home oven. Its high heat capacity makes it an excellent heat accumulator. But because of these features, the stove is not made entirely of fireclay bricks, otherwise it would quickly heat up and also cool quickly. On the outside, the masonry must be lined with ceramics, at least half a brick in size.

Fireclay clay from different deposits has different colors, but this does not affect the characteristics in any way and it is impossible to determine a quality product by appearance. The size and designations are no different from usual.

How to recognize a good brick:

  • Fine-grained structure without pores or inclusions.
  • When tapping a brick with a hammer, a good product ringing sound, the bad one is deaf.
  • If you drop a good brick from a height, it will shatter into large pieces, and a bad one into small pieces and dust.

When laying the internal openings of home stoves, clinker brick has proven itself well. It consists of ceramics and, although unprepossessing, appearance shows good heat resistance and strength. Clinker is cheaper than fireclay, but more expensive than red.

Sand

If you expect your stove to last 10 years without regular repairs, then you need to use mountain sand without impurities in the solution. Other species contain a large number of organics, which leads to cracking of the seams. Clay sand is ground broken brick, the price is cheaper than mountain sand, and the quality of the masonry is in no way inferior.

Masonry mortars

When laying stoves for the home, clay and sand solutions. For chamotte, white kaolin and chamotte marl are used. With ceramic bricks - ground clay with refractory qualities (gray or blue Cambrian, gray kaolin). For 100 pcs. you need 40 kg of clay.

When buying clay, pay attention to the smell; if you smell it, this indicates impurities, which are not suitable for building a furnace. Before laying, you need to determine the fat content, i.e. the combination of viscosity with adhesiveness, for the correct sand ratio. Clay of the same quality, but from different deposits, differs in this indicator. To check, 1 kg of powder is filled with water to the top edge and allowed to stand for a day. Fireclay marl sours in 2 hours.

The soured clay is moistened with water and stirred until the consistency of a thick dough is achieved. The resulting composition is divided into 5 equal parts and each is mixed with sand in different proportions (10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% of the volume). Then dry for 4 hours. From each sample, make sausages with a diameter of 1.5 cm, at least 30 cm, wrap them around a round object with a diameter of 5 cm and look:

  • If the solution settles without cracks, then it is suitable for building any stove.
  • The dry crust has torn, small cracks have appeared - the material is suitable for use.

    • The cracks spread 1 mm deep - for furnaces whose temperature does not rise above 300 ° C (country fireplace, barbecue).

  • Fractures, deep cracks, breaks - high sand content, unsuitable for use.

Testing brick sand to determine the correct ratio will allow you to save a lot; high-quality clay is more expensive.

The working solution is made according to the same principle:

A forging of commercial clay produces 4 buckets of solution.

Furnace appliances

Stove appliances (latches, doors) are attached to the stove with mustaches that fall on the seams or with a steel skirt wrapped in 5 mm asbestos cord. The first option is the cheapest, but is not suitable for ovens, fireboxes and heat dampers, and quickly becomes unusable. And to replace it, it is necessary to disturb the masonry, which is bad for the stove.

Masonry and dressing

Depending on which side of the brick is on the outside, the masonry is divided into bonded and spooned. “Bed” masonry, when the brick is laid on a spoon or a butt, is prohibited by SNiP due to its fragility, but is applicable in extreme cases, for external decoration.

The masonry is done with bandaging of the seams, the rows of bricks should be offset. Otherwise any microcrack will go further than the point of origin, destroying the integrity of the structure. There are a large number of dressing methods; they often have to be changed during the construction of a complex chimney according to the drawing.

Principles of bricklaying:

  • The bond row begins and ends the laying.
  • Each brick must stand on 2 others.
  • Adjacent rows of bricks should overlap by 1/4 in width and length.
  • If the vertical joints are not filled with mortar, the masonry will spread into layers.
  • There should be no overlap between the vertical seams of the spoon and butt rows.
  • Areas under beams, protruding thresholds, liners - only butted.
  • Hewn bricks are not used outside.

The minimum seam width is 2 mm, the maximum is 3 mm. Allowed widening in masonry up to 5 mm, in the vault and ceiling rows - up to 13 mm. At the junction of ceramic and fireclay masonry, the maximum width is 5 mm. All rows of masonry must be tied.

When constructing partitions, bypass windows are made at the bottom and top. The pass is done simply - 2 bricks are skipped. But this won’t work with overflow, otherwise there will be a hanging wall. The supports of the butts alternate every 3 rows with the windows of the spoon.

The walls of the convector are made in order, and the shield is made using spoons with a regular dressing.

The vaults in household ovens are made semi-circular. Laying order:

The seams on the wings should not coincide with the lock seams. To avoid this, in the drawing they are performed in a mirror image, and not in a shift. The divergence angle should not exceed 17 degrees. To do this you need to use a brick standard size, thickness of internal seams 2 mm, external 13 mm.

Number of bricks

Before the widespread use of computers, the number of bricks for construction was calculated according to special coefficients for projects with the addition of 15% for defects and theft. But at current prices for materials, such an approach is unacceptable. Now all buildings are calculated using CAD ( computer-aided design systems). The program will automatically produce the required number of full-size, shaped and longitudinal bricks, according to the drawing. But when self-construction ovens, the most in a simple way There will be a counting in order. For an average oven this will take an hour, but will allow you to count materials with an accuracy of 2%.

"Buslaevskaya" stove for home

The design is equipped with a built-in hood and is well suited for the home, as it can be used not only for heating (lower), but also for cooking (upper). To build the “Buslaevskaya” stove, you will need:

Order of the “Buslaevskaya” furnace:

  • I - full row.
  • II - blower.
  • III - cleaning window.
  • IV - the bottom of the oven is lined with refractory material and lined with iron on three sides.
  • V - the combustion door, grate, and cleaning cover are installed.
  • VI - installation of DS.
  • VII - around the DB the refractory is installed on the edge.
  • VIII - full row
  • IX - the upper part of the oven is coated with clay (1 cm).
  • X - smoke circulation is set.
  • XI - creating channels and laying 25 cm strips, overlapping cleanings.
  • XII - installation of fastening wire and completion of cleaning.
  • XIII - cap.
  • XIV - overlap.
  • XV–XVI - pichurki.
  • XVII - small pichurka is lined with iron.
  • XVIII - the edges of the side walls are hewn.
  • XIX - masonry of projections.
  • XX - installation of a corner, duplication of the projection.
  • XXI - chimney overlap.
  • XXII - reducing the chimney diameter to 0.26x0.13 m.
  • XXIII - and all the following rows - is a chimney.

When using clinker bricks for cladding, the dimensions of the kiln increase. It is not recommended to use it instead of full-bodied. Covering the structure with tiles will ensure a long service life.

The technology for creating stoves for the home differs from traditional ones. Laying rows without using mortar, according to the order, is often used. To give the desired shape, the brick is hewn and trimmed. The dimensions of the stove are smaller than the walls of the house and carefully measure the diagonals before construction. Make a control measurement every 4 rows. This is convenient to do with the help of a stretched cord and rules.

Using a ready-made solution will help significantly save time. You will not need to soak the clay for 2 days, strain through a sieve, and knead to the required consistency. To prevent rapid drying, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The absence of rectangular ledges in the design will help save on operating costs. During laying, control the thickness of the joints and remove excess mortar. When building a furnace they use different materials and use different solutions to join them. Fireclay brick does not mix with clay brick, ovens, cast iron and steel plates, rods, water tanks, gratings are not embedded in the masonry. It's connected with different indicators expansion of materials during heating.