What to plant on peat soils. Peat for seedlings

Peat is a mixture of semi-decomposed plant remains under conditions of excess moisture. It is one of the most popular organic fertilizers, especially among beginning gardeners.

They try to purchase as much of it as possible and immediately apply it to the soil or use it for growing seedlings. But they often fail, because... plants fertilized with peat alone do not grow well enough, and seedlings grown in pots filled with peat alone often die for some reason. To avoid these failures, you need to know what type of peat can be used, where and how.

As you know, there are different types of peat - highland, lowland and transitional. You should definitely be interested in this when purchasing it. They are easy to distinguish from each other, because... they have completely different colors.

• High peat forms on nutrient-poor elevated terrain. It is light in color, with a high amount of organic matter, very acidic (pH 2.5–4.5), difficult to decompose, very moisture-intensive, with low ash content (up to 5%), with a very low nitrogen content (half that of in lowland peat) and other nutrients.
• Lowland peat, as a rule, dark in color (brown and even black-brown). It has a significantly higher degree of decomposition of organic matter and ash content, its acidity is often close to neutral.
• Transitional peat in its properties it occupies an intermediate position.

Lowland peat can be used to add to the soil without composting. But before adding it to the soil, it is well crushed and “weathered” in heaps for at least six months. But this is not the most the best option, since the conversion of the nitrogen contained in it into a form convenient for plants will occur slowly.

That is why the use of even lowland peat as fertilizer in pure form ineffective and sometimes harmful, since dry peat, when applied to the soil, absorbs moisture from the soil that plants need.

As can be seen from all that has been said, adding unprepared peat to the soil is of little use, because it potentially contains only nitrogen in abundance, but even in low-lying, well-decomposed peat, it is practically inaccessible to plants.

In the first years after being added to the soil, such peat only increases the absorption capacity of the soil and improves its air regime. Therefore, we must remember that if the soil in the garden is well cultivated, loose and fertile, then adding such unprepared peat to it is practically useless.

It’s another matter if there is little organic matter in the soil, especially if it is heavy, clayey, floating or, conversely, sandy or light sandy loam soil. In this case, with the help of peat, you can significantly improve the physical properties and structure of clay soil, make it more loose, water- and moisture-permeable, and in sandy soil, on the contrary, significantly increase its moisture capacity.

To increase the humus content on soddy-podzolic soil by 1%, you need to add 2-3 buckets of peat per 1 sq.m. In this case, it is better to scatter it over the surface of the soil in the fall, and in the spring, gradually mix the surface layer with peat. Since peat retains all available substances well, it can be applied to the soil even in winter directly on the snow. In addition, peat is usually relatively cheap.

Some gardeners sometimes use fresh lowland peat with the addition of garden soil to create bulk beds for growing cucumbers and zucchini, planting seedlings in holes completely filled with good humus.

By the time the plant roots grow beyond the boundaries of such a hole, the low-lying peat will have sufficiently lost its negative qualities. When constructing such beds, wood ash is added to the peat, 2 cups per bucket of peat and ordinary garden soil.

But, of course, it is much more useful to cover a pile of low-lying peat with film and keep it like that for 3-4 months, occasionally watering it with water, diluted slurry or herbal infusions. During this time, the peat will “ripen”, and it will already be “truly” useful peat.

And acidic high-moor peat in its pure form cannot be added to the soil and used for growing seedlings at all. This type of peat is mainly used for animal bedding. It needs extensive composting before being added to the soil. It is used for the preparation of peat manure, peat fecal, peat phosphorite, peat ash and other composts.

It has long been known that peat is the most important organic fertilizer for all types of plants. Without adding peat, it is almost impossible to grow a good and rich harvest, since garden soil is depleted every year.

What is the best peat for seedlings?

Peat can not only be beneficial, but also harm your favorite plants. The fact is that it has a certain acidity (it is different for each type), and each fruit or flower needs these nutrients to varying degrees.

For agricultural and garden use, the Russian manufacturer now offers a fairly wide range of peat-based fertilizers, but for seedlings it is better to use species with a neutral pH. These include the following.

Peat for seedlings Can be combined with any soil. Add it in accordance with the application table (it is usually on the packaging of the container in which you purchased the peat). Many people do not recommend using soil from their own plot, as it may have been contaminated since last year with insect larvae, late blight, and so on. To do this, scald the soil with boiling water (or a weak solution of potassium permanganate), and adding peat will completely saturate it with the necessary elements.

When transplanting seedlings into the ground, a plant grown in already familiar soil will be more resistant to diseases and will take root faster and more painlessly. At the same time, if you buy ready-made soil for seedlings (vermicompost), there is no need to additionally feed it with peat, since it is usually already saturated with it.

Lowland peat is characterized by low oxidation and a very high organic content. Such peat for seedlings is indispensable in regions where clay soils with a high acid content predominate. At the same time, lowland peat will not be destructive for temperate soils, since its pH neutrality practically does not harm plants and promotes growth well.

What you need to know when using peat for seedlings

When planting seedlings, peat is necessary, but it must be used wisely. Here are the basic rules for its use:

• If you are planting seedlings in ready-made soil, study its composition. It is quite possible that it already contains the necessary peat content. In this case, there is no need to add it.
• When purchasing pure peat, pay attention to the quality of the peat (extra inclusions, sticks or stones). If there is one, it may be better to find another manufacturer.
• If you are planting seedlings in the ground from your own plot, you can use lowland peat, which will later serve as fertilizer for the plot.

Rotten remains of flora and fauna have long been used in agriculture. Gardeners use peat as a fertilizer, knowing the values ​​and characteristics of this mineral.

How is peat formed?

In swampy areas, a lot of vegetation and living organisms die; after death, they form compressed biomass. The further process occurs under conditions of high humidity and lack of air.

Peat extraction technology

Lying on the surface, it is easily mined. They do this in two ways:

• milling;
• lump or excavator method.

Milling

This method involves layer-by-layer extraction of peat in short cycles. That is, using milling drums, the top layer with a depth of 6-20 mm is milled. As a result, peat crumbs are formed, the particle size of which is 15-25 mm. After milling, the layer is constantly turned over to dry.

When it dries, they begin to roll and stack it. Then everything is repeated, the number of repetitions reaches 10-50 times.

This extraction method has been used since 1930. The advantages of this method are that it is completely mechanized, that is, the cost of the resulting material is low. Milled peat is used in production and power plants. And in agriculture 15-25% of extracted minerals. The milling method is intensive drying and requires good weather conditions. In addition, it is more in demand, since the costs of human resources are minimal, and production takes place in large quantities.

Lump

It is mined using excavators. Development is carried out to a depth of 400-800 cm. First, peat is extracted using bucket equipment, then bricks are formed from it. They are laid out on fields to dry. Then they are stacked and taken away. Based on the location of extraction and other development costs, the cost of the mineral is determined. The weight of one piece varies from 500 to 1000 g. This extraction method is no more than 90 years old.

Transitional peat

Everyone gets it possible ways, it all depends on where it lies and which method is more profitable. Most often, this species is used for agriculture in order to increase soil fertility.

Peat as a fertilizer: pros and cons

When purchasing peat, young and inexperienced summer residents add it in unlimited quantities to their planting beds. Only a few people think about whether this is correct and whether it is harmful to cultivated plants. Peat consists of 40-60% humus, but in its pure form it is very harmful for the garden. A plus, many gardeners consider a high percentage of nitrogen content, approximately 25 kg per 1 ton.

But few people know that this nitrogen is not absorbed by plants, as it is poorly absorbed.

It is better not to fertilize the garden with pure peat; it is necessary to mix it with others. The advantage of adding peat to the soil is that it increases the breathability of the soil, making it more airy and loose. It is easier for plants to grow in such soil, but this is not enough for the full development of the root system, green mass and fruits.

High-moor peat is suitable for those plants that thrive in acidic soil. In this case, it is added during transplantation and later the soil around the plants is mulched with it.

Comparison

You can understand the value of this mineral in comparison with organic fertilizers:

• black soil;
• chicken droppings.

Humus and manure

The main difference is acidity. Peat wins here, so it is used for depleted land. But in most cases, humus is used, since it contains more nutrients necessary for plant growth.

Chernozem

Chernozem contains a large amount of humus, but it also contains more pathogenic bacteria and viruses. Therefore, the summer resident has to choose independently based on what the soil lacks. If you add peat, it must be diluted with sand and perlite and humus.

Chicken droppings

Chicken droppings benefit from the fact that they are more valuable in terms of the composition of nutrients. Some gardeners prefer to use droppings.

What is peat used for?

A novice gardener wonders about the role of peat fertilizer for the plot. The advantage of using it is that it contains a large amount of humic and amino acids, which contribute to the rapid growth of plants.

Peat is used to prepare fertile soil for planting seedlings and indoor plants.

The main purpose of using peat in agriculture is to increase soil fertility.

Advantages of using minerals on the site:

• improvement of soil structure;
• increasing productivity;
• increased moisture permeability;
• improved breathability.

How useful is fertilizer for personal plot, the summer resident will appreciate it after using it. But you should carefully study the composition of the soil, and then apply fertilizing.

Peat properties

There are many properties due to which it is widely used in agriculture, medicine, cosmetology and many other industries. The summer resident is interested in the answer to the question what properties peat has that are useful for a personal plot or cottage:

1. In combination with other organic substances, it can nourish and enrich the soil.
2. Makes the soil moisture- and breathable.
3. Increases soil acidity.
4. Removes soil from pathogenic microflora.
5. Can reduce nitrate levels.
6. Reduces the effects of pesticides.

The properties of peat differ depending on what type it belongs to. No need to add minerals to fertile soils. In this case, its properties are neutral.

Peat composition

The composition includes plant residues that have not completely decomposed. Their decomposition products and mineral particles. IN natural conditions it contains 86-95% water. Botanical composition:

• wood remains;
• tree bark and roots;
• various plant remains;
• hypnum and sphagnum moss.

The chemical composition varies depending on the type, botanical composition and degree of decomposition. That is, the percentage of micro- and macroelements in its composition depends on what type of peat is being studied and whose plant residues it is based on.

Peat acidity

This directly depends on how much calcium it contains. Due to the high degree of acidity, horse grass is practically not used for planting; it is suitable for mulching. Since its pH is 3-5. Summer residents prefer to use lowland peat, since its acidity level is 5-8. All particles in its composition are well decomposed and are suitable for feeding any crop.

The following classification is determined by the degree of acidity:

1. Strongly acidic, their ash content is 1.5-3%, lime content is 0.15-0.6%, pH 2.5-4.
2. Medium acidic, ash content 3-6%, lime content 1%, pH 3.5-4.5.
3. Slightly acidic, ash content 5-12%, lime more than 1%, pH 4.5-5.5.
4. Neutral, high ash content, neutral pH above 7%.

It is worth remembering that when it comes to composition, it is impossible to say unambiguously about all types. Therefore, general characteristics are given.

Decomposition rate

The presence of humus in it depends on how much the peat has decomposed. That is, the greater the degree of decomposition, the higher the percentage of structureless particles. This characteristic is the main one when describing qualities and useful properties.

This indicator is determined as a percentage, “by eye” or under a microscope. In the first case, only fresh peat is taken, which has its own natural humidity. Signs by which the degree of decomposition is determined:

• plastic;
• quantity and preservation of plant fragments;
• quantity and color of squeezed water.

The decomposition is divided into 3 groups:

• 30% - highly decomposed. It is pressed through the fingers, leaving individual, large fragments of plant residues in the hands. After squeezing out the water, which is either very little or not at all, it remains plastic. The water is dark Brown.
• 20% - moderately decomposed. It is difficult to press through your fingers; there is a lot of plant residue left in your hands. The water that is squeezed out is light brown or brown in color. Pressed peat springs weakly.
• Less than 20% - slightly decomposed. It's impossible to push through your fingers. Plant remains are easily distinguishable. The water is easily squeezed out, its color is yellowish or colorless. Pressed peat is springy and rough on the surface.

More detailed information is provided by the macroscopic method; it was proposed by P.D. Varlygin.

In field conditions, when it is not possible to carry out lab tests use the smear method. The disadvantage of the method for determining the degree of decomposition is that traces of slightly decomposed soil are difficult to discern. A plus is the quick determination of results.

Types of peat

According to research by the Institute for the European part Soviet Union there are 38 species. But all these types are combined into 3 types, which are divided based on the properties of the peat and the nature of the waters that feed the swamps.

1. Lowland.
2. Horse.
3. Transition.

Lowland peat

Fueled groundwater. Its pH is neutral or slightly acidic. In total, it contains 70% organic residues; in addition, it contains a large amount of minerals.

Lowland peat is often used to improve the soil composition of the soil that was used for a long time without applying any fertilizers.

High peat

Of all types, it is the most infertile, therefore it is only suitable for mulching or plants that require high soil acidity for growth and development.

Transitional peat

The middle formation is between low-lying and high-moor peat, that is, the layer is transitional. With fewer microelements and low soil acidity. The plant remains that make up this species are almost constant, differing slightly, depending on the type of peat deposits.

Neutralized peat

Subspecies of the riding species. It is used for the preparation of substrates; for this, raw materials with a low degree of decomposition are taken. In this case, limestone flour is used to neutralize acidity.

It is used to make greenhouse soil, or soil for plants grown in pots. For open ground, used when planting trees and shrubs.

Peat use

The scope of its application in agriculture is very extensive. The mineral is used in garden beds, indoors, in the garden and when growing flowers.

For the garden

Pure peat is not used to fertilize beds. Basically, it is mixed with humus and other organic substances. Moreover, it is introduced wet 50-60%. Otherwise it will be mulching.

Peat compost is common in summer cottages. In addition, summer residents call this method of application the most effective.

For the greenhouse

The ability of a mineral to absorb moisture and at the same time retain it is indispensable when arranging a greenhouse. With these properties, it maintains optimal performance for a long time temperature regime soil, in a greenhouse. In combination, the mineral is an antiseptic. Therefore, greenhouses are filled with peat to 50-90%.

For garden

For use in the garden, preliminary preparation of the mineral is required. It is recommended to keep it thoroughly fluffed for 2 weeks. If possible, sift through a sieve.

When using peat in the garden, constant watering is required. Proper Use will provide plant roots with nutrients and oxygen necessary for active plant growth.

For plants

Peat is used for many types of crops. Apply as fertilizer in spring or autumn for digging. This helps to improve the composition of the soil and increase the nutrients that the plant takes for proper development and growth.

For flowers

Lovers of growing flowers, garden and indoor, also note the positive effect of peat on plants. Using minerals as fertilizer helps plants recover faster after transplantation.

Peonies respond especially well. They grow faster, bloom better and have a very strong smell. It is used as mulch and top dressing. In the second case, it is necessary to combine with mineral fertilizers.

Application in winter

IN winter period the mineral is used for compost. During the winter it rots and turns into the most nutritious fertilizer. Applying it in winter causes early snow melting. Consequently, the soil begins to warm up earlier.

Fertilization of individual crops

The mineral is used differently for some crops; it is important to know how to fertilize correctly so as not to harm either the plant or the soil.

Potato

Growing potatoes is a labor-intensive process. To get a harvest, a summer resident makes fertile soil in the garden bed, adding sand and clay. But by themselves, these components do not perform the necessary function, so peat is added to them. This soil composition is the most suitable for the crop.

Strawberry

Applying fertilizer to strawberry beds, gardeners note the early ripening of the berries, the harvest becomes richer, and the taste of the strawberries is richer. Apply in spring or autumn, mixing with sawdust and drying well. Add it to the row spacing 30 kg per 1 m2. Or directly into each hole.

Tomatoes

For this crop, peat is used as foliar and root feeding once every 2 weeks. Or apply 4 kg per 1 m2, scattering it evenly over the bed.

For better effect, the mineral is added when planting seeds.

cucumbers

Thanks to the addition of peat to the soil, a rich crop harvest is obtained. It is important to observe the dosage and correctly produce or reduce the acidity of the soil. Maintaining the proportions will help you get the maximum possible yield from cucumber bushes.

Cabbage

For this crop, which is very picky about acidity, peat is used to lower the pH. Then the effect of its use will become noticeable almost immediately.

Fertilizing the soil with peat

To increase soil fertility, summer residents use this mineral. But many people don’t even think about the fact that it also causes harm. Therefore, before fertilizing the soil, it is necessary to determine what exactly the soil needs.

When introducing it into fertile soil, you should not expect improvements, as there will be no result. But if the soil is severely depleted, then it increases its fertility.

Peat preparation

Before use, it is necessary to properly prepare the mineral. To do this you need to fulfill simple requirements:

1. Ventilate thoroughly before use. So that the toxic substances contained in its composition evaporate.
2. The humidity of the raw materials used is not less than 50%.
3. The effects on the plant are not immediate, sometimes they are noticeable only after 2-3 years.
4. Regardless of the season, applying fertilizer is always appropriate.
5. The best way to use it is through compost.

When to deposit

There are no specific dates, it is applied at any time, in spring and autumn before plowing. During plant growth, between rows and under roots.

Dosage

There are no regulations on the use of minerals. They only note that it is necessary to apply it for several years in a row, gradually bringing the soil to the required degree of fertility.

Mulching with peat

This process also requires compliance with the rules; this leads to a positive result from the work done. Mulch during the growing season or before winter. In the summer, peat is used for this, which is applied in a layer of 1 to 2 cm. In the spring, protecting the plantings, up to 5 cm; in winter, the layer is not limited.

Soil feeding

To enrich the fertile soil layer, peat mixed with any organic additives is used. Since it alone does not provide proper enrichment with minerals. The mineral, in its pure form, is used only for mulching.

They use high-moor peat for mulch, lowland and transitional peat, to enrich the soil.

Organizing peat compost

Pure fertilizer provides few nutrients to the soil. Therefore, summer residents recommend making compost. To prepare it, you need foliage, food waste, cut weeds and other plant debris. Compost is prepared within 1-1.5 years. The degree of readiness is determined visually. The entire mass should be homogeneous and loose.

Methods

There are 2 ways to organize compost, which of them is preferred by the summer resident himself.

Local composting

A layer of peat 50-60 cm is laid out at the selected location. Then manure 70-80 cm is laid out in a continuous layer or in heaps. Moreover, the width is made 1-1.5 m less than peat, then the top is covered with a layer of peat, 50-60 cm. Covering the manure from all sides. This method is preferable in winter.

Layer-by-layer

The peat is distributed over a width of 4-5 m, the length of the area is possible, the thickness of the layer is 50 cm, then a layer of manure is laid, then peat again, and so on several times, the height of the finished compost heap is 2 m. The last layer is necessarily peat.

Peat based fertilizer

Fertilizer manufacturers create fertilizers for plants. They make it for those who cannot do it themselves compost heap. Made in the form of granules, which are added directly to the wells. And liquid fertilizer, which is absorbed much better. It is watered on plants and used as a growth stimulator for seeds.

Peat oxidate

Economical plant nutrition, which is much cheaper than imported analogues. Helps plants accumulate nutrients, improves soil structure, and prevents toxins from entering the plant.

It contains amino acids, monosaccharides, proteins, humic acids, minerals and sulfic acids. When using, be sure to dilute with water.

Peat extract

For manufacturing, a low-lying type is used; using electro-hydraulic processing, a hood is obtained. The fertilizer is very convenient to use. Contains many useful substances. Recommended for areas where there is no need to fertilize the soil.

Alternative to peat fertilizers

If it is not possible to purchase a mineral, it is replaced with organic matter with a similar nutrient composition. These include:

• manure;
• humus;
• humus;
• bird droppings;
• feces;
• sawdust, tree bark;
• green manure;
• compost pits.

The choice of alternative is up to the vegetable grower.

Manure

The best replacement for peat. Its composition is rich in minerals that plants need for growth and development. All of them are in an easily digestible form.

The only negative for the site is that you cannot use fresh manure.

Humus

Rich in nutrients that increase overall soil fertility. Injected before digging or directly into the holes.

Humus

It is used as an alternative to peat in most cases, as it is rich in useful substances that enrich the soil.

Bird droppings

IL

Rich in humus, potassium and nitrogen, sludge is used on plots to increase soil fertility.

Feces

They are not used in their pure form; special preparation of the fertilizer for their use is required. Made from a compost heap.

Sawdust, tree bark

Cheap and affordable organic fertilizer, which becomes an excellent substitute for minerals. Apply to areas only when they are rotted. Mix with other fertilizers and layer with soil.

Compost is prepared from the bark, mixed with mineral fertilizers and moistened. The fertilizer will be ready within 6 months.

Green manure

In the fall, the plot is sown with perennial or annual crops and plowed in the spring. Nutrients pass into the soil, enriching the soil.

Compost pits

A harmless organic fertilizer that significantly increases soil fertility. The disadvantage of feeding is that it takes 1 to 2 years to prepare. But do not forget that it is in this form that minerals are better absorbed by plants.

Peat as a fertilizer is indispensable on the site. But you shouldn’t add it thoughtlessly, everything is good in moderation.

The garden plot can be located on various types soil Most often they are clayey, sandy or peaty. In the first two cases, you will have to take care of artificially creating a fertile soil layer. What should those gardeners whose plot is located on peat bogs do?

Peat soils are light and loose. Such common country work as weeding, hilling, digging, etc. are carried out on peat bogs with minimum quantity effort. When weeding, pulling even a decently grown weed out of the ground will not be difficult. Cultivated plants develop very well in such soils. The land from the plot can also be used for growing seedlings.

Make the beds as usual, but take into account a number of specific features, which will be discussed below.

Water the plants on peat soils This is possible relatively infrequently, since under the dry surface layer the earth remains moist for a long time. To remove excess moisture from peat soils (for example, after rains), it is advisable to provide drainage grooves 30 cm deep around the perimeter of the site.

What vegetables, shrubs and other plants love peat soil?

Most grow well in such areas berry bushes(raspberries, blackberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, red and black currants), ornamental shrubs(thuja, barberry, heather, juniper), a wide variety of flowers (irises, phlox, dahlias, daffodils, gladioli, tulips, hosta, primroses, lilies, crocuses, petunias, asters and many others), vegetable crops(potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, Bell pepper, zucchini, cabbage, onion, beets, radishes, carrots, pumpkins) and greens (celery, parsley, watercress, mustard, arugula, lettuce).

If you add a moderate amount of sand to peat soil, it will become almost ideal for growing strawberries. The harvest of delicious berries will be great!

In this case, it is usually not necessary to apply any additional fertilizers to peat soil. The harvest will always be good and environmentally friendly.

Disadvantages of peat soils

Peat soil also has its disadvantages. As we have already written, it remains wet for a long time, but this only applies to the layer located under the surface 10 cm of crust. After watering, it dries out very quickly, so seeds sown shallow from the surface should be watered quite often before they germinate. To make the top layer of peat bogs better retain moisture, it is recommended to add sand to it.

It should also be noted that not all types fruit plants grow well in peat soils.

The main danger is fire. The fire on top is easy to put out. However, if the fire manages to spread deeper, it is almost impossible to put it out. If you are a fan of barbecue... open air, then on peat soils an area for a barbecue should be provided in advance. Someone posts it on a small concrete slab, someone fills a designated area with gravel for this.

High yields can be obtained by growing cucumbers on peat alone; To do this, it is necessary to properly produce it and apply the necessary doses of fertilizers during the growing season of plants. Of course, growing plants on pure peat is an expensive pleasure, so this article is intended primarily to learn how to determine the type of peat, how to properly produce it and fill it with fertilizers. Peat is mainly used as a component for seedling mixtures and potting soils.

Peat is formed from plants as a result of their incomplete decomposition under conditions of excess humidity and lack of air (peat formation in water bodies and swamping of land). There are high-moor, low-lying and transitional peats. High peat (moss sphagnum, fuchsum peat, cotton grass, pine-sphagnum, etc.) is the most acidic (pH salt 2.8-3.5), characterized by the lowest ash content and virtually no nutrients. Lowland peat (moss, grass, wood) has low acidity (pH salt 4.8-5.8), high ash content and increased (compared to other types of peat) content of nutrients. Transitional peat (pH salt 3.6-4.8) occupies an intermediate position in its properties.

Different peat deposits differ in physical and chemical properties. Therefore, an agrochemical analysis must be carried out for each batch of peat.

Peat contains little potassium and phosphorus and more nitrogen, but it is in the form of complex organic compounds and is inaccessible to plants. Peat is characterized by high moisture capacity and low thermal conductivity. Due to its low bulk density, high absorption capacity and good porosity, peat is widely used in greenhouse vegetable growing. One of the best substrates is light high-moor sphagnum peat with a low degree of decomposition.

There are peats with low (up to 20%), medium (20-45%) and high (more than 45%) degrees of decomposition (Table 1). The degree of decomposition of various deposits of lowland peat varies within 26-51%, high peat - within 18-46%, transitional - within 29-30%. In greenhouses, it is not recommended to use peat with a degree of decomposition of more than 40% and an ash content of more than 12-20%, containing calcium carbonates (pH salt more than 6.0) and more than 5% of gross iron, because such peat will worsen the physicochemical parameters of the root environment. Peat with a high degree of decomposition can only be used as a component of greenhouse soil, adding loosening materials (sawdust, straw, etc.) to it.

Table 1

Visual determination of the degree of peat decomposition (Efimov, Donskikh, Kuznetsova et al., 1987)

When growing cucumber on peat, the reaction of the medium should be slightly acidic (pH salt 5.0-6.0). If the peat is not limed in advance, limestone or dolomite flour and ground chalk are used to neutralize the excess acidity of the peat. Fluff lime, burnt ground lime, and dolomite flour from burnt or semi-burnt dolomites are of little use for neutralization.

Large batches of peat are limed 1.5 months before planting on special sites with a hard surface, not flooded by surface water runoff, with the substrate thoroughly mixed using concrete mixers or peat-humus mixers. Liming must be completed 20 days before planting (sowing) the cucumber in order to avoid the simultaneous application of lime and nitrogen fertilizers, as well as to determine the acidity of the peat in advance, and, if necessary, re-correct the liming. During the liming period, the peat temperature should not be lower than +15°C. With significant volumes of peat, you can first carry out a trial liming of a small amount of peat, and only then - the entire batch.

To ensure a better neutralization reaction, peat is first mixed with limestone material in a finely ground state, mixed and then poured with water. Neutralization begins within the first 30 minutes after the mixture is formed. Depending on the ambient temperature, the resulting acidity is determined 8-12 days after liming. The required amount of lime material added to the peat is presented in Tables 2 and 3:

table 2

Approximate doses of lime (CaCO 3) for peat neutralization, kg/t peat

Table 3

Approximate norms of limestone flour (at least 85% CaCO 3) for neutralizing peat, kg/t (Efimov, Donskikh, Kuznetsova et al., 1987)

In the tables, the doses of lime materials vary depending on the moisture content of the peat: the higher the humidity, the less dry matter per unit mass and, therefore, the less dose of lime. To achieve the same pH value, dolomite flour salt requires 1.5-1.6 times more than chalk or limestone flour.

When liming red high-moor (sphagnum) peat, use Table 4, which shows how much lime needs to be added to shift the pH of the salt by 0.5. For example, we have dry high-moor peat with a density of 80 g/l with an acidity pH of sol 3.5. It is necessary to reduce the acidity to pH 6.0, i.e. change the acidity by 2.5 pH units. Using the table, we find the 6th row from the top (80 g/l) and see that for such a shift in the pH of the salt, it is necessary to add 6.0 kg of lime per 1 m 3 of high-moor peat (6th column of the table).

Table 4

Norms of lime material (CaCO 3) to neutralize excess acidity of high-moor peat, kg/m 3 (according to O.B. Olsen, 1968)

On average, to neutralize 1 m 3 of high-moor sphagnum peat with a degree of decomposition of 10%, 6-8 kg of limestone flour or 4-5 kg ​​of well-ground chalk are needed. Cucumbers are grown on high peat with a degree of decomposition of no higher than 15-20%, with an ash content of 3-5%.

In addition to calcium, dolomite flour contains a significant amount of magnesium (up to 42% MgCO 3), which is an antagonist of calcium and potassium, and in increased doses will block the entry of these elements into the plant. Therefore, it is recommended to use dolomite flour together with chalk or lime for neutralization and take into account the amount of magnesium added with dolomite flour, reducing the dose of subsequently applied magnesium fertilizers by an equivalent amount.

After liming, fertilizers are added to the peat. As a rule, fertilizers are applied to peat in fractions: in the form of the main dressing before the start of the crop, and in additional fertilizing during the growing season. For high-moor peat, the doses of the main fertilizer are presented in Table 5:

Table 5

Norms for introducing high-moor peat into the main filling of mineral macro- and microfertilizers for cucumber crops, mg/l of peat (according to Nollendorf, 1979, as amended)

Macrofertilizers are applied in dry form, microfertilizers - in liquid form. Boric acid is dissolved in hot water.

Subsequently, a systematic agrochemical analysis of the peat is carried out (starting 3-4 weeks after planting the seedlings and then at least 2 times a month), bringing the nutrient content to normal with fertilizing (Table 6):

Table 6

Optimal content of basic nutrients in high-moor peat, mg/l (according to: Vendilo, Mikanaev, Petrichenko, Skarzhinsky, 1986)

Less commonly, another mode of mineral nutrition is used when growing cucumbers on high-moor peat: a partial main filling of peat is carried out and then periodically it is spilled with one of nutrient solutions(Table 7) 1-2 times every 7-10 days. Here it is also advisable to carry out an agrochemical examination of peat 1-2 times a month for the content of basic macroelements, acidity and total salt content (electrical conductivity). According to N.V. Borisov (TSHA), the following is added to the main dressing (g/m2 of bed): ammonium nitrate 40-45, potassium nitrate 150-170, simple superphosphate 100-120, magnesium sulfate 40-45, borax 13.8, copper sulfate 25, 2, iron sulfate 41.4, manganese sulfate 16.8, zinc sulfate 16.8, sodium molybdate 2.8, iron chelate 41.4. A mixture of microelements is added in liquid form, or mixed dry with river sand in a ratio of 1:10 and evenly scattered over the surface of the peat.

Table 7

Nutrient solutions for feeding cucumbers in greenhouses, mg/l of water

If, when adding dry peat, you do not have the necessary mineral salts, you can take a complex fertilizer, if necessary adding magnesium sulfate, iron sulfate, microelements, and wood ash. For example, you have chosen the main filling of high-moor peat according to Nollendorf - minimum values fertilizers before planting seedlings (see Table 5, right column). You have available a nitroammophoska containing 17% N, 17% P 2 O 5 and 17% K 2 O. Using the table for converting fertilizers into oxides and vice versa (see appendices), we draw up an auxiliary table for calculating the replacement of an equivalent amount of ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and simple superphosphate for nitroammophoska (Table 8).

Table 8

An example of replacing simple mineral fertilizers with complex ones mineral fertilizer

As we can see, to replace ammonium nitrate you will need 1382 mg of nitroammophoska per 1 liter of peat, to replace potassium sulfate - 2712 mg of nitroammophoska, and to replace simple superphosphate - 2352 mg of nitroammophoska per 1 liter of peat. Fertilizers are always replaced according to the minimum required nutrient - in this case, nitrogen (ammonium nitrate: 1382 mg), otherwise an excess amount of the minimum required nutrient will be added. The dose of applied nitroammophoska can be increased by calculating it according to the maximum permissible amount of ammonium nitrate according to Nollendorf’s recommendations (950 mg/l - see Table 5). In this case, 1923 mg of nitroammophoska will be required; in addition, you will need to add another 134 mg of K 2 O and 73 mg of P 2 O 5 (789 mg of nitroammophoska contains 134 mg of K 2 O and 430 mg - 73 mg of P 2 O 5). Add ash (depending on the origin, the ash contains 2-7% P 2 O 5 and 4-35% K 2 O). Let's say we have wood ash, containing on average 3% P 2 O 5 and 8% K 2 O. This means that we need to add 2433 mg of ash per 1 liter of peat in terms of phosphorus, or 1675 mg of ash per 1 liter of peat in terms of potassium. We add 1675 mg of ash per 1 liter, and add the missing amount of phosphorus as top dressing 2 weeks after planting the seedlings. Calculation when replacing simple fertilizers with complex ones is greatly simplified if you use complex fertilizers with the required ratio between nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

In fertilizing, in the absence of simple fertilizers for the recommended nutrient solutions, you can also use complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, in a concentration of 2-3 g/l of water. Magnesium is added to fertilizing once a month. It is advisable to combine root feeding with non-root feeding (containing, first of all, microelements). The concentration of solutions for foliar feeding should not exceed 0.25-0.3%. Let us emphasize once again that it is easier to adjust the ratio between nutrients in fertilizers with simple fertilizers compared to complex fertilizers.

Peat is actively used in greenhouses for 2-3 years. Subsequently, its physical properties deteriorate as a result of mineralization (decomposition), which leads to the need for annual addition of loosening materials: sawdust (7-10 kg/m2), sand or straw cutting (7-8 kg/m2), straw manure (10-12 kg/m2) or fresh, undecomposed peat. The mineralization of peat is significantly enhanced by steam disinfection. At constant use steam disinfection, it is necessary to add 15-20% of peat annually from its original volume. To slow down the mineralization processes, it is recommended to add pine bark crushed to a powdery state (1% of dry matter) into the peat.

As a rule, peat soils in greenhouses are used for no more than 5-6 years, then it is advisable to completely replace them. Spent peat is used as fertilizer.