Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.
To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).
I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).
I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!
I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.
The general scheme for building a vacuum cleaner is as follows:
The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).
The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.
A suitable tin can was very useful for the cyclone body, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.
The inlet pipe is made to fit a 50 mm plastic sewer pipe into which the hose in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.
The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.
I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)
The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.
The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.
The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.
For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.
The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto sealant.
To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).
After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure with polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.
For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.
The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.
When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.
The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.
To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and, using a metal profile (thick sponge rubber is inserted into it), pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.
Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).
I made a hole for the outlet pipe.
I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.
The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.
Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:
Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.
The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.
To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. More thick cable(for example KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.
The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.
To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.
In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.
To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.
The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.
CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:
The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.
The main disadvantages of this design:
— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.
— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.
— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.
— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.
Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.
In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And a special big thank you to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.
I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.
When processing wooden blanks, everyone has probably encountered the fact that everything around is covered with a large amount of shavings, sawdust and wood dust. To at least partially get rid of them, various dust collectors, chip suckers, filters and other devices are used. Many power tools and machines have their own dust collectors, while others have special outlets for connecting a vacuum cleaner.
In home workshops it would be better to use special ones. vacuum cleaner than a household one. Firstly, the engine is special. The vacuum cleaner is designed for more than long-term operation, and secondly, as a rule, it is equipped with a hose with a length of 3 m, which significantly simplifies its use with power tools. And yet, the downside of every vacuum cleaner is a small container for garbage.
How to make a cyclone filter with your own hands
Having set out to somehow simplify the work of cleaning a vacuum cleaner and reduce the cost of bags, I began to collect information on this issue. Found a description on the Internet different types simple devices in the form of intermediate dust collectors for a vacuum cleaner. Firstly, these are dust collectors in the form of a mini-cyclone. They perform their function well in collecting dust in a separate container, preventing it from getting into the vacuum cleaner, which increases the service life of the bags tens of times. The process of cleaning the dust collector from debris is also simplified. Ready-made devices They are sold through online stores, but their cost is quite high with a very simple design.
Design. I decided to make a mini-cyclone dust collector myself. The author and developer of this design is considered to be Bill Pentz from California. Having earned yourself a serious allergy to small wood dust, he subsequently devoted a lot of time and effort to the fight against both the disease itself and its causes.
The dust collector is a device, the main element of which is an inverted truncated cone inserted bottom into a dust collection container. A tube for connecting to a vacuum cleaner is inserted into the upper part of the dust collector, and on the side, tangentially, there is a tube for connecting the hose from the tool.
When a vacuum cleaner draws in air inside the device, turbulence is formed, and debris, moving along with the air, is thrown back by centrifugal forces to the inner walls of the filter, where they continue to move. But as the cone narrows, the particles collide more often, slow down and, under the influence of gravity, fall into the lower container. And the partially purified air changes direction and exits through a vertically installed pipe and enters the vacuum cleaner.
There are two mandatory requirements for this design. This is, firstly, its tightness, otherwise there will be a sharp loss of suction power and quality of air purification. And, secondly, the rigidity of the container and the cyclone body itself - otherwise it tends to flatten.
There are tables on the Internet with drawings of cyclones for different particle sizes. You can make the cyclone body yourself from galvanized steel or plastic, or you can select a ready-made container of a similar shape. For example, I have seen cyclones made on the basis of a traffic cone (necessarily hard), a plastic flower vase, a tin horn, a large tube of toner from a copy machine, etc. It all depends on what size cyclone is needed. The larger the debris particles, the larger the diameter of the tubes for the connected hoses and the more massive the cyclone itself becomes.
Bill Pentz points out some of the features of his design. So, the smaller the diameter of the cyclone, the greater the load on the vacuum cleaner. And if the garbage container is low and flat, then there is a possibility of debris being sucked out of the container and falling into the vacuum cleaner. When using a container of any shape, it should not be filled to the top with debris.
Choice of material. I decided to use it as blanks plastic pipes for external sewerage and fittings for them. Of course, it will not be possible to create a full-fledged cone from them, but I was not the first to try to use them for this purpose. The advantage of this choice is the rigidity of the parts and the tightness of their connections due to the seals. Another plus is that there are various rubber pipe inserts that allow you to easily and tightly connect the vacuum cleaner hose. In addition, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.
For mine, to collect large sawdust and shavings, I made a cyclone from a ∅160 mm pipe. I used ∅50 mm pipes as connectors for the hoses. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the eccentric adapter from a pipe ∅110 mm to ∅160 mm must be funnel-shaped. I've come across flat ones, but they won't work - nothing will work with them, and the debris will get stuck.
Do-it-yourself cyclone work progress
Operating procedure. In the plug for the ∅160 mm pipe and in the body pipe, I made holes for outlets for hoses. Next, using a heat gun, I glued a piece of ∅50 mm pipe into the plug. It should be located in the middle of the cyclone body and be a couple of centimeters below the side tube, so it is better to first glue a longer pipe into the plug and then cut it in place during assembly.
I found complaints online that the hot melt adhesive does not stick to PVC pipe, and advice to weld parts using a soldering iron and pieces of the pipe itself. I tried, but didn't do it. Firstly, the glue stuck perfectly to me, and secondly, the smell of melted plastic discouraged anyone from welding anything this way, although the connection would probably be stronger and more accurate.
The difficulty of working with hot-melt adhesive is that it does not spread, and if you lack the skills, the seam will not be very smooth. I had such a sad experience - to straighten the seam I decided to heat it with a hairdryer. I got a smooth surface of the adhesive bead, but at the same time the plastic tube itself was deformed and had to be thrown away.
The next step was to glue a spiral to the inner surface of the housing, which should direct the air flow down to the dust collector. This solution was recommended by Bill Pentz himself - according to him, this almost doubles the efficiency of the cyclone. The spiral with a height of about 20% of the gap should fit tightly to the body and make one turn with a pitch equal to the diameter of the inlet for the side pipe.
As a material for it, I used a plastic rod, which I heated with a hairdryer and bent into a spiral shape. (photo 1), and then glued it into the body (photo 2) using a heat gun. Then I glued the side tube (photo 3), the inner end of which is directed slightly downward.
Once the glue cooled and hardened, I measured and cut the vertical outlet tube so that it was 2-3 cm below the cut of the side tube, and finally assembled the entire structure.
I made a container for garbage from a hard plastic barrel, to the bottom of which I attached wheels - this turned out to be very convenient for cleaning it (photo 4). I cut a viewing window on the side of the barrel and covered it with acrylic glass on hot glue. I reinforced the connection from above with a plastic ring and bolts. Through such a porthole it is convenient to monitor the filling of the container.
I didn’t have a lid for the barrel, so I made it from a piece of countertop that had been waiting in the wings for a long time after installing a sink in the kitchen (photo 5). On the underside of the tabletop, I used a router to select a groove for the edges of the barrel and glued a window seal into it to seal the joint. (photo 6). According to the rules, the hole in the lid should be made in the center, but then I would have problems with placing the cyclone in the workshop, so I made the hole offset. The lid is attached to the barrel using latches from a long-broken vacuum cleaner. I also used a hose from it to connect the cyclone. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it is better to take hoses from vacuum cleaners. If we take, say, corrugated pipe for electrical wiring, when you turn on the vacuum cleaner, a whistling and terrible noise appears.
DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner
Connecting the cyclone to the instrument. Not all tools have an outlet for a vacuum cleaner. So I decided to make a simple, adjustable vacuum cleaner hose holder. For him, I made blanks for levers from plywood scraps (photo 7). The holder was supplemented with a sewer clamp for attaching the hose (photo 8). The stand was specially made to be large in size so that it could be secured with a clamp or held with a weight. The holder turned out to be convenient - I use it not only for the vacuum cleaner hose, but also for a portable lamp, laser level and supporting a long workpiece in a horizontal position.
After assembling the cyclone, I conducted several experiments to determine its efficiency. To do this, I sucked up a glass of fine dust, and then measured its volume that fell into the dust collector container. As a result, I was convinced that approximately 95% of all garbage ends up in the barrel, and only very fine dust, and only a small amount, gets into the vacuum cleaner bag. I am quite happy with this result - now I clean the bag 20 times less often, and only for fine dust, which is much easier. And this despite the fact that my design is far from perfect in shape and proportions, which certainly reduces efficiency.
Wiring. After checking the performance of the cyclone, I decided to make a stationary distribution of hoses throughout the workshop, since a three-meter hose is certainly not enough, and a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone is bulky and clumsy, and it is inconvenient to move them around the workshop every time.
Thanks to the fact that standard pipes were used, it was possible to install such wiring in an hour. I pushed the vacuum cleaner and cyclone into the farthest corner, and laid pipes ∅50 mm around the workshop (photo 9).
In the workshop I use a specialized BOSCH green series vacuum cleaner. After four months of using it in tandem with the cyclone, I can say that they generally cope with their task. But I would like to slightly increase the suction power (when working with a jigsaw you have to move the hose almost close to the cutting zone) and reduce the noise level. Since little shavings get into the vacuum cleaner itself, there is an idea to make a more powerful impeller and move it outside the workshop to the street.
I can also say that the suction power of the vacuum cleaner dropped a little when using it with a cyclone, but this is not very noticeable at work. There were doubts that static electricity could accumulate on the elements, since the entire structure is plastic, but practically this does not happen, although previously the hose had to be grounded when collecting fine dust.
Of course, when using professional pipelines with large outlet openings, this diameter is not enough. It is better to take ∅110 mm or more, but then both the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone must be more powerful. However, for my homework this is quite enough.
The vacuum cleaner hose was firmly secured to a small branch of the pipe ∅50 mm and inserted into the desired wiring location. The remaining wiring outputs are closed with plugs firmly placed on short bends. Moving the hose is a matter of seconds.
During operation I encountered one small problem. If a small pebble (my concrete floors have not been repaired for a long time) or another small but heavy object gets into the hose, it moves through the pipes to the vertical section in front of the cyclone and remains there. When such particles accumulate, other debris clings to them, and a clog can form. Therefore, before vertical section For wiring, I cut in a camera from a ∅110 mm pipe with an inspection window. Now all the heavy debris collects there, and by unscrewing the lid it is easy to get out. This is very convenient when fasteners or small detail. It’s simple here - I unscrew the lid, turn on the vacuum cleaner and mix everything that remains in the revision with my hand. Small particles immediately fly into the cyclone container, while large particles remain and are easily removed. Their number is usually insignificant, but recently I found a missing screwdriver bit in such garbage.
Also, the inspection hole can be used to temporarily connect a hose ∅100 mm. Just unscrew the lid and you get a finished hole ∅100 mm. Naturally, in this case it is necessary to mute all other wiring inputs. To simplify connection, you can use a flexible adapter (photo 10).
To remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner, I installed a switch next to the hose clamp (photo 11) and additional. It can be used to connect a power tool, then you will definitely not forget to turn on the vacuum cleaner before using the tool - this happens to me often.
I use all of these devices regularly. I'm pleased with the result - there is noticeably less dust in the workshop, making cleaning easier. During this time, I collected several bags of sawdust, and very little debris accumulates in the vacuum cleaner. I want to check the cyclone for collecting small garden debris and dust when cleaning a concrete floor.
I think this design is very useful and affordable to make at home.
Sergey Golovkov, Rostov region, Novocherkassk
When working in a workshop or at home grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, there is a need to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is advisable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing local constant air purification at the workplace.
At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filter units with a cyclone, which collects and sediments dust with the required efficiency.
In our case it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on the purchase of a construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.
The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter
There are several options for making a cyclone for domestic needs. To determine the most effective operating scheme for the equipment, you should know the operating principle of this filter.
Cyclone in classic version It is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for purified air.
The inlet is made so that the air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (down).
Inertial forces act on pollutant particles and carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where dust settles.
Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves towards the cone and is removed into the receiving hopper. The purified air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.
Required condition effective cleaning air is the exact calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.
Otherwise, the principle of operation is disrupted and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling normally.
In addition, it is necessary to select an engine that sucks in contaminated air, which will ensure optimal parameters equipment operation.
Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the variants of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.
The most simple circuit Such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded inlet pipe tangentially, a built-in filter from a car inside the “cyclone” body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.
The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.
In essence, we get an additional capacity for settling large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the outlet filter and will require constant cleaning.
To improve the design, we suggest adding a plastic barrel homemade cyclone made from a traffic cone. It is best to install a stationary version of equipment for removing dust from the workplace if work is carried out over several hours.
In this case, we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use a regular vacuum cleaner with adjustable suction power.
Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the rotation speed of the vacuum cleaner engine, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the filter.
In the following sections of the article we will present you with two options for a cyclone for domestic use.
Selection of equipment - what is needed for work
For the first design option for a permanent installation, you will need the following components:
- Plastic barrel;
- Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
- Traffic cone;
- Corrugated hoses, reinforced with steel wire or metallized hoses;
- Adhesive for plastic;
- Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to six times the exchange of air in the room;
- Plywood 10-12 mm thick.
The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.
To make a filter you will need to purchase:
- Ready-made plastic cyclone made in China;
- A barrel, bucket or other container for making a dust bin;
- Corrugated hoses.
A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, approximately 1500-2500 rubles, and is designed to collect medium and heavy dust. Works great with shavings and sawdust.
Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process
Our first option is a stationary design for workshops with large amounts of dust of various origins.
Assembling the filter cyclone type for vacuum cleaner - First we make the cyclone itself. We make a hole in the plastic cone for passage sewer pipe on a tangent.
- To better connect the pipe to the cone body, matte the mating surfaces with emery cloth. We glue the seams using a mounting gun.
- In the upper part of the cone we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. In this way we can achieve vortex air movement. The pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal to the size of the base of the cone.
- The prepared cyclone is secured to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
- To plastic barrel when the inlet pipe is clogged with debris, it does not deform under the influence of vacuum; inside the container we install a spacer - a frame made of plywood sheet. The external dimensions of the frame follow the internal diameter of the barrel. To strengthen the structure, we attach the construction cone to the lid of the container using metal pins.
- Next, we connect the cyclone to the corrugated hoses at the inlet and outlet. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.
The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also attached to any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the container using a metal clamping flange.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.
If finer air purification is required, the design is supplemented with a car filter in the housing at the outlet of the product.
About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English “HEPA” is translated as “High Efficiency Particulate Air” - a filter for particles contained in the air. 
Do you agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment as a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.
Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they also come in different types: battery-powered, washing, and pneumatic. As well as automobile, low-voltage industrial, backpack, gasoline, etc.
Operating principle of a cyclone vacuum cleaner
James Dyson is the first creator of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.
A little later in the 1990s, he submitted a request to manufacture cyclone devices and had already assembled his own center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the Dayson DC01, went on sale.
So, how does this cyclone-type miracle work?
It appears that the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in collecting dust.
The device has two chambers and is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that spins inside the dust collector moves upward, as if in a spiral. 
According to the law, large dust particles fall into the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. Here's how cyclone filter vacuum cleaners work.
Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features
Do not opt for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like this kind of cleaning and most likely, you will want to throw away such a device.
Don't waste your money, but take a more serious approach to buying a vacuum cleaner. You just have to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with choosing a particular vacuum cleaner.
You should choose a device that is 20-30% more powerful than a bagged vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 W. Almost all vacuum cleaner manufacturers produce models with this filter, which is good news.
Advantages of cyclone dust collectors
1. This has probably happened to everyone, when an item you accidentally needed ended up in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice objects that need to be pulled out of there as soon as possible.
This is one of the most important advantages.
2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not reduce speed and power, even when the container is clogged. Cleaning is much more enjoyable, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.
This vacuum cleaner is capable of holding much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.
3. By buying a cyclone vacuum cleaner, you are not only making a good purchase, but also saving space for storing it, since its weight is quite light. You won't have to carry heavy weights. 
4. There is no need to constantly change paper bags for the vacuum cleaner.
5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.
6. It can be washed thoroughly with water and dried.
Disadvantages of cyclone dust collectors
1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you won’t have to clean the container with a brush every day, but still, this is one of the disadvantages. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, of course it’s unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.
2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a regular one.
3. Energy consumption. It is also much higher than that of a conventional vacuum cleaner. It's a small tornado.
It's up to you to decide whether to buy this little miracle or not. In fact, all its advantages outweigh its few shortcomings. A clean house is much nicer than a half-finished tidy, wouldn’t you agree?
Personal impressions
Compared to an old vacuum cleaner, the cyclonic dust collector looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little thing is capable of something serious. Now the old vacuum cleaner can only be used for wet cleaning.
When I use it for the first time, I take out the accessories, insert a small diameter pipe, turn on the device, and what’s really surprising is that the brush cleans the carpets much better than my previous assistant.
He cleans everything. Dirt, hair from our pets. Previously, you had to make a lot of effort to cope with such “now little things”.
I have laminated flooring in my hallway and it was just as easy to clean. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, tougher than the previous one for carpets, so I coped with this task so easily. You know, the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet. 
I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary attachments; it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.
Once I knew what this little tornado could do, it was time to clean out the container. Thank God, when I started emptying the dust collector, it fell in dense, large clumps.
Since the debris was compacted by the air flow. No clouds of dust were visible, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclonic vacuum cleaner. I rinsed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!
Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo
All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. It's about about all vacuum cleaners
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are usually used on machines or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are quite expensive, since the operating principle of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that industrial devices are most often used during repairs and construction. Leave yours workplace needs to be clean.
DIY cyclone, made of transparent plastic video
Construction work is carried out after preparing it and cleaning the surface. As you understand, General cleaning impossible to do with a regular vacuum cleaner. In other words, this is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris such as sand, oil, dry mixtures, powdered abrasives and wood shavings are designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction work, then be sure to specify the types of pollution that it will encounter.
Are you planning to use a vacuum cleaner in a repair environment? Then consider the DIY cyclone vacuum cleaner option. There are many examples of how you can make this kind of vacuum cleaner.
DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner
1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner yourself, you will need a Ural PN-600 Vacuum Cleaner, a plastic bucket (even suitable for paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes need to be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets using a grinder and remove the pipe fastenings. Before doing this, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert it onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole in the middle with a drill. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. To seal it, cut out gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm.
6. Then you need to put everything together, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. You will need 20 self-tapping screws.
8. Cut a hole from the side of the bucket along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut for metal.
10. Don’t forget that you need to try on the inside too. Also leave strips on the inside for self-tapping screws.
11. Using a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and trim off the excess material with scissors. Attach the pipe to the outside of the bucket.
12. To seal everything you need to use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like “titanium” for polystyrene foam. Wrap a bandage around the pipe and soak it with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue is drying, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it, blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the process of sealing and connection with the pipe is improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. It is best to store the vacuum cleaner in a case.
During renovation and construction work, a lot of debris appears. Sawdust, shavings, scraps of materials mixed with dust must be removed regularly. Regular sweeping with a mop is excluded due to the specifics of the work, if dust and small particles can stick to the surface, for example, after priming or painting.
An ordinary vacuum cleaner will not cope with such debris or will quickly break down. Household electrical devices designed for medium short-term load.
For such cases, specialized equipment is produced. A construction vacuum cleaner can work for quite a long time without stopping, has significant power, and uses completely different filter systems than household vacuum cleaners.
When should you use a construction vacuum cleaner?
Those who are constantly faced with construction, repair and carpentry work know about the need for timely cleaning of the workplace at the end of the stage. Cleaning can be done multiple times in one day, so it’s reasonable to want to make the process easier for yourself.
Pieces of foam and plastic film, scraps of gypsum board, chipped plaster, dust from cutting aerated concrete - all this debris settles not only on horizontal surfaces, but is also electrified and attached to vertical walls.
Cleaning with a mop and dustpan is not always appropriate due to large areas, and washing will only turn dry dirt into wet slurry, especially in unfinished rooms.
Due to the small size of the dust container, a regular household appliance will quickly become clogged and will have to be continuously cleaned. If large particles get in, there is a high risk of breaking the equipment.
It is in such conditions the best solution will use a construction vacuum cleaner.
Pros and cons of a construction vacuum cleaner
Greater power allows professional equipment work without interruption for a long time, and the long hose provides access to remote areas without the need to carry the vacuum cleaner or interrupt work.
But it also has disadvantages:
- High price. If periodic or one-time work is required, purchasing a new expensive tool is not practical.
- Big sizes and weight.
Some craftsmen have come up with a way out of the situation in the form of an additional option to the existing technology. At fairly low costs, you can assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. This design will increase the capabilities of an existing conventional household vacuum cleaner.
Making a cyclone with your own hands
There is a huge selection of instructions on the Internet. self-production cyclone filter, including attached drawings and photographs. But they are united by a standard set of components.
So, what do we need:
Assembly instructions.
The main indicator that a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is assembled correctly with your own hands will be debris collecting at the bottom or settling on the walls of the container, while the suction will be fast and high-quality. Do not forget to check the tightness of the structure.
The history of the cyclone filter
The creator of cyclone filter technology is James Dyson. It was he who first made a filter with operation based on the action of centrifugal force. Why did this device become so popular and in demand that the inventor filed a patent for it?
The filter consists of two chambers. Under the influence of centrifugal force inside the unit, the debris begins to swirl into the funnel. Large trash at the same time, it settles in the first chamber, the outer one, and dust and light debris collects on the inside. This way, clean air comes out through the top hole.
The main advantages of the cyclone filter:
- no need for dust collection bags and their constant replacement;
- compact filter sizes;
- quiet operation;
- An easy-to-remove lid allows you to regularly check the level of contamination and promptly dispose of garbage;
- speed and efficiency of work.
A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter can be used both at home and for professional purposes.
